Yeah, it can be easy to overlook. Go into Documents/Assetto Corsa Competizione/Config/ff_post_processing .ini and make sure it looks like this (default)
Then don't forget to save any changes. Next go into your SteamApps/common/Assetto Corsa Competizione/cfg and make sure there's no fishy ff_post_processing stuff in there as well.
Then go in game and try these settings:
NDP: OFF or 20 (OFF for more crisp and quick FFB info, or 20 for added resistance/weight).
DPR: OFF or 50 (OFF for faster and more direct FFB information potentially resulting in a competitive advantage because you'll feel what the car is doing slightly sooner and more clearly and therefore can potentially push the limits more effectively. However, the downside to having DPR OFF is that the overall experience will feel lighter when not much is happening, and when something wild occurs on track the forces can be overly erratic due to the lack of dampening, and on top of that you won't get to experience the new Damper features at all. Those are the drawbacks.
On the other hand, if you decide to go with 50 DPR you'll have the downside of slower/duller less sudden, sharp and clear FFB info. However, the advantage is you will have an overall heavier pleasant feel, and less erratic behavior when the car is out of control. And you'll have the benefit of enabling ACC Version 1.8's new immersive Damper effects. The overall feel will be enhanced, at the cost of some tactile response rate due to the added resistance to sudden and abrupt sharp wheel movement.
There is no right or wrong answer here, it is a compromise that only you can decide. Test it both ways extensively until you're satisfied that you know what suits your needs best).
MINIMUM FORCE: OFF
DAMPER: 50 (DEFAULT)
DYNAMIC DAMPING: 100 (DEFAULT)
ROAD EFFECTS: OFF
FFB FREQUENCY: 400
Another way of looking at the new Damper debate is by making a comparison to first person shooter games. Imagine you are a beginner in a first person shooter game, and someone tells you to try increasing your fov and your aim sensitivity for the competitive advantage at the cost of comfort.
The really high fov while providing the advantage of being able to see more of your surroundings, comes with the drawback that it doesn't look as pretty, it can even become quite distorted.
Likewise, increased aim sensitivity while providing the advantage of being able to get on target potentially faster, comes with the drawback that it's more erratic, difficult, and less comfortable.
For some, they would prefer the ultra competitive settings, and for most they would prefer the most comfortable settings to start with and then slowly increase until they find their sweet spot.
I think DPR is like that, in that while turning it off may provide a potential competitive advantage, it's clearly not as comfortable and not the game's intended default setting. You don't even get the resistance of turning your tires while parked for example without it. So that's why it comes down to the individual. Are you looking for realism and comfort, or are you trying to be a competitive sim racing alien try-hard?
Objectively you get more effects with DPR 50 than without, and it feels better. However, we can't lie and pretend there isn't a competitive advantage to disabling it either. So that leaves us with compelling arguments for and against. Ultimately you have to test both and find your sweet spot.
Question: Does dynamic damping slow/numb steering feel in high speeds?
I think i read somewhere that dynamic damping does nothing after 10km/h-
So could we just driver DPR ~50 and in game damper 0 and dynamic damping 100?
Would dynamic damper make any harm from competetive min/max standpoint?
Cuz dynamic damping makes wheel heavy in slow speeds and when standing still in the pits (pointless immersion from competetive standpoint, but still would like to have it).
You run DPR 0 so ur in game damper 50(default) and dynamic damper 100(default) wont work either way.
Have you tried with just dynamic damping 100 and how did u like it?
"Question: Does dynamic damping slow/numb steering feel in high speeds?"
Not really, but depends on speed. It simulates the gyroscopic/resistance/radial (whatever the term is) forces from the wheels. So at low speeds the (steering) wheels should feel heavier, with more speed it should get "lighter". The setting adjust this "feeling".
I think it comes down to personal preference and what wheel(base) you´re using. For me with 100% it feels more like a "real" car, especially when sliding and trying to catch the slide.
I tried Derek´s settings, but it´s not for me...too much oscillation. DPR is at 100 and damper setting at 20 is the sweet spot for me.
I use CSL DD.
I liked Dereks settings (catching oversteer was good/faster like he said, and i didnt mind straight line oscillation because its not happening if i hold on wheel), but i couldnt tell much different in high speeds if i used DPR 50, ingame: Damper 0 / Dynamic damping 100, while of course in the pits standing still difference was clear and with DPR 0 far from realistic.
I can live with this unrealistic pits behavior, but i was just wondering if i can get best from the both worlds if dynamic damping doesnt effect in high speeds.
Jep, with DPR 0 (or DPR 50, ingame Damping 0) there is no damping, which means no friction when in the pits or standing still. As Derek already has written couple of posts earlier. With no damping cornering is way to "wobbly" for my feeling. I don´t know how to describe it more precisely.
With "my" settings there is (almost) no straight line oscillation, except in the BMW M4 GT4, which seems to have more heavy ffb in general. 🤔
I´m also using the CSL DD with nearly recommended settings from Fanatec (SEN 900, NDP 15-25, INT 1-4, SPR 0, DPR 100 // Gain: 68-75[depends on the car], dyn. Damping 100, Damping 20).
But as I said, it all comes down to personal preference. There is no perfect ffb.
I still have hope we are getting some updates from Fanatec for the recommended settings, a lot of them are pretty outdated.
Actually, after further testing last night i found that with DPR 50 and in game dynamic damping 0, there still is same damping/friction effect when standing still in the pits. Which is super weird, because i always thought dynamic damping is responsible for that effect, but its clearly not.
I dont find any difference in dynamic damping effects (standing still, slow or high speeds) if i use DPR 50 and dynamic damping 0 or even bumbed to 200. So i am confused what dynamic damping does, if it even does anything.
For other settings i have settled NDP 0, NFR 0, NIN 0, INT 1, FEI 100, FOR 100, SPR 0, they seem fine and crisp like i want it.
Thats not super weird because the damping effect when standing still is indeed (and always was) controlled exclusively by DPR.
Dynamic Damper is a Gyro effect which mostly affects driving at higher speeds and has nothing to do with the standstill Damper which DPR controls.
Thanks for clarifying.
This gyro effect is hard to detect, atleast for me. I guess i go with recommended DPR 50, dynamic damping 100 and never look back.
Is your CSL DD working in ACC under PC mode? Or do we still have to go with Compatibility.
Mine is not working under PC mode. Firmware 434. Is this a firmware issue? Game issue right whether a base is recognised.
Is it safe to assume I use the CSL DD settings for my GT DD Pro when on a PC for this game? Thank you.
Yes, they are the same.
Anyone's CSL DD working in ACC under PC mode?
Do you think it is cos I am using 434 driver?
My PC device manager recognises my CSL DD base as a Clubsport Wheel Base v2.5 🙄
Works but better FFB with compatibility mode, this after 1.8.12 update.
I test FFB with the new 992 cup car it's unforgivable. :)
FFB in Compatibility Mode is the same as in native PC mode.
I knew you would say that. Thats why I didnt touch it after I had sudden loss in FFB. Now I just use compatibility mode.
good night, what fanatec recommendations for (acc dd pro) with this new update?
premise: sorry for my bad english.
I have been using the CSL DD for a couple of months and am still doing various tests to find my ideal FFB (on ACC).
Until now I have always used my CSL DD in "PC" mode (red LED), but I read that many use the "Compatibility Mode" (yellow LED), even on the front page the manufacturer's advice is (Compatibility Mode recommended ).
Now I would like to understand what the difference is between the two modes (PC and / or Compatibility).
Thanks in advance
Indeed it would be great to have some official updated settings for the new drivers.
They stay the same.
thanks alot for your settings Derek, I got a DDPro can I use the same settings when I play ACC on PC...?
thanks and have a nice one ;)
CSL DD and GT DD Pro are identical from a settings standpoint, so yes.
I have been trying to sort out my wheel issues with my wheel oscilating in a straight line, if I take my hands of the wheel the car will eventually lose control. I checked the config settings and I don't have the file Documents/Assetto Corsa Competizione/Config/ff_post_processing. all I have is ffbUserSettings.jason.
Could this be my issue if I'm missing this file?
Any help is appreciated
I want to ask the same question like David...is a problem if missing ff_post_processing. file?
Hello Derek I can find this route (Documents/Assetto Corsa Competizione/Config/ff_post_processing .ini) is it necessary to do this step? what happens if I don't do it
Is they a reason why road effects is recommended at 0% for CSL DD?
I believe it's because this is a "canned" effect and is not physics-based, therefore it tends to muddy up the signals that you as a driver feel in the wheel. I think road effects settings like that in most games are canned effects and are intended to exaggerate certain feelings for belt- or gear-driven wheels (e.g. Thrustmaster, Logitech) which don't have the fidelity of direct drive and therefore can't reproduce fine detail without the addition of such canned effects.
I think the Fanatec recommanded setting for CSL DD for Assetto Corsa Competizione are not good at all.
I know the tyres pressure need to be around 27.5 for a better feeling but even a good pressure the FFB is stay strange for me.
I readed the comment on this forum
I think many comment are in the good way when they write that there is too much "damper"
(Compatibility Mode recommended)
Tuning Menu Settings:
NDP 20 ( First damper setting)...
NIN 3 :
INT 4 : is too much ... with .1. It is less smooth but more alive
DPR 50 (Second damper setting)....
BLI User Preference
BRF User Preference
Steer lock: 1080
Min Force: 0
Dynamic Damping: 100 (third damper setting)....
Road Effects: 0
And fanatec forget that now in acc, ffb setting have a new setting named... "damper".... since a update and we dont know what fanatec recommand for this setting... 0 ? 20 ? 50 ?
4 dampers setting .... i think the key for a better FFB setup is there. I d like conserve damper effect when the car is stopped for a better simulation... but I don't the mmbig damping effect all the time, for a better feeling of the road . I think the big damper hide the FFB informations the we need to understand the car motion.
I have not already found the better setting but if someone found what i search please share your settingz