Maurice, I noticed that many of the files in both the DD1 and the DD2 profiles have the same iRacing in-game settings. However some of them are properly multiplied/divided like you said for us to do before you made the DD1 profiles. Are they all supposed to be calculated and you just forgot to change most of the file names?
Thanks Maurice, I'm in my second season of iRacing and have decided to dip into open wheelers. Your profiles are wonderful but I can NOT handle the F3 FFB. I'm using a DD1 in conjunction with an HP G2 and my head shakes while turning the F3 to where I can barely see with my headset on lol. Is this just how the F3 handles irl or am I doing something wrong? It just feels extremely notchy when turning
as many others have commented on this thread THANK YOU so much for your profiles, better than any i've been able to put together myself and so awesome to be able to load and play rather than spend time finessing. one question i had was on DD1 profiles for F1 2020, the LEDs set in fanalab don't seem to match the LEDs i see in game for the different 2020 cars (e.g. the red bull and mercedes both have red and blue shifter LEDs but they are different in the game). i was planning to update them but wanted to check i wasn't doing something wrong?
i've tried some of the profiles for the older cars on the game and they do seem to match correctly so wanted to confirm.
Regarding the LEDs for the Red Bull and the Merc: They both use the exact same RPM Range and LED colors in game (only red and blue LEDs).
You need to drive the cars in Grand Prix Mode because they default to green, red, blue in Hotlap/Time Trial mode for example. For Multiplayer, MyTeam and Time Trial there is a seperate profile with matching LEDs.
Just checked again this minute and in game the RB and Merc also use the exact same LED as I have set them to (only red and blue)...
also maurice on a separate topic, are you having to manually set the maximum steering angle for ACC at the moment?
not sure if i changed something or the recent ACC patches altered something but with 1070 in-game i need to manually set the value in fanalab, auto doesn't match any more.
not a big deal, just wondered if others were having the same issue.
With the RPM Raw values you can control the LEDs MUCH better than with %. So when LED1 is lighting up at 7525 RPM its now MUCH easier to just enter that value directly into FanaLab instead of calculating that to % which then might even be not as accurate and could be 5-10 RPM off or so.
With the Interval slider you can control how the LEDs behave when they reach the Flash threshold. It ranges from static up to 1000 ms. When in game the LEDs change from their RPM color pattern to all red for example but they are not flashing, then you can now set the Flash to static and then also the LEDs on the wheel wont flash anymore.
So now you can really dial in the LEDs on your wheel exactly to how they are in the game.
Of course I already updated all my profiles to support both these features 😉
Have fun and I wish everyone Merry Christmas and happy holidays!
How do i get started with the rev lights to match with the ingame revs? I want to make it with te Ferrari GTE in Rfactor2.. Can someone help me with it?
hi maurice, quick one. i notice in the acc profiles SHO is set to OFF but the rev limiter vibration is on under Vibration. does fanalab override the tuning menu SHO setting or is the intent to just have the steering wheel vibration off?
First of all his name is Maurice, and not Mauricio nor Mauritius xD
You should find a way between both FFB gain and FFB strength, lowering ingame FFB too much looses you details, lowering the FFB strength on the base too much could cause clipping.
I'm currently using Maurice's profiles for DD2 for iRacing (amazing and a lifesaver, btw, thank you!), and I was going to say that I too find it very strong, and was wondering how to best reduce it - if it would be better to do this in Fanalab and iRacing, and what settings to change.
I will try increasing the max force as Austen suggested above . I was wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions reducing the FFB, and if I need to scale down any other settings to match the reduced FFB (I am quite new to tweaking these settings so I find it really confusing haha, thank god for the profiles)!
A particular issue I have is when I crash, the wheel becomes very violent and clunks/oscillates back and forth very rapidly making clunking sounds - I'm also worried if this will damage my DD2 (I have no idea if it will or not, but it doesn't sound healthy haha)). Is there any way to reduce this on collisions specifically? For some cars, such as the MX-5s, where the FFB in the profile is more manageable for me when driving (unlike in F3 for example haha), I very much like the weight of the FFB when driving, but when colliding/contact it's way too violent for me to cope with. Is there any way to reduce the peak force on collisions or something whilst maintaining the current feel while driving?
For the stiffer cars, hopefully Austen's suggestions will solve both the forceful collisions, the heavy wheel, and the heavy oscillations!
The heavy oscillation when crashing is an iRacing exclusive thing and is because of the way iRacing has implemented the FFB. No other game suffers from this - its only iRacing and there is basically nothing you can do to get rid of it other than reducing the FFB so low that the steering becomes way too weak overall...
Btw for reducing FFB strength when its too strong for you its best to directly lower the FF setting on the DD Tuning Menu itself.
Many thanks for your reply Maurice - is this the case for heavy oscillations on the straights as well as when crashing?
Aha, I think there is only one solution for iRacing and that is for me to become a better driver and crash less haha.
Is lowering the FF setting on the DD Tuning menu the same as lowering the Overall FFB Strength individually for the profiles? I'd need to scale down the nm setting in iracing proportionally right, lets say from 25nm to 17.5 if I set Overall FFB Strength to 70%?
How do I take these profiles and use them with my csl elite f1 esport? I am just wanting to match the rpm indicator on screen with those on my wheel. I play acc and ac only.
Comments
hey,
I'm using the profile from Maurice, i followed every step also changing the .ini file.
My FFB is still really strange it's not smooth and undriveable bumpy especially when i drive trough a corner.
The wheel while driving is constantly knocking.
I tried diffrent settings but the only thing that seems to help is reducing the ffb until it's almost gone.
Do i miss anything?
i usally play Raceroom, everything is fine there with my ffb, it's strong and smooth.
WB: DD2
Wheel: Formula V2
PC Driver:381
WBF: 680
WBMF: V40
Erease Motor Calibration didn't help.
Maurice, I noticed that many of the files in both the DD1 and the DD2 profiles have the same iRacing in-game settings. However some of them are properly multiplied/divided like you said for us to do before you made the DD1 profiles. Are they all supposed to be calculated and you just forgot to change most of the file names?
No. They are ready to use as they are.
I always said you only have to change in game anything when the FF change is not enough (would exceed FF100).
Thanks Maurice, I'm in my second season of iRacing and have decided to dip into open wheelers. Your profiles are wonderful but I can NOT handle the F3 FFB. I'm using a DD1 in conjunction with an HP G2 and my head shakes while turning the F3 to where I can barely see with my headset on lol. Is this just how the F3 handles irl or am I doing something wrong? It just feels extremely notchy when turning
Solved, Sebring just has garbage surface lol
hi maurice
as many others have commented on this thread THANK YOU so much for your profiles, better than any i've been able to put together myself and so awesome to be able to load and play rather than spend time finessing. one question i had was on DD1 profiles for F1 2020, the LEDs set in fanalab don't seem to match the LEDs i see in game for the different 2020 cars (e.g. the red bull and mercedes both have red and blue shifter LEDs but they are different in the game). i was planning to update them but wanted to check i wasn't doing something wrong?
i've tried some of the profiles for the older cars on the game and they do seem to match correctly so wanted to confirm.
thanks
Hi Simon!
Thank you very much for the kind words :)
Regarding the LEDs for the Red Bull and the Merc: They both use the exact same RPM Range and LED colors in game (only red and blue LEDs).
You need to drive the cars in Grand Prix Mode because they default to green, red, blue in Hotlap/Time Trial mode for example. For Multiplayer, MyTeam and Time Trial there is a seperate profile with matching LEDs.
Just checked again this minute and in game the RB and Merc also use the exact same LED as I have set them to (only red and blue)...
ah thanks maurice, i was in time trial mode so that was the issue. thanks again!
also maurice on a separate topic, are you having to manually set the maximum steering angle for ACC at the moment?
not sure if i changed something or the recent ACC patches altered something but with 1070 in-game i need to manually set the value in fanalab, auto doesn't match any more.
not a big deal, just wondered if others were having the same issue.
With the release of FanaLab 1.54.2 (link https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/21997/fanalab-1-54-2-download-post-your-feedback-here) two great new features were newly implemented: RPM Raw values instead of % and the Interval Slider.
With the RPM Raw values you can control the LEDs MUCH better than with %. So when LED1 is lighting up at 7525 RPM its now MUCH easier to just enter that value directly into FanaLab instead of calculating that to % which then might even be not as accurate and could be 5-10 RPM off or so.
With the Interval slider you can control how the LEDs behave when they reach the Flash threshold. It ranges from static up to 1000 ms. When in game the LEDs change from their RPM color pattern to all red for example but they are not flashing, then you can now set the Flash to static and then also the LEDs on the wheel wont flash anymore.
So now you can really dial in the LEDs on your wheel exactly to how they are in the game.
Of course I already updated all my profiles to support both these features 😉
Have fun and I wish everyone Merry Christmas and happy holidays!
Maurice your work is always appreciated!
I have a question regarding this change, did I do it right?
Thanks for all your work Maurice, you do the community a great service
How do i get started with the rev lights to match with the ingame revs? I want to make it with te Ferrari GTE in Rfactor2.. Can someone help me with it?
You’ll have to set it manually for each car.
hi maurice, quick one. i notice in the acc profiles SHO is set to OFF but the rev limiter vibration is on under Vibration. does fanalab override the tuning menu SHO setting or is the intent to just have the steering wheel vibration off?
Not Maurice but since not all wheels has a vibrate motor, that’s probably why SHO was set to OFF. I set mine to 100. No wheel vibration if SHO is off.
Yes, when you use a Ferrari EVO you will get olso that option and you can edit the new line
Really need PC2 profiles, willing to pay for them.
hello everyone a question to mauricio or someone who knows.
I currently use the Mauritius profiles, but the steering wheel feels too hard on some cars, and on very long races it is very tiring.
In case you want less force, where would it be better to play to lower it, in (FF) in fanalab?, or in the game iracing?, or where?.
thank!!!!
First of all his name is Maurice, and not Mauricio nor Mauritius xD
You should find a way between both FFB gain and FFB strength, lowering ingame FFB too much looses you details, lowering the FFB strength on the base too much could cause clipping.
sorry im using traductor sorry :(
for iRacing, I kept everything the same and just add more to the max force to lighten the wheel a bit. I also use my own calculation 🥸
Hi Everyone,
I'm currently using Maurice's profiles for DD2 for iRacing (amazing and a lifesaver, btw, thank you!), and I was going to say that I too find it very strong, and was wondering how to best reduce it - if it would be better to do this in Fanalab and iRacing, and what settings to change.
I will try increasing the max force as Austen suggested above . I was wondering if anyone else had any other suggestions reducing the FFB, and if I need to scale down any other settings to match the reduced FFB (I am quite new to tweaking these settings so I find it really confusing haha, thank god for the profiles)!
A particular issue I have is when I crash, the wheel becomes very violent and clunks/oscillates back and forth very rapidly making clunking sounds - I'm also worried if this will damage my DD2 (I have no idea if it will or not, but it doesn't sound healthy haha)). Is there any way to reduce this on collisions specifically? For some cars, such as the MX-5s, where the FFB in the profile is more manageable for me when driving (unlike in F3 for example haha), I very much like the weight of the FFB when driving, but when colliding/contact it's way too violent for me to cope with. Is there any way to reduce the peak force on collisions or something whilst maintaining the current feel while driving?
For the stiffer cars, hopefully Austen's suggestions will solve both the forceful collisions, the heavy wheel, and the heavy oscillations!
Many thanks :)
The heavy oscillation when crashing is an iRacing exclusive thing and is because of the way iRacing has implemented the FFB. No other game suffers from this - its only iRacing and there is basically nothing you can do to get rid of it other than reducing the FFB so low that the steering becomes way too weak overall...
Btw for reducing FFB strength when its too strong for you its best to directly lower the FF setting on the DD Tuning Menu itself.
Many thanks for your reply Maurice - is this the case for heavy oscillations on the straights as well as when crashing?
Aha, I think there is only one solution for iRacing and that is for me to become a better driver and crash less haha.
Is lowering the FF setting on the DD Tuning menu the same as lowering the Overall FFB Strength individually for the profiles? I'd need to scale down the nm setting in iracing proportionally right, lets say from 25nm to 17.5 if I set Overall FFB Strength to 70%?
How do I take these profiles and use them with my csl elite f1 esport? I am just wanting to match the rpm indicator on screen with those on my wheel. I play acc and ac only.
Nevermind....I have decided to transfer the numbers over to a default setup I have and then save as the car name.
Load the profile with only LED checked. Then save the same profile with LED checked. That should work.
How do I open these files? Fanalab does not seem to recognize them and I can't open them myself... Thanks