I already set the UDP Framerate to 10, it is even the default setting.
Ok you're telling me the REV LED works perfectly fine on every car with Fanated LED in Options enabled but when using fanalab i have to set it manually? How do I even know what settings are correct for which car ?
Fanatec is an official Sponsor of CM F1 2019, its not like im playing a fully modded game....come on, at least give provide the users the information they need and the settings which have to be done, particullary if EVERY car is different... !
and WHY is it default supported on CSL Elite for PS4 and not on CSL Elite 1.1 ?
Excuse me my expression but you do see how silly that looks when spending 1000 Bucks and more on Hardware ?
Dude, come down. :D
Fanatec is not an official sponsor of CM F1 2019. They are an official sponsor of the Formula 1, not Codemasters and therefore not from the Codemasters F1 game!
What Hardware and how Codemasters implements these is fully up to the game developer (Codemasters) and not up to Fanatec or Formula 1.
To get the correct LED settings you have to go into the game, load a car, engage Neutral Gear and play with the throttle until the first LED lights up. Then go into FanaLab and type in a % number and see if the LED lights up or not and then you have to find the correct % value and repeat it for every LED.
I have made car specific FanaLab profiles which you can find attached. But I dont know if you can properly load the files into FanaLab because your wheel base is also nut fully supported by FanaLab (no Tuning Menu) but maybe you can at least load the LED settings which should already give you the 100% accurate LEDs for every car in that game so you do not have to spend hours or days to find the % values like I had to...
And to get everything synced in game with FanaLab maybe you then indeed need FanaLab 1.23 when 10Hz UDP Send Rate is still not synced because 1.12 has this known telemetry delay issue.
Oh ,and btw no the LED settings in game natively are also not working properly because Codemasters did not took the time to adjust everything perfectly, especially not the different matching LED colors etc, its just standard yellow/red/blue and not even in sync with in game LEDs at all. And, as said, you have to find the correct values for every 3rd party software, not just FanaLab.
Well first of all thank you for your settings, i will try them.
Yes, they are an official Sponsor of F1 therefore they also said they work with CM.
So guess what, they have a collaboration...
And since when is it forbidden to critizize something? I'm just putting down my experiences with Fanatec Products. And i really dont think is too much asked to have:
a) way clearer Software and Driver overview
b) Not tons of Beta's
c) Working Hardware with an Official non modded Game especially when they work together
d) easy to configure Hardware
When you buy a Ferrari you definetely expect more from the features than from a Smart.
I mean you spent days to find the settings you just gave me....
For something they should think about how to get the Data correctly from the game.
And even if you dont believe me, with Driver 340 and NO Fanalab the LED worked perfectly sync with every car ! Only the Flag LED didnt work.
For the Rev LED, open the file with Notepad (or similar) and do a find/replace with all comma with period. That did the trick for me. Some Windows system uses comma (,) as decimal placer that's why Fanalab has trouble reading the values properly.
Or try turning off the LED option under Game Profiles. This might allow the actually game settings to come through instead of using settings from Fanalab. I haven't tried this so hopefully it'll work.
Thank you for your suggestion!
Do you know where the file is saved by default? And you mean the Profile?
I already tried the second option, didn't work unfortunately.
Maurice Settings are pretty accurate (thank you again) which i importet.
But to go back to the driver issue:
Does someone else have the same issue when Driver 356 is installed?
I can't open Fanatec Wheel Properties anymore, it just opens and doesnt show any configs and then the program closes itself.
When then going ingame my wheel is just fully turned to the right and all lights are blinking.
I edited the original file before importing into Fanalab, but if you want to edit the file already imported, go to C:\Users\<yourname>\AppData\Local\Fanatec\FanaLab\settings and it's in one of the folders (for me it's \5_0).
As for the wheel property not showing up, have you tried a different USB port. I've had this or similar happening to me when I turn on the wheel base without the USB plugged in. There was an explanation for it but I forgot :) Anyways, I fixed it through Device Manager by removing the USB root hub (https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/fanatec-csw-2-5-problems.145506/#post-2659897).
Today, for the first time, I was really faced with the problem of unexpected tremors from the base on a flat road, previously I also experienced them, but this was once a week and was of rather weak strength. However, today in a 12-minute race in the iRacing game on the Lime Rock track I got them about 8 times, and 3 of them were really strong!
After logging into the system, I was very concerned about this and went into the base driver, just to make sure everything was okay there. But after 10 seconds of work, it hung and did not respond. I rebooted the computer and found that the system does not see the base, tried to turn it off, but it did not respond to the shutdown button.
I turned off the power on the base and the computer, turned it on again, and in a panic I am writing you this message. The base in the system is visible, but everything that I described above worries me very much, especially unexpected tremors. If it starts to repeat now, it will be impossible to play.
P.S. Translated by Google Translator
Windows 10 / 1909
Wheel Base Model (product ID): DD1 / Podium Racing Wheel F1®
Driver Version: 356
Base FW Version: 670
Wheel Base Motor FW Version: 38
Steering Wheel FW: 28
FanaLab Version: 1.24
not sure if this has been addressed, but when running dirt rally 2.0 (steamvr), forces are going right from the moment the game is started.. I have fanalab installed also ..
reverting to official drivers worked..
What are your Setup settings on the base? Are you running a too high value on the Force Feedback Intensity (FEI)? Some say it's best at 60-70 with the latest beta driver.
I have the DD2, with this beta drivers and driving in iRacing , I am experiencing randomly FFB Spikes (Strong spikes), not sure if somebody else is getting the same issue...
In the DD2 Oled screen the spike is super evident. No sure if it's something from iRacing? and wondering if someone is having the same issue...
screen that is showing ff forces is causing this spikes
I have noticed one thing...the led screen on the wheel displays nothing in iRacing...dont really need it but it aint working...on the scale of things it minor to very very minor
A really strange and annoying problem all of a sudden with the DD2 I've just reported to the support, has anyone else encountered it?
Wheel Base Model (product ID): DD2
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): 918 RSR, Formula v2
Driver Version: 356, 346
Base FW Version: latest for the 356 and 346 drivers
Wheel FW Version: latest for the 356 and 346 drivers
FanaLab Version: not installed
I had been using the DD2 with the 356 drivers and latest firmware available for it (without FanaLab) with the Formula v2 rim and the universal hub for Xbox with no problems up until recently when I've tried the new Porsche 918 RSR wheel for Project Cars 2 in the PC mode (factory recommended settings). It was perfectly fine for the first hour or so before I've noticed new strange unnatural FFB or motor vibration coming from inside the wheel. At the moment this constant "in-wheel jolts" pressure happens even to the Formula v2 wheel as well when the base is idle and running. Nothing I've tried has helped thus far: installing v346 driver with the older firmware, setting the wheel base to the 2.5 comp mode. Mind you. it doesn't even work in 2.5 comp mode in Project Cars 2: the wheel and pedals don't even work in-game with the Comp 2.5 mode. Turning off the vibration setting in driver (SHO) doesn't help either. The wheel doesn't physically vibrate, it can only be felt inside the hands like something is constantly running inside of the wheel (motor like).
Try to turn off the damper setting of the WB.
Thank you, but it makes no difference.
Could it be the fan inside the wheelbase?? I dont believe that it can be so unbalanced. Can you check on the oled the temperature and the rpms of the fan.
Well, there is a vibration motor in the wheel itself... I think it stays on during firmware updates.
When updating to driver 356 and firmwares, did you update to motor FW38 and did you run the motor calibration for anti cogging without a steering wheel attached?
Thank you, everyone, for the help. I've inspected a bit according to your assumptions, but to no avail:
Temp (C): Mot 22, Drv 29, Bas 28, WQR 32. Fan 0600 RPM, Power 100%.
Of course. As I was saying, the base used to work perfectly fine before trying the new 918 wheel in PCars 2 for an hour or so.
Probably, but how is that the case?
I can still feel constant jolts inside the wheel when the power is on no matter what. And why doesn't it work in 2.5 comp mode in PCars 2?
Any updates regarding release date again for this as I can't use my CSW Base V2 without it, is there the previous version anywhere as struggling to find one?
Also is this new driver going to make the V2 compatible with FanaLab as I can't get any of my flag LED's to work when on any game at the moment?
Really don't want to have to upgrade to a new wheel base if I can help it!
Just use driver 356, there should be no issue with it and your CSW v2 as the issue with the broken Drift mode only applies to the CSW v2.5 so you can use this driver with a csw v2 just fine. With FanaLab 1.23 your FlagLEDs of the Fv2 will also work ;)
I download it & when I go to open the Fanatec Wheel Property Page & go onto my wheel base the window is open for a second & then crashes on me so it doesn't give me anytime to do anything on it though?
Any idea's I meant sorry?
Also Fanalab isn't letting me do any editing with my wheel regarding LED's or even the Tuning Menu? It's picking the base & the wheel up at the bottom but only the wheel is all in colour... the base in shown in grey, maybe meaning there's some kind of error?
Before I forget, now I've downloaded the driver my in wheel tuning menu is very slow to react?
Finally decided to update from v346 to v356 on the DD1, and the changes were so noticeable that I was able to shave off ~1.5s on my PB during my race at Watkins Glen in iRacing. The steering was very smooth/light, and the braking was more consistent. Definitely a confidence booster.
I didn't really notice any "issues" other than the noted mechanical sound when turning off the wheel base.
Thank you for all the hard work. Stay safe and healthy. Looking forward to the next one.
Let us know what it's like after the first 10 hours of driving. There have been some reportings that issues won't show until a good amount of time.
Are you running the tuning menu settings with the recommended values for the various games? Did you have any issues upgrading any of the firmwares on base or motor? Did you upgrade firmware for the wheel, pbme and qr as well?
What games do you play?
hello guys, I recently got the DD2 and downloaded driver package 356, for the 1st few days the wheel felt good for iracing though a bit strong with the recommended settings on the forum, now after a few laps and intermittently there is what feels like a random spike or a jolt in the FFB, it is definitely not a nice feeling from the wheel,
is there any fix to this issue ?
Mostly Race in GT4, GT3 and GTE
Jolts are a known issue as you can read in the first post
thats cool, i did read that was glad to see i was not the only one with this issue,
i guess just keep an eye open for the next driver package on the forum ?
or does anyone know if the official one 346 on the website is ok to use still ?
currently happening to often to enjoy racing with
thanks for reply maurice
When I go into the Wheel Property Page & then select my Wheel Base which is the CSW V2, it crashes after a second of opening it & there is just this screen. Is anybody having the same issue's?
This is after downloading the new 356 driver...
I tried to install this update about 15 times. But when I try to open the properties page it closes itself again. I'm not able to update my wheelbase or wheel. Some say I need this driver to make the flag leds work on my wheel.
Can anyone help me out?
Wheelbase: CSL elite 1.0 (I Think, about 3 years old, with the pixelated front))
Wheel: Clubsport Formula V2
Pedals: Clubsport V3
Thanks in advance,