Fanatec Beta Driver V352/356 [DD Performance Update] for Podium Bases ONLY (all steering wheels)

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  • Thank you very much. That helped. Not right from teh start, but when I loaded the Fanatec wheel property page, the break engine suddenly stopped. It did NOT stop in the first place when I put the ABS to OFF. Strange. Anyway, solved.


    Unfortunately I have a second (minor) problem: when I put my DD2 into CSW 2.5 mode, I can run and operate the wheel property page without trouble.

    When i move to the PC mode i cannot start the wheel property page, I receive error message: canot start, please disconnect the device USB and try again. When I do, this does not help. The error is minor because I can tune the wheel using my wheel and using Fanalab, but I still want to get this fixed.

    Any idea anybody?

  • Try a different USB port, reinstall the driver when the Base is powered on and in pc mode. This should fix that issue.


  • Hi Hugo,

    The information you're dispensing is unfortunately WRONG. Magnetic flux doesn't make any sound. Also realize that a motor's stator and rotor never ever touch. What everyone is hearing is clearly metal on metal. Not metal on plastic, not plastic on plastic. The magnets in the DD base are permanent magnets which means that continuous banging will result in the magnets losing magnetisim with what are known as magnetic domains becoming completely misaligned. Also know that a healthy motor under normal operation does not make any type of sound. The fine folks at Fanatec have not yet come out to explain the source of the sound, the root cause, and the mitigation (which ultimately should probably end up being a firmware algorithm to reducing power to the motor in a slower ramp down when the power off is pressed). Fanatec could have easily painted the case, rotor, stator and observed where the paint transfer has taken place to identify the banging sound by now.


    Regards,

    Cassie

  • edited January 2020

    Lovely explanation, so explain me something...


    How something that works without making any sound, without any play on the shaft or whatsoever can magically produce a metal/metal sound like you say?

    Cause when turned on or off you can rotate you can shake and nothing touches anything and you don't hear nothing...


    Explain please ...


    Also, unless nowadays firmware's are magical that can mess with mechanics, how everyone have been playing so far without mechanical problems and without metal/metal sounds, and now with a firmware, you suddenly have no tolerances in the shaft or magnets?

  • Forgot to mention...

    IF there was indeed something touching, your "ramp down solution" is not a solution, it would only hide the problem, cause if something is touching it would keep touching....

  • edited January 2020

    While this Theory sounds Good... I 100% agree with Hugo... I dont see how this sound can be Metal on Metal because you, I, We would all feel the Scraping of the Metal while using the wheels...

    IMO this thump when powering off the wheel is more than likely caused by a Quick Micro Fluctuation in the magnetic field when shutting the wheel off...Ex: Powering off wheel creates a Sudden Left Right Jolt...These Micro Magnetic field fluctuations are also more than likely the cause of the Random thumps that are felt with the New Dr/Fw...Once the Dr/Fw flaw Isolated they can be Fixed with a Dr/Fw update as the DD wheels seem to work as intended.


    My Theory ---> Possible cause for the thumps while driving could be the Dr/Fw seems to Randomly switch between Podium Hub and UHX...This fraction of a second between cycles can cause the Micro thumps while driving because the DD base technically thinks you changed the wheel and Deactivates Podium Hub and Activates UHX or Vice versa.


    I have a DD2 from 1st batch --> Day 1 Pre Order and for Me these Random thumps only appeared with the 352 Dr/Fw update.... But Even still the FFB is By Far better than its ever been.

    I don't see where the Dr/Fw is causing Mechanical Flaws even with the extra Heat the Dr creates....also accounting for Metal Expansion due to extra heat.... If it were a Heat Issue then the wheels would Grind all the time when a certain temp is reached because of the Metal Expansion abd woukd Only Run smooth if or when the motor is Cool.

  • Hi...


    forgot to mention temps... In my case i didn't get any change in temps, for me they are the same as before this driver...

    if you try to hold the wheel while turning off there will be almost no sound, so this kinda proves what you're saying about the left/right quick movement making the sound.

    Never the less, it would be great that Fanatec come with official explanation of what's causing the sound, to let most of the users rest in peace that this is or not a problem.

  • Apart from the random jolts my DD1 is quite while in use. No sounds at all! 1st batch here aswell.

  • About temps...

    Same as before...

  • Thank you very much, Maurice. That helped, again!

    Your´s and Fanatec support are MARVELOUS! Thank you!

  • can we please just get a driver where these random jolts are fixed? it's been happening for months and months, i'm fed up with having to wait months on end for a driver that works properly after spending a grand on a wheel base

  • This. I'm not getting jolts, but I still have the Formula v2 freezes in v346. What good are new features if you have to deal with new bugs?

  • An update for anyone interested in my 'bricked' DD1 (not conclusive it was caused by 352, but it worked perfectly all year for 10+ hours a week use, then died an hour after installing 352... so...).

    I've always had outstanding support when I needed it from Fanatec, but I'm not seeing it, this time. Notwithstanding the xmas holiday delays:


    Dec 20 reported the issue and received a reply asking for a video and asking that I start the DD1 in bootloader mode.

    I replied with a video, and explained that the DD1 won't enter bootloader mode


    Dec 23 Fanatec asked me to put the DD1 into bootloader mode after doing this:

    1. Force all windows updates, even if they are set on automatic. Then use another USB port

    2. Uninstall the driver. If you should run Fanalabs, then please also uninstall it, too.

    3. Install an older version of the driver.

    4. Now flash the firmware again (downgrade).


    I did these things, it made no difference, I replied with two more videos and explaining that the DD1 will not enter bootloader mode. I asked that an RMA process begin.


    Dec 31 Fanatec replied asking me to start the DD1 in bootloader mode... OMG.

    I replied saying again that it won't enter bootloader mode. I asked that an RMA process begin. I have not received any communication from Fanatec since then.


    Jan 3 I emailed again reiterating that the DD1 was dead and summarised everything that I've tried, and detailed the exact nature of the fault for the fourth time, and asked again that an RMA process begin.

    I've had no reply to that.


    So. I don't feel that Fanatec are keen to help me get a working DD1 under the warranty, and I'm disappointed that after three videos, several emails and detailed explanations of the issue that three times in a row they ask me to put it into bootloader mode, which it won't do. It's like Groundhog day, except with several days between each new request to try bootloader mode.

    I'm getting nowhere and feel like I'm being ignored and am a low priority. It's extremely frustrating. My league's new season starts in a few days and I'm the damn reigning champion :( If any Fanatec staff sees this I'd really appreciate any help getting the process moving, please.

  • This is not, how it should be. I feel with you.

    I really hope, that Thomas and his employees start to overthink those behavior.

    Man, you hear it so often that the support is not that good. They have to do their homework now.

    Best they answer here in the thread, that customer can see that they're doing their job and don't ignore their customers.

  • Ran into a problem just now. Playing wreckfest for something different and all of a sudden I got the “grinding” feeling like sand in a ball bearing or something. Felt like the anti notching algorithm got out of sync. It normally makes a quiet noise when turning the wheel but it was quite loud when it happened. Turned it off and on again and it was fixed.

  • Hey listen, I'm not trying to propose any theory but I won't be the first person to open up my DD to help investigate a pre-alpha firmware glitch. If you guys feel so inclined to do so, go fill your boots. The truth is, the sound either comes from metal on metal or metal on plastic or plastic on plastic. And the bottomline is, any sound regardless of the source is unnerving and we call on Fanatec to give us a solution and to update 352/353 on a prompt deadline. All company resources should be focused on firmware-- they are not just a hardware company and someone help poor Ben Mansill out ASAP!

    If you guys think that power management on the off button is not feasible, then you don't suspect that the firmware changed the power management of the motor. The whole time you're using the DD, the current , the motor is varying it's flux depending on software inputs. More current to the motor results in more flux and there has been a documented change in higher current draw due to the firmware. The physics that I'm alluding to is primary school physics and you might remember an Englishman called Michael Faraday who came up with a law that relates flux with current. Little kids will move a wire connected to an Ammeter between opposing poles of a magnet and see current induced in the wire. If you graduate from primary school physics and learn about motors and torque then you also come to realize that torque is proportional to current. So realize that the DD is varying current while you're using the wheel and that Fanatec can easily incorporate into the firmware a power decrement process to ramp down and send the motor to a cool off mode before it switches off without a thump like before when the motor used less power.

  • Daniel-- Yikes

    Can Fanatec please address Ben Mansill's issue expeditiously? My heart totally broke for him when I first read his post last year. He's clearly tired of the ol' run around. You guys shouldn't try a man's patience when it comes to honoring a warranty you have sold him particuarly if you're so quick to process our purchase orders.


    Regards,

    Cassie

  • edited January 2020

    Ok Very well...You are entitled to your Theories... You go from Metal to Metal Contact/ Hot Spot to Now Smoother Power Ramp up and Ramp down <-- However i will say the latter statement Smoother Power Ramp Up/Down makes more sense than your Metal to Metal Hot Spot Rant...

    Also Note that the Higher power consumption is Due to the wheel is Now 16bit on the New 352 Dr/Fw vs 8Bit with Prior Dr/Fw ....Its simple Grammar school mathematics 16Bit > 8Bit = more energy must be used due to Faster /More calculations being done on the wheel and thus can also lead to Higher wheel Temps due Greater wheel performance.


    But I in any event with you I Digress... feel free to carry on your Conspiracy theories and Rants with out Me😉


    Best Regards

    GrimeyDog


  • For all you Americans, please keep in mind that Fanatec is located in Germany, which is a European country. It is quite possible that key personell has taken two whole weeks off during Christmas. And January 6 is a public holiday in Germany as well.

    Found this info regarding holidays in Germany:

    "Workers who do a six-day work week have the right to an annual minimum of 24 vacation days per year.

    For employees who work five days a week, it's 20 days of holiday per year and for those with a four-day week it's 16 days per year.

    But these figures are only the minimum. Depending on the collective agreement you have with your employer, you could have more vacation days than the legal minimum. In many occupations and industries across the country, for instance, 30 days annual paid leave is common."

    This may help explain why support seems to take a very long time. Note that this is just my own, personal theory, I am in no way connected to Fanatec, but as a Norwegian citizen (also in Europe) I know that a lot of businesses just about crawl to a halt during Christmas and New Years in this part of the world.

  • Dude... just no. Storing 8 bits vs 16 in what is likely a 32 bit embedded processor is not going to significantly change power consumption. Consider the Podium Hub, which has an embedded processor of its own, in an enclosed space, without even passive cooling such as a heat sink.

  • edited January 2020

    FWIW...Its the DD base Fw that's been increased to 16bits Not the Hub...

    8bit = 256 increments

    16bit = 65536 ---> FFB commands now get send with increased resolution of 16-bit (65536 increments) instead of 8-bit.

    That's a Considerable Jump!!! that's why with the New Dr/Fw the FFB motor puts out considerably more Lively Feel and Needs to draw more power...

    Its Not Rocket Science More Power Draw = More Heat Created🤓

    dunno how much you know about PC's but any time you use more processing power your PC Requires and uses more power even if its just a tad bit... This will always result in Higher temps.... I am Not Noticing any major increase in Motor temp, Driver temp is maybe +3 to 5 higher but the FFB feel is Considerably better than any Prior driver to date...To Be 100% honest.... I'm Really Racking My Brain to figure out what all the Ruckus and Fuss is about....seems We are all awaiting the perfect Dr/Fw it will come when its ready but the Fw as is at least with PC for the most part works as intended.

    People Complain about Fanatec Continually developing the Dr/Fw that's a Good thing!!! it means they haven't given up and are striving to improve their product line...When they stop Developing the Dr/Fw people will complain about that too because its just Human Nature that we always want More and We want it Not Now but Yesterday is when we shoulda had it😑


    The Best Part of Me Not working for Fanatec is I don't have to be Customer sensitive or politically correct... I get to say stuff like this🤣🤣🤣

  • How much do I know about PCs? After 14 years as a software developer... a bit.

    The CPU inside the DD2 is likely an ARM low-power variant; my guess would be a Cortex-M4 or Cortex-A7. These are designed to consume way less than a watt in normal operation.

  • That's good then you know that what i said is correct... Don't matter how low power consumption is designed to be when you ramp up performance then power draw will increase... any increase in power draw will by default create more heat even if its only a tad bit.

  • Kevin LoweKevin Lowe Member
    edited January 2020

    You're confusing quantization resolution and magnitude. The two are unrelated.

  • edited January 2020

    Quantization is the undesirable process of limiting resolution of a continuous signal. For example, a 12-bit analog-to-digital converter (ADC) allows only 212 (4096) discrete values to represent a voltage. ... For the ideal case, the value will be the closest discrete value to the actual value.

    Quantization is defined as a lossy data compression technique by which intervals of data are grouped or binned into a single value (or quantum).

    From:

    https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/

    Man I have No Idea what "quantization resolution" is and Even Google Can't Help Me🤣🤣🤣 My Brain just won't Decipher all that Fancy Lingo.

    All I know is the DD2 wheel Feels better than ever with the New 352 Driver!!!... it Can produce More FFB effects at 16bit resolution than it could at 8bit resolution...Due to the Increased performance Power Draw has been increased and thus it may run a Tad Hotter than it did on previous drivers🤣🤣🤣... But that wasn't even the Focal point of the Original post you Quoted... The point of that post was to Dispute/ Dispel the claim that there is Metal on Metal Grinding due to the New 352 Dr/Fw🤓

  • Hi everyone, I have been having trouble with the firmware update on my new DD1. Updating the firmware to 669 or 670 seems to go well, then the fan comes on 100%, indicating to update motor firmware. I update the motor firmware, but after it says successful the base will not boot or respond past the first Fanatec splash screen on the OLED display and requires a hard unplug to get it to power down. I am able to start it in bootloader mode though, so thats good. I have tried many combinations of rim on, rim off, podium hub on/off, several usb ports, a laptop and a desktop, downgrading to 346 and 347 (662 or 664). Even motor firmware V30 and 34 both will work with the respective base firmware. It seems that any of the 669/670 with motor V38 causes the freeze. I have also tried doing the motor firmware first while base is still 662 and 664, and the base will 100% fan and then freeze when I load the 669/670 firmware. I have re-downloaded the zip files, and used different PCs, and extraction programs.



    Wheel Base Model (product ID): DD1

    Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Podium Hub and/or CSL Xbox wheel

    Driver Version: 352, 353

    Base FW Version: 669, 670

    Wheel FW Version: 30, 34, 38

  • What is your system??? 64bit or 32bit??? did you install the correct bit version for your PC??? If so Reinstall the PC Dr... when prompted select Repair then Restart PC... power wheel on... If Wheel is Not recognized Reinstall PC Dr again.... Power wheel on and check if you still have problem.... If so Try Reflashing wheel and Motor FW....then report back.

  • I'm well aware of how an analog signal is converted to digital (or in this case, how a signal is created digitally for conversion back to analog).

    Maximum power (and the corresponding amount of heat shed as a by-product) is still the same amount of power whether it's represented digitally as 0xFF or 0xFFFF.

  • FYI I've just received an RMA advice for my DD1, underway now. Turns out the guy I was talking to was on leave. Happy now.

    Suggestion for Fanatec staff - use the out of office function on email if you're away on holidays, it would relieve a lot of stress and uncertainty :)

  • Yes, Thanks. I am on a 64 system, and exclusively use those drivers. I have donw the repair, restart, re-power stuff a lot of times. The initial flashes all seem to say successful, and i dont have issues with detection or connection other than when the base freezes at the splash screen and becomes unresponsive, seemingly with V38.

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