I’m getting a horrible notchy feeling with my CSL elite PS4 just off centre while playing ACC (on PC). I’ve read many a forum thread about this and it seems to be a specific issue with driver 381 (which I’m running as 402 is bugged for the CSL elite) and ACC.
People who have gone back to driver 346 have resolved the issue. But this is such an old driver now, and as far as I can tell, as I use the McLaren V2 rim, I need to have driver 381 for the wheel to be compatible with the base? Is this correct?
As I said, my steering wheel is also self-sufficient. For this reason, I created a BAT file that monitors the Device Manager. As soon as the steering wheel spins, I reconnect the steering wheel using the command "pnputil /restart-device "ROOT-FANATEC_GAMING_DEVICES-0000". My FPS drops while driving have also disappeared since then
Is it possible to release an update for the UNIVERSAL HUB to avoid switching to XBOX mode? Is arg annoying in the middle of the nordschöleife to lose the steering wheel because it switches to XBOX mode
I got a new high-quality USB A to B cable and did what I could to separate it from any potential nearby EMI, but I still had the torque key warning message pop up twice in my race yesterday.
Again, that's the only symptom- I don't even feel much of a change to be honest (I must not have the torque set that high). It's only when I happen to glance down at my wheel that I see the problem.
I tried to manually reproduce this state to figure out what might be potentially disconnecting, and I learned a few things that might be clues for the Fanatec folks:
If I disconnect the wheel from the base and re-attach, I get a "Enable torque?" message. This is different from what I see, so I don't think the wheel is disconnecting.
If I detach and reattach the USB cable the wheel base state doesn't change, so I don't think this is a USB disconnect issue (plus, if it was, I'd expect to notice a momentary loss of steering, which I don't).
If I detach/reattach the USB-C cable connecting the BME module to the Podium hub I get a totally different failure mode where the BME is non-operational. To recover I have to completely restart the wheel base. So I don't think this is the connection problem, either.
If I take the TORQUE KEY out and reinsert it, I get the EXACT same behavior.
Out of those 4 connection points, only #4 reproduces the error state I'm seeing.
Therefore by deduction I think it's fair to say that this is a software/firmware problem, or the torque key is actually coming loose. I've taken it out and reinserted it- it seems fine to me (nice and snug). So it's difficult to believe that this it the problem. My DD1 is also firmly mounted to my P1-X aluminum profile rig, so it's not like there's a lot of shaking going on (though there is vibration of course).
Other than this latest revelation I'm still pretty stumped on this. Only thing to try next maybe is to roll back my firmware from v402.
The later bit of the video is slowed down, in case that's useful.
Another wrinkle I noticed- when the Torque Key Inserted warning message pops up, it ONLY appears on the BME OLED- NOT the DD1's OLED, which I thought was interesting.
By looking at the video, it seemed to occur right in the middle of a TC event, with the wheel rotated 180 degrees. I think this is usually the case when it's happens (a lot of activity on the wheel and the display).
This is interesting- Maurice, is there any chance that what I'm seeing (Torque key warning randomly re-appearing) is a FW/driver issue with v402? It's beta of course so issues are expected- I'm just wondering if I should be submitting a ticket to support for a potential HW issue or not.
If it's a suspected FW/driver bug, I'm fine waiting for the next update (or reverting to v381). Really just hoping for some peace of mind here.
The only reason I even looked at the "updated" driver was to increase the range of the brake pedal, as from new I've only ever been able to set the brake at 50% no matter which elastomer spring arrangement I use.... Now I cant even connect to the LC USB Adapter and have no wheel base to connect to either - anyone know of a way to "reset" the USB adapter so I can flash it back to connect to the pedals?
I have exact the same issue with the CSL Elite wheelbase. At first I thought my wheelbase was broken, but then I reverted back to (very) old firmware package V311 and the wheel is buttery smooth again. Could the problem be with the motorfirmware? The current firmware package has FW22 and with V311 the motorfirmware is FW18. I also have the McLaren V2 wheel, which I cannot use currently with the older V311 firmware package. Please fix the notchy feeling with the current 402 firmware package Fanatec.
you can stay on the motor FW18 and only update the other FWs, but I wouldn't use driver 402 with a CSL Elite base anyway, because of the SEN issue. go with driver 381 for now and simply don't update the motor FW.
you wanted to mix different FWs from different drivers and yet use the newer driver, I wouldn't use an older base FW with a newer driver and newer firmwares for wheel and motor etc. So nothing has changed.
I suggested Bart to stay on the motor FW18 and update everything else which is included in driver 381.
Thank you for the suggestion. But sadly, the problem does not go away when I install everything from driver 381 but the with the motor firmware FW18. I even tried to do the same with 373 and 346, but the notchy feel around the center when I steer from left tot right or from right to left, almost like it's broken, keeps existing. My guess is that it's not the motorfirmware but the base firmware. For now I just reverted to V311 again but the sad part is that now I cannot use my McLaren V2 wheel anymore, that is if and until Fanatec fixes this issue. Does anybody know a way how to still use the McLaren V2 wheel with say V311?
Thank you. That's a shame for such a good wheel not to be used then. But no, I haven't tried changing the DPR because older firmware use the same setting for DPR and the problem does not exist with V311. With notchy I don't mean choppy clunky steering all the time like using a gear driven FFB wheel. I mean I feel a notch when I quickly steer from left to right or the other way around. Like the shaft comes loose for a millisecond inside the steering house. But it really isn't, because with V311 everything is tight again. The issue only occurs when powered on and in game (GT Sport, ACC or F1 on PS4). When powered off, everything feels smooth again. I hope you understand what I mean with this explanation.
Okay, so my troubleshooting skills are not the best. Today I tested everything again. The problem only occurs with the McLaren GT V2 wheel, not with the P1. I use the fiberglass QR thing, and that's where I think the problem lays. Here we go again, raising a ticket for yet another McLaren wheel (also had the V1).
I came to this conclusion by installing driver package 328 (which recognizes the McLaren wheel) and testing back and forth with both rims (McLaren V2 and P1). Where the P1 feels tight around the shaft consistently, the McLaren V2 doesn't. When I quickly steer from left to right or right to left, I feel this notch, a tiny slip around the wheelshaft. Could this be solved by something simple like changing the O ring on the wheelshaft? Maybe @Marcel Pfister can answer this question or anyone from Fanatec before I raise a ticket?
For anyone reading this. Do not attempt to update your Clubsport V3 pedal firmware for the LC improvements!
There is a chance it will brick the PCB and Fanatec will NOT replace it. You need to purchase a new PCB from them. Support takes over a week to respond!
Comments
only the wheel is disconnecting, i know its not nornal what i was asking is if its a known issue with this update or no.
In need of some advice.
I’m getting a horrible notchy feeling with my CSL elite PS4 just off centre while playing ACC (on PC). I’ve read many a forum thread about this and it seems to be a specific issue with driver 381 (which I’m running as 402 is bugged for the CSL elite) and ACC.
People who have gone back to driver 346 have resolved the issue. But this is such an old driver now, and as far as I can tell, as I use the McLaren V2 rim, I need to have driver 381 for the wheel to be compatible with the base? Is this correct?
did you dettach and reattach the wheel yet? is the QR properly tighten?
yea did that so many times still same issue, in the middle of a race it disconnects or i lose the torque
As I said, my steering wheel is also self-sufficient. For this reason, I created a BAT file that monitors the Device Manager. As soon as the steering wheel spins, I reconnect the steering wheel using the command "pnputil /restart-device "ROOT-FANATEC_GAMING_DEVICES-0000". My FPS drops while driving have also disappeared since then
Is it possible to release an update for the UNIVERSAL HUB to avoid switching to XBOX mode? Is arg annoying in the middle of the nordschöleife to lose the steering wheel because it switches to XBOX mode
I got a new high-quality USB A to B cable and did what I could to separate it from any potential nearby EMI, but I still had the torque key warning message pop up twice in my race yesterday.
Again, that's the only symptom- I don't even feel much of a change to be honest (I must not have the torque set that high). It's only when I happen to glance down at my wheel that I see the problem.
I tried to manually reproduce this state to figure out what might be potentially disconnecting, and I learned a few things that might be clues for the Fanatec folks:
Out of those 4 connection points, only #4 reproduces the error state I'm seeing.
Therefore by deduction I think it's fair to say that this is a software/firmware problem, or the torque key is actually coming loose. I've taken it out and reinserted it- it seems fine to me (nice and snug). So it's difficult to believe that this it the problem. My DD1 is also firmly mounted to my P1-X aluminum profile rig, so it's not like there's a lot of shaking going on (though there is vibration of course).
Other than this latest revelation I'm still pretty stumped on this. Only thing to try next maybe is to roll back my firmware from v402.
I decided to capture this erroneous "CAUTION! Torque Key Inserted" event on VIDEO: https://streamable.com/baxgz7
The later bit of the video is slowed down, in case that's useful.
Another wrinkle I noticed- when the Torque Key Inserted warning message pops up, it ONLY appears on the BME OLED- NOT the DD1's OLED, which I thought was interesting.
By looking at the video, it seemed to occur right in the middle of a TC event, with the wheel rotated 180 degrees. I think this is usually the case when it's happens (a lot of activity on the wheel and the display).
The more interesting part is that this message upon start up on mine is never showing on the PBME and only on the DD display. 🤔
And I never had an issue.
The start-up message is a new feature for the BME and onmly available when you are on the latest driver 402 with latest firmware 684/5/17.
have you upgraded to this driver? your PBME should now mirror all messages - quoted from the changeling -
Button Module Endurance
You may not have completed all firmware upgrades correctly if you are not seeing these messages.
(for some reason my last message didn't go through, so apologies if this winds up being redundant)
This is interesting- Maurice, is there any chance that what I'm seeing (Torque key warning randomly re-appearing) is a FW/driver issue with v402? It's beta of course so issues are expected- I'm just wondering if I should be submitting a ticket to support for a potential HW issue or not.
If it's a suspected FW/driver bug, I'm fine waiting for the next update (or reverting to v381). Really just hoping for some peace of mind here.
I unplugged my CSP V3 from the base, connected via USB, and tried to upgrade the pedal firmware. It said it failed and now my pedals are bricked!
How can I recover my pedals? No response no matter what USB port I plug them into.
Hi Marcel,
The only reason I even looked at the "updated" driver was to increase the range of the brake pedal, as from new I've only ever been able to set the brake at 50% no matter which elastomer spring arrangement I use.... Now I cant even connect to the LC USB Adapter and have no wheel base to connect to either - anyone know of a way to "reset" the USB adapter so I can flash it back to connect to the pedals?
I only have the CSL Elite Pedals + LC.
Regards TT
I gone back to 373 but I am using a PS4 & formula V2 wheel.
Fanatec CSL Elite PS4
Wheel Base Firmware 684
Motor Firmware 22
Handbrake meter in the property page appears always as half-pressed:
I don't have any handbrake connected to the wheel base. Never had.
This appeared for the first time when I updated to the 400 drivers and now with 402 keeps happening.
How can I fix this??
I have exact the same issue with the CSL Elite wheelbase. At first I thought my wheelbase was broken, but then I reverted back to (very) old firmware package V311 and the wheel is buttery smooth again. Could the problem be with the motorfirmware? The current firmware package has FW22 and with V311 the motorfirmware is FW18. I also have the McLaren V2 wheel, which I cannot use currently with the older V311 firmware package. Please fix the notchy feeling with the current 402 firmware package Fanatec.
you can stay on the motor FW18 and only update the other FWs, but I wouldn't use driver 402 with a CSL Elite base anyway, because of the SEN issue. go with driver 381 for now and simply don't update the motor FW.
Wait a second when I said is it ok to mix the update you told me no I would have problems.
How is it now you are saying you can?
You have just told this person that's it's ok.
The same things you said this person can do is what I said I was try & you said it will give me problems.
So can you clarify! What can & cannot be done.
Read comments on march 4th.
you wanted to mix different FWs from different drivers and yet use the newer driver, I wouldn't use an older base FW with a newer driver and newer firmwares for wheel and motor etc. So nothing has changed.
I suggested Bart to stay on the motor FW18 and update everything else which is included in driver 381.
Thank you for the suggestion. But sadly, the problem does not go away when I install everything from driver 381 but the with the motor firmware FW18. I even tried to do the same with 373 and 346, but the notchy feel around the center when I steer from left tot right or from right to left, almost like it's broken, keeps existing. My guess is that it's not the motorfirmware but the base firmware. For now I just reverted to V311 again but the sad part is that now I cannot use my McLaren V2 wheel anymore, that is if and until Fanatec fixes this issue. Does anybody know a way how to still use the McLaren V2 wheel with say V311?
there is no way to use the McLaren v2 with a 3 or 4 year old driver.
Did you tried reducing DPR to OFF? This setting can also cause a very notchy steering.
Thank you. That's a shame for such a good wheel not to be used then. But no, I haven't tried changing the DPR because older firmware use the same setting for DPR and the problem does not exist with V311. With notchy I don't mean choppy clunky steering all the time like using a gear driven FFB wheel. I mean I feel a notch when I quickly steer from left to right or the other way around. Like the shaft comes loose for a millisecond inside the steering house. But it really isn't, because with V311 everything is tight again. The issue only occurs when powered on and in game (GT Sport, ACC or F1 on PS4). When powered off, everything feels smooth again. I hope you understand what I mean with this explanation.
Have you tested if there is a notch with the latest driver and steering wheel other than McLaren V2?
Yes. I forgot to mention it, but unfortunately this also happens with the basic CSL Elite wheel the P1.
Thanks. :)
Okay, so my troubleshooting skills are not the best. Today I tested everything again. The problem only occurs with the McLaren GT V2 wheel, not with the P1. I use the fiberglass QR thing, and that's where I think the problem lays. Here we go again, raising a ticket for yet another McLaren wheel (also had the V1).
I came to this conclusion by installing driver package 328 (which recognizes the McLaren wheel) and testing back and forth with both rims (McLaren V2 and P1). Where the P1 feels tight around the shaft consistently, the McLaren V2 doesn't. When I quickly steer from left to right or right to left, I feel this notch, a tiny slip around the wheelshaft. Could this be solved by something simple like changing the O ring on the wheelshaft? Maybe @Marcel Pfister can answer this question or anyone from Fanatec before I raise a ticket?
Could this be solved by something simple like changing the O ring on the wheelshaft?
No.
It is best to contact Fanatec support.
You can try reinstall driver ,then restart computer
This is a copy & paste of what I said.
"Let me make it clear for you.
You can use say firmware 373 for the base & then only update the wheel with say firmware 400."
& This is what you said
"I suggested Bart to stay on the motor FW18 and update everything else which is included in driver 381."
I didn't say use 373 for base use 380 motor & 381 for wheel.
For anyone reading this. Do not attempt to update your Clubsport V3 pedal firmware for the LC improvements!
There is a chance it will brick the PCB and Fanatec will NOT replace it. You need to purchase a new PCB from them. Support takes over a week to respond!