I did an initial support request back in January for this and was told to ensure the screws in the wheelbase and wheel quick release were moderately tight, which I did check... they were.
Then the issue just started getting more and more frequent. I've requested support as I said in my previous post, and still nothing.
did anyone ever get a fix for this? I purchased last Oct and had same issue with DD1 with BMW rim. After update drivers etc all worked well for a while.... now same issue has come back with my F1 rim in iRacing. Very intermittent, have done 12 hour endurance with no issue, but other days all buttons and gear stop working in 15 minutes.
If I cycle power to the DD1 after Im in the race session it seems to last the duration, but if I dont it runs the risk of failing mid race.
Thought spending this much money on a base and rim would result in quality product.... never had the slightest glitch with my old T300 that had hundreds of hours of use...
Can confirm I've had a similar issue. I've sent a message to support and am waiting for a response.
Essentially whats happened to me is the shifters no longer work for an intermittent and random amount of time, and the OLED screen freezes, but I still have use of the other buttons (though I haven't tested them all).
I have read a lot of this thread and have had the same issue as most of you. My setup is the Clubsport Base 2.5 and formula V2 wheel/ v3 pedals. Symptoms as follows; mis-session gear shifts don't work, no buttons work, but it still steers and the pedals work. This was happening most sessions I used the rig. To temporarily fix it I turned off the wheelbase and turned it back on, but then there is no FFB. So it ruins your session and you have to restart your Sim software- not good!
My fix was as follows; I have been running the wheel/wheelbase without the 'lock screw' in place, and noticed that there was some slight play in the wheel when I moved it up and down. I re-fitted the lock screw fairly tightly and found the play up/down movement disappeared. I did this 6 days ago, since then I have had no failures and all is working well. Please note, I have not reinstalled any drivers, upgraded any drivers or Fanalab- in fact ZERO changes to the PC itself. My feeling is that this is an issue with the integrity of the multi-pole connector between the wheel and base, and if the two are not locked down correctly it crashes the Fanatec software (in the base). I may be wrong, but if not, this is most likely the ground or power pin that is losing connection (even for a split second).
I really hope this helps some of you out there, and you are able to fix the issue. I know I found it very frustrating and was getting prepared to dump the wheel and find other hardware.
If this fix doesn't help (maybe because the play between the wheel and base has become greater than mine), I think Fanatec should be prepared to replace the equipment you have, but that's not my call :-(. However, I am convinced from my experience, that the issue is not software or firmware related. It is a simple connection issue.
Sorry to hear you are having this issue too. I am still convinced it is the electrical connection between wheel and base. Since posting I have read about people having all sorts of similar issues including a broken pin from the wheel connector stuck in the wheelbase! I wonder if spraying some electrical contact cleaner on the wheel connector and base connector may help the problem. Something like 'Servisol Super 10'?
I've been having this same issue with my CSL Elite+ and Formula V2 intermittently for over a year now, through dozens of driver and firmware updates, and even installing the Podium APM. Can't recreate the issue at will, sometimes it will be fine for a 24 hour race and sometimes it will crap out at the very start of a league session. Sometimes a few light taps on the wheel will fix it, sometimes I have to power down the wheelbase, turn it back on, then disconnect and reconnect the USB to get it working again.
Just getting back at this thread after a long time. Since then swapped my CSW 2.5 for as CSL DD and now have some H-shifter calibration woes.
In any case, I tried a lot of solutions on the CSW 2.5, but in the end it was just plugging it into different USB ports until one worked flawlessly. Never had any issues since.
I have the problem with the Base DD and the F1 Wheel.
In the middle of a race, the buttons no longer work. Base off and on again and it works again. Sometimes I take the wheel off and put it back on and it works again.
Dd1 playstation version here. It’s happening to me on ps5 and pc. All wheel buttons fail to work.
Very annoying. I can’t recreate it, sometimes it works for a few hours, sometimes it doesn’t show the wheel when I turn it on. Off and on seems to fix it without changing anything. But then it may last a few hours or it may die.. not great for confidence in races.
I tried the ffb test several times but it doesn’t recreate the issue. So I’m really not sure what is causing it as a few clicks on the test create some big tests and no disconnects…
Comments
I've been collating all the videos and photos of my issue here:
I did an initial support request back in January for this and was told to ensure the screws in the wheelbase and wheel quick release were moderately tight, which I did check... they were.
Then the issue just started getting more and more frequent. I've requested support as I said in my previous post, and still nothing.
did anyone ever get a fix for this? I purchased last Oct and had same issue with DD1 with BMW rim. After update drivers etc all worked well for a while.... now same issue has come back with my F1 rim in iRacing. Very intermittent, have done 12 hour endurance with no issue, but other days all buttons and gear stop working in 15 minutes.
If I cycle power to the DD1 after Im in the race session it seems to last the duration, but if I dont it runs the risk of failing mid race.
Thought spending this much money on a base and rim would result in quality product.... never had the slightest glitch with my old T300 that had hundreds of hours of use...
Can confirm I've had a similar issue. I've sent a message to support and am waiting for a response.
Essentially whats happened to me is the shifters no longer work for an intermittent and random amount of time, and the OLED screen freezes, but I still have use of the other buttons (though I haven't tested them all).
I have the same problem.
I bought a DD1 and a Formula Carbon earlier this year.
After 2 weeks, I started to lose the buttons in the middle of the game.
I contacted the support, who made me do several tests.
I took the opportunity to install the Z-Ring, and miraculously, I had no more problems for a few months.
Then in May, again I lost buttons AND ffb, but this time on my BMW GT2 steering wheel, which worked for several years.
I took the QR apart, and the problems went away until yesterday, when my Formula Carbon started messing up
I haven't heard from Fanatec for a month now. Just that I can order the CSL DD
When I think that I hesitated with Simucube, and that I took Fanatec for the tranquillity. 😪
[Problem Fixed]
Hi Fellow Racers,
I have read a lot of this thread and have had the same issue as most of you. My setup is the Clubsport Base 2.5 and formula V2 wheel/ v3 pedals. Symptoms as follows; mis-session gear shifts don't work, no buttons work, but it still steers and the pedals work. This was happening most sessions I used the rig. To temporarily fix it I turned off the wheelbase and turned it back on, but then there is no FFB. So it ruins your session and you have to restart your Sim software- not good!
My fix was as follows; I have been running the wheel/wheelbase without the 'lock screw' in place, and noticed that there was some slight play in the wheel when I moved it up and down. I re-fitted the lock screw fairly tightly and found the play up/down movement disappeared. I did this 6 days ago, since then I have had no failures and all is working well. Please note, I have not reinstalled any drivers, upgraded any drivers or Fanalab- in fact ZERO changes to the PC itself. My feeling is that this is an issue with the integrity of the multi-pole connector between the wheel and base, and if the two are not locked down correctly it crashes the Fanatec software (in the base). I may be wrong, but if not, this is most likely the ground or power pin that is losing connection (even for a split second).
I really hope this helps some of you out there, and you are able to fix the issue. I know I found it very frustrating and was getting prepared to dump the wheel and find other hardware.
If this fix doesn't help (maybe because the play between the wheel and base has become greater than mine), I think Fanatec should be prepared to replace the equipment you have, but that's not my call :-(. However, I am convinced from my experience, that the issue is not software or firmware related. It is a simple connection issue.
Wishing you all the beast of luck!
Happy racing,
Gray
Hi
I tested your solution, and it worked for one evening.
This evening I'm preparing an endurance for tomorrow, and despite the screw, my formula carbon has deactivated twice.
Tomorrow's race is going to be very nice 😡
I sent a message to Fanatec on 12 May, but no response since.
I'm really disappointed to have spent so much money, for a piece of equipment that will have pissed me off more than my Thrustmaster T300 in 6 years
Hi Christophe
Sorry to hear you are having this issue too. I am still convinced it is the electrical connection between wheel and base. Since posting I have read about people having all sorts of similar issues including a broken pin from the wheel connector stuck in the wheelbase! I wonder if spraying some electrical contact cleaner on the wheel connector and base connector may help the problem. Something like 'Servisol Super 10'?
Regards, Gray
I've been having this same issue with my CSL Elite+ and Formula V2 intermittently for over a year now, through dozens of driver and firmware updates, and even installing the Podium APM. Can't recreate the issue at will, sometimes it will be fine for a 24 hour race and sometimes it will crap out at the very start of a league session. Sometimes a few light taps on the wheel will fix it, sometimes I have to power down the wheelbase, turn it back on, then disconnect and reconnect the USB to get it working again.
Just getting back at this thread after a long time. Since then swapped my CSW 2.5 for as CSL DD and now have some H-shifter calibration woes.
In any case, I tried a lot of solutions on the CSW 2.5, but in the end it was just plugging it into different USB ports until one worked flawlessly. Never had any issues since.
Is there a solution now?
I have the problem with the Base DD and the F1 Wheel.
In the middle of a race, the buttons no longer work. Base off and on again and it works again. Sometimes I take the wheel off and put it back on and it works again.
Very annoying with such expensive equipment.
As I said, is there a solution?
Thanks
Dd1 playstation version here. It’s happening to me on ps5 and pc. All wheel buttons fail to work.
Very annoying. I can’t recreate it, sometimes it works for a few hours, sometimes it doesn’t show the wheel when I turn it on. Off and on seems to fix it without changing anything. But then it may last a few hours or it may die.. not great for confidence in races.
I tried the ffb test several times but it doesn’t recreate the issue. So I’m really not sure what is causing it as a few clicks on the test create some big tests and no disconnects…
Did anyone find a solution? I’m guessing either they did and stopped checking the forums.. or they didn’t and sold their gear… 😩
anyone able to offer any help?