Ok thank you what a pity
Hi, I've recently bought ACC and a GT DD Pro, but in ACC on PC the rev LEDs and the display aren't working, I tried the led settings in fanalab but I can't get it to work.
In Fanalab you need to click on the two green buttons in Game Profile Tab, they explain what you have to do in game to get everything running.
Thanks! I'll try that!
Hi, do the recommended settings still work with 1.8 update ?
what are you current settings?
Good evening, after I updated to driver 436, ACC got me the CPU 99% issue and frozes totally, either MP or single, just after 1st corner/few seconds of racing. Tried to down the frequency of FFB from 400Hz to lower ones as sugested somewhere, but it only just gave a few more seconds before freezing...
The only solution was to go back to the previous driver version i had, v.356 ,and now ACC plays fine as before. The firmware's are all up to date : Wheel-691, Motor-42 and Steering Wheel -44 (podium DD1 w/ Formula V2).
Any ideas why this happens? Is something wiyh my system, maybe the USB ports in the motherboard not up to date...?!? (ASUS - Maximus Hero Alpha - never updated its bios/firmware, didnt need -> "if it aint broken, dont fix it" spirit ehe...)
Best regards, JP Miranda
Reading your issues they sound like what i'm experiencing after 1.8.11 update. I hope its as easy as reinstalling.
My FFB seems to have less strength and the details for the edge of the track / kirbs are either muted or no longer there (I thought they changed something in the update), annoyingly.
Some quick question about CSL DD recommend settings for ACC:
1- The in-game "Gain" value is set to 70. That's for standard or boost kit CSL DD? I mean, does 5Nm and 8Nm wheels should have different Gain setting to prevent clipping?
2- In a CSL DD + Boost kit, we've been said that Linear mode changes max torque from 8Nm to 6Nm. So, should Gain setting should be different too in this case?
3- about clipping, does games knows that the wheel has switched from 8nm, 6nm or 5nm modes in order to calculate and display clipping?
Just curiosity my questions, really enjoying my CSL DD!
Gentlemen when to do updates recommended dd1 settings for Assetto Corsa Competizione. You promised to check it out and the topic died down
Good afternoon, I would also like to see the questions raised by Raul Rico Riquelme clarified.
Yes please , I have the same queries as Raul Rico
Hi to all, this is my first post because I'm new buyer of fanatec device. I bought CSL DD and I'm looking for some good settings for ACC. I just follow the settings suggest here in the first page but I don't understand where I can find BLI, SHO and BRF settings in fanaled app.
Also I don't understand why fanatec suggest the "Compatibility Mode recommended".
Thanks in advance to those who want to help me.
Io utilizzo sia la modalità consigliata (spia gialla) che rossa mod pc basta mappare tutti i tasti con pazienza e il risultato è identico… io utilizzo le impostazioni consigliate cambiando solo i gradi di sterzo per ogni singola auto e credo siano buoni ciao
I think this has to do with Fanatec driver update muting some harder FFB situations. Or maybe the 1.8.11 update muted the black hole kerbs that seemed to suck the car.
If doing a reinstall you saved what files.
I saved the ACC folder in the windows documents directory, it contains all your settings and saves.
I reinstalled the game and Windows but using 70% gain on the CSLDD 8nm still feels muted on kirbs in comparison to what it was. Something changed somewhere, annoyingly.
Read somewhere that they tweaked the FFB and with 1.8.12 a little again. Check that the FFB gain is high enough so that some clipping occurs if your after stronger effects. One thing to try for you maybe road effects on 20-30.
70% gain in game? Make sure it's 100 in drivers.
They're never gonna update to address the new Damper settings, so here are my current settings for ACC with CSL DD 8nm that I have worked on for hundreds of hours in game and I honestly think should be adopted as the official recommended settings:
SEN: 900 (or 1080, or auto, not important so long as you have a 1:1 match in game)
FFS: PEAK (linear doesn't use the full 8nm)
NDP: OFF (adds weight, like losing power steering, but also reduces FFB clarity).
NFR: OFF (not a fan of friction).
NIN: OFF (inertia is a weird one).
INT: 1 (Dulls the ffb frequency, I would have this all the way OFF, but then the frequencies get so high that my nuts and bolts in my aluminum rig begin to hum and ring, so I bumped it up to 1).
FEI: 100 (max intensity)
FOR: 100 (obviously)
SPR: OFF (not sure what this setting does, all I know is my lap times seem to be better and more consistent with it off).
DPR: OFF (adding a little will allow effects like harder to turn wheel when parking which is more realistic, as well as a wheel that re-centers itself in a sturdier and safer manner when going fast down the straight if you decided to tug on the wheel like an idiot for no reason). With DPR OFF the wheel will still realign, but because the FFB is not dampened (slowed), you can't just jerk the wheel to the side at 160 kph and let go, but with DPR on 50% for example, the FFB is so slow and dull that it won't allow for quick movements, so is therefore safer. But that's debatable. However, the higher this DPR value is - the more dull and slow the FFB becomes, so even though at 20% - 50% it produces a more realistic parking effect and a "safer" realignment effect in the case of driver error at high speeds, the overall FFB is dulled, and is actually way harder to correct a bad oversteer because everything about the wheel is slower and less informative. When DPR is OFF then FFB is sharper, more crisp and detailed, informative, and therefore much easier to correct an oversteer. So you compromise between 0% - 50% DPR depending on your personal opinion of what's more important to you, The best possible FFB VS realistic parking effects and a dull and sticky but slow center alignment which could be theoretically safer if you were to tug the wheel on a fast straight for no reason and simply let go. But who cares about parking effects and who's gonna tug the wheel to the side and then let it go when you're going fast down the straight? So I chose to turn DPR OFF and have the best FFB and I can always save a slide as well.
In game settings:
Gain: 60 (could be higher, but I have the free plastic quick release, and if I bump it up too much I can get the occasional quick release slippage clunk, 60 is the sweet spot).
Minimum Force: 0 (very important for DD wheels to have this at 0%!, anything above 0% will likely cause nasty oscillations).
Damper: 50 (default value, but this effect is only felt if DPR is above 0% in Fanatec settings, personally I don't use DPR so this settings is irrelevant).
Dynamic Damping: 100 (default)
Road Effects: OFF (canned effects)
FFB Frequency: 400HZ
Also, make sure you don't have any .LUT method ff process stuff in your Documents folder from back in the day before you had a DD wheel, this will ruin everything if you do. It should be default ffb post processing file in your Documents folder. You can delete it and let Steam re-aquire if necessary. There should be zero oscillations when you're just sitting there, or when you're driving straight. If you have oscillations then you either have a .lut method ffb post processing enabled by accident, or you have minimum force on, or maybe high road effects could cause that, but I don't use road effects because it's a gimmick so I don't know. Not saying you can't use road effects, just because it's a gimmick doesn't make it bad, just personal taste.
Just an update:
To be fair, there is good reason why you would want to use some DPR. For one, the way it feels when you're parked and turning the wheel will be more realistic. Second, the whole feeling of some resistance, some dullness, and therefore a less erratic return to center probably is more realistic and could even make drifting somewhat easier, say in AC1 for example. However, for hotlapping, for competitive advantage, it is not ideal because it sacrifices some speed and clarity in the information. With all that said, if what you're going for is immersion over competitiveness - then I would set DPR: 50 and in-game can also be left at Damper: 50.
Should these settings be used in Pc Mode or Compatibility Mode?
Although I still haven't understood the difference.
I use PC mode. ACC added full support for CSL DD a long time ago, the original Page 1 official post is super outdated. And the wheel's LED lights will work in PC mode, just gotta go into Asetto Corsa Competizione Options, General settings and scroll way down, there's an option in there somewhere for Fanatec LED.
Also, after further testing and deliberation I would suggest never using DPR or road effects, In my original post I left open the possibility for some people liking those, but honestly they both suck.
MINIMUM FORCE: OFF
DAMPER: 50 (DEFAULT)
DYNAMIC DAMPING: 100 (DEFAULT)
ROAD EFFECTS: OFF
FFB FREQUENCY: 400
Ok Derek I tried your setup and it looks great.
The only thing I lowered is the FEI I prefer it softer especially on the curbs.
But otherwise it seems perfect to me.
Just to note in game damper does nothing without DPR. I honestly can't imagine driving without at least some dampning DPR or NDP.
I know that in game damper does nothing without DPR, I talked about that a lot in my earlier post. The reason I leave in game Damper at 50 is because it's the default and if I want damper I can just use my wheel's tuning menu to add some DPR if I want it without having to go back into the ACC controls menu.
I can see the benefits of it, however they come at the cost of speed and clarity in the FFB. Also, if you intentionally zig zag down a straight (like you're warming your tires) and you raise and lower the DPR in real time all the way up to max and all the way back down again to OFF while you're steering back and forth, you can feel the negative affect of too much DPR, like you're churning in wet concrete.
The Fanatec NDP does almost the exact same thing as DPR, but smoother. So I would almost be tempted to say use 20 NDP instead of 50 DPR. However, the parking effect is actually more realistically handled by the DPR using the sim's Damper effects when compared to the Fanatec software NDP version of constant Damper. But the NDP feels better, or smoother at high speeds than DPR.
The drawback to using either NDP, DPR, or some combination of the two is slower, dulled ffb response. It is much easier to correct for oversteer situations with no NDP and no DPR. And you get a more crisp and visceral ffb overall. Using NDP or DPR is like being a boxer throwing punches in a swimming pool underwater. Turning off NDP and DPR is the equivalent to the boxer getting out of the pool and throwing fast punches in the air with no resistance.
With all that said, I can still understand the appeal of dampening. You've got the more realistic feel. However, from a competitive standpoint, there is a disadvantage. And as Aris has said, "It is a compromise, the more damper, the slower the wheel is to react." For me, I don't want to compromise on the advantage I get from fast ffb signals because I don't have seat of the pants G forces or a motion rig. However, I understand that is a personal choice.
The great thing about Fanatec is the ability to switch between 5 profiles on the fly. I recommend saving 3 tuning profiles right next to each other, all exactly the same except one has 50 DPR and one has 20 NDP, and one has both OFF. Then just switch between profiles in real time and go with the one that suits you. I'm very confident in my settings, and I don't see myself ever changing them. However, I can totally understand the argument for damper, and I don't begrudge anyone's personal taste on the matter.
Good to have different FFB settings to choose from! These dont do it for me, in slow corners the FFB is too light and not enough forces transmitted to my liking. Also the wheel oscillates more than I like. One strange thing was that I dont feel kerbs at all.
How could it be too light, not feeling curbs and oscillating at the same time? Oscillations would only occur when you've got too much force, like having minimum force on when you shouldn't for example. But you can't have something be too light and having oscillations at the same time. Thats a contradiction.
Also, there should be zero oscillations with my settings anyways. Unless you're not talking about oscillations while driving normally, but rather you're talking about the Aris realignment test where you tug the wheel at high speeds and then let it go to see if it oscillates or settles back down. However, we covered that in my first post. And again, that can be fixed by going with the 50 DPR option I listed in my first post, and some will prefer that for sure. I laid out the reasons why I personally justify not using DPR in my later post, but I never took that option off the table for others. I just pointed out the two options and explained the compromise either way.
When I drive with these settings I have no oscillations ever, and I feel powerful curbs. Remember a couple of posts back where the guy said he liked my settings but he had to turn down the FEI because the curbs were TOO strong? Now another guy is telling me he can't feel any curbs? Two guys using my settings and one guy says the curbs are way too strong and the other guy saying he can't feel any curbs. This doesnt make sense.
Now there is some lightness at slow speeds, but that's a matter of not using NDP or DPR that we were talking about. Just try it with DPR 50. Or NDP 20 and there won't be that lightness, but it will be more dull and slower ffb, that's the tradeoff Aris was talking about with Damper in ACC.
But it honestly sounds like you're not using my settings or you would definitely feel curbs and you definitely wouldn't have oscillations. Are you sure you don't have a ff_post_processing.ini file accidentally setup with a .lut method in your Documents folder or something?
Thanks Derek for your settings!! I'm having a blast and I even dropped GT7... Promise me you'll buy F1 2022 on pc and share your config... Besides, if you have a PS5 and play GT7, I'm interested!!
Thanks again Derek and fortunately that people like you exist and share their knowledge! !
Thank you sir, have fun!
I ll retest. Have had a Lut from the T300 days, shouldnt be there anymore but check that too.