This is the normal sound when you the switch a gear in Forza. I've looked at now almost 10 videos of different drivers and it sounds absolutely identical. I think there ist also in the full game no damage in the telemetry.
ACL feature is not cheating, nor has it been removed, it's never been on the Clubsport wheel, it was a setting for Xbox 360 wheels for Forza.
People are always referring to realism for driving games, to get as close to their own car or past experience for example. In real life, a road car with paddle shifters is always faster than a manual car with clutch, no loss of acceleration and seamless shifts = faster.
In Forza, there are 3 choices for you to choose, auto, manual and manual with clutch. Auto is slow, manual is faster and manual with clutch is the fastest. So, in Forza, if you want to drive a paddle shift/sequential shift car using a clutch pedal, then that's up to you, but I would rather use the paddles with no clutch pedal. But by choosing this method I am at a disadvantage, fair ?, no.
ACL was added when the CSR Elite came out and was then added to the CSR later. It is also an option on the Thrustmaster TX (official Forza wheel), and it is only used in Forza as far as I am aware. I don't like being called a cheat when I'm doing nothing wrong, I don't cut corners, and I like to drive a car with the paddles, so why should I be punished, or called a cheat.
I modified my V1 pedals to get a better brake pedal, I took the sensor off of the clutch so I could put a big plate over the brake and clutch pedals for more pressure/resistance, it works great for me, but in Forza, without ACL, it makes me slower, I could use a button for the clutch, but that is a pain in the ass. If ACL does not return, I will modify my hub, there is a spare terminal on the shifter micro switch, so no big deal.
Just getting my point across for all you realism drivers out there
What makes it a cheat is the fact that given the same settings on a controller you have to use the clutch button to do the shift. The ACL feature doesn't remove the need to send the "clutch button was depressed and released" signal. The ACL feature presses that "button" for you with programmed precision. Thus, you get the fastest shift time possible in the game without having to do the work the game requires for such a shift time. Therefore, any time you post to a leaderboard with ACL, or any multiplayer race you participate in with ACL, you are cheating.
So, in your opinion, is using the ABS rumble, or changing pedal deadzones or travel length, or changing wheel DOR, or even reducing FFB so you can react quicker cheating ?
If it's an option in the game, then it should be available to everyone. It's only Forza we're talking about here. Why should anyone that uses a clutch pedal in a car with paddle shifters be quicker than someone using the paddle shifters, which should be the fastest option.
Pretty much every single one of those settings is available in-game for all players regardless of their chosen input method. In fact, my argument is exactly "If it's an option in the game, then it should be available to everyone." The ACL feature on a wheel completely changes an in-game option and mechanic.
I use paddles for shifting, at least I do when I have a wheel (tomorrow! finally!). I tried out ACL in FM4 with my CSR-E some years ago and immediately recognized the large advantage it gives over just using the full manual game option -- and I immediately decided not to use it. For good or ill, Forza has three shifting models that have a built-in advantages and disadvantages. The result of which is that to use paddle shifting you should be using the middle tier model -- manual without clutch. The game is going to reduce the possible shift time because of that, but it's the only way to do it without actually cheating with an ACL feature.
You do realize that real cars with paddle shifters and proper DSG transmissions shift faster than any manual car out there right? Which is also why the ACL makes it realistic.
You do realize that real cars with paddle shifters and proper DSG transmissions shift faster than any manual car out there right? Which is also why the ACL makes it realistic.
What don't you understand about my post? I specifically wrote about ACL in context of the environment set forth by Forza Motorsport the game. This isn't about what real cars do with regard to their transmissions. This is about how Forza Motorsport simulates those transmissions, the options it provides for doing so, and how a feature external to the game completely changes that simulation.
You do realize that real cars with paddle shifters and proper DSG transmissions shift faster than any manual car out there right? Which is also why the ACL makes it realistic.
What don't you understand about my post? I specifically wrote about ACL in context of the environment set forth by Forza Motorsport the game. This isn't about what real cars do with regard to their transmissions. This is about how Forza Motorsport simulates those transmissions, the options it provides for doing so, and how a feature external to the game completely changes that simulation.
That is incorrect though, the game does not give you that option. The game gives you an option of Normal, Fast, and Fastest which is with clutch. Do you know how stupid it feels shifting with the paddle shifters while pushing in the clutch like a retard? When real cars don't do that which is what we are trying to experience in a sense. Just release the ACL and let guys like this dude turn the function off.
I updated my firmware to the latest version. I now have light feedback with it set to auto. It is much, much better at all settings. However, LSB and RSB are still useless.
And now I have a new issue. If I reboot my wheel, it no longer goes into Xbox One mode. It gives me a full red circle around the start button, showing it is in PC mode. But it's not in PC mode, it is not recognized, and no inputs do anything. I can't even bring up the settings menus, or even turn it off. I have to unplug the power supply for 30 seconds for it to return to functioning normally. Help?
With latest firmware...you mean fw 116 out of diver version 226? They're beta drivers and firmware...so.. That's a new one...try updating your wheel again. If that still gives same affect, contact support and discribe EXACTLY how and when it happens with what firmware on the wheel and if you've got them...on the V3 pedals, so the tech guys can try andreproduce it.
Me too...LoL
This is the normal sound when you the switch a gear in Forza. I've looked at now almost 10 videos of different drivers and it sounds absolutely identical. I think there ist also in the full game no damage in the telemetry.
When I use my SQ shifter and clutch in the GT86 I don't hear anything grinding...
This is the normal sound when you the switch a gear in Forza. I've looked at now almost 10 videos of different drivers and it sounds absolutely identical. I think there ist also in the full game no damage in the telemetry.
When I use my SQ shifter and clutch in the GT86 I don't hear anything grinding...
When you drive there is no grinding, but look at the replay.....there is this typical Sound.
Hello to all my Fanatec fanatics. We are getting off topic with the auto-clutch discussion. Please start a off thread discussion if you'd like to discuss further. People coming here for info are forced read post after post on AC. Keep up the good feedback and THANK YOU to all who have been aiding their fellow sim racer work through issues. Back to the track!
Hello to all my Fanatec fanatics. We are getting off topic with the auto-clutch discussion. Please start a off thread discussion if you'd like to discuss further. People coming here for info are forced read post after post on AC. Keep up the good feedback and THANK YOU to all who have been aiding their fellow sim racer work through issues. Back to the track!
The problem of course is that people can't start threads themselves so they need to pick an existing thread, and chances are very high that no existing threads is about this particular topic
Hello to all my Fanatec fanatics. We are getting off topic with the auto-clutch discussion. Please start a off thread discussion if you'd like to discuss further. People coming here for info are forced read post after post on AC. Keep up the good feedback and THANK YOU to all who have been aiding their fellow sim racer work through issues. Back to the track!
The problem of course is that people can't start threads themselves so they need to pick an existing thread, and chances are very high that no existing threads is about this particular topic
Hello everyone, first time posting here and I know this thread isn't to do with what im asking but yeah, +1 for forum expansion
I have a CSR wheel used only on the PC and I'm currently using Firmware rev. 756 and the 64bit v205 Driver on Windows 7 64bit.
I've noticed on the CSR downloads page theres a new driver available which is v226 Beta.
Just wondering if anyone is currently using these new drivers on PC with a CSR wheel and how long drivers are usually in the Beta stage as I'm hesitant to upgrade until they're classed as stable.
Assetto Corsa and rFactor 2 take up most my playtime. Anybody had any problems with the v226 Beta drivers on a CSR wheel in these sims?
Hello to all my Fanatec fanatics. We are getting off topic with the auto-clutch discussion. Please start a off thread discussion if you'd like to discuss further. People coming here for info are forced read post after post on AC. Keep up the good feedback and THANK YOU to all who have been aiding their fellow sim racer work through issues. Back to the track!
The problem of course is that people can't start threads themselves so they need to pick an existing thread, and chances are very high that no existing threads is about this particular topic
100% agree, time to expand the forum.
Not forum expansion...CHANGE BLOG into a Forum....Chris...Pleaseeee...LoL
I seem to have a small issue with the CSW V2 + XO Hub, just normal paddle shifters, no external shifters + original clubsport pedals.
Driver 226 Beta / Firmware 116 - In Forza Horizon 2 and Forza 6, using manual tranmission option, on the race start, the car is in first gear, the countdown does it's 3-2-1 sequence, then the car instantly goes into neutral and sits there revving, I have to always manually select first gear just as the countdown finishes..
With Driver 219 / Firmware 094 it works as expected, and launches in first with no intervention.
Is this a known issue with the newer beta firmwares?
I seem to have a small issue with the CSW V2 + XO Hub, just normal paddle shifters, no external shifters + original clubsport pedals.
Driver 226 Beta / Firmware 116 - In Forza Horizon 2 and Forza 6, using manual tranmission option, on the race start, the car is in first gear, the countdown does it's 3-2-1 sequence, then the car instantly goes into neutral and sits there revving, I have to always manually select first gear just as the countdown finishes..
With Driver 219 / Firmware 094 it works as expected, and launches in first with no intervention.
Is this a known issue with the newer beta firmwares?
I also get that, I though it was strange, didn't know it worked fine on older firmware.
Hello to all my Fanatec fanatics. We are getting off topic with the auto-clutch discussion. Please start a off thread discussion if you'd like to discuss further. People coming here for info are forced read post after post on AC. Keep up the good feedback and THANK YOU to all who have been aiding their fellow sim racer work through issues. Back to the track!
The problem of course is that people can't start threads themselves so they need to pick an existing thread, and chances are very high that no existing threads is about this particular topic
Until we are able to start new threads you can go to the "activity" tab and post there. Anyone can read and comment. Some of you have already been using that option. Thanks!
I think it feels ok Remember it wipes all your settings after you restart the demo each time (which is a pain) so you have to setup your wheel, settings, calibration and assist every single time you launch the game, reset the game, restart the game etc.. A real silly design move on their part?
I set all dead zone to 0 and 100 Wheel rotation to 900 FFB 100 Vibration 100 All driving aids off (except traction control "on" occasion) Steering to simulation
Wheel settings Sens aut FFB Aut
And I run bonnet cam as the fov is a little off for me.
I think it feels great, so much fun, the sense of speed is incredible and the FFB is not a jerky as PCars but it's smooth and detailed enough to satisfy me. I feel the front end loose traction, I get a lot of weight through the wheel and overall I like it. It does appear to be a little "dead" in the center again, but other than that I can live with it.
I had more "fun" on that demo in the last week, than I did with PCars in the last 3 months
In full game the feel of FFB IS different. But be sure to set your WHEEL FFB to AUTO!!! Somehow, also in PCars the wheel ffb @100 feels like a wrong amplifier...the auto functionality gives way more feel. But in PCars the ffb is way better!!!
In full game the feel of FFB IS different. But be sure to set your WHEEL FFB to AUTO!!! Somehow, also in PCars the wheel ffb @100 feels like a wrong amplifier...the auto functionality gives way more feel. But in PCars the ffb is way better!!!
Yea I agree PCars FFB is better.. But look at how long, how much effort was required to get there, it nearly killed Grimey
Absolutely, it's not flawless, it feels good enough to just "plug in and play" though, and allows you to enjoy 20 minutes here and there if you want/need too
Drivers 222 & 226 have bricked my base. I have the Xbox One hub attached. When I boot it up, I get a solid red ring around the start button, the fans are on full blast, and every single button is unresponsive. The only way to turn it back off is to cut the power.
Did you try Re-flashing the wheel??? i would Re_start the PC... Un-install the driver and restart the PC.... Then i would Re-instal driver 222... (it has always worked fine for me) then try Re-Flashing the wheel.... First Make sure the USB cable is plugged snugly into the WHEEL BASE ( that's the 1 connection that always goes un-checked the most) then Plug into PC and try to Re-Flash the wheel.
In full game the feel of FFB IS different. But be sure to set your WHEEL FFB to AUTO!!! Somehow, also in PCars the wheel ffb @100 feels like a wrong amplifier...the auto functionality gives way more feel. But in PCars the ffb is way better!!!
Yea I agree PCars FFB is better.. But look at how long, how much effort was required to get there, it nearly killed Grimey
LOL " it nearly killed Grimey " it was a Good thing though it put me back in Tweeker mode... I Love Tweeking!!! I Had a few Books of FM2,3,& 4 Tweeks!!!
FM6 FFB has to be Really GOOD!!! It only took me 150+Hrs But i Have my PS4 PCars Dialed in to the point of Near Perfection for Me... Ive even tried tweeking with it and Nothing makes it feel Better it always gets worse!!!
There is No Calculator that can Give you the #'s for Good FFB...Ive tried dividing the settings that work together so that they are on the same # Scale so when they interact + or - that the # are Divisible and the end result would be 0 with 0 remainder....NOPE NO GOOD... it all has to be done by feel/Trial and error.
I Have the FM6 Demo and have not tried it yet with the TX on XB1... yup wheel and pedals are Hooked up on my Sons set up but i just cant Tear my Self away from PCars to try it. LOL
Edit: also using my FFB Tweek with PS4 PCars my wheel Temp only gets to 105*F / 40*C and that is a huge improvement!!! During the Tweeking process My Wheel Ran as Hot as 130*F /54*C .... Yup Ive been using a Digital Infrared Thermometer to monitor it...Exactly doesn't every on have one of those? LOL... If not better get 1 its a great investment $35.00 US it can be used for alot of things... i use it to check the oil temp when i fry the thanksgiving turkey..LOL... No contact just point it at a heat source and read the temp :-B
Comments
This is the normal sound when you the switch a gear in Forza. I've looked at now almost 10 videos of different drivers and it sounds absolutely identical. I think there ist also in the full game no damage in the telemetry.
That's a new one...try updating your wheel again. If that still gives same affect, contact support and discribe EXACTLY how and when it happens with what firmware on the wheel and if you've got them...on the V3 pedals, so the tech guys can try andreproduce it. When I use my SQ shifter and clutch in the GT86 I don't hear anything grinding...
Antoine,
I only see fw 110 with driver 222, the one that is in the OP. Where are you seeing 116/226?
When you drive there is no grinding, but look at the replay.....there is this typical Sound.
I have a CSR wheel used only on the PC and I'm currently using Firmware rev. 756 and the 64bit v205 Driver on Windows 7 64bit.
I've noticed on the CSR downloads page theres a new driver available which is v226 Beta.
Just wondering if anyone is currently using these new drivers on PC with a CSR wheel and how long drivers are usually in the Beta stage as I'm hesitant to upgrade until they're classed as stable.
Assetto Corsa and rFactor 2 take up most my playtime. Anybody had any problems with the v226 Beta drivers on a CSR wheel in these sims?
With Driver 219 / Firmware 094 it works as expected, and launches in first with no intervention.
Remember it wipes all your settings after you restart the demo each time (which is a pain) so you have to setup your wheel, settings, calibration and assist every single time you launch the game, reset the game, restart the game etc.. A real silly design move on their part?
I set all dead zone to 0 and 100
Wheel rotation to 900
FFB 100
Vibration 100
All driving aids off (except traction control "on" occasion)
Steering to simulation
Wheel settings
Sens aut
FFB Aut
And I run bonnet cam as the fov is a little off for me.
I think it feels great, so much fun, the sense of speed is incredible and the FFB is not a jerky as PCars but it's smooth and detailed enough to satisfy me. I feel the front end loose traction, I get a lot of weight through the wheel and overall I like it. It does appear to be a little "dead" in the center again, but other than that I can live with it.
I had more "fun" on that demo in the last week, than I did with PCars in the last 3 months
But in PCars the ffb is way better!!!
Yea I agree PCars FFB is better.. But look at how long, how much effort was required to get there, it nearly killed Grimey
i would Re_start the PC... Un-install the driver and restart the PC.... Then i would Re-instal driver 222... (it has always worked fine for me) then try Re-Flashing the wheel.... First Make sure the USB cable is plugged snugly into the WHEEL BASE ( that's the 1 connection that always goes un-checked the most) then Plug into PC and try to Re-Flash the wheel.
Edit: Also make sure the Rim is Snapped Fully on.
FM6 FFB has to be Really GOOD!!! It only took me 150+Hrs But i Have my PS4 PCars Dialed in to the point of Near Perfection for Me... Ive even tried tweeking with it and Nothing makes it feel Better it always gets worse!!!
There is No Calculator that can Give you the #'s for Good FFB...Ive tried dividing the settings that work together so that they are on the same # Scale so when they interact + or - that the # are Divisible and the end result would be 0 with 0 remainder....NOPE NO GOOD... it all has to be done by feel/Trial and error.
I Have the FM6 Demo and have not tried it yet with the TX on XB1... yup wheel and pedals are Hooked up on my Sons set up but i just cant Tear my Self away from PCars to try it. LOL
Edit: also using my FFB Tweek with PS4 PCars my wheel Temp only gets to 105*F / 40*C and that is a huge improvement!!! During the Tweeking process My Wheel Ran as Hot as 130*F /54*C .... Yup Ive been using a Digital Infrared Thermometer to monitor it...Exactly doesn't every on have one of those? LOL... If not better get 1 its a great investment $35.00 US it can be used for alot of things... i use it to check the oil temp when i fry the thanksgiving turkey..LOL... No contact just point it at a heat source and read the temp
:-B