I appreciate it needs tuning, but find it hard to believe that setting feels right in any car! And the F3 is a pretty typical example. Counter-steering at 50% was still fine (and much easier/smoother than the CSW2.5 I've just upgraded from). Really think Fanatec should review the recommendation on that setting.
Especially the F3 car is one of the most complex cars to dial in the FFB so it's maybe an extreme example you picked.
NDP in general, as said, should be as los as possible for pretty much all other cars.
But it's okay if you like a heavier more dampened FFB.
Hmmmm. This appears to have been an iRacing glitch...
I double checked I had all of the recommended settings and it was still floaty in slow corners.
I turned linear mode OFF in iRacing and it was exactly the same (which surprised me as it should feel significantly different).
Then I turned linear mode back ON again in iRacing and suddenly it was all fine.
So a ghost linear mode setting seems to have been the cause.
Coming from the csw V2.5 I also feel that this NDP setting in particular could do with some tweaking could definitely be a bit higher just to help feel the road underneath you. Also I’m experiencing ALOT of clipping at similar forces I was using on my CSW which apparently has the same maximum nm force.
CSW v2.5 has 8.5Nm Peaks with an unknown amount of Holding Force. CSL DD with BK180 has 8Nm Peaks with 6Nm Holding Torque (without BK180 its 5Nm Peak an 4Nm Holding). So in theory they can feel different, even with the same in game settings.
Season 4 notes.
whats mean this? 😅
Any iRacing settings for the GT DD Pro yet?
Same as CSL DD.
Dirt oval and asphalt oval dd2 recommended settings please…
For CSW 2.5 users and for everyone really.
The first thing is to say that the "Use Linear Mode" option is not made exclusively for Direct Drives, not at all and iRacing itself says so in the explanation if you put the mouse cursor over the option.
What Linear Mode does is give you the information directly and without distortion... while if you check the box the iRacing software will automatically increase the smallest forces so that they are felt on the weakest wheels and not lost, or that they do not feel. That is, it is like increasing the minimum force option.
The CSW 2.5 has enough strength and is fully capable of using the checked "Use Linear Mode"... and I absolutely recommend those who use this base to check it, the steering wheel feels much more realistic and the information arrives in a cleaner way, less rough.
Like the Drift Mode it can also be used at 0 and you will see that the change is not much, since the FFB of the same game stiffens the steering wheel when it should and what the Difrt Mode does is add a permanent resistance at all times and also it feels more realistic to take it to 0 or -1... but this is already at ease.
I leave my configuration for CSW 2.5 recommended for iRacing, after years of use and testing many, many, configurations:
ClubSport Wheel Base V2.5
Tuning Menu Settings:
For.Eff % 120
BLI User Preference
Wheel Range and Map Range: Automatically determined by calibration wizard
Use Linear Mode: CHECKED
Reduce force when parked: Checked
Strength: This will totally depend on the car and track.***
Wheel force: 8.2Nm*
Min Force 0.0%
*The CSW 2.5 is capable of reaching a peak of 8.5nm, so you could set this option to 8.5 with no problem. It suits me to leave it at 8.2nm and the forces and sensations it delivers are very good, it is easy for me to control the car and save it when I lose grip, it is felt immediately when the rear wheels start to slide. But if you find it to be too much strength, lower it to 8 or less, and if you lack strength you can raise it to 8.5. This number is just so iRacing can do its calculations and deliver the FFB "auto" option to you... It won't influence the force, just for iRaing to help us calculate the force based on the clipping.
*** This will totally depend on the car and track. I use the iRacing FFB meter that after a few laps the "auto" appears and gives you the maximum recommended force to use. If you take the Black Box of the Force Feedback (the same of the mirrors and the FOV) after taking a lap around the track, a "auto" will appear next to the FFB option, when it appears you press it with the mouse and iRacing will adjust flywheel force... this option may appear again, so I recommend leaving the black box open for a few turns until it stabilizes. That will be the maximum force that the steering wheel can withstand without clipping, and the calculation is made according to the number indicated in the Wheel Force that we put.
Hi Dominic, in your post for CSL DD, you say "FF 100", while there is no "FF" in Fanatec's software. Do you mean FFB actually? If so it would be great to change it to avoid confusion in others.
FF was renamed to FFB, yes.
Hi. Here in the forum stands for the dd1 FFS Lin and in fanalab stands FFS Peak. Which of these is correct?
Both the Forum and the FanaLab profiles recommend Linear.
If your FanaLab profile has FFS set to PEAK then you are using an ancient old FanaLab version where it was indeed wrong but that was changed to Linear months, if not years ago so you should think about updating FanaLab to the most recent version 1.66 (note that you also need driver 447 alongside FanaLab 1.66!).
All right, thank you.
120 force does not strain the engine too much?
keeping it at 100 is perhaps better?
however, apart from keeping 100 for, the rest are more or less the same you have your settings I keep dri off
I'm confused with the fact that fanatec recommends to activate the compatibility mode in most of the games, at least in iracing and acc which are the ones i use the most. Is it really necessary or recommended to activate it? I had understood that the compatibility mode had to be activated in games that did not support the base, but in both iracing and acc it´s supported, isn't it? or have I missed something?
Compatibility mode is no longer needed for ACC or iRacing.
ok, thanks Maurice, maybe it is time for fanatec to update the configuration posts 😁
These are hands down the best settings for dd, dd1/dd2:
You really don't want any effects to cover the real feedback coming from the game. After I've switched from the recommended settings to these ones I've gained 1 second...
I have the CSW 2.5 and I have only 880° of rotation (440+ and 440-)
Do you think that I can put in the Tuning Menu Setting?
Just use AUTO.
iRacing has added a new In-Game Setting under FFB options called "Smoothing", is this recommended or is it user preference?
I'm using the GT DD Pro 8nm base.
It's recommended to set this to 0 and adjust the smoothing with INT or FEI on the base.
Been thinking about this recently. Need to test a few ways, but seems like iRacing doing the smoothing could have an advantage in that it's happening earlier in the FFB chain.
Its the opposite. Using the smoothing filter introduces significant lag and creates massive oscillations.