Because the native game LEDs are interfering with the FanaLab LEDs because you did not followed the instructions shown when you click the "Enable FanaLab's Game LED/Hardware Support" button which would have shown you that you neet to go to "Options", then "External Display" and then set "Use wheel shift indicator" to "unchecked" in iRacing itself.
Only then FanaLab can do its magic without the interference from native iRacing LED support.
Thank you very much, Maurice! You are, as always, very kind and patient in answering the pilots' questions.
I tested the Mazda MX-5 Cup car at iRacing SS (DD2 & Formula V2) and the rev lights were in sync for me in gears 1-4 but could not rev beyond 7,000 rpm in 5th & 6th (no red led). However, I noticed when loading the profile manually, it issues a warning: "This steering wheel was saved with a different steering wheel than yours." So it will be interesting to hear from Maurice. My guess is the profile is intended to be used with a podium hub, therefore no wheel LED's.
Also, the shift point led flash was out of sync - I changed it from 875 ms to 1000 ms and it was then in sync.
LEDs can be used with ANY Fanatec wheel which has RGB LEDs.
The Mazda profile was saved with a P Hub + P BME Combo.
The warning message will go away when following the instructions shown in the very same pop-up, just load the profile anyway and re-save it, then the warning wont appear again.
That the LEDs do not flash in gears 5 and 6 is due to the car being slow and not revving up enough in these higher gears, nothing you can do other than enabling RPM per gear for this car to then get LEDs flashing in those gears, however then the LEDs wont match the in-game LEDs anymore because, well, they also dont flash in those higher gears ;)
The actual Flash Interval for the RevLEDs is indeed 1000 ms, thanks for the hint, will fix in my next upload for V2.00.
The issue from Ronilson however has nothing to do with my profiles, he just forgot to disable the native LED support which now interferes with my LEDs, as I explained above ;)
Hi, the rev lights on BMW GT4 dont match, thanks.
Because you use the LED profile of the Ligier, not the BMW.
Easily recognizable by the blue middle LED, I only use that for the Ligier. The middle LED on the M4 GT4 is red.
You have to use the correct profile to get synced LEDs.... ;)
Anyone else having trouble getting the profiles to auto load matched car since the upgrade and new profiles? Not sure if I should post it in the other thread. I tried deleting and re matching but still doesn’t seem to work at least not consistently and it was pretty solid before. Any ideas?
Mine work fine. Did you double check the XML file edits? Did you use your old profiles or the new (1.99.02) profiles that Maurice posted? Also, what Sim(s) are we talking about?
Hi! I made a simple script that multiplies the FF value by 1.25 to match Maurice's recommendation for DD1 bases. It loops over all .pws files in current directory and asks the user whether they want to put the new files in a new folder or overwrite the existing files. There's a powershell .ps1 script for Windows users and a bash script. Enjoy!
Right in time for FanaLab V1.99.05 (even though it's quite late and I actually was half-sleeping already but the upload threw me off the bed) here are also my newest profiles which are ready for both this V1.99.05 as well as the upcoming official V2.00.00 (which is planned to be basically V1.99.05 just renamed because V1.99.05 is the final RC).
This update is mainly focused on AMS2 and does not include changes to profiles of other games compared to my previous upload for FanaLab V1.99.02.
As always: Have fun with the LED p0rn and FFB madness :)
Hi Jakub, sounds great, but can you give a manual how to use the file. I am not able to use it.
If you’re using Windows put the .ps1 file in the directory with profiles you want to change and then you should be able to right click the .ps1 file and choose “Run with PowerShell”. If it doesn’t work it means that PowerShell doesn’t like some characters in the folder’s name, so you can manually navigate to the directory in PowerShell and execute the script. If you don’t know how to do that, just put the profiles and the .ps1 file in a folder without any special characters and then place it in the root of one of your partitions (e.g. C:\Profiles or D:\Whatever), then finally you can right click the script and choose “Run with PowerShell”. Let me know if it worked for you and remember not to run it multiple times on the same profiles or you’ll get very high ffb values.
Thank you for the fast reply ! Unfortunately it does not work for me. I have done it like you described, but wen I run the ps file the black window comes for a very short time and disappear immediately again. I can run the PS app and become the black window with C:\Windows\System32> but I dont know how I can run the ps file in this way.
The problem is, that the file is not digitally signed. But I was sucessfull to run the file ab least. I have got the message to choice 1,2, or 3. But aftre writing 1 or 2 nothing happend.
I want to preface this by saying that you should never run unknown exes shared with you by strangers from the internet, so I strongly encourage you to try to do this manually by cd-ing in to the directory with your profiles and the script. If you're unwilling to do this, here's a precompiled exe of this script, let me know if this works and remember to put it in a folder with all the .pws files. If you're still having problems you can DM me so we don't OT too much in this thread and I'll help you with this on the weekend.
Hi sorry, idiot here needing an idiots guide, do I run this where I put the car profiles?
Any chance of a video to follow?
Had same issues running this as well, until I tried changing the socalled ExecutionPolicy with the command Set-ExecutionPolicy -ExecutionPolicy RemoteSigned -Scope CurrentUser in the terminal/powershell window. Then the script ran flawlessly.
Really handy script, thanks!
Yes, you put this in the same directory as the individual .pws profiles. I can make a video on the weekend, but it genuinely is just putting the file in the right directory and double clicking it.
Forgot that not all people use powershell scripts on the regular 😅 thank you for writing the command and glad you like it!
Hi Jakub, thank you so much fpr the exe file. It works perfect, I ever wished I allways have such a file to convert the pws files.
Thank you ! Great support !
Glad it's finally working for you and it really does save a lot of time 😊
The method I have used to make global edits to all PWS files is Notepad ++. It's just a text editor but you can open/save/close multiple files all at once.
thank you for doing all the work for us. :-)
I use iracing and have much more realistic ffb effects if I don't set the wheel force to 15nm ingame, but let iracing determine it automatically (activate checkbox). Can you please double check that?
Kind regards, Timo! :-)
did you set 15nm ingame as described? I also had oscillation problems with maurices settings using a dd2. But when setting the wheel force to 25nm (or use auto checkbox) the problem disappeared and laptimes get better! Can you doublechack that?
Kind regards, Timo
I would not use the Auto FFB feature of iRacing.
So, no, I can not double check as I am happy with how the FFB feels with a Wheel Force of 15Nm and the respective Max Force which is listed in each profile Name.
Also, Wheel Force should always be what's the max Peak Torque of the Base, and with my FFB setting of 60% that's 15Nm, not 25Nm. So setting Wheel Force to 25Nm is just wrong in this case.
Oscillations are expected in this game when you want a kinda strong and realistic FFB like I do with my settings because of the very low FFB refresh Rate of just 60Hz in this game. Just keep your hands on the wheel ;)
I love your work and with your profile my m4gt3 makes so much fun in iracing. so I have tons of respect and I am very very thankful!!
Just let me share my experiences and forum members can test which setting is better. i am positive that 25nm is better value.
I have tried to use Maurice's settings and followed the instructions in the txt file. I'm quite confident I have followed all instructions.
With FFB set to 60% its feels very good, perhaps a little too strong but good. At 75%, which I understand I need to adjust to for DD1, it is way too strong.
With my current settings, I doubt very much that it is realistic at 75% FFB.
Any recommendations on what to check? Or advice.
Probably nothing wrong. There’s quite a bit of personal taste involved in FFB settings 🙂
I find the latest files from Maurice a bit strong at 75 on my DD1 as well, so I have reduced in-game gain a bit (AMS2).
Thanks for response. So reduce in game , and leave tuning menu FFB at 75% ?
Or reduce tuning menu to 60% and leave ingame at recommended levels ?
Scrap that. I just tried 75% again with recommended in game and it feel pretty good. Don't know if I just accepted the strength or something else change. Either way I feel better using all recommended configurations.
I'm quite new in this topic, so I ask your patience first :)
I tried to google and search these forums for a few days, but I couldn't find any answer. I have a CSL DD (8nm with the boost kit) and I tried to user the setups from Maurice, but as far as I understood they have been made for DD2. I also saw the converter for DD1, but it is still not what I was looking for.
Do you guys have a conversion app or just some guidance so I can do it manually myself? Or it is something I misunderstood and those files won't work for me?
Or maybe some other source (post somewhere) which can help me?
Thanks in advance!