Podium Button Module Endurance Software Package v1.2 [Incl. Instructions] (Only Podium DD)

1679111216

Comments

  • There is no sw fw update from 2 to 8. there is only a Podium Hub Firmware 2 and a BME firmware 9.

  • so i did everything like in the instruction but still can't see bme.


  • edited January 11

    Did you connected the USB-C cable? If so, did you tried unplugging and re-plugging it?

  • yes i did it all, but in game i can map the keys, only led lights and telemetry don't work in game.

  • ok, I updated everything with my V2 wheel but today I have recieved my Porsche wheel with the APM and buttons etc and have assembled and it is all working but as its a new wheel do I need to flash anything ?



    669 38 8 and 1 are the current settings


    when I go to the firmware updater i get this


    Podium Hub Update Mode

    Connected to device successfully!

    Collecting device information......

    Device information is updated!


    Should I hit the firmware flash button?

  • When you get prompted to do you because you don't have the latest firmware installed, yes. Did you downloaded driver 353 from the BME software package? Everything is explained in a readme text file in that package.

    In the end you have to have base firmware 670_rev1819, motor firmware 38, Podium Hub firmware 2, BME firmware 9.

  • thanks....may give it a go but it seems to be working nicely,


    oh well....you never know unless you give it a go

  • Please update, nothing more to say. Your firmwares ate outdated and have known issues which are fixed with the new ones.

  • ok,, have done it but why the big change in how things are done ?


    anyway...........all is working and in iracing now have speeds and gears etc and ITM shows on my wheel when powered up


    One good thing I picked up is centering the wheel, always for got the buttons to press and even when I knew then it would work one time and not another,,,,open properties and clicking centre calibration is so much easier

  • is there any way to turn down the brighness of the lcds...I looked in fanalab but couldnt see it

  • No. Do you have the BME firmware v9 installed? V8 is much brighter but v9 is basically same brightness as the Formula v2 brightness.

  • edited January 15

    Has any 1 else Noticed that the Flag Lights WORK in Race Room without using Fanalab🤣 Man this PBME is Great🎊🎉🍾 I was Doing a Race Room Ranked Match and knew about a car Crash that Happened way before I got into the Corner!!! Flag Lights Working Really Helped Me avoid a Major Pile up😆 and also secured a Podium spot😁

  • 670

    38

    9

    1


    I assume "steering wheel" is BMe for firmware...anyway, made them black in fanlabs ( well the revs on top but left the rest the same )

  • please unplug your BME and update the Firmware of your Podium Hub from v1 to v2.

    but brightness was already much reduced from BME firmware v8 to v9 and if that is still too bright... then there is nothing you can do for now until a dimming feature was added sometime later as it’s indeed a feature which is being discussed (not anytime soon).

  • I've bought this wheel still waiting for delivery. What drivers will I need to run it on a csw v2.5 wheelbase or best way to set it up

    Cheers

  • The BME is not yet compatible with the CSW v2.5. A firmware update will be available in Q1 2020.

  • You mean the LEDs or the OLED display? Display can't be adjusted, but as Maurice said the LEDs are reduced in brightness in the latest firmware which was included in the package of the first post.

  • Maybe the game supports it without Fanalab since the last update?


    But yeah, since I have the Podium DD1 I achieve more Podiums than before 😜

  • Raceroom actually supports the Flagleds natively for several months already ;)

  • edited January 15

    Nice!!! My First Rim/Button Box with Flag LED's because I skipped buying the F1 wheel with flag LED's as I Race Mostly Gt3... This is very positive Proof of what can be done as more Games Natively support these features But the Future Looks even Brighter when you consider as Fanatecs PC Drivers, Wheel Firmware and Fanalab Matures that things will get even better🤣

  • In ACC they now also work natively from the game for some limited situations though. At least wheel spin and wheel lock I saw reacting, not sure about the flags.

  • the flag LEDs came on at once. play gt sport on ps4. Podium dd1 for ps4

    Fw. 346

    Is this a problem

  • Haven't seen that before, the flag LEDs are not supported by GT Sport, not sure if they did some test implementation which got triggered somehow or why they are lighting up in random colors on your picture.

    Did it happen in a specific situation you can reproduce?

    Does it happen more often or was it only once?

    Does the rest of your wheel work normally?

  • they just started on their own. has now happened the second time. I also cannot say in which situation they are going to. at least it feels like the wheel is working normally.

  • edited January 17

    So I couldn’t stand to have my new Porsche wheel on the shelf any longer and decided to throw caution to the wind and give 353 another try. Today I made the mistake of switching the base (DD1, batch 3) to csw 2.5 compatibility mode with Fanalab 1.24 running - a known issue - so I’ll share my experience the past 2 weeks in two parts: Before the csw 2.5 error and after. I exclusively play ACC.

    Before:

    • Feedback is great. I’ve kept the torque pretty low due to complaints of random ‘clunking’ with FEI and FOR/STR cranked up, but I haven’t experienced any of that at all. I used INT both on and off, interpolation 4-6, FOR at 70%, FEI 70%, SPR and DPR set to 0.
    • i did get the characteristic light ‘clunk’ whenever powering down the wheel that virtually all users have reported. It appears to be least noticeable when the wheel is centered while powering down.
    • The PBME has worked pretty much flawlessly, and I love the rim itself (leather). My times dropped compared to the smaller F1 wheel.
    • Fanatec have clearly beefed up the quick release (reduced tolerance) to minimize any flex, so you’ll definitely want to pick up some silicone grease if you want to get that thing off. Use on threads and rubber seal itself. FYI if you can’t find silicone grease, go to an auto parts store and buy light bulb grease - it’s the same stuff.


    After:

    • The first time I raced after changing to 2.5 mode (and back) with Fanalab running, it took about 20 minutes to get the first blue screen PC crash with the following error: DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL / FWFilterUsb.sys.
    • Since then, the PC crashes immediately as soon as Fanalab or Wheel Property Page properties are opened with wheel powered on.
    • Wheel and base are sometimes not detected by wheel Property Page (before entering properties dialog box). Usually resolved by restarting wheel or PC, or both.
    • If Fanalab or WPP aren’t opened, I can still race in ACC, but with issues. Wheel FFB, shifter paddles, and pedal inputs started lag spiking every minute or so, lasting about 0.5 seconds each time before inputs were again recognized. When it was the wheel FFB, it would basically go numb - no feedback - then come back.
    • The lag spiking has gotten progressively worse, to the point that inputs will go unrecognized for several seconds, occurring much more frequently - about every 5-10 seconds. Occasionally the wheel FFB will do the opposite and start turning left continuously until powered down.
    • Adjusting tuning menu settings in-game seemed to worsen these effects considerably.
    • PBME buttons sometimes worked, but usually didn’t. The screen would power on but would not display anything without Fanalab, which couldn’t run due to crashing as mentioned. I did not try it with ACC’s native telemetry active.
    • Reverting to driver 346, base fw 662, and motor fw 30 has resolved the issue so far. I am currently using the porsche wheel without PBME, which is unplugged. I am no longer using any Fanalab version. Podium paddles work fine.
    • The bug appears to be otherwise irreversible and returns after re-installing 353 and associated firmwares. I am very computer savvy and could not find a fix. I’ve deleted device manager components and all fanatec/Fanalab folders/files on the C drive after uninstalling, tried all combinations of restarts while updating, tried with pedals on usb and direct to base, changed USB ports, tried all combinations of tuning menu settings, uninstalled/reinstalled drivers with wheel powered on and off, deleted all Fanalab profiles, etc etc. I did not reinstall windows, and again I only play ACC. As a side note, the f1 wheel did work fine in 2.5 mode when my son played forza (without fanalab running).


    Hope this helps!

  • Thank you for trying and the detailed report, glad you like the general feel and you haven't had jolts. The rest sounds really weird and the lag spike part is quite unknown and sounds new to me, could you please go into detail whats happening there, not sure if I understand it 100%.

    I'll go through your explanation step by step trying if I can reproduce it here.

    The FanaLab installer has an option to delete all previous settings and make a fresh installation by that.

  • edited January 17

    Thank you. If I had time I’d make a quick video; going out of town.

    There are several fanalab and PC crash reports on page 3 of the Fanalab 1.23 beta forum. They could potentially all be related, but Georg Neugebauer’s post mentions the same error. He does not mention the lag spikes though.

    The lag spikes in-game are just like when a mouse stops responding briefly, or you’re trying to type on a low bandwidth website and your key presses aren’t recognized for a second, then all of a sudden the word you typed appears all at once. Except in my case the word you already typed never appears, but the keyboard starts working again.

    The best illustration is when shifting gears. I’ll know for a fact I upshifted (or downshifted), but it didn’t change gears in-game. I have to keep pressing and eventually it will register. Same thing with brake, clutch, throttle, etc. When the wheel does it, I can turn it freely with no resistance or force feedback, like the power is off, then after a moment it comes back.

  • Multiple races and practices over this time period without any problems.

This discussion has been closed.