Podium Wheel Bases (and Racing Wheels) discussion

13468925

Comments

  • edited May 2019
    DD1 arrived today and it's everything I expected and more.

    A question. 3-4 months ago I asked here if the DD was compatible with the same front-mounted accessories as the CSW - specifically the Derek Spears button box, which I have:


    A Fanatec staffer told me it was, and that the hole positions were the same, sorry can't remember who.

    But it isn't. The holes on the DD are spaced and placed differently, so I can't mount the button box. It would be possible to mount using just the single top hole, which isn't ideal but somewhat workable- but the screws that mount the box on the CSW don't seem to screw in with the DD. They can be inserted, but turning them doesn't get them to screw in, so they're the wrong size.

    So... I guess I wait until 3rd parties come out with accessories. But in the meantime can you tell me what sort of screws are required for the DD accessory mounting holes?

    The DD manual doesn't specify screw type, or indeed mention the mounting holes at all. The CSW of course comes with screws already installed, so it's easy to use those to mount accessories.

    I'm thrilled with the DD, this is a small disappointment but I rely on that button box so it'd be great to be able to use it.

    Thanks in advance.



    edit one more, can you tell me if there's are any performance differences between operating in PC mode and cs 2.5 compatibility mode? As in, does compatibilty mode reduce effects, or fidelity or whatever? Sorry if it's been asked already, haven't seen that and I do check here several times a day last few months. 
  • edited May 2019
    Will it be possible to order additional ferrite-equipped accessory cables?  My DD2 came with 2, enough to hook up the pedals, shifter, or kill switch, but not all 3 at once.

    Also, upgraded USB cables (color-coded fabric jackets) might be a nice touch, and an opportunity for add-on sales.

    Thanks!
    It is not possible at the moment, but we have determined that the shifter and handbrake cable do not need ferrite cores.

    Kustom said:
    Does the kill switch need the ferrite-equipped accessory cable?
    It's not absolutely necessary but we recommend it.

    Good afternoon I have acquired a podium base dd1 and to turn it off I keep the button on off and the white light of the button goes off, but the screen of the dd1 and the power supply are still on. Should not everything be turned off completely?
    This could be a hardware issue, please contact our support team.

    with the supplied pedal cable , was there any update from Fanatec/Dom regarding using our own cable and adding a ferrite clip on both ends ?
    the supplied cable is way short, sorry if this has  already answered :)
    The cables we selected are at a specific length, with specific ferrite cores based on worst cast testing scenarios - so we don't recommend changing these. Longer cables act as antennas when it comes to EMI, so you would be trying this at your own risk.

    Hello I have 2 Questions...1) when using the DD2/DD1 in CSW v2.5 Compatibility mode other than the buttons working and DD wheels being Much more powerful is there a difference in FFB Feel and Fidelity vs a Game that is patched support the DD2/DD1 Natively.... 2) Also with Next DD FW is it possible to include a CSW v2 and CSW v2.5 compatibility mode so that the DD2/DD1 will work with older games like Dirt Rally Sport that are Not getting updated any more.
    There is no difference in performance or fidelity when using COMP V2.5 mode. We are not planning to add any other compatibility modes. Dirt Rally works fine already on PC in V2.5 mode.

    DD1 arrived today and it's everything I expected and more.

    A question. 3-4 months ago I asked here if the DD was compatible with the same front-mounted accessories as the CSW - specifically the Derek Spears button box, which I have:


    A Fanatec staffer told me it was, and that the hole positions were the same, sorry can't remember who.

    But it isn't. The holes on the DD are spaced and placed differently, so I can't mount the button box. It would be possible to mount using just the single top hole, which isn't ideal but somewhat workable- but the screws that mount the box on the CSW don't seem to screw in with the DD. They can be inserted, but turning them doesn't get them to screw in, so they're the wrong size.

    So... I guess I wait until 3rd parties come out with accessories. But in the meantime can you tell me what sort of screws are required for the DD accessory mounting holes?

    The DD manual doesn't specify screw type, or indeed mention the mounting holes at all. The CSW of course comes with screws already installed, so it's easy to use those to mount accessories.

    I'm thrilled with the DD, this is a small disappointment but I rely on that button box so it'd be great to be able to use it.

    Thanks in advance.
    The brackets for these button boxes were specifically shaped for the much wider ClubSport base, I guess you would need to create new brackets. The front holes for accessories on the Podium bases are M6.
  • edited May 2019
    Had the DD1 for a week now and absolutely love it (coming form a T500rs) Initially it has worked perfectly in R3E & DR2.0 and the feedback is amazing when compared to my previous set up.

    However today I have had some issues which i cannot seem to solve:

    1  BMW Rim seems to have an intermittent problem with the left shifter (down shift)  In the control panel it sometimes shows as continuously on (blue light), then after flicking through the tabs and back to the set up tab it clears (sometimes).  If this doesn't work, disconnecting the rim and reconnecting sometimes works. If not then restarting the base also sometimes works.  Has anybody any ideas on this?  Unfortunately I don't have another rim to try.

    2  Ran about 3 hrs this morning all worked perfectly. Now this afternoon when I open the controller panel to check the (above) shifter issue, I get the message " There is a problem setting up the wheel control panel. Please reconnect the device and try again".  Now I have restarted DD1, restarted PC, unplugged all connections and restarted everything, disconnected the rim etc etc. Nothing seems to work, so I am now stuck.  The wheel is recognised in game (R3E) but the shifter is stuck on so I can't drive.


    I am relatively new to PC racing, but used to finding workarounds for things and the unknown issues each time you fire up the rig are part of the deal, but not when I can no longer drive!



  • edited May 2019

     can you tell me what sort of screws are required for the DD accessory mounting holes?

    The brackets for these button boxes were specifically shaped for the much wider ClubSport base, I guess you would need to create new brackets. The front holes for accessories on the Podium bases are M6.

    Thanks Dominic.

    What's the maximum depth a screw can go in these holes please - I tested with an M6 and it went in about 4-5mm before seeming to go no further, so I don't want to risk tightening it more and damaging anything inside. Thanks as always for your excellent support.
  • hook up your pedals directly to the pc.....it sucks to have a second wire but you will never have a problem.
    But you lose brake force adjustment via the tuning menu...
    I have never had a need to adjust it but thats just me.
  • Will it be possible to order additional ferrite-equipped accessory cables?  My DD2 came with 2, enough to hook up the pedals, shifter, or kill switch, but not all 3 at once.

    Also, upgraded USB cables (color-coded fabric jackets) might be a nice touch, and an opportunity for add-on sales.

    Thanks!
    It is not possible at the moment, but we have determined that the shifter and handbrake cable do not need ferrite cores.
    Thanks!  That said, hopefully you'll keep it in mind for the future.  I'd spend a little extra to keep spares on hand.

  •  can you tell me what sort of screws are required for the DD accessory mounting holes?

    The brackets for these button boxes were specifically shaped for the much wider ClubSport base, I guess you would need to create new brackets. The front holes for accessories on the Podium bases are M6.

    Thanks Dominic.

    What's the maximum depth a screw can go in these holes please - I tested with an M6 and it went in about 4-5mm before seeming to go no further, so I don't want to risk tightening it more and damaging anything inside. Thanks as always for your excellent support.
    https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanatec-podium-direct-drive-wheel-bases-thread.358875/page-71#post-12709695
    .
  • Thanks Hristo, but those measurements are for the *mounting* holes to attach the DD to a rig, I need the info for the *accessory* bolt holes, which are different holes - being the 4 small holes on the *front* of the DD.
  • Thanks Hristo, but those measurements are for the *mounting* holes to attach the DD to a rig, I need the info for the *accessory* bolt holes, which are different holes - being the 4 small holes on the *front* of the DD.
    Sorry, my mistake.
  • I connect my V3 pedals to the base dd1 and they do not work ... Should I also connect the usb cable
  • Joaquin no it's either either the cable to the base OR usb, one or the other not both.
  • edited May 2019
    Any chance somebody from Fanatec can share that new firmware (that supposedly fixes some issues) on here?

    Happened again 4 times last night :(  Not complaining, but its happening more frequent than I first thought, now I have had time to use it for more than 1/2 hour.

    Yes, yes, I know plug them into USB but as mentioned before, but,  I like having the brake force adjustment.. my wheel vibration motors also kick into action.. and using USB is logistically more difficult, due to how / where I have my rig setup, would need to order a 3 meter usb extension cable, so its not a quick fix.  Connecting them to the base is how I have always had it and how I want to retain it for my setup.

    I contacted support and was told to try swapping cables/grounding the rig (done that already).
    It takes some time for a response, so back and forth trying to explain over days.. that its not 'interference' causing occassional hiccups, but it re-configures itself completely, until a power cycle is performed.

    Would be nice to just get a link to the download and be able to sort it myself, perhaps even provide feedback if it doesn't.

  • edited May 2019
    Any chance somebody from Fanatec can share that new firmware (that supposedly fixes some issues) on here?

    Happened again 4 times last night :(  Not complaining, but its happening more frequent than I first thought, now I have had time to use it for more than 1/2 hour.

    Yes, yes, I know plug them into USB but as mentioned before, but,  I like having the brake force adjustment.. my wheel vibration motors also kick into action.. and using USB is logistically more difficult, due to how / where I have my rig setup, would need to order a 3 meter usb extension cable, so its not a quick fix.  Connecting them to the base is how I have always had it and how I want to retain it for my setup.

    I contacted support and was told to try swapping cables/grounding the rig (done that already).
    It takes some time for a response, so back and forth trying to explain over days.. that its not 'interference' causing occassional hiccups, but it re-configures itself completely, until a power cycle is performed.

    Would be nice to just get a link to the download and be able to sort it myself, perhaps even provide feedback if it doesn't.

    I got the beta driver from support yesterday, but I don't think is ready for release yet. I noticed a new bug where the brake force settings where completely ignored. I have a very weak break since the update, also manual brake calibration does not fix the issue. It set to max in tuning menu. Brake force works fine when connected directly to my pc via USB.

    Can't say much about the pedal mapping switching mid race is fixed or not, as I only has 2h time for testing and it so far only happend like 2x in 12h of total driving time with the DD2.

    I think, the current beta version will in your case break more than it would help you. I have already reported the issue to Fanatec via Email response.

    PS: allways write down how you already tried to fix it. Support people usually go through their checklist to rule everything out. If you already answered 2/3 of their questions yourself via your initial request, you more likely to get a shortcut to your solution ;)
  • Maik Zeranski said:  <snip> Informative stuff (above)

    Thanks for the info, might have to move my PC or switch back to my CSW for a bit, got some club races/league races this week and whilst its fantastic when it works, I wouldn't want to take somebody out because it changes mid race.  Caused a bit of a pileup last night and felt bad enough :D
  • edited May 2019
    Any chance somebody from Fanatec can share that new firmware (that supposedly fixes some issues) on here?

    Happened again 4 times last night :(  Not complaining, but its happening more frequent than I first thought, now I have had time to use it for more than 1/2 hour.

    Yes, yes, I know plug them into USB but as mentioned before, but,  I like having the brake force adjustment.. my wheel vibration motors also kick into action.. and using USB is logistically more difficult, due to how / where I have my rig setup, would need to order a 3 meter usb extension cable, so its not a quick fix.  Connecting them to the base is how I have always had it and how I want to retain it for my setup.

    I contacted support and was told to try swapping cables/grounding the rig (done that already).
    It takes some time for a response, so back and forth trying to explain over days.. that its not 'interference' causing occassional hiccups, but it re-configures itself completely, until a power cycle is performed.

    Would be nice to just get a link to the download and be able to sort it myself, perhaps even provide feedback if it doesn't.

    I got the beta driver from support yesterday, but I don't think is ready for release yet. I noticed a new bug where the brake force settings where completely ignored. I have a very weak break since the update, also manual brake calibration does not fix the issue. It set to max in tuning menu. Brake force works fine when connected directly to my pc via USB.

    Can't say much about the pedal mapping switching mid race is fixed or not, as I only has 2h time for testing and it so far only happend like 2x in 12h of total driving time with the DD2.

    I think, the current beta version will in your case break more than it would help you. I have already reported the issue to Fanatec via Email response.

    PS: allways write down how you already tried to fix it. Support people usually go through their checklist to rule everything out. If you already answered 2/3 of their questions yourself via your initial request, you more likely to get a shortcut to your solution ;)
    Brake Force was reversed in the new driver, before you needed lower Brakeforce setting for maximum strenght and now you need a higher Brakeforce setting to get the same result. So when you had Brf on 30 with driver 334 you now have to set it to 70. With Brf on maximum 100 you now need a LOT of brake pressure to get 100% pedal input and with Brf 0 you only have to slightly touch the brake pedal to get 100% pedal input. This is an intended change as it was previously simply wrong in the old firmwares and was now fixed.

    Btw, the new driver is now online on the DD webshop pages in the download tabs.
  • edited May 2019
    Dominic Brennen Dirt Rally Spirt 2.0" and "Dirt Rally Sport" are 2 different games.....Yes Dirt Rally 2.0 works... But "Dirt Rally Sport" Does Not work correctly Not even on the v 2.5....It Dirt Rally Sport only support the v2 Natively...every time you play "Dirt Rally" you have to remap all the buttons, pedals and shifter...Take Note "Dirt Rally Sport" and "Dirt Rally sport 2.0" are different games... IMO Dirt Rally sport is Much Better with far better FFB and Physics.
  • edited May 2019
    Brake Force was reversed in the new driver, before you needed lower Brakeforce setting for maximum strenght and now you need a higher Brakeforce setting to get the same result. So when you had Brf on 30 with driver 334 you now have to set it to 70. With Brf on maximum 100 you now need a LOT of brake pressure to get 100% pedal input and with Brf 0 you only have to slightly touch the brake pedal to get 100% pedal input. This is an intended change as it was previously simply wrong in the old firmwares and was now fixed.

    I tried it in both directions, it got only even easier to achieve 100% brake pressure when I dialed it towards 0. It's currently at 100/max and very weak. But I will check again to make sure I don't talk nonsense when I am back at home.

  • Btw, the new driver is now online on the DD webshop pages in the download tabs.
    Awesome!  Thanks for the heads up.. I literally checked about 30 mins ago and it wasn't :)
  • edited May 2019
    Brake Force was reversed in the new driver, before you needed lower Brakeforce setting for maximum strenght and now you need a higher Brakeforce setting to get the same result. So when you had Brf on 30 with driver 334 you now have to set it to 70. With Brf on maximum 100 you now need a LOT of brake pressure to get 100% pedal input and with Brf 0 you only have to slightly touch the brake pedal to get 100% pedal input. This is an intended change as it was previously simply wrong in the old firmwares and was now fixed.

    I tried it in both directions, it got only even easier to achieve 100% brake pressure when I dialed it towards 0. It's currently at 100/max and very weak. But I will check again to make sure I don't talk nonsense when I am back at home.
    Have the same problem with the new firmware. I have no problems with that the values are switched arround. In the previous firmware v334 I used a value of 1 for BrF. But in the v335 firmware value 1 is with a little touch 100% brake. So I also modified the value to Max. setting but still it's to easy to get 100% brake. I also tried disabling auto calibration and manual calibrate but it doesn't help. Tried calibrate with multiple starting values (1, 50, 99, Max.) and then dialing it to the wished value. But in all cases to easy to brake 100% even at Max setting. Is there a way to fix this?

    Think I will connect the v3 pedals via USB and hope that will work for know. 

    Currently not had any problems with what I had previously with the changing of the pedal mappings at random. That looks solved, but we have another one back :(

    Little Update:
    Now connected the pedals directly via USB. I have my brake back and need to put much more force on the brake pedal to get 100%. But for some reason with each change the software starts initializing. Also not good but oke it works now, I can race again.

    Running on Windows 10 64 bit with the 64 bit driver.
  • Brake Force was reversed in the new driver, before you needed lower Brakeforce setting for maximum strenght and now you need a higher Brakeforce setting to get the same result. So when you had Brf on 30 with driver 334 you now have to set it to 70. With Brf on maximum 100 you now need a LOT of brake pressure to get 100% pedal input and with Brf 0 you only have to slightly touch the brake pedal to get 100% pedal input. This is an intended change as it was previously simply wrong in the old firmwares and was now fixed.

    I tried it in both directions, it got only even easier to achieve 100% brake pressure when I dialed it towards 0. It's currently at 100/max and very weak. But I will check again to make sure I don't talk nonsense when I am back at home.
    Have the same problem with the new firmware. I have no problems with that the values are switched arround. In the previous firmware v334 I used a value of 1 for BrF. But in the v335 firmware value 1 is with a little touch 100% brake. So I also modified the value to Max. setting but still it's to easy to get 100% brake. I also tried disabling auto calibration and manual calibrate but it doesn't help. Tried calibrate with multiple starting values (1, 50, 99, Max.) and then dialing it to the wished value. But in all cases to easy to brake 100% even at Max setting. Is there a way to fix this?

    Think I will connect the v3 pedals via USB and hope that will work for know. 

    Currently not had any problems with what I had previously with the changing of the pedal mappings at random. That looks solved, but we have another one back :(

    Little Update:
    Now connected the pedals directly via USB. I have my brake back and need to put much more force on the brake pedal to get 100%. But for some reason with each change the software starts initializing. Also not good but oke it works now, I can race again.

    Running on Windows 10 64 bit with the 64 bit driver.
    Thats weird as I cant reproduce this on my DD2 with UHX or Formula v2 wheel.
    Brf Max results in much pressure needed to get 100% input and Brf 0 results in almost immediate 100% input like it should so for me it works fine.
    What Wheel Base and Steering Wheel do you use?
  • edited May 2019
    Using a DD1 with Universal hub, Formula V2 or Mclaren wheel all do the same. When at max BrF setting I need to put more pressure on the pedal then when it’s a lower value. But it’s way less pressure then I was used to with the previous v334 firmware or when the pedals are connected directly via USB. In all games like iRacing, Raceroom and Forza Horizon 4 now locking the wheels way to easy when the pedals are connected to the DD1 with BRF setting at Max. With my change to connect the pedals via USB and change the BrF setting of the pedals in Windows even at 50 I need to put much more pressure on the pedal to get 100% brake. So for some reason the DD1 with firmware v335 is not registering the full brake pressure that I was used to with older firmware versions.
  • Using a DD1 with Universal hub, Formula V2 or Mclaren wheel all do the same. When at max BrF setting I need to put more pressure on the pedal then when it’s a lower value. But it’s way less pressure then I was used to with the previous v334 firmware or when the pedals are connected directly via USB. In all games like iRacing, Raceroom and Forza Horizon 4 now locking the wheels way to easy when the pedals are connected to the DD1 with BRF setting at Max. With my change to connect the pedals via USB and change the BrF setting of the pedals in Windows even at 50 I need to put much more pressure on the pedal to get 100% brake. So for some reason the DD1 with firmware v335 is not registering the full brake pressure that I was used to with older firmware versions.
    Yes that is a strange one, previously (334 driver) I was running a 50 BrF, I've needed to up it to 80BrF to achieve the same results... Can I assume you updated the bases FW as well as installing the latest 335 driver then recalibrated?
  • Is 335 the final 'release' driver? I don't want to be updating drivers every couple of weeks while everything works fine in 334, cheers. Also can you post what's changed with the new driver (apart from reversed brake settings).

    And just a friendly bump on my question about screw length for the accessory holes, thanks!
  • edited May 2019
    Yes that is a strange one, previously (334 driver) I was running a 50 BrF, I've needed to up it to 80BrF to achieve the same results... Can I assume you updated the bases FW as well as installing the latest 335 driver then recalibrated?
    I was running at 1 BrF in 334 driver. But in the 335 version, max BrF setting is not near the force that was needed when I had it at 1 in the old firmwares. Was already using the 1 BrF setting on my CSL base.

    During update did al the steps updating driver, update of base Firmware, motor firmware and the calibrations.
  • Is 335 the final 'release' driver? I don't want to be updating drivers every couple of weeks while everything works fine in 334, cheers. Also can you post what's changed with the new driver (apart from reversed brake settings).

    And just a friendly bump on my question about screw length for the accessory holes, thanks!
    There will never be a "final" release driver. Drivers and firmwares are always being improved.
    With this new Firmware for example the Pedal Issue which a lot of people reported (where two axes are flipped and one axis has 100% input) should be fixed.
    And there are some other minor fixes and improvements, some which are needed for the upcoming Software to ensure everything works together. 
  • edited May 2019
    Is anyone else getting a frozen wheel base in Xbox mode after installing v335?  I haven't done a revert test yet; that's next on my to-do list.

    I did the following in PC mode:
    1. DD2 firmware update
    2. DD2 motor firmware update
    3. motor calibration (with no rim attached)
    When starting up, the wheel wants to be calibrated:
    1. At first, I switched to Xbox mode before doing so; the wheel stopped responding to buttons (including the rear power button).  
    2. I pulled the plug, restarted, and it still wanted a calibration, which I did in PC mode.  I then put it into Xbox mode, at which point it froze again (including the rear power button).
    This is with a Formula v2 rim attached.

    Edit: Universal Hub works.  May be a Formula-specific issue?  I'll see if I can repro by swapping the rim back, before considering a revert.

    Edit 2: yep, drives fine on the UHX, but switch to the Formula v2 and it's deader than a parrot in a Python sketch.  I'll try Joseph Gossen's suggestion of unplugging the base; results to come.

    Edit 3: thanks!  Unplugging the wheel before startup fixes the issue, but it has to be done every time - the Formula v2 didn't present this issue on the previous firmware, nor does the UHX present it on the current.  I'll probably switch to the UHX exclusively for a few weeks until the next firmware and try again.

    For the support team, here are the final repro steps:
    1. Flash a DD2 with the latest firmware (base and motor)
    2. Connect the DD2 to an Xbox One
    3. Connect a Formula v2 rim
    4. Start up the DD2
    5. Place the DD2/Formula v2 in Xbox mode
      1. The wheel will not work correctly at this point
    (or alternately:)
    1. Disconnect the DD2 from the Xbox One
    2. Connect a Formula v2 rim
    3. Start up the DD2
    4. Place the DD2/Formula v2 in Xbox mode
    5. Connect the DD2 to the Xbox One
    6. Start the Xbox One
      1. The wheel should work correctly at this point
    7. Shut down the DD2
      1. Do not disconnect the DD2 from the Xbox One
    8. Shut down the Xbox One 
    9. Start up the DD2
    10. Start up the Xbox One
      1. The wheel will not work correctly at this point
    Let me know if there's additional diagnostic info I can provide.  Thanks!
  • Is anyone else getting a frozen wheel base in Xbox mode after installing v335?  I haven't done a revert test yet; that's next on my to-do list.

    I did the following in PC mode:
    1. DD2 firmware update
    2. DD2 motor firmware update
    3. motor calibration (with no rim attached)
    When starting up, the wheel wants to be calibrated:
    1. At first, I switched to Xbox mode before doing so; the wheel stopped responding to buttons (including the rear power button).  
    2. I pulled the plug, restarted, and it still wanted a calibration, which I did in PC mode.  I then put it into Xbox mode, at which point it froze again (including the rear power button).
    This is with a Formula v2 rim attached.

    Edit: Universal Hub works.  May be a Formula-specific issue?  I'll see if I can repro by swapping the rim back, before considering a revert.
    Make sure your wheel is unplugged before starting the DD and switching modes. 
  • Cheers Maurice. Yeah I understand how drivers work :) and the ongoing process, I'll be more specific for Fanatec:

    Is 335 an interim driver to temporarily address the reversed inputs issue - with another 'release' driver planned that will likely accompany the software (Control Center or whatever it's called) release?

    Thanks.
  • edited May 2019
    Windows 10/64bit, DD2, v3i pedals
    Tried 335 and will be going back to 334

    335 the brF setting is borked...at brF Lo the brakes go almost instantly to 100% No where even close to 1 to 1 movement with your Physical brake Pedal Input...Brakes lock up constantly.

    334 I always set brF to 100 and it gives pretty much a 1 to 1  pedal input to brake response.

    Yes i know and understand the the setting has been inverted now...

    brF Hi = more physical force needs to be applied to brake pedal to achieve 100% brake input.

    brF Lo = Less physical force needs to be applied to brake pedal to achieve 100% brake input.

    Problem is brF Lo is No where even close to being 1 to 1 with My Physical Brake Pedal input as it was with 334!!! --> Its too fast!!! when My foot is 75% brakes applied the Braking input is at 100% and i still have plenty pedal travel left.

    I had No issue with the 334 FW and i have rolled back to it and all is Good again... No more instant brake lock up.

    Question is there any reason I need to be on 335 right Now if i had No Inverted Brake or other issues with 334???

    Yes i know the New soft ware is coming out but will there be another FW released before it launches???


  • edited May 2019
    Received my DD2 in Aus & unpacked on Tuesday morning. Anyone else with defects in the housing?

    1) There is a plastic lip & slight bulge in the top right corner of the screen
    2) There is a ding in the front of the housing
    3) There is a defect on the carbon panel & a white mark that won't come off

    I am not sure if a new front panel can be installed (which would address 1 & 2) & right side carbon fibre plate to address item 3.

    The wheel & power supply appear to turn on without issue, no funny noises as others have mentioned, but I have not really tested the wheel yet.

    For the price, I would expect the item to be flawless on arrival.

    I have contacted support on Tuesday & awaiting response. In order to do so I had to provide a serial number from underneath, but my DD2 didn't have one. Can any one else find their serial number on theirs?
Sign In or Register to comment.