You mention it started with using the shifter and handbrake, does it make a difference if they are plugged in or not?
Could be a problem of the wheel causing over current and then the PSU shuts off for a brief moment but could also be the PSU not being able to deliver the current needed to start. Support needs to take a closer look at this
Just took a look at the video @MylesEllerby posted but it seems a power issue to me and the suggestion @MarcelPfister made does makes sense. When turning things on you always have a peak in power consumption and seeing the video it looks like the power supply can't handle it.
By the way, something completely different, the @ mention stuff doesn't work because of a 403 when fetching data somewhere in the React code. ;)
I checked this also. I am using the keys on my CSL Elite PS4 Wheel L3 an SH for ignition and starting the car. But I am using this combination in ACC also and there is no Problem.
Warning to those wanting to update to the latest Windows 10 October 2020 update (20H2), it might breaks the Fanatec drivers preventing the wheel base from appearing in Windows. The control panel change in this update broke it. Verified this with v372 driver so don't know if it's affecting v380 drivers. I had to revert to previous Windows build to resolve the issue.
Hi, issues with F1 in PS4, upgrade to 380 and the thumb encoders missing inputs, opposite direction and switch sides L to R and R to L, downgrade the base firmware and works fine. Csl Elite Wheel Base V674 Mot Con V22 F1 V2 Wheel V32
Having conducted the test you asked of me (results reported) I am interested to learn of any further comments about my CSW 2.5 being powered down when the Mclaren GT3 wheel is attached under 380.
You need to upodate the Base Firmware as well, 674 does not belong to driver 380. Contained with driver 380 is Firmware 679 - try that one and see if the issues are fixed.
Windows 10 20H2 does NOT break Fanatec drivers in particular, you just have to re-install the drivers like with EVERY big Windows 10 update since years... I am using 20H2 since day1 without any issues (after re-installing the driver).
@Reind thank you guys, very much appreciate the feedback. There is no difference between them plugged in or unplugged, when I tried it unplugged the unit lasted about 15 minutes whilst driving before shutting back down, fans did not work at all during this time either.
Also Sanel from support has responded to my ticket I sent in on Friday! I mentioned to him that it could be related to a power brick issue and he said they could potentially send another one for me to help diagnose the problem. I have linked him the same videos you guys have seen so hopefully he can give me further advice on the problem. If it is power brick related after all this time I will turn back to V380 and see if I can finally experience the latest Fanatecs drivers/firmware lol.
Have the same experience with the DD1 on PS4 with ACC.
Had the TC on the right thumb encoder, after the update it was on the left thumb encoder. Also missing inputs and sometimes need to wait a few seconds before it is recognizing an turn on the encoder.
Earlier I mentioned that I wasn't experiencing "knocks" with 380 and the associated firmware on my DD1 and Porsche wheel + BME. Well I should correct that- I AM getting knocks from time to time in ACC. Maybe once every few laps. It's difficult to put my finger on what situation is causing it, but I think it's usually when going over curbs, and possibly in some slides?
The OLED has the fanatec logo (no telemetry on the base). Never really messed with telemetry on the wheel, either. My settings are below. Any ideas? Is this expected?
I had a blue screen this morning that says Bad Pool Caller. I have restored windows, deleted everything, and now it seems every time i try to install the beta drivers 356, 373, and 380, and all cause the blue screens. I dont know what to do.
Has anyone had this issue? A complete wipe and win10 reinstall didnt help me.
Its literally the same exact BSOD every time and references wdf0100.sys
This knock used to happen alot during previous beta versions... When I had 380 working fine last week, i went over a curb in iracing and had a crazy hard jolt out of the blue like it was a spike of some kind that wasn't meant to happen.
There should be the latest stable driver somewhere but I'm more confused about the firmware versions. Fanatec should mention somewhere that all the older firmware versions are included in the latest driver package (if that's true) and the drivers in the product page are just minimum requirement to the specific equipment to work properly. In other words the latest driver includes everything one needs (incrementally).
Same here. I had the base so hot and I got scared! I restarted the base, and the fan started at 100%. I hope nothing has been damaged, I noticed after an hour and a half of racing...
Guys, are you sure you are talking about the previously reported jolts which happen random and independently from where you are on the track? Ofc you get FFB from driving over curbs and such, please don't mix these things up.
Comments
You mention it started with using the shifter and handbrake, does it make a difference if they are plugged in or not?
Could be a problem of the wheel causing over current and then the PSU shuts off for a brief moment but could also be the PSU not being able to deliver the current needed to start. Support needs to take a closer look at this
Just took a look at the video @MylesEllerby posted but it seems a power issue to me and the suggestion @MarcelPfister made does makes sense. When turning things on you always have a peak in power consumption and seeing the video it looks like the power supply can't handle it.
By the way, something completely different, the @ mention stuff doesn't work because of a 403 when fetching data somewhere in the React code. ;)
I checked this also. I am using the keys on my CSL Elite PS4 Wheel L3 an SH for ignition and starting the car. But I am using this combination in ACC also and there is no Problem.
Warning to those wanting to update to the latest Windows 10 October 2020 update (20H2), it might breaks the Fanatec drivers preventing the wheel base from appearing in Windows. The control panel change in this update broke it. Verified this with v372 driver so don't know if it's affecting v380 drivers. I had to revert to previous Windows build to resolve the issue.
Did you do a repair on the driver after the windows update? I installed v380 after the update. Been a good two weeks, no problems so far.
Hi, issues with F1 in PS4, upgrade to 380 and the thumb encoders missing inputs, opposite direction and switch sides L to R and R to L, downgrade the base firmware and works fine. Csl Elite Wheel Base V674 Mot Con V22 F1 V2 Wheel V32
Hi Maurice or Marcel,
Having conducted the test you asked of me (results reported) I am interested to learn of any further comments about my CSW 2.5 being powered down when the Mclaren GT3 wheel is attached under 380.
Thanks
How do I check temperature with a McLaren GT3 Wheel?
You need to upodate the Base Firmware as well, 674 does not belong to driver 380. Contained with driver 380 is Firmware 679 - try that one and see if the issues are fixed.
Windows 10 20H2 does NOT break Fanatec drivers in particular, you just have to re-install the drivers like with EVERY big Windows 10 update since years... I am using 20H2 since day1 without any issues (after re-installing the driver).
@Reind thank you guys, very much appreciate the feedback. There is no difference between them plugged in or unplugged, when I tried it unplugged the unit lasted about 15 minutes whilst driving before shutting back down, fans did not work at all during this time either.
Also Sanel from support has responded to my ticket I sent in on Friday! I mentioned to him that it could be related to a power brick issue and he said they could potentially send another one for me to help diagnose the problem. I have linked him the same videos you guys have seen so hopefully he can give me further advice on the problem. If it is power brick related after all this time I will turn back to V380 and see if I can finally experience the latest Fanatecs drivers/firmware lol.
Hi Maurice, i just update the wheel base firmware but the issues persists
Have the same experience with the DD1 on PS4 with ACC.
Had the TC on the right thumb encoder, after the update it was on the left thumb encoder. Also missing inputs and sometimes need to wait a few seconds before it is recognizing an turn on the encoder.
After the update:
Red line = Right Thumb Encoder
Yellow line = Left Thumb Encoder
Earlier I mentioned that I wasn't experiencing "knocks" with 380 and the associated firmware on my DD1 and Porsche wheel + BME. Well I should correct that- I AM getting knocks from time to time in ACC. Maybe once every few laps. It's difficult to put my finger on what situation is causing it, but I think it's usually when going over curbs, and possibly in some slides?
The OLED has the fanatec logo (no telemetry on the base). Never really messed with telemetry on the wheel, either. My settings are below. Any ideas? Is this expected?
I had a blue screen this morning that says Bad Pool Caller. I have restored windows, deleted everything, and now it seems every time i try to install the beta drivers 356, 373, and 380, and all cause the blue screens. I dont know what to do.
Has anyone had this issue? A complete wipe and win10 reinstall didnt help me.
Its literally the same exact BSOD every time and references wdf0100.sys
I have the same issue, since I updated my steering wheel to V37 the encoders doesn't work on ps
Are you using the F1 wheel? Just asking cause in my PBME still cannot set the MPS switches no matter what I have tried.
The Thumb Encoders are exclusive on the Formula v2 wheels ;)
Yeah. In my F1 can even assign the smallest of the switches. In PBME I am still struggling😥😪🤧.
Thanks for the report, we could reproduce this issue and will work on it.
Can you please attach the log files as a .zip from: C:\Users\Public\Fanatec Logs
If possible a picture of the blue screen or is all it says only "Bad Pool Caller"?
and the logs i found but not sure at what point they are from because i wiped everything again last night
i wiped the hard drive again over night. I guess when i reinstalled, more errors are happening from what i see in that log file...
I know if i go to cmd prompt and run the "verifier" (win 10 driver verifier), that i will end up getting these blue screens when i restart the pc.
Dear Fanatec-Team,
I have exactly the same behavior with the same setup.
At first I thought the "bumps" came from not properly driving over the curbs (ACC), but that turned out to be not entirely correct.
Until now, however, the "bumps" always came when driving through curves and crossing curbs. But never in the same curve and also not reproducible.
The phenomenon occurs only sporadically.
Best regards,
Martin
This knock used to happen alot during previous beta versions... When I had 380 working fine last week, i went over a curb in iracing and had a crazy hard jolt out of the blue like it was a spike of some kind that wasn't meant to happen.
You're absolutely right. I'm the new one and I have been quite confused as you can see in my comments in these threats:
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/21509/driver-installations
https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/comment/55545
There should be the latest stable driver somewhere but I'm more confused about the firmware versions. Fanatec should mention somewhere that all the older firmware versions are included in the latest driver package (if that's true) and the drivers in the product page are just minimum requirement to the specific equipment to work properly. In other words the latest driver includes everything one needs (incrementally).
Same here. I had the base so hot and I got scared! I restarted the base, and the fan started at 100%. I hope nothing has been damaged, I noticed after an hour and a half of racing...
OK, glad I'm not the only one experiencing knocks in 380. Thanks for reporting this.
Guys, are you sure you are talking about the previously reported jolts which happen random and independently from where you are on the track? Ofc you get FFB from driving over curbs and such, please don't mix these things up.