Podium Wheel Bases (and Racing Wheels) discussion

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  • Kustom said:
    Received my DD2 in Aus & unpacked on Tuesday morning. Anyone else with defects in the housing?

    1) There is a plastic lip & slight bulge in the top right corner of the screen
    2) There is a ding in the front of the housing
    3) There is a defect on the carbon panel & a white mark that won't come off

    I am not sure if a new front panel can be installed (which would address 1 & 2) & right side carbon fibre plate to address item 3.

    The wheel & power supply appear to turn on without issue, no funny noises as others have mentioned, but I have not really tested the wheel yet.

    For the price, I would expect the item to be flawless on arrival.

    I have contacted support on Tuesday & awaiting response. In order to do so I had to provide a serial number from underneath, but my DD2 didn't have one. Can any one else find their serial number on theirs?
    Its under the Top carbon Fibre plate
  • Thanks, I didn't want to go pulling things apart if I didn't have to.
  • I noticed the top panel at the front is not quite sitting right as it is angled and not parallel with the top of the display housing, not sure if I can pop it off to try and reseat it or not but it is not really worth it I think.
  • Hi Paul, I didnt want to play with it either, but just popped the top panel off to check the serial.
    All I had to do is slide it back slightly and lift it up - there are two magnetic strips holding it on.

    You can probably just try sliding it into place without taking it off
  • edited May 2019
    Okay, thanks Kustom, will check it out.
  • Just wondering if anyone has discovered a fix for the excessive brake force issue in Firmware 335? It's extremely easy to lock the brakes without being anywhere near the full pedal range?  (DD1, Firmware 335, Clubsport V3 pedals - all firmware and drivers are latest versions)
  • I got Podium DD1 and I also have Porsche 918 rim.

    I do not find how to change to compatibility mode to v2.5.
    Which buttons I have to press?

    And what screws can be bolt in base in front (where the static shifter is possible to mount)?
    What diameter and how long inside (I need to mount my dash - tablet holder).

    Thanks
  • edited May 2019

    I got Podium DD1 and I also have Porsche 918 rim.

    I do not find how to change to compatibility mode to v2.5.
    Which buttons I have to press?
    Hold the top right one (with the cover arround) and press the left (or right?) button from the triangle shaped button group at the bottom center of the wheel.

    See button numbers -> here <- It's button (5) together with one of the bottom ones eather button 9 or 10. I always forget it myself and have to try and error each time.
  • edited May 2019
    Thanks. I will try today.
  • I got Podium DD1 with csw formule black wheel rim.
    In Assetto Corsa my leds will not work.
    How do i change tot de comp csw 2.5 mode?
     
  • edited May 2019
    Just wondering if anyone has discovered a fix for the excessive brake force issue in Firmware 335? It's extremely easy to lock the brakes without being anywhere near the full pedal range?  (DD1, Firmware 335, Clubsport V3 pedals - all firmware and drivers are latest versions)
    For me it just flipped the brf slider so that 100 is now max force. I previously used 40 brf so now im using 60 and its the same
  • edited May 2019

    And what screws can be bolt in base in front (where the static shifter is possible to mount)?
    What diameter and how long inside (I need to mount my dash - tablet holder).

    Thanks

    Vesna the bolt size you need is M6. I don't know the maximum length, I've been asking that too. I ended up buying a few different length bolts and through trial and error found the right length for me, which were 12mm to mount a DSD button box.

    This should of course be in the documentation, but it's not and Fanatec here won't answer the question. 

    The CSW base came with bolts in the accessory holes, the expensive DD did not which seems like an extreme cost saving measure for a premium product, though there are many cost saving aspects about the DD which is disappointing, like the poorly applied and cheap Fanatec sticker instead of printed branding, no front power button, the lack of a nice cardboard template with punched holes like the CSW came with, and the aforementioned missing accessory bolts.

    All these little things add up and the many other Fanatec products I've bought left an amazing impression because of the attention to detail and quality. I was also looking forward to reading the clever and funny welcome messages as you open the box, but they haven't bothered with that with the DD.

    I love the performance of the DD, just saying a few dollars spent on these small things would have been nice.
  • Just wondering if anyone has discovered a fix for the excessive brake force issue in Firmware 335? It's extremely easy to lock the brakes without being anywhere near the full pedal range?  (DD1, Firmware 335, Clubsport V3 pedals - all firmware and drivers are latest versions)
    For me it just flipped the brf slider so that 100 is now max force. I previously used 40 brf so now im using 60 and its the same
    I'd already set that to 100, but I 'm still not getting anywhere near the pedal range I normally get on my V3 Clubsport pedals before I hit full power on the brake force scale.
  • edited May 2019
    Just wondering if anyone has discovered a fix for the excessive brake force issue in Firmware 335? It's extremely easy to lock the brakes without being anywhere near the full pedal range?  (DD1, Firmware 335, Clubsport V3 pedals - all firmware and drivers are latest versions)
    For me it just flipped the brf slider so that 100 is now max force. I previously used 40 brf so now im using 60 and its the same
    For Me its Not the same... v3i pedals I always use brF 100 I like 1 to 1 brake input... Yes I understand that the brF setting has been inverted 100/ Hi= You Need to push more on the Brake to get 100% Brake input.... 0/Low = Brake pedal is very responsive with Minimum Brake pedal input... Problem is brF 0/Off is No longer 1 to 1 input... I tested brF 50% and that doesnt seem to Give 1 to 1 brake pedal input either... For Me brF Hi Bakes feel Lazy vs brF Lo Brakes are too Sharp and I cant find a middle ground to give 1 to 1 Brake input as I had with 334... I have reflashed My wheel back to 334 and will Skio this New 335Fw and wait for another FW unless there is performance Issue with the DD2 that i Must be on FW 335.
  • I think we're agreeing Lorell.

    What I'm saying is I used to be able to push my brake pedal a lot harder before locking up. Now I hit 100% brake force with a lot less force on the pedal.
  • edited May 2019
    I think we're agreeing Lorell.

    What I'm saying is I used to be able to push my brake pedal a lot harder before locking up. Now I hit 100% brake force with a lot less force on the pedal.
    Yes we are are saying the same thing....The brF setting has been inverted... Set brF to 100/Hi <-- this is what brF 100 reads Now and you have to push really hard to get 100% brake input. ... brF 0/ Low is just too Sensitive... its No Longer 1 to 1 with Brake Pedal input and Feels really borked.
  • I think we're agreeing Lorell.

    What I'm saying is I used to be able to push my brake pedal a lot harder before locking up. Now I hit 100% brake force with a lot less force on the pedal.
    Same here.

    The changing of the pedals once in a while was a bit less of a problem, I could at least most of the time drive normally. So tonight I will go back to the v334 firmware so I can at least drive like before. Will wait till the next firmware that fixes the brake force on the v335 firmware and try again.
  • Is the green light on the psu supposed to turn off when the wheel base is turned off or is it normal for it to stay on all the time?
  • edited May 2019
    I got a response from Fanatec regarding the brake pedal issue I have reported via email:

    They told me to set the pedals back to Auto Calibrate and only use the BRF settings of the tuning menu. I highly doubt that this will fix it, because iirc, that was the default value after the driver update and then, after noticing the issue, I activated manual mode in an attempt to fix it.

    I will try it when I get home from work. Maybe someone else can try it until then and report back if anything is changing when using Auto Calibration instead of manual with the new driver and BRF settings.

    Also, the manual (page 30) of the CSPv3 explains, how to manually calibrate the pedal on the wheel itself, without doing it in the driver utility. Maybe that's another option if using auto calibration does not fix the issue.
  • Can also look at it, if that solves it. Initially I also had it in Auto Calibration mode but there was where I first noticed how easy it was to get the pedal at 100% brake.
  • edited May 2019
    My braking force seems to be working fine with dd1, v3 pedals and the latest driver/firmware.I tried with 0 to 100 with 100 requiring the most braking force.
  • edited May 2019
    Windows 10/64bit, DD2, v3i pedals....I Use Only Auto calibration for pedals.... So Brake being over sensitive Issue will Not Fix with Auto Calibrate setting....As I noted in prior post I went back to Dr/Fw 334 and all is well and will stay there unless there is a DD wheel performance Issue or Fw Issue that demands I update to Dr/Fw 335.
  • Is the green light on the psu supposed to turn off when the wheel base is turned off or is it normal for it to stay on all the time?
    If connected to a power outlet, it will remain lit.
  • Is it Possible to add a OLED Screen Off selection??? While for Now its Really Kool and Nice to Look at because the wheel base is New... I'd rather have a setting to turn it Off to preserve it when I'm Not Showing it Off \:D/ and Don't Need to read the OLED screen Data --> This will Give the OLED Screen a Longer Life expectancy.... Although I have No Idea How Long OLED screens are supposed to last... I'm hoping 10yrs+.... I did a 9hr Racing Session the other Day!!! The DD2 is gonna get Heavy use I don't wanna burn the screen out.
  • Can confirm I too am noticing the non-linear break pedal (taking inverted brf into account)
    I calibrate my pedals manually, but it seems the last 25% of travel is accelerated. 
    If I turn on auto-calibration, my accellerator only reaches 75% and I can't seem to get it to 100%, not tried too much though, I prefer manual.

    Before, I would press really hard, set max and the same would be required to get 100% as expected.
    Now, I press really hard, set max and can still reach 100% without pressing as hard as I did to calibrate the max, its a bit weird.

    Personally can deal with it more than I could the pedals swapping mid-race though.
  • OK, so I now also tried the auto calibration method as well. As other already said, the overall Low < Max works, but the actual force required at BRF set to MAX=100 is way less force than before the update. In conclusion, the brake feels far weaker even at MAX than before the update. Driver is bugged, nothing to argue about. I have also tried the manual calibration via the wheel but got the exact same result. Fanatec needs to fix it, period.

    I am going to connect the CSPv3 via USB, until a driver is released that fixes the issue. Because via USB, the brake can be calibrated the way I had it before, far more force required to achieve 100% brake and therefore less easy to lock the wheels.
  • I also tried some more but I came to the same conclusion the v335 driver is bugged on the brake pedal. I tried to connect the v3 via USB but decided to go back to the v334 driver and connect the pedals to the base. I didn’t want to change all my pedal mappings in iRacing and other games. With the v334 driver brake pedal force is back to normal force I’m used to.
  • edited May 2019
    Can I say, that it only takes a few minutes to read from the last message, that you have last read from, the last time youve visited the thread. The answers to most question are there, even just to scan through the thread. You'll find the answer much quicker by doing that rather than waiting for answer from Dom or Tom, or someone else in the thread. Just a heads up. Fyi the bolt length question has been answered numerous times.
  • Will it be possible to have telemetry data (torque file) with the new software?
  • After not being comfortable with the flat angle of the DD series & not having an adjustable rig, I have today made at least a temporary fix out of an elderly person's rubber Threshold Ramp (from Bunnings Australia), cut with a sharp knife to the width of the DD base. Works really well. 

    (Please don't mind the zip tie cross bracing firming the NLR rig up :))
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