iRacing (PC) - Fanatec Recommended Settings



  • An addition concerning NIN (natural inertia): I can't emphasize enough NOT using this at all, it adds artificial weight to the wheel, that for some may feel a bit more realistic. But: it kills the fidelity of feel when you oversteer the wheel and go into slight understeer (almost not noticable) -> this costs tons of time and you do not even realize why. With NIN to OFF, it is much easier to feel that und makes you steering more delicate.

    This can maybe help for Sims with less sophisticated physics, but certainly not with complex one's (like rfactor2, iRacing or ACC).

  • The constant vibration under ACc should be the SHO value. Had to set it to 0 because my whole rig was vibrating.

    But got another issue. Randomly when driving I get hard FFB punches without even doing something. Sometimes the peak are shown in the Display of the base, sometimes they are not...bug or feature?

  • edited April 2020

    For the csl.elite ps4, the wheelforce of 8.5 is too high for almost every car, if you set it to 6.5 and work from there, it will be much easier to finetune it to every car, the only car i experienced to need higher wheelforce is the mx5 which i have at 9.3

  • Wheel Force is actually doing nothing. What you need to adjust is the strength setting (Max Force if you use Nm).

    Wheel Force on a CSL Elite should always be set to 6Nm.

  • edited April 2020

    Whats the other slider then?

    I dont mean theone under the steering angles aah eh strength i meant strength

  • In iRacing you have a Max Force (or Strength) slider and a Wheel Force slider. Don't know which one you mean but you said wheel force is what you are changing which is exactly the slider which you shouldn't touch at all and leave it at 6Nm all the time!

  • Sorry waiting for my new pc so i couldnt check it haha

  • edited May 2020

    New DD1 owner after upgrading from CSL ELite. And loving it. Used the settings given with some tweaks and no problems. Feels great.

    I do have a clarifying question: In none of the DD1/2 settings does it mention the torque key. Is it assumed that this is installed?

    I do run it installed, but this DD noob just wanted to know :-)

  • Yes, the settings are meant to be used with the Torque Key inserted.

  • Hey Curtis! New DD1 owner here also :) Out of curiosity - what tweaks did you do?

  • edited May 2020

    Hi Petri, I was testing it with the OP settings both in iRacing and on the DD1. I then inserted the torque key eventually lowering FF to 65-70.

    I'm not sure this is right though as it still needs some tuning ergo my question on the torque key

  • I do not know if it is the place indicated, but I will ask the question anyway. Does anyone have the setting for the DD1 for the VW Beetle?

    Thanks to everyone who has shared setups that have helped me so much.

  • I doubt it

  • I have a question in regards to the BRF setting. I recently took out the clubsport V3 pedals and replaced them with Heusinkveld Ultimates. I am still using the DD1 with Porsche Podium wheel.

    When I try to save a new profile without the v3 pedals connected (so that it no longer says "pedal mismatch"), the BRF category disappears.

    Is this fine, or should I just be using my same fanalab profile, even though the V3 pedals are no longer in use?

  • That's fine and normal because Brf is only available with a Fanatec pedal set.

  • What is it that linear mode does? Recently got the CSL 1.1 and seeing mixed recommendations for the best baseline settings to use within iRacing.

  • CSL is too weak for a linear FFB output, I would leave it disabled

  • I have a CSL Elite and experiencing almost zero feedback from the wheel in iRacing. I feel the resistance and some rumble when off track but I never seem to sense any over or understeer happening.

    Have already applied the recommended settings here but am at a loss as to what else I could try?

  • I tested the Linear Setting on/off for a variety of cars (with the DD2) and decided to not use it in the end. It makes the steering too loose. Even if cranking ab the FFB strength. Linear setting in iRacing is on though (which makes sense for high dynamic DD wheelbases).

  • Hello Maurice. Thank you for all the information provided. It improved the performance of my DD1 a lot. I would like to ask if you use irffb, or someone on the forum who can help me. I've seen many opinions and videos but I can't get a good feeling. Any help is welcome. And thanks again for the setups that are very good.

  • Evan HeuerEvan Heuer Member
    edited July 2020

    Does anyone have good settings for FR2.0, USF2000 and F3 car. The second i let go of the wheel with these settings it wants to VIOLENTLY shake.

    They only thing i have found that works without losing all FFB is turning NDP, NFR, and NIN up which makes it hard to feel the car during slides and through corners. Finding a balance has been extremely frustrating and these recommended settings are legit injury inducing if not careful. Real race cars do not violently shake about when drivers lift their hands to celebrate a win why is my $2,000 wheel trying to kill me with these settings and strength in iracing at 3. 3. I have adjusted some settings and cant get a good feel in formula cars in iracing and oscillations and crashes are killing me but the cornering feel is nice. Current settings are


    FF 90

    NDP 28

    NFR 10

    NIN 0

    INT 8

    FEI 70

    FOR 100

    SPR 100

    DPR 100

    ABS 100

    SHO 100


    strength 3.3

    Max force 20

    This makes it better but the wheel is much heavier and i lose feel with slides and through corners. Love my DD1 but getting it to feel right in all situations and not try to kill me is actually driving me insane.

  • That's normal for these cars and there is nothing you can do against it..

  • Evan HeuerEvan Heuer Member
    edited July 2020

    I have spent a lot of time testing, watching youtube videos on FFB, browsing forums and getting ideas. i finally found settings for the FR2.0, F3, USF2000 verified tested, but any formula\indy style cars should be fine. With these settings my wheel does not oscillate on the straights but still feels decent through corners.

    Formula Cars- SEN - Auto, FF 50, LIN off, NDP 21, NFR 6, NIN 1, INT 7, FEI 90, FOR 100, SPR 100, DPR 100, SHO 100

    All other Cars- SEN - Auto, FF 50, LIN off, NDP 15, NFR 2, NIN 0, INT 6, FEI 90, FOR 100, SPR 100, DPR 100, SHO 100

    iRacing Max force 20, Strength to 6ish, LIN on, Damper 0. Auto strength will set it WAY to strong so i dont even try auto anymore.

    I will have to remember to switch profiles between cars which i will forget sometimes but at least it is quick and easy to change on the wheel. Lose more detail than i like keeping the formula settings for non formula cars. i would not say this is ideal but will work. Having confidence and consistent proper feel in my equipment is crucial to me.

  • I assume this is for a DD1? Do not use Ndp and nfr (only with oscillation issues not solvable with other means), interpolation far too high, 3 or 4 should be enough. Dpr and spr to off, not used anyway and would not recommend to use dynamic dpr with fanalabs.

  • edited July 2020

    actually, in iRacing you want higher INT setting because of the very low 60Hz FFB refresh rate to smoothen it out to feel not so harsh. 6-8 feels best in iRacing imo. Everything less is way to rough and unsmooth.

    NDP should also always be used, I typically use 10-20 - more is too much but less than 10 feels really awkward and nothing like a real car because of way too less weight in the steering.

    DPR and SPR can be set to OFF or 100, doesnt matter because they arent used, DPR only with Dynamic Damper of FanaLab which can be very helpful to prevent oscillations at high speeds.

  • Yes this is a DD1. I have heard this about INT as well. Boosted media just did a 30 min video on DD1 and DD2 FFB and he had INT at 8. I was also getting a clunk in the wheel over bumps which is why i turned FEI to 90. Just been a pain to get dialed in for different cars. i love all the settings but i do wish it was a little more plug and play and it sounds like iracing needs to do some FFB updating to get more on ACC level.

  • If you like a smoothened out FFB signal, you will be happy with INT at 8... yet it is completely unnecessary and you will lose details. At least for DD2, not more than 4 is needed. Start with 0, then raise it until the grainy feeling is gone (like "sand" in the gear).

  • This is what REALLY bothers me about all this. I love that an expensive wheel has a lot of options and customization but the controversy on what are good and proper settings is endless especially with iRacing. I get there is no right way to do it but there are for sure a lot of wrong ways to do it. I think someone with wrong settings could easily be tenths down with a lot less consistency. When i am getting put in a top split race with 4k and 5k IR guys i want to know i have my wheel setup the best i possibly can. I will test after turning down INT tonight to see what i think. Thanks for your thoughts and help.

  • Evan HeuerEvan Heuer Member
    edited July 2020

    After lots of testing with with the USF FR2.0 FR3.5 and F3 I feel i have a good baseline.

    Formula Cars- SEN - Auto, FF 50, LIN off, NDP 18, NFR 2, NIN 0, INT 6, FEI 100, FOR 100, SPR 100, DPR 100, SHO 100

    All other Cars- SEN - Auto, FF 50, LIN off, NDP 10, NFR 0, NIN 0, INT 6, FEI 100, FOR 100, SPR 100, DPR 100, SHO 100

    Racing Max force 20, Strength to 6-9Nm, LIN on, Damper 0. Auto strength will set it WAY to strong so i don't even try auto anymore.

    NDP over 10 and NFR over 0 Should only be used to prevent oscillations in the wheel. If getting Oscillations still slight raise NDP and\or NFR until they are gone. Using too much of these add on filters you will lose feel and consistency which is not good.

    I just won a formula sprint race in the USF2000 with the formula car settings above and i can say the car felt great on my DD1 PS4 bundle.

    See you guys out there!

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