Fanatec Driver 380 Release Candidate for CSL, CSW and Podium Bases (all wheels)



  • So, I've updated to this driver with my DD2 and now it's saying I need to update the wireless quick release firmware, I'm at 5, update wheel base firmware, I'm at 679 and wheel base motor firmware, I'm at 38 but as soon as I click on any of the update buttons it opens a box that says press to connect. I press the button and instantly get the same error message saying it can't connect. It will sit a minute and then say connected but get the windows tone that it's been disconnected and it disappears from the wheel properties page. The wheel is still powered on but no displays etc. and certainly no update. do I need to go back to an older update and go in order? Did I jump too far ahead? help please.

    • Wheel Base Model (product ID): ... DD2
    • Steering Wheel Model (product ID): .... Podium Porsche Wheel
    • Driver Version: .... 380
    • Base FW Version: .... 679
    • Motor FW Version: .... 38
    • Wheel FW Version: .... 8
    • FanaLab Version: .... 1.51

  • Hi Lars, 

    yes it is terrible and not drivable with F1 2020 and I had to switch to an old driver. 

    Fanatec here is a suggested solution: It should be adjustable how sensitive the thumb encoders react. 1 click, 2 clicks, 3 clicks to trigger a reaction.

    Even easier: Arming back to the old sensitivity.

  • you can not adjust sensitivity of the thumb encoders on a console which doesnt have a driver interface - yet its even not possible on PC.

    Its a known issue that the thumb encoders are broken on PS4 actually and its hopefully fixed soon.

  • Hi, i've been reporting issues with the 373 and 380 drivers with my F1 PS4 Podium wheel and pedal set.

    Everything worked fine with 365 but as I and others have reported 373 and 380 caused the button box , paddles and display to periodically turn off when being used. Happens at random times.

    Not got a lot of response here, so I dug in with some experiments. What i've found is that I can run 380 drivers and updated firmware for the entire set successfully apart from the Clubsport F1 v2 wheel firmware.

    If I level the wheel firmware at v34 (from the 365 distro) and not update to the v37 that comes with 373 / 380 - everything works fine.

    SO it would seem like there is a problem between v34 and v37 that is causing the wheel connectivity dropouts.

  • I can confirm this. I have the same issues with jolts randomly happening during playing on PC and Playstation.

    I always use the default screen with the Fanatec logo on my DD1 wheelbase. I reduced the FEI settings to around

    60-70 so that I don't get too frightened, everytime it happens... The first time, it realy scared me to death....

  • Jorge GomesJorge Gomes Member
    edited November 2020

    Hi Marcel, i'll try downgrade and test. Do you prefer i test with v346 or v347 (there are the v365 too)? i found that 3 ones before v373 and doubt wich is better to test.



  • Hi all, since this update i've very very low rumble on my CSP V3 pédals , is connected to my CSL Elite base +

    any idea to change that ?

    many thx !

  • I have an issue with my CSW 2.5, i have tried ACC using the ACC dev recommended settings and also Fanatec's and i still have this issue.

    I'm using a V2 F1 2020 Limited Edition wheel and i feel some rattling effect on the quick release, specially on the straights with for example the Lamborghini ST. This feeling isn't there with the Ferrari (except in some corners, but lightly) what could it be? it seems to be related to the Force Effect Intensity but i see everyone has it at 100% so what could it be

  • It is INT and FEI.

    It's an effect I hatte and therefore use INT 3 with FEI 80 which completely eliminates it.

    Also by far not everyone has FEI at 100, in fact inly a few run FEI at 100, most use 80.

  • Any news about Formula wheel V2 last update?

    Since I updated it, the thumb encoders doesn't work as we want (you need to move/change the thumb encoders for, maybe 10 times and then the PS4 detect it) and on the other hand, left side changed to right and right to left. It's quite disturbing because the steering wheel worked really well with V36.


  • edited November 2020

    It's a known issue and it's being worked on.

    In the meantime downgrade back to the old firmware until the new firmware is ready.

  • Hello, I am using the fanatec csl elite licensed for ps4 and the clubsport v3 pedals inverted with th 373 drivers, I would like you to tell me if the new 380 driver works fine on the wheel and my pedals and also if there is actually an important change from 373 to 380 driver. Thanks a lot and appreciate it!!

  • You can find the Changelog in the first post of this thread. With that it's best to judge for yourself if it's worth the update but yes it will definitely work fine and has improvements.

  • Thanks a lot Maurice, I think that I have to delete everything about Fanatec and FanaLab and reinstall them right??

  • Most likely that's the Anti Cogging Filter which was always there. Nothing was changed in that regard so it's normal to feel slight buzzing/vibrations but you won't notice it in game.

  • Thanks for the answer, I was just little worried that it could damage the vibration motors since it keeps it running all the time.

    Honestly I don't remember that it was already there previously (it is one month that I don't use it, so maybe I don't recall correctly), I mean maybe it was lower. Anyway it is not annoying, it was just more a little paranoia about that it could damager my wheels vibration motors 😊

  • What you feel are certainly not the vibration motors but vibrations coming directly from the motor.

    If it would be the vibration motors it would not be normal and you would need to contact the support but you would feel if it would be the vibration motors for sure when you compat the vibrations you feel with what you feel during the vibration test in the driver.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    We'll take a look at it again, we thought it was solved by one of the last updates.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator
    edited November 2020

    Can you try

    1. different USB port
    2. running the repair function of the driver while the device is plugged in and running
    3. another PC if available
    4. send a screenshot and the logs located in C:\Users\Public\Fanatec Logs
  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    Thanks for this report, this should help is in finding the issue.

  • Marcel PfisterMarcel Pfister Member, Administrator

    ACC generates a vibration effect when the front tires are slipping, this can sometimes be exaggerated with some cars or caster settings. You can try to lower caster in the car setup and see if it affects the vibration. Could also be that Kunos needs to turn this affect down a bit for some cars again like before with the Porsche.

  • Hi all,

    it's "Oldie Testing Time": not just that I'm 65 years old but the wheelbase I use is 1.5 with Formula Black on it. Wasn't unhappy with my old config; bearing in mind that it's an old belt driven version, ffb is far away from dd1. But as I found the remark that even oldies should work with this new version 380, I gave it a try. Upgrade worked like a charm but unfortunately anything in the wheelbase doesn't stop working even if'm just pitting. So I decided going back (downgrading) the driver and in the 2nd step the firmware to 626. But whatever driver and/or firmware I install, the ffb is close to 0 in AC and ACC. Ffb in the property page of the wheel is strong but very weak in the games.

    I remember that there was a firmware version where it was possible to "overdrive" ffb and other parameters to 400.

    Need advice: which version of driver /firmware is optimal for my oldie and does anybody know the "power version"?

    Many Thx!

    Jens from Hamburg

  • Just popped of: I think the firmware with levels >120 was tuuned by Maurice???

  • Hello guys, I would like to ask you something. I just updated my fanatec to driver 380 and when my wheel calibrated after the update it just stuck in this position and not in the center. What I should do?? Thans a lot

  • edited November 2020

    The Display Tells you what it wants. It wants to be CALibrated. How to do is explained in the manual and Quick Guide (going into Tuning Menu and then Press both Joysticks at the same time when wheel is centered)

  • Tom HallumsTom Hallums Member
    edited November 2020

    DD1 - I tried 380 when it came out, the FFB felt different from 373 on iRacing, with same settings. The road surface on Monza was extra bumpy/noisy, so am still on 373 for now. I have still had jolts in game with 373. Is rare, but I have the base FFB at 100% so has the force of a crash, but still on track. Have never been off the Fanatec screen (I don't even know the button combo anymore).

  • Thanks Marcel. In answer to your previous question, on V22 I can reproduce it each time I play either AC or ACC (they're the only two games I play im afraid). It's always fine on power-up and then occurs sometime during the race. It's hard to feel while other FFB is going on, so I only then notice when I go back to windows. A power cycle of the base then puts it back to normal. Appreciate you looking into it. V20 doesn't seem to do it (I never got round to testing V18 as I heard about the coil whine issue).

This discussion has been closed.