iRacing (PC) - Fanatec Recommended Settings



  • Does anyone have experience with the beta drivers functionality using only the ClubSport v3 Pedals with no Fanatec wheel base?

    Currently using the v3's via USB and a g29 wheel also via USB. Current driver i'm using is 328 and firmware 1.30. See attached: 

    Drivers are compatible with every Fanatec product. However there is no real benefit of using a newer beta driver when you don't use a Fanatec base. It's up to you if you want to try the beta or not, shouldn't make any difference though. ^^
  • Thank you!
  • These are my settings for CSW 2.5 and I found them feeling very close to DD base and in some cases even better! (Kerbs and surface detail):

    Tuning Menu Settings:
    SEN 900
    FF 100
    SHO 100
    ABS 65  < for cars with ABS good to know when You are over applying the brake pressure especially helpful in hot conditions
    DRI Off 
    FOR 110
    SPR 0
    DPR 0
    BRF User Preference
    FEI 70 (60 is fine as well but gives a little less road detail)

    For me DRI and FEI settings are the most noticable game changers here. FEI on 100 gives really weird vibrations that feel articial and unnecessary. I find the 70 setting the best option. (60 has a closer mutted feel like DD has when driving over kerbs etc)

    Indeed those settings are spot on to my likings. Thanks for sharing. Do you run them linear or not? Cheers, Oli
  • I just received and connected my DD1 PS4 edition (running on PC) and entered in the suggested settings. I am new to sim-racing, but have been using a G29 for a few weeks.....and I know the DD wheels have ALOT more power.....but geez man. Those settings are INSANE! There is no way that can be accurate.

    I'm a grown man of 42, and I don't fear much in this world. I mean I'll pick up wild snakes with my hands, jump dirtbikes, etc. But this wheel scares the crap out of me! lol Being new to sim-racing, I hit walls a lot.....this thing makes me fear hitting walls. Sure that's "life-like" but still.

    I'm worried that if I reduce the strength of the motor, that I'm going to lose the fidelity that is apparently so amazing with these DD's. But there is no freaking way I'm going to drive races with the thing set at the recommended settings. Seriously, what the hell.

    I've played around with the settings in both the wheel and iRacing. Got the force way down while driving, but hitting the wall I'm still seeing 7-14nm of torque. That's just crazy and dangerous.

    So I'm here asking for some advice on what parameters to adjust to lower the strength of the wheel while driving (by half?), and especially lower the strength when crashing or hitting the wall.

    Can someone please help me figure this out? I'll obviously keep messing around with it. But advice might go along way. I can't be the only one who thinks this.....

  • With the 352 beta drivers... the setup changes. I had to do some alterations with my DD2

    Tuning Menu Settings:

    SEN 1080 (shown as 108 on some displays)

    FF 55 (if set higher, potential crashes produce such violent forces that my hands/fingers are at risk)

    FFB Linearity OFF (if it is on it gives a lighter weight on the wheel into turns, for me that is not working)

    NDP: OFF

    NFR: OFF

    NIN: 2 (natural Inertia)

    INT: 4 (FFB Interpolation -> to 0, it is very "grainy", so you want to raise that until the grainyness is gone)

    FEI: 100

    FOR: 100

    SPR: OFF

    DPR: OFF

    ABS: 63

    SHO: 100

    MPS: Auto

    APM: Auto (if using Advanced paddle module)

    In-Game Settings:

    Wheel Range and Map Range: Automatically determined by calibration wizard

    Use Linear Mode: Checked

    Reduce force when parked: Checked

    Strength: 4.8

    Wheel force: 25Nm

    Damping 0%

    Min Force 0.0%

  • Thanks Maurice, I will try this.

  • DD1 user here. I need to echo the above comment that with the "Reccommeded" settings, 'crashing' in iRacing seems super dangerous. It is so violent it actually feels like it will break the Podium Wheel Base. It is as if it throws 100% of 20nm at you.

    Question 1: Is there a setting to prevent this "Crash - FFB Spiking" in iRacing or the Podium DD1?

    Question 2: I have separate setups configured on the wheel base. (Assetto Corsa, iRacing, ACC) BUT, because of Assetto Corsa I leave the Podium in CSW 2.5 'compatibility mode'. Is leaving the wheel in CSW Compatibility mode an issue. Should I switch to PC mode for iRacing? or does it matter?

  • These settings are dangerous on a DD1 in Iracing with a star mazda. Worst advice on setup ive ever seen. I hope you dont actually work for fanatech.

  • Than maybe contribute in a more constructive manor by posting your settings? The last phrase is on you, maybe it's a good idea to think first and type after your done with that.

  • The settings I posted in this thread work perfectly fine. The only thing you need to adapt per car individually is the strength in-game. 4.8 as a default, for some cars or dependending on your rim diameter you would alter that value. For example for the Mazda roadster I have it around 6.5.

  • I think your absolutely right. I should certainly pay more attention to the changes I make to the wheel and base to understand what is happening.

    Rather then shoot numbers in get mad and cry like a girl.

    I do apologize. I have no excuse. Only an apology.

    My setup was identical to OPs settings and I got a wicked oscillation that wrecked my thumbs in braking. Like crazy oscillation. Anyway. I need to rewind, and read the manual front to back first and like you said think. This is not a Logitech. It's a dd beast. I will slow down.

    My humble apologies.


  • Today was my first day with a DD wheel (DD1) but 100% and 6.0 doesn't seem to be accurate at all. Trust me my arms are strong but turning the wheel is not reasonable. I've turned it down to 4.5 with Ferrari 488 GTE and it seems to work. Also I've copied my settings from the Simgarage's guy. Do you think they are appropriate? Skip to 19:05 in this video if you want to check them:

  • I know everyone (including myself) had complained about wall hits in iracing etc (thats a game realated choice) but with the new suggested settings and the Linearity ON now, it cuts out that issue (I had been working around it by letting go of the wheel lol like you should be doing anyways in an accident) however now I feel the car does feel right. I hope choices where not made to make the complainers feel better, and choices to bring this closer to a real car feel (because God knows we need it in iracing, they are pretty far from real feeling) Those original settings felt good with some tweeking. I am driving around the bmw m8 and there is just no feel in neutral. I have to play around with settings a bit still. but the Linearity just seems to have messed some stuff up.

    Is there a slider to work with on the damn thing. Like ONLY huge wall hits are effected and dampended by 50 to 75 percent? I want to feel the curbs in iracing. When you do feel them (its hit and miss in iracing) they feel great, or did.

  • Couldn't disagree more ;-).

    Do not turn Linearity on in the wheel (if you meant in iRacing, then yes). The car feel is actually by far the best in iRacing - that is, as long as you use Tyre model 7 cars! GT-cars in iRacing are the worst. I recommend not to drive them as the model/physics is just not right yet. I always wonder how many people race with these cars - it is driving by guessing. Rather use cars that are modeled well, Skip Barber or F3 for example. Everything can be felt with these, curbs, traction loss, over/understeer...

    Settings for DD2:

    Ingame Max Strength: 25nm

    Ingame Max Force: 4.8-6 (that is car dependent!)

    Wheel: FF 50-55, FOR 100

  • Yea I am pretty much strictly talking about GT cars, I have been just spending my time over in ACC to counter that.-

  • Ok, I wonder what your assessment is, when you try the actual Skip Barber or Formula 3 car (both with new damage model and V7 tyre model)

  • Ok guys, new to sim racing, got myself a dd2 and porsche 911 gt3 wheel, looking for some settings people are using on the new 356 driver and fanalabs 1.24 beta? Being new to racing im unsure what good or bad actually feels like so keen to try a few settings out. I mostly drive BMW M8 GTE so would be great to see peoples settings on this car in fanalabs and in game. Thanks.

  • edited February 2020

  • I am using the newest (beta)-driver which I can't recommend enough, it puts the DD2 on another level. But also brings some burden with it as you can change additional low-level settings of your wheelbase.

    My favorite settings at the moment:

    I try not to alter the original feedback as directly coming from the Sim. Yet some compromise has to be done. For example: If setting interpolation to 0, it gets very rough and edgy which is not what you want, so I raised just enough to get rid of that. Same goes for the settings for Natural friction and inertia. With linearity both works: If set to 1, you have to raise the in-game strength as the wheel feels much lighter. But then you have much higher forces with collisions. That may be more real, but for me it is not practicable, so I leave it off.

    As for the Strength in-game -> I vary that car by car, for skip everything between 4.5-5 is okay. For Mazda MX-5 it is set higher. For GT cars it is around 5.

    The only real life reference I have personally are (non-servo steering) Formula 4 cars. The weight of the wheel in corners is around 10-12Nm, so that is what I set in the Sim as well. A friend of mine is driving in the Blancpain series IRL and says about the same for GT3 cars.

  • Can you please point me to the 356 driver download?

  • Thankyou very much marcel for that, will try today and let you know, i remember hearing about the wheel needs to be on 100% ffb then turn down in game to stop possible clipping? So this is not the case? Also what about the 2nd setup tab in fanalab with the additional speed dependant dampening?

  • Any settings for the old GT3 rs wheel?

  • Regarding the 100% FFB, I think there is a misunderstanding or mix-up between FF and FOR. FOR defines what the base will give as a maximum output. FOR is how strong the effects of the game are, more like a multiplier 0-1. FOR should ALWAYS be 100%, for every game. Limitation of the effects should be done in the game itself (normally called "Gain", e.g. in AC or "Strength" in iRacing).

    Limiting the maximum force output (FF) however makes sense, especially for the DD2. If you set this to 100%, the game will send signals that potentially use full force of the wheel - if you really want that, good luck! Just try crashing into a wall in iRacing with that setup! 28Nm on your hands if you are not quick enough and release the wheel! How high this is set? Depends on the physics engine used by the game. But usually it is somewhere between 40 - 65%.

    I also experienced some harsh movements of the wheelbase when loading sessions/leaving sessions when this is set to 100.

  • @Marcel Brunschwiler

    Tried your settings with my DD1 so far I'm very pleased with them just tweaking slightly, however I seem to be getting quite a strong rumble on the wheel when I get close to hitting the rev limiter not sure if I like it or not do you know what's causing it. My settings currently are below (Latest Driver and Fanalab)


    Sen 1080

    FF = 70

    Lin = Off

    NDP = 1

    NFR = Off

    NIN = 3

    INT = 4

    FEI = 100

    FDR = 100

    SPR = Off

    DPR = Off

    ABS = 64

    SHO = 100


    Use Linear Mode: Checked

    Reduce force when parked: Checked

    Strength: 10

    Wheel force: 20Nm

    Damping 0%

    Min Force 0.0%



  • 70% FF is still too strong when crashing into a barrier or into a wall iRacing is the only stupid sim where this happens. Isn't there a value somewhere in the files to dampen the wheel turn when crashing? In RaceRoom it works perfect.

  • That's maybe because iRacing is one of the few Sims that does not cheat with effects or enhance/reduce them artificially. What do you thing happens to your wheel when you crash your real car into a wall?

    But there is an easy solution... limit FF to whatever you want as a maximum strength on the wheel (I use usually something between 40-60) and you are good. This value defines only what the maximum output is no matter what values the Sim sends.

  • Just got my DD1 - are the settings in the first post still the ones to start with?

  • No they are not (would be nice if someone could correct this in the initial post, as we have major changes in the wheel firmware as well as in iRacing itself with new tyre parameters)

    Podium Wheel Base DD2 (owning)

    Tuning Menu Settings:

    SEN 1080 (shown as 108 on some displays)

    FF 90 (lower, this tears your hands apart if you collide...) -> 50-55, maybe for DD1 65-70)

    LIN ON (I have it off, limits peak torque and feels unusual light) -> OFF

    NDP 16 (these alterations if physics of a Sim are good, keep it as low as possibel) -> 1

    NFR 2 (for me not needed anymore with recent updates) -> OFF

    NIN 8 (as low as possible, so it does not produce oscillations) -> 3

    INT 3 (as lows as possible, until the grainy, noisy ffb is gone, do not set this to 0!) -> 3

    FEI 100 -> 100

    FOR 100 -> 100

    SPR 100* -> not used by iRacing

    DPR 100* -> not use by iRacing (some titles offer to add damper in-game, then this value should be 100, otherwise the in-game setting would not have any effect)

    ABS User Preference -> 64

    SHO 100 -> 100 (only has effect if your wheel supports rumble)

    BRF User Preference

    *SPR and DPR values have no effect by default. They can be enabled through the app.ini, but this is not recommended.

    In-Game Settings:

    Wheel Range and Map Range: Automatically determined by calibration wizard

    Use Linear Mode: Checked

    Reduce force when parked: Checked

    Strength: 6.0** -> depends on car, i have it mostly around 4.8 - 6

    Wheel force: 25Nm -> same

    Damping 0% -> same

    Min Force 0.0% -> same

  • Hi guys, some question here.

    i'm new in Iracing, i noticed that respect to ACC, i can feel a constant vibration/sense of feedback even when the car is on the straight. In ACC on the contrary the wheel is almost dead when i run even at high speed on straights. which is the setting that manage this kind of feedback?

    Crashing in iracing is very dangerous with the DD, ok i can remove the hand just before the crash, but is there the risk to damage the wheel?

    I'm running with interpolation set to 3, i still feel it a little bit grainy, which are pro and cons to reduce that value?

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