after working fine for a few weeks the Fault returned on mine sadly. Sent in for RMA Replacement this week.
Very annoying. as Shipping was very expensive from South Africa to Germany... plus customs charges on returned item I will probably be paying half the cost of the original wheel just for an RMA.
I just hope it doesn't happen again with the new one on return! its certainly not a super widespread issue otherwise the forum would be alive with reports of it, but def not 'unknown'
I'm having a similar issue. I received my (brand new) DD1 Podium Formula package on January 13th. Everything worked fine for two days. Then suddenly the formula rim would no longer be detected. I've been in touch with Fanatec and still waiting for a response after they said to re-install the drivers (which I have done several times, unplugged everything and rebooted dozens of times, tried older drivers, etc.).
Really frustrating that such a premium product only worked for two days. I had seen others post with issues but I was hoping they were specific to early batches and had been resolved by now.
I should have found a solution.In the same webpage of video that is the problem I have , there’s a photo , I have unscrew partially the screws that u can see in the photo under the the red circle rotate the metal circle and pin for 1° Counterclockwise screwed it all up again (pay attention to maintain the new position of metal circle) for now work again :O I should test this solution for a while… I recommend the screws must be tightened by hand without too much force as soon as you feel resistance given another 90 degrees and stop.
the problem it’s the contact in the qr of the base with qr of the wheel . With my dd1 no problems at all but with csl same wheel got this problem . I think it’s small industrial error that produce this issue.
Just for logging purposes, I have the same issue from day1. Buttons on P1 rim will start behaving strange (stop working for 10-20seconds) after some minutes of use (usually 40-50). Steering,pedals,ffb works ok during the fault.
Support knows it from Dec 12 and offered RMA for wheelbase/wheel. I will send it in if I see here that a replacement will solve the issue. Daniel, Dean please report back if you can :)
What I do now is reset the wheel (power of/on) just before my race and I can get through it without any issues.
Hardware:
CSL Elite PS4, P1 rim
Software:
irrelevant (Pcars2, iRacing)
Drivers:
every possible driver, every possible combination, with/without fanalabs
I sent Rim in for RMA... they said they couldn't reproduce the fault on their side with only the rim, and wanted the wheelbase back for testing just in Case.
However as I live in South Africa and it cost me 150euro just to send them the rim, and I explained that I have been using the Podium base literally faultlessly for months with other rims that dont crash out, ive even done 12hr enduros perfectly fine with the BMW rim, so dont agree with them that it might be the base. After asking nicely, support agreed to send me a new F1 Clubsport rim anyway. It has been shipped and is due to arrive on Friday.
I really hope it fixes the issue otherwise they will have to have the wheelbase back also, but that means major shipping costs and huge downtime, which means ill be selling it all off instead and buying something else in the meantime (which would be a shame as I actually love this Podium base). FYI - I shipped the F1 rim back first week in January, and its now going to be end of Feb before i get it back. I had massive headaches with the package not being accepted due to customs information for several weeks and Im not doing that with the wheelbase.
The guy I have been dealing with in support has been very helpful and gets back to me pretty quickly (Fareed) - The webshop on the other hand are complete useless and take a minimum of 4 days just to reply to a simple email.
I already have RMA d the f1 wheelrim V2 for inspection.
Like in your case they also couldn't reproduce the issue and asked me to return the DD1 wheelbase for further inspection. They stated that it could be the combination, wheelbase with wheelrim.
With the BMW wheelrim attached, or other rims i don't have this issue and everything is working fine. So for me its not logical to send the wheelbase in for further investigation. Also for me its very difficult to send it in.
So i also asked them friendly to send me a new f1wheelrim but they wouldn't. The guy from the customer support Sanel Polyak didn't want me to send a new wheelrim and persist me to send the base back.
In total depress i contacted the CEO mister Jackermeijer to solve this problem because of not getting a logical solution with mr Polyak. Than after I found a forum section where some guys stated it could be a problem with the APM. Asked them kindly to renew the APM and send it back to me.
Conclusion:
Got the Wheelrim back with a newly installed APM.
After testing like for two weeks now i still got the same issue, randomly disconnects, shifters and knobs suddenly not working.
Daniel,
I am very eager to know if a new wheelrim fixed your problem, please let me know!
Thats a shame it didnt fix the issue, I also saw a link to the APM module and it being a potential cause for the fault. Are you sure they replaced yours and didnt just send it back? I dont think there is a serial number or anything on the APM to even check.
My replacement rim is now on its way back with UPS - ETA is still Friday, I will obviously be able to check its been replaced by looking at the serial number - thankfully I took photos of the old rim before i shipped it back to them. Im just hoping it fixes the issue.
I have tried a friends clubsport rim on my base and it works completely fine - but without APM, so it would be really strange for the base to have an issue which only happens on the F1 edition rim and nothing else.
I will of course report back when I have the rim back and have had time to properly test. Sometimes I could manage a week or so without the issue happening anyway, other times the wheel crash would occur straight away. The problem is that you cant trust it for an official race.
Sorry guys, I have not forgotten this. Frustratingly the wheel was held up in customs for a day and didn’t arrive until the Monday, unfortunately I was also flying out on vacation Monday night also so it’s still in the box at home. If it arrived on the Friday I was going to use it all weekend to test.
I’m back on 8th March and will test it straight away and report back. Really hope it’s the end of the problems. I honestly think it should be, as every other wheel I’ve tried works flawlessly, so can’t see how the base can be at fault.
sorry for the delay, just not had enough time to test it.
ok.... they sent a brand new rim, new serial number etc etc.
I plugged it in and 10mins later in assetto corsa exactly the same freeze, so I assume its the same, but then i also had some strange glitches with my pedals at the same time (heusinkvelds) which ive never had before.. anyway it was late and i couldn't be bothered to play with it.
This afternoon i sit down properly and do an hours practice without a single issue, just going around trying to make it freeze but no luck. Switch to iRacing also fine,, think it ok then after about two hours I finally get a freeze. However this time I then notice in iracing that the rev led's are flickering whilst driving, so i turn off the LED's in fanalab, and they still work in game just without speed. looks like in the new iracing update they now have native LED functions without fanalab. LED's much smoother now - i think wheel was getting two commands for the LEDs - one from fanalab and one from iracing... So i thought i would try again and see if it freezes with fanalab LED's off.. another 40mins and no freezes. Im now getting bored waiting for it to freeze.
So at this point I would say no its not fixed as its still happened two times, but its very infrequent (my old wheel towards the end would only last a maximum of 5mins) - So I want to do more testing and try and pinpoint when it happens, and what makes it worse, also the LED's on and off and if it makes a difference. I wonder if this wheel is freezing as its receiving so much more data for all the functions compared to the BMW and f1 v1 rims ive tried with no issues. Its very difficult though as i only race in VR, so I only know when its frozen when i reach for a gearshift and it doesn't work, so I cant tell exactly when it happens. Also if its only freezing after two hours of driving you can only test one thing at a time.
After some more tests over the weekend, if I cant find anything I will ask fanatec if they have any idea what component on the wheelbase would be at fault. For example if its the quick release etc. If So would they ship me just his one component to test instead of returning the whole base - as it will cost me 300 euro plus just to ship this wheelbase back to them, along with all the lost time.
Okay strange that a new wheelrim didn't solved the problem. I still do not think the dd1 base is the issue. Because with the BMW wheelrim attached we both don't have any problems.
I have a feeling the magnetic side off the apm is interfering somehow
So maybe we need to replace the apm with stock shifters and test again.
i dont think its the magnets tbh. I have magnets on my BMW rim too. Its possibly could be the APM module, but again there are allot of them out there now and this is not a well known problem. - If its a hardware fault with the base, I can only think of the Quick release possibly? maybe the pins are not making perfect contact? - I removed my quick release, disconnected the plugs and reinstalled it. - but this did not make a difference.
I see random wheel crashes has been added as a known fault in latest beta drivers and they are investigating, asking for anyone to come forward with detailed information (which I have).
I have played allot more today, also installed 356 drivers (was on 353 before)
Played for about 3 hrs before finally having a freeze. Its very hard for me to diagnose at this point, as it takes so long to happen. I completed 4 races in ACC without an issue, then finally a freeze the same as Ive had in AC and iRacing.
Ive tried disabling the LEDS and screen, but still eventually the wheel buttons stopped working even without any of the LED's or screen being used.
As always, just popping off the wheel and pushing it back on brings back full functionality - but you cant exactly do this in the race, especially in VR.
A little difference here is, I don't need to take the wheelrim off and on to make it work again. Just power down the base off and on and everything is working again.
I did several firmware downgrading tests, didn't helped either.
What stands out is that I cannot downgrade the steering wheel firmware, it's stuck on 28.
Only can downgrade wheelbase and motor firmware.
They are on 670 and 38. With beta 356 driver installed.
Maybe we only need a proper wheelrim downgrade driver?
Yes that’s A good point. My original rim worked for a few months fine, might have started freezing after the 28 update.. tbh I can’t remember.
new wheel delivered was already on firmware 28. Is there anyway to downgrade the wheel?
i too can get functions back by powering off and back on again, but in AC for example if I do that I sometimes also loose ffb until I exit and restart session, i I pop the wheel off and back on I can always continue driving like nothing happened.
ill contact the guy I have been dealing with in support next week.
looking at patch notes for drivers looks like v28 on the wheel has been there since way back in 336 drivers.
beta driver 330 has a v24 firmware though. That might be worth a go. Flash it back to that. Upgrade to 356 again but don’t upgrade the wheel rim and see if it helps.
I am not sure if I am generating even more confusion. Furthermore I dont know if the case is even related (different wheel/brand) but a this video the guy explains something about the calibration of the paddle shifter potentiometers.
Was worth a try I guess, interesting that it got worse though on lower firmware. Flashing back to V28 makes it more sporadic?
My new wheel is def freezing less that the old one, It usually takes a fair amount of time before it will freeze. But obviously any chance of a freeze at all means i cant use it for a competitive race, only practice.
There must be some common component that can be replaced in the base that would fix the issue then, if its not a software issue. The fact that you don't even have to reseat the wheel, but just power cycle makes me think that surly its a software crash just with this one combo of wheel/apm.
Comments
Yeah Dean, same deal as i had, re-install would fix it for 3-4 weeks as well, then it would just start it again.
Same thing here, even tried a new rim it lasted right around 3-4 weeks then consistently would happen again.
after working fine for a few weeks the Fault returned on mine sadly. Sent in for RMA Replacement this week.
Very annoying. as Shipping was very expensive from South Africa to Germany... plus customs charges on returned item I will probably be paying half the cost of the original wheel just for an RMA.
I just hope it doesn't happen again with the new one on return! its certainly not a super widespread issue otherwise the forum would be alive with reports of it, but def not 'unknown'
Well ive gotta wonder just how many others have the same issue and just dont relise it is a fault?
I'm having a similar issue. I received my (brand new) DD1 Podium Formula package on January 13th. Everything worked fine for two days. Then suddenly the formula rim would no longer be detected. I've been in touch with Fanatec and still waiting for a response after they said to re-install the drivers (which I have done several times, unplugged everything and rebooted dozens of times, tried older drivers, etc.).
Really frustrating that such a premium product only worked for two days. I had seen others post with issues but I was hoping they were specific to early batches and had been resolved by now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWwmVLIKSXE
Couldnt agree with ya more
Anyone else with this button issue tried v352 or v356?
this is what mine does on both:
ive never even seen a Podium Hub let alone had one on my wheelbase, so why it randomly detects as that and adjusts settings at random is beyond me...
Hello I hope what happen to me can help someone !
So this is video of the problem and the photo the solution .
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/it-it/#B10Grq0zwGHykQP
I should have found a solution.In the same webpage of video that is the problem I have , there’s a photo , I have unscrew partially the screws that u can see in the photo under the the red circle rotate the metal circle and pin for 1° Counterclockwise screwed it all up again (pay attention to maintain the new position of metal circle) for now work again :O I should test this solution for a while… I recommend the screws must be tightened by hand without too much force as soon as you feel resistance given another 90 degrees and stop.
the problem it’s the contact in the qr of the base with qr of the wheel . With my dd1 no problems at all but with csl same wheel got this problem . I think it’s small industrial error that produce this issue.
Just for logging purposes, I have the same issue from day1. Buttons on P1 rim will start behaving strange (stop working for 10-20seconds) after some minutes of use (usually 40-50). Steering,pedals,ffb works ok during the fault.
Support knows it from Dec 12 and offered RMA for wheelbase/wheel. I will send it in if I see here that a replacement will solve the issue. Daniel, Dean please report back if you can :)
What I do now is reset the wheel (power of/on) just before my race and I can get through it without any issues.
Hardware:
CSL Elite PS4, P1 rim
Software:
irrelevant (Pcars2, iRacing)
Drivers:
every possible driver, every possible combination, with/without fanalabs
I sent Rim in for RMA... they said they couldn't reproduce the fault on their side with only the rim, and wanted the wheelbase back for testing just in Case.
However as I live in South Africa and it cost me 150euro just to send them the rim, and I explained that I have been using the Podium base literally faultlessly for months with other rims that dont crash out, ive even done 12hr enduros perfectly fine with the BMW rim, so dont agree with them that it might be the base. After asking nicely, support agreed to send me a new F1 Clubsport rim anyway. It has been shipped and is due to arrive on Friday.
I really hope it fixes the issue otherwise they will have to have the wheelbase back also, but that means major shipping costs and huge downtime, which means ill be selling it all off instead and buying something else in the meantime (which would be a shame as I actually love this Podium base). FYI - I shipped the F1 rim back first week in January, and its now going to be end of Feb before i get it back. I had massive headaches with the package not being accepted due to customs information for several weeks and Im not doing that with the wheelbase.
The guy I have been dealing with in support has been very helpful and gets back to me pretty quickly (Fareed) - The webshop on the other hand are complete useless and take a minimum of 4 days just to reply to a simple email.
Hi Daniel,
The same problem happend to me also.
I already have RMA d the f1 wheelrim V2 for inspection.
Like in your case they also couldn't reproduce the issue and asked me to return the DD1 wheelbase for further inspection. They stated that it could be the combination, wheelbase with wheelrim.
With the BMW wheelrim attached, or other rims i don't have this issue and everything is working fine. So for me its not logical to send the wheelbase in for further investigation. Also for me its very difficult to send it in.
So i also asked them friendly to send me a new f1wheelrim but they wouldn't. The guy from the customer support Sanel Polyak didn't want me to send a new wheelrim and persist me to send the base back.
In total depress i contacted the CEO mister Jackermeijer to solve this problem because of not getting a logical solution with mr Polyak. Than after I found a forum section where some guys stated it could be a problem with the APM. Asked them kindly to renew the APM and send it back to me.
Conclusion:
Got the Wheelrim back with a newly installed APM.
After testing like for two weeks now i still got the same issue, randomly disconnects, shifters and knobs suddenly not working.
Daniel,
I am very eager to know if a new wheelrim fixed your problem, please let me know!
Kind regards,
Sander Dignum
Hi Sander,
Thats a shame it didnt fix the issue, I also saw a link to the APM module and it being a potential cause for the fault. Are you sure they replaced yours and didnt just send it back? I dont think there is a serial number or anything on the APM to even check.
My replacement rim is now on its way back with UPS - ETA is still Friday, I will obviously be able to check its been replaced by looking at the serial number - thankfully I took photos of the old rim before i shipped it back to them. Im just hoping it fixes the issue.
I have tried a friends clubsport rim on my base and it works completely fine - but without APM, so it would be really strange for the base to have an issue which only happens on the F1 edition rim and nothing else.
I will of course report back when I have the rim back and have had time to properly test. Sometimes I could manage a week or so without the issue happening anyway, other times the wheel crash would occur straight away. The problem is that you cant trust it for an official race.
Hi Daniel,
Yes it happens randomly like you said, sometimes the whole day no problems at all, sometimes after 5 or 10 minutes multipel times.
Lost a lot of irating because of this :(
Maybe they didn't renewed the APM, because there where old fingerprints and dirt on it.
Completely same here with F1 2018 and CSL E WB: sometimes the whole day no problems at all, sometimes after 5 or 10 minutes multipel times
I think this is software problem because I don't use it for a half a year and last try it was OK.
After NY I began play a lot and even finish some races, but problem happen time to time.
For me the issue often come on after braking while accelerating when I need to shift up.
Very annoying situation. Because McLaren wheel has more weird shifting problems and only P1 work as is.
Im having the same issue DD1 on PS4 looses all buttons after about 4 laps!!! any fix Yet?
Hi Brent,
Not yet, it seems Fanatec also don't know what the problem is.
I am awaiting Daniel Haynes his comfirmation.
Since Friday he has a new f1 v2 wheel rim, hope it fixed the problem.
Sorry guys, I have not forgotten this. Frustratingly the wheel was held up in customs for a day and didn’t arrive until the Monday, unfortunately I was also flying out on vacation Monday night also so it’s still in the box at home. If it arrived on the Friday I was going to use it all weekend to test.
I’m back on 8th March and will test it straight away and report back. Really hope it’s the end of the problems. I honestly think it should be, as every other wheel I’ve tried works flawlessly, so can’t see how the base can be at fault.
Hi Daniel,
Thanks for the response!
Hope the long wait will pay out.
Daniel,
Can you already confirm if the new wheelrim fixed your problem?
Regards,
Sander
sorry for the delay, just not had enough time to test it.
ok.... they sent a brand new rim, new serial number etc etc.
I plugged it in and 10mins later in assetto corsa exactly the same freeze, so I assume its the same, but then i also had some strange glitches with my pedals at the same time (heusinkvelds) which ive never had before.. anyway it was late and i couldn't be bothered to play with it.
This afternoon i sit down properly and do an hours practice without a single issue, just going around trying to make it freeze but no luck. Switch to iRacing also fine,, think it ok then after about two hours I finally get a freeze. However this time I then notice in iracing that the rev led's are flickering whilst driving, so i turn off the LED's in fanalab, and they still work in game just without speed. looks like in the new iracing update they now have native LED functions without fanalab. LED's much smoother now - i think wheel was getting two commands for the LEDs - one from fanalab and one from iracing... So i thought i would try again and see if it freezes with fanalab LED's off.. another 40mins and no freezes. Im now getting bored waiting for it to freeze.
So at this point I would say no its not fixed as its still happened two times, but its very infrequent (my old wheel towards the end would only last a maximum of 5mins) - So I want to do more testing and try and pinpoint when it happens, and what makes it worse, also the LED's on and off and if it makes a difference. I wonder if this wheel is freezing as its receiving so much more data for all the functions compared to the BMW and f1 v1 rims ive tried with no issues. Its very difficult though as i only race in VR, so I only know when its frozen when i reach for a gearshift and it doesn't work, so I cant tell exactly when it happens. Also if its only freezing after two hours of driving you can only test one thing at a time.
After some more tests over the weekend, if I cant find anything I will ask fanatec if they have any idea what component on the wheelbase would be at fault. For example if its the quick release etc. If So would they ship me just his one component to test instead of returning the whole base - as it will cost me 300 euro plus just to ship this wheelbase back to them, along with all the lost time.
Hi Daniel,
Thanks for the detailed response.
Okay strange that a new wheelrim didn't solved the problem. I still do not think the dd1 base is the issue. Because with the BMW wheelrim attached we both don't have any problems.
I have a feeling the magnetic side off the apm is interfering somehow
So maybe we need to replace the apm with stock shifters and test again.
i dont think its the magnets tbh. I have magnets on my BMW rim too. Its possibly could be the APM module, but again there are allot of them out there now and this is not a well known problem. - If its a hardware fault with the base, I can only think of the Quick release possibly? maybe the pins are not making perfect contact? - I removed my quick release, disconnected the plugs and reinstalled it. - but this did not make a difference.
I see random wheel crashes has been added as a known fault in latest beta drivers and they are investigating, asking for anyone to come forward with detailed information (which I have).
I have played allot more today, also installed 356 drivers (was on 353 before)
Played for about 3 hrs before finally having a freeze. Its very hard for me to diagnose at this point, as it takes so long to happen. I completed 4 races in ACC without an issue, then finally a freeze the same as Ive had in AC and iRacing.
Ive tried disabling the LEDS and screen, but still eventually the wheel buttons stopped working even without any of the LED's or screen being used.
As always, just popping off the wheel and pushing it back on brings back full functionality - but you cant exactly do this in the race, especially in VR.
A little difference here is, I don't need to take the wheelrim off and on to make it work again. Just power down the base off and on and everything is working again.
I did several firmware downgrading tests, didn't helped either.
What stands out is that I cannot downgrade the steering wheel firmware, it's stuck on 28.
Only can downgrade wheelbase and motor firmware.
They are on 670 and 38. With beta 356 driver installed.
Maybe we only need a proper wheelrim downgrade driver?
Yes that’s A good point. My original rim worked for a few months fine, might have started freezing after the 28 update.. tbh I can’t remember.
new wheel delivered was already on firmware 28. Is there anyway to downgrade the wheel?
i too can get functions back by powering off and back on again, but in AC for example if I do that I sometimes also loose ffb until I exit and restart session, i I pop the wheel off and back on I can always continue driving like nothing happened.
Do you have contact with support?
Maybe can ask for lowest wheelrim firmware driver.
Yesterday I reported this thread to CEO Thomas Jackermeijer.
Hope he can pick this up with his best technician, because this is becoming more and more big problem and does not match the Fanatec branding stat.
ill contact the guy I have been dealing with in support next week.
looking at patch notes for drivers looks like v28 on the wheel has been there since way back in 336 drivers.
beta driver 330 has a v24 firmware though. That might be worth a go. Flash it back to that. Upgrade to 356 again but don’t upgrade the wheel rim and see if it helps.
I am not sure if I am generating even more confusion. Furthermore I dont know if the case is even related (different wheel/brand) but a this video the guy explains something about the calibration of the paddle shifter potentiometers.
Daniel,
I will try and report back.
Still same problem.
Rolled back to firmware 330 with v24 wheelrim firmware .
This time it already froze the second round. Never it happend that quickly. Than after 3 more times after every 5 min.
Don't know what to do anymore.
Thanks for the update Sander,
Was worth a try I guess, interesting that it got worse though on lower firmware. Flashing back to V28 makes it more sporadic?
My new wheel is def freezing less that the old one, It usually takes a fair amount of time before it will freeze. But obviously any chance of a freeze at all means i cant use it for a competitive race, only practice.
There must be some common component that can be replaced in the base that would fix the issue then, if its not a software issue. The fact that you don't even have to reseat the wheel, but just power cycle makes me think that surly its a software crash just with this one combo of wheel/apm.