I've contacted my support guy also, and also been talking with Marcel Pfister here:
his reply:
I indeed see this popping up more frequently with the Formula V2 wheel right now so we will try to work on fixing it as soon as possible. Thanks for bringing it up. Keep me updated if you notice any sign or event of what could be the reason. You are right that it sounds much like a firmware issue, did you try going back to an older version like Driver 336? You then also have to manually downgrade the firmware by opening the driver, going to the Update tab and then clicking on the Firmware Update buttons to follow the update process. You can start with downgrading the wheel Firmware for example and see if it makes a difference. Note when you downgrade the base firmware you also need to do it for the motor as both have to have firmware which is compatible to each other. If the version is different the fan might be running load and function is limited.
I have not downgraded my base that far back like you yet - not had time, did you flash the motor and base back as well when you tried yours? or just the steering wheel firmware?
It does look like this can eventually be fixed with a firmware update, and its good for us that they are getting more reports on this fault, so I wont be spending the huge amount to return by base to them at the moment (If I lived in Germany I would just return it no problem, and get a replacement - but surely they will then find out what causes it, they cant just be throwing all the DD wheelbases away every time they get one back with this fault)
Support got back to me to say that it could be a few things including the wireless system in the base or even the main PCB in the base, they would need it back to test - obviously if I returned it, they would most likely just give me a new base or replace these parts and it would be fine. Its rather a question now of if they can fix the issue also with a firmware update.
Obviously something changed, as originally the wheel worked fine from new. The only thing I can think of that I cant try is windows updates. Im now on Windows 10 1909 with all the latest updates installed. perhaps somethings changed in windows... or maybe we both just have identical hardware failures.
As this fault is now coming up more often, I would assume they will eventually find the route cause or fix with software. I have offered to trial any firmware updates they might want to try. It will cost them allot of money if they just keep replacing podium bases without finding out why its happening. Even if it is only a few cases. Marcel Pfister has confirmed that he is seeing this come up more frequently.
In the meantime as the base works perfectly with other wheels im going to wait and see. If you return your base at the moment who know how long it will take to get back! in the current situation it could be months.
I will keep you updated with anything I receive. Hopefully together we can find an answer.
Last few times the wheel freezed out while hitting a curb or wall. Also for two times now the shifters are being unregistered very randomly like clicking 10 times but only shifting 6 times and eventually running out in a big freeze.
Also the wheelbase is making weird metal on metal kinda sound while crashing, that's new also.
I have just been racing with my BMW wheel for now and not done anything else with the Formula wheel to be honest.
I have still been emailing my contact in support though who has been very helpful, and has come up with a very good and generous solution to help me with shipping etc. So I will return the base to them shortly.
As they are not working at 100% though, and it looks like it will get allot worse before it gets better (In my mind potentially they might be forced to shutdown even, but we will have to see) I have said I would rather ship the base back when I can be sure it will actually arrive and return to me in a reasonable time. For me this is not essential, ill just keep using it with my other Rim in the meantime (Which might be very welcome if I also end up in Lock down or Quarantine at some point!)
If we get any firmware updates in the next few weeks though I will still give it a go and see if it changes anything.
I have the ps4 direct drive and mine will completely stop working as I am playing iRacing happened to yesterday during the Bristol fixed race. When it quits working whatever I was doing like turning, accelerating, and or braking will stay doing that. When it does this none of buttons work like I have my discord push to talk button on my wheel will not work my push to talk for game chat will not work and my return to the pit button will not work even after turning it on and off it will not come back. I have completely unplug the power supply and restart my computer so it will recognize that the wheel is even there so I would like to know what to cause this greatly discourages me and makes me want to find a different direct drive from somewhere else.
I have for a while exact the same freezing issue with dd1 + formula v2 + apm. Tried driver from 335 up to 364 all the same. I added a m6*16mm set screw into the bolt hole in the quick release to tighten the rim and it stopped freezing. Tested several hours long this aferternoon without freezing, might be a temporary solution for some one with this issue.
hi, I have been having the same issues as well with the V2 wheel and I would really like to ask everyone on this thread if they have the advanced paddle module attached? This has been happening to me for some weeks now and I have tried what seems like hundreds of combinations of Firmware and Drivers with nothing that fixes the issue, even 336 which seems to have worked for some did not work for me!
Wheel base V2.5
PC Driver 356
WB FW 662
SW FW 28
Motor FW 18
This combination has worked best for me over the last week or so as I first thought it may be the wheel firmware but I do agree with earlier comments as to the issue being hardware related as such is why I asked if everyone is running the advanced paddle module to see if we can help narrow the list of possibilities? I find if I remove the wheel from base and then re-attach the problem will usually go away for a while! I saw before that someone suggested that it is more widespread and I think that this could be somewhat accurate as I have seen this on other threads such as reddit! Anyway if we put our heads together maybe we could get to the bottom of the issue a lot faster as I have to agree that it is extremely frustrating. ;)
I told Marcel Pfister that I 'fixed' the freezing problem with a set screw in QR, he suggested that it could be a hardware issue in my case. There for I adjusted the connector pins a tiny bit and now I don't need the extra set screw any more, the freezing never happened since then.
Tested with driver 364 only. I didn't go back to earlier drivers to see if the older drivers had a part in this issue.
Sometimes the shifters doesn't respond and then I also notice that al the buttons on the V2 don't respond. I also have had that some buttons are activated while I am not touching them. After an power cycle it is al fine for a while.
I have an Clubsport V2.5 base which didn't have any problems for 2 years and last month I bought the Formula V2 with the APM, and 2 weeks later a Podium Hub with APM. I am not 100% sure but I think the first time it happend was when I had used the Podium Hub and then switched to the V2.
I also don't recall that it ever happened with the Podium Hub with APM, but again I am not a 100% sure.
Yesterday when it happened again instead of doing a power cycle I went to the Fanatec properties and it showed an CSL Elite P1 PS4 wheel instead of the V2. And you could see that some buttons were activated without me touching them.
What is the best way to continue to help fix this annoying problem?
Should I stick with the Podium Hub with APM to rule out that it doesnt accord with this wheel, or should I switch to my old Formula Carbon without APM, or should I swap out the APM to the normal shifters on the V2?
I will check my connections in the QR but I don't think it is the problem, because after a simpel power cycle it works again without me touching the wheel. Also the fact that the software suddenly sees another type of wheel gives me an indication it is software related.
Hello Everyone, crashing the party w a new twist. I'm on the CS v2.5 on a PC and began this adventure back in 2017. I haven't had any issues til two days ago. I just downloaded the latest firmware driver 347 /wheel firm664/motor v22, and all hell has broken loose. Nothing is working properly. When I start an AC session, the wheel violently jerks left to about 10am and freezes...like it's not centered (which it is). Then I put it in first gear and the wheel starts lightly vibrating, then I hit the throttle, the wheel starts violently shaking like I'm driving over the worst rumble strips ever. It's impossible to drive - and also pulls left or right sometimes and just spins me. It seems tied to the throttle application, but I can't stop it. I have reinstalled the software about 10x on all components and no change. I have changed USB ports, etc. nope. I'm trying to downgrade to lower software (311), but it won't let me. Every time I try to install new or delete old, it tells me I have the latest software and cancels the load and the driver download comes in a windows installer file vs broken out in HEX. Im a bit stuck...no idea what to even try. I have sent a note to Fanatec...no response yet.
Well, UPDATE. Figured out how to downgrade the software through the uninstall functionality and dumping the Fanatec driver file. Now I'm not sure that was the problem, unless the 311 driver is also a problem. SO, it seems my issue is just with one car. The Huracan GT3. Everything else is working fine. Any idea? I reinstalled the software via the steam app, and that didn't help. I deleted the huracan gt3 cars file (common/AC/content/cars), then reinstalled the software via steam, which reinstalled that cars file. Didn't help either. It's unfortunately my favorite car to drive, so kinda blows it's rattling unmercilessly for no reason. Is there a base file for each car somewhere that I'm not finding? Completely fed up...
Well after tightening the bolts in de the quick release of the FORMULA V2 it all was fine for a week or so. Yesterday the buttons stopped working again 2 times in a row. For now I've switched to the Podium Hub with APM to see how that one holds on.
I guess it's not just me! I have a formula carbon. At first it was a double upshift. I disassembled/reassembled the shifting mechanism and that fixed it for about a 2 weeks with heavy driving. Yesterday it started to press button 13, 4, and 3 occasionally randomly. Today it is happening at lot more frequently, but now with random upshifts. I noticed all these buttons it is pressing is on the right side of the wheel. Anyone else notice this pattern?
Ive still not sent my base back for RMA exchange yet as we are still in lockdown and international freight is massively effected. Will do it after as I have my RMA number etc.
Just using the BMW rim without any issues in the meantime so thats fine.
I see a whole bunch of guys in the beta driver section all with identical V2 and looks like new porsche rim also doing exactly the same and freezing out randomly. I think this is probably a more widespread issue that they could fix with software if they put their mind to it.
I've got the buttons ceasing to work, randomly, as well. CSL Elite base and V2 wheel. No apm on mine. So frustrating. It's like the wheel loses connection to the base for a second, and then has to be reinitialized. I've been doing via turning the base off and back on. I feel like, if they'd make the drivers run a check every couple of ticks, we wouldn't have this problem at all.
We already knew a new rim was not going to fix it tbh - I already had a brand new replacement V2 rim given me.
suspected wireless receiver in the base at fault... my RMA already designated as a full free exchange on return, I just physically cant ship it in the current conditions here.
But I still think they could probably find a fix with software if they put some time into it.. depends how many reports they get. I've seen allot more lately. It is almost like they just need to pole the wheel more often like Shane mentions.
For whatever reason its only the V2 and new Porsche rim which must need allot of extra data with APM modules that are having the problem. all other more 'basic' rims are not effected it seems.
I have been having a similar issue, it started with the formula V2 rim with the apm. I have a csw 2.5 that I've been using for years with no issues, but soon after installing the apm onto the formula rim, I ran into the issue of all the buttons (including paddle shifters) either stop working or begin pressing certain buttons on its own. I have my sequential shifter mapped to be the same button as the paddle shifters, and that continues to work when the paddles stop working.
Here's where it gets weird, though: this started with the formula rim but has now started happening with my universal hub (no apm) AND my mclaren gt3 rim. The wheel also sometimes gives strong force in one direction regardless of what iRacing is doing. It has also sometimes decided to restart itself mid session, change to xbox mode on its own mid session, or lose force feedback. If it's any help, the fanatec logo that appears on the little led screen when the wheelbase starts up will stay on until I enter the tuning menu.
All of these issues happen within 3 minutes of getting on track, which means I can't drive without the wheelbase restarting itself or having one of the other issues. Swapping rims is no help either.
If it's any help, here's my setup: CSW 2.5, the previously mentioned rims, fanatec shifter, v3 pedals, PC.
I have tried drivers 334, 336, 346, 366 (updating/downgrading all 3 firmwares as I went from driver to driver). I have gone back and forth between all of them but I landed on v346 after I emailed fanatec. Their email did not solve anything for me. I tried forgetting all fanatec devices from my computer but that was no help. I've tried swapping the USB input but that didn't help either.
finally signs they are aware of a bigger issue here:
notes on new 465 beta drivers:
DD and Wheel Freezes: This is our main task before releasing a new version, please contact me directly via personal message if you experience freezes. We need as detailed information as we can get.
Maybe they have finally got sick of just aimlessly replacing wheelbases that they might actually look at fixing this!
If I had not got a spare BMW wheelrim working flawless I think I would got very upset by now.
First RMA...... they renewed the APM to check if it solved the problem.
Second RMA..... they changed the wheelrim with a spare second used or dirty wheelrim to check if it solved the problem.
Now they are claiming looking into the firmware...
The cheapest and smartest way around would be renewing the whole wheelbase combination straight from the beginning and hold the defective package in house for proper flaw testing. This way they will find the flaw faster and it will spare them headache without disappointed customers like me/us.
Fanatec brand needs instant replacement and proper line testing/customer support living op to the premium brand expectations.
Comments
Hi Sander,
I've contacted my support guy also, and also been talking with Marcel Pfister here:
his reply:
I indeed see this popping up more frequently with the Formula V2 wheel right now so we will try to work on fixing it as soon as possible. Thanks for bringing it up. Keep me updated if you notice any sign or event of what could be the reason. You are right that it sounds much like a firmware issue, did you try going back to an older version like Driver 336? You then also have to manually downgrade the firmware by opening the driver, going to the Update tab and then clicking on the Firmware Update buttons to follow the update process. You can start with downgrading the wheel Firmware for example and see if it makes a difference. Note when you downgrade the base firmware you also need to do it for the motor as both have to have firmware which is compatible to each other. If the version is different the fan might be running load and function is limited.
Driver 336: https://fanatec.com/media/unknown/fc/8b/ff/Fanatec_64_driver_336_beta.msi
I have not downgraded my base that far back like you yet - not had time, did you flash the motor and base back as well when you tried yours? or just the steering wheel firmware?
It does look like this can eventually be fixed with a firmware update, and its good for us that they are getting more reports on this fault, so I wont be spending the huge amount to return by base to them at the moment (If I lived in Germany I would just return it no problem, and get a replacement - but surely they will then find out what causes it, they cant just be throwing all the DD wheelbases away every time they get one back with this fault)
First only downgraded the steering wheel....didn't fixed the problem. Than after I downgraded the Moter and base....still same issue.
Now I will try the 336 firmware
Also same problems on the 336 firmware
Not sure what to do now.
Send the wheelbase and rim in or wait for a proper firmware fix.
Thanks for the update Sander,
Support got back to me to say that it could be a few things including the wireless system in the base or even the main PCB in the base, they would need it back to test - obviously if I returned it, they would most likely just give me a new base or replace these parts and it would be fine. Its rather a question now of if they can fix the issue also with a firmware update.
Obviously something changed, as originally the wheel worked fine from new. The only thing I can think of that I cant try is windows updates. Im now on Windows 10 1909 with all the latest updates installed. perhaps somethings changed in windows... or maybe we both just have identical hardware failures.
As this fault is now coming up more often, I would assume they will eventually find the route cause or fix with software. I have offered to trial any firmware updates they might want to try. It will cost them allot of money if they just keep replacing podium bases without finding out why its happening. Even if it is only a few cases. Marcel Pfister has confirmed that he is seeing this come up more frequently.
In the meantime as the base works perfectly with other wheels im going to wait and see. If you return your base at the moment who know how long it will take to get back! in the current situation it could be months.
I will keep you updated with anything I receive. Hopefully together we can find an answer.
Hi Daniel,
Windows updates definatly could cause these problems, but there seem to be people around having the same problems on the PS4 also.
More and more I am thinking off a wheelbase issue.
Maybe some kinda (wireless)sensor/cog getting dirt that's only pairing with the v2 f1 wheelrims. Than eventually their will come more and more.
You are right, at this crazy time it's better not to return the unit and do some tests and help each other.
I will keep you updated until it's solved!
Here some new experiences...
Last few times the wheel freezed out while hitting a curb or wall. Also for two times now the shifters are being unregistered very randomly like clicking 10 times but only shifting 6 times and eventually running out in a big freeze.
Also the wheelbase is making weird metal on metal kinda sound while crashing, that's new also.
I have just been racing with my BMW wheel for now and not done anything else with the Formula wheel to be honest.
I have still been emailing my contact in support though who has been very helpful, and has come up with a very good and generous solution to help me with shipping etc. So I will return the base to them shortly.
As they are not working at 100% though, and it looks like it will get allot worse before it gets better (In my mind potentially they might be forced to shutdown even, but we will have to see) I have said I would rather ship the base back when I can be sure it will actually arrive and return to me in a reasonable time. For me this is not essential, ill just keep using it with my other Rim in the meantime (Which might be very welcome if I also end up in Lock down or Quarantine at some point!)
If we get any firmware updates in the next few weeks though I will still give it a go and see if it changes anything.
I do the same (power off/on) now. I used to remove the rim because I thought that was the issue, but it seems a power cycle does the same job.
I have the P1 rim with CSL Elite PS4.
No issues with curbs, vibrations, sounds, etc.
I really wish more companies would embrace open source software/hardware. We would have solved this issue for them easily.
I learned my lesson... small niche companies and closed source is not a good combo.
I have the ps4 direct drive and mine will completely stop working as I am playing iRacing happened to yesterday during the Bristol fixed race. When it quits working whatever I was doing like turning, accelerating, and or braking will stay doing that. When it does this none of buttons work like I have my discord push to talk button on my wheel will not work my push to talk for game chat will not work and my return to the pit button will not work even after turning it on and off it will not come back. I have completely unplug the power supply and restart my computer so it will recognize that the wheel is even there so I would like to know what to cause this greatly discourages me and makes me want to find a different direct drive from somewhere else.
I have for a while exact the same freezing issue with dd1 + formula v2 + apm. Tried driver from 335 up to 364 all the same. I added a m6*16mm set screw into the bolt hole in the quick release to tighten the rim and it stopped freezing. Tested several hours long this aferternoon without freezing, might be a temporary solution for some one with this issue.
Ill have try it I do have one from my old csl elite
Got still the same problem with the Allen key attached
hi, I have been having the same issues as well with the V2 wheel and I would really like to ask everyone on this thread if they have the advanced paddle module attached? This has been happening to me for some weeks now and I have tried what seems like hundreds of combinations of Firmware and Drivers with nothing that fixes the issue, even 336 which seems to have worked for some did not work for me!
Wheel base V2.5
PC Driver 356
WB FW 662
SW FW 28
Motor FW 18
This combination has worked best for me over the last week or so as I first thought it may be the wheel firmware but I do agree with earlier comments as to the issue being hardware related as such is why I asked if everyone is running the advanced paddle module to see if we can help narrow the list of possibilities? I find if I remove the wheel from base and then re-attach the problem will usually go away for a while! I saw before that someone suggested that it is more widespread and I think that this could be somewhat accurate as I have seen this on other threads such as reddit! Anyway if we put our heads together maybe we could get to the bottom of the issue a lot faster as I have to agree that it is extremely frustrating. ;)
I told Marcel Pfister that I 'fixed' the freezing problem with a set screw in QR, he suggested that it could be a hardware issue in my case. There for I adjusted the connector pins a tiny bit and now I don't need the extra set screw any more, the freezing never happened since then.
Tested with driver 364 only. I didn't go back to earlier drivers to see if the older drivers had a part in this issue.
Hi, I have the same problem.
Sometimes the shifters doesn't respond and then I also notice that al the buttons on the V2 don't respond. I also have had that some buttons are activated while I am not touching them. After an power cycle it is al fine for a while.
I have an Clubsport V2.5 base which didn't have any problems for 2 years and last month I bought the Formula V2 with the APM, and 2 weeks later a Podium Hub with APM. I am not 100% sure but I think the first time it happend was when I had used the Podium Hub and then switched to the V2.
I also don't recall that it ever happened with the Podium Hub with APM, but again I am not a 100% sure.
Yesterday when it happened again instead of doing a power cycle I went to the Fanatec properties and it showed an CSL Elite P1 PS4 wheel instead of the V2. And you could see that some buttons were activated without me touching them.
What is the best way to continue to help fix this annoying problem?
Should I stick with the Podium Hub with APM to rule out that it doesnt accord with this wheel, or should I switch to my old Formula Carbon without APM, or should I swap out the APM to the normal shifters on the V2?
I will check my connections in the QR but I don't think it is the problem, because after a simpel power cycle it works again without me touching the wheel. Also the fact that the software suddenly sees another type of wheel gives me an indication it is software related.
Hello Everyone, crashing the party w a new twist. I'm on the CS v2.5 on a PC and began this adventure back in 2017. I haven't had any issues til two days ago. I just downloaded the latest firmware driver 347 /wheel firm664/motor v22, and all hell has broken loose. Nothing is working properly. When I start an AC session, the wheel violently jerks left to about 10am and freezes...like it's not centered (which it is). Then I put it in first gear and the wheel starts lightly vibrating, then I hit the throttle, the wheel starts violently shaking like I'm driving over the worst rumble strips ever. It's impossible to drive - and also pulls left or right sometimes and just spins me. It seems tied to the throttle application, but I can't stop it. I have reinstalled the software about 10x on all components and no change. I have changed USB ports, etc. nope. I'm trying to downgrade to lower software (311), but it won't let me. Every time I try to install new or delete old, it tells me I have the latest software and cancels the load and the driver download comes in a windows installer file vs broken out in HEX. Im a bit stuck...no idea what to even try. I have sent a note to Fanatec...no response yet.
Well, UPDATE. Figured out how to downgrade the software through the uninstall functionality and dumping the Fanatec driver file. Now I'm not sure that was the problem, unless the 311 driver is also a problem. SO, it seems my issue is just with one car. The Huracan GT3. Everything else is working fine. Any idea? I reinstalled the software via the steam app, and that didn't help. I deleted the huracan gt3 cars file (common/AC/content/cars), then reinstalled the software via steam, which reinstalled that cars file. Didn't help either. It's unfortunately my favorite car to drive, so kinda blows it's rattling unmercilessly for no reason. Is there a base file for each car somewhere that I'm not finding? Completely fed up...
I just got back the wheelbase and steering wheel from RMA.
It seems like they renewed the wheelrim, for a already used one.
I will test if the problem is fixed and report back
Well after tightening the bolts in de the quick release of the FORMULA V2 it all was fine for a week or so. Yesterday the buttons stopped working again 2 times in a row. For now I've switched to the Podium Hub with APM to see how that one holds on.
I guess it's not just me! I have a formula carbon. At first it was a double upshift. I disassembled/reassembled the shifting mechanism and that fixed it for about a 2 weeks with heavy driving. Yesterday it started to press button 13, 4, and 3 occasionally randomly. Today it is happening at lot more frequently, but now with random upshifts. I noticed all these buttons it is pressing is on the right side of the wheel. Anyone else notice this pattern?
So renewing the f1 steering wheel solved the problem for me
cool..
Ive still not sent my base back for RMA exchange yet as we are still in lockdown and international freight is massively effected. Will do it after as I have my RMA number etc.
Just using the BMW rim without any issues in the meantime so thats fine.
I see a whole bunch of guys in the beta driver section all with identical V2 and looks like new porsche rim also doing exactly the same and freezing out randomly. I think this is probably a more widespread issue that they could fix with software if they put their mind to it.
Today it randomly is freezing out again :(
I will open a third RMA. Only thing left is renewing the wheelbase.
Or maybe you are right Daniel...maybe afterall it is a software issue.
I've got the buttons ceasing to work, randomly, as well. CSL Elite base and V2 wheel. No apm on mine. So frustrating. It's like the wheel loses connection to the base for a second, and then has to be reinitialized. I've been doing via turning the base off and back on. I feel like, if they'd make the drivers run a check every couple of ticks, we wouldn't have this problem at all.
All in all very disappointing.
From the beginning I cannot enjoy my dd1, because it's freezing out randomly.
It's like I bought a very expensive defective product.
It's really a shame, now I will RMA it for the third time.
They should replace it for a brand new one.....
We already knew a new rim was not going to fix it tbh - I already had a brand new replacement V2 rim given me.
suspected wireless receiver in the base at fault... my RMA already designated as a full free exchange on return, I just physically cant ship it in the current conditions here.
But I still think they could probably find a fix with software if they put some time into it.. depends how many reports they get. I've seen allot more lately. It is almost like they just need to pole the wheel more often like Shane mentions.
For whatever reason its only the V2 and new Porsche rim which must need allot of extra data with APM modules that are having the problem. all other more 'basic' rims are not effected it seems.
I have been having a similar issue, it started with the formula V2 rim with the apm. I have a csw 2.5 that I've been using for years with no issues, but soon after installing the apm onto the formula rim, I ran into the issue of all the buttons (including paddle shifters) either stop working or begin pressing certain buttons on its own. I have my sequential shifter mapped to be the same button as the paddle shifters, and that continues to work when the paddles stop working.
Here's where it gets weird, though: this started with the formula rim but has now started happening with my universal hub (no apm) AND my mclaren gt3 rim. The wheel also sometimes gives strong force in one direction regardless of what iRacing is doing. It has also sometimes decided to restart itself mid session, change to xbox mode on its own mid session, or lose force feedback. If it's any help, the fanatec logo that appears on the little led screen when the wheelbase starts up will stay on until I enter the tuning menu.
All of these issues happen within 3 minutes of getting on track, which means I can't drive without the wheelbase restarting itself or having one of the other issues. Swapping rims is no help either.
If it's any help, here's my setup: CSW 2.5, the previously mentioned rims, fanatec shifter, v3 pedals, PC.
I have tried drivers 334, 336, 346, 366 (updating/downgrading all 3 firmwares as I went from driver to driver). I have gone back and forth between all of them but I landed on v346 after I emailed fanatec. Their email did not solve anything for me. I tried forgetting all fanatec devices from my computer but that was no help. I've tried swapping the USB input but that didn't help either.
Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!
finally signs they are aware of a bigger issue here:
notes on new 465 beta drivers:
DD and Wheel Freezes: This is our main task before releasing a new version, please contact me directly via personal message if you experience freezes. We need as detailed information as we can get.
Maybe they have finally got sick of just aimlessly replacing wheelbases that they might actually look at fixing this!
You mean the 265 beta driver notes?
If I had not got a spare BMW wheelrim working flawless I think I would got very upset by now.
First RMA...... they renewed the APM to check if it solved the problem.
Second RMA..... they changed the wheelrim with a spare second used or dirty wheelrim to check if it solved the problem.
Now they are claiming looking into the firmware...
The cheapest and smartest way around would be renewing the whole wheelbase combination straight from the beginning and hold the defective package in house for proper flaw testing. This way they will find the flaw faster and it will spare them headache without disappointed customers like me/us.
Fanatec brand needs instant replacement and proper line testing/customer support living op to the premium brand expectations.