I have a question i have the GT DD PRO wheel and i am using the settings of Derek in PC Mode but i cant get right the multi function switch in ACC. How can i set it right so that the number of my wheel will be the same as in the game. I have read some workaround but that didn't work for me.
Set them to CONSTANT in the Tuning Menu.
And must i assign the buttons in ACC ?
That didn't work for me
As Maurice said, set the mode to CONSTANT. When mapping the buttons, make sure you tick the box for "Extended Input", with Extended Time of 0.5 seconds. Like this:
Hello Greg i have set it like you say but i doesn't work i have my steering wheel in pc mode. Rotary are set as constant i have mapped the buttons and set extended input on but no success
I'm not sure what the problem is. Admittedly, I don't use CONST personally, that method is just what I've seen recommended here on the forums. I prefer to use PULSE for two reasons: one, simply because that's what finally worked for me when I was trying to figure it out on my own. The second reason is a bit more complicated. Here's an example:
Say one of your encoder knobs controls the TCS level, and is currently set to position 1. Now say your car's TCS level, as saved in the car's setup file, is 2. With the encoders set to PULSE, you will be out on track, driving around with your car's TCS set to 2, but your Fanatec wheel showing 1. To get them to match up, you would need to turn the knob to send a signal to the game, and then the game's TCS level will sync with your wheel. However, the advantage to this is that you can load a setup file and know that what you're feeling on track is how the car is supposed to feel, and is not being overridden by an errant dial position on your wheel that you forgot to change. What I usually do when I load a setup is just to pop over to the Electronics tab and check the TCS/ABS levels stored in the file, and then manually change my dials to match that when I head out on track, and from there on out, no problems.
Now, I haven't tested the following to verify, but with your encoders set to CONST, I suspect what will happen is this: same situation as before with the car set to 2 and the wheel set to 1 - despite your setup file calling for the TCS level to be 2, your wheel setting will override it and it will be set to 1 when you actually take to the track. This then introduces the possibility of TCS/ABS or whatever you have mapped to your dials, to be in completely different positions than what your setup file calls for, leading to unexpected situations while driving, which is obviously not desireable.
Both methods have their pluses and minuses I suppose, but personally I prefer PULSE.
I am on console (PS4-Ps5-Series X) and there is no such rotary encoder on the DD Pro bundled wheel rim....so I don't understand which wheel you are using, specifically.
I also have the Formula v2.5x wheel and this is another story, mps and rotary (pulse).
Or maybe on PC you can do something else with the bundled GT wheel.....I honestly don't know.
Or maybe there is such thing and I don't know because I probably used it 30 minutes in total with Gran Turismo 7, being such a waste of time at the moment and an ffb disgrace. 😀
I just updated my DD1 w/Formula v2 wheel with the new firmware v439 and the wheel feels completely different (extremely weak FFB, no feeling at all).
Anyone else experience this? Hopefully there's some updated settings...?
I am sort of having a similar issue but with the DD PRO GT and v2.5 wheel but for me it is extremely weak when cornering there is nothing much going on and the wheel is really light to turn almost like it is disconnected but on the straights the full force is there. I use the recommended settings but I also use Dynamic FFB and have always used that. This issue seems to have started sometime this weekend gone.
Now I am 100% sure that PC-mode and Compatibility mode has different FFB at least on ACC with in game profile for wheel selected in Comp mode. I know Maurice said its same but I feel its not. In Comp I can catch slides better, the whole FFB range is "saturated" better there is no empty feeling in middle. It might be that you have testing systems that shows its the same but then its in the game engine.
And for the love of god dont use PC-mode in ACC, try Comp mode and be surprised.
One big problem was overdampening and through that lost information of what car is doing. I just was not happy until I revisited FFB after being inspired by Race beyond Matter. I turned down EVERYTHING related to dampers and started to raise things up. I ended up smiling and could feel the car much better now. The settings are very close to Dereks and the KEY is to use Compatibility mode and almost all damping in Fanatec software OFF. Just a little bit in game Damper and 100% Dynamic.
There are two good tracks to test this with high speed long corners. Silverstone T 1 with Maggots and beckets and Suzuka T 15. Also try different cars Porsche, Honda and then with McLaren. Totally different FFB feelings in-between them but through this you can get good overview.
You mention using "compatibility mode" on PC but when i press the "on-off" button to switch to compatibility mode (purple color) the game doesnt detect any inputs at all...or am i doing it wrong?
I have also tried to go into compatibility mode BEFORE starting the game but again, no inputs register.
Not sure about the colors on the GT DD (which is what I assume you're using), but on the CSL DD, compatibility mode is yellow. Doing this will cause the wheelbase to be detected as a CSW 2.5.
Then again, these recommended settings haven't been updated for quite some time. CMP mode is no longer needed, as I've been running ACC with my wheelbase in PC mode for a number of months now with no issues.
Yes, you are correct.. yellow is the compatibilty mode. (Just got my DD Pro so still coming to terms with the functions etc)..