If you are sure it started with this firmware, use the downgrade function to go back to an earlier version to see if it solves the issue again.
Check if the power cable is properly inserted and not loose, wiggle it slightly to see if the base turns off.
Check the power button if it appears to actuate too easily or might have another defect which could lead to turning off the base.
Check the cable connection and kill-switch if you have one.
Check if the power supply LED is turning off for a second when the base shuts off, this would indicate a PSU defect or that the DD is drawing too much power.
It might be unrelated but we are currently after another case where someone says his FFB is worse and more noisy with USB 3.0 but when he connects the base to USB 2.0 it's smooth and fine. In case you have it connected to 3.0 give the 2.0 port a try to see if it makes a difference.
Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I think Im already using the 2.0 port on my PS5 (front).
Nevermind...like I said since tech support replaced main pcba it got much bettrr and the new clubsport rs wheel I got helps a bit with dampening because of the weight.
> I know there was an issue with the Xbox version of ACC which caused FFB to be to weak. They've applied a fix for it but sadly only for the Series X/S version of the game as they are not updating the last gen version anymore.
I've seen other threads around ACC and it's weak FFB - and I was hesitant to include it in testing to be fair because of the issues surrounding it.
> With the Podium DD there should be enough strength headroom to compensate, which FFB settings are you using and might raising them for box be an option? But I see you are using the P DD with plastic QR and therefore it has not much torque headroom available.
> I think the Forza games give options to raise the in-game strength to something up to 200% on the overall strength and individual effects, does it help to raise them for compensation?
On the old firmware I use FFB 80 in Horizon 5, both Xbox and PC. On the new firmware I tried FFB 100 on the base on Xbox and it feels limp, however, on the PC version, I was still using FFB 80. If the boost previously applied a multiplier of 2 to FFB, it feels like it's now applying a multiplier of 0.2 instead - it really does feel that lifeless on Xbox in the latest firmwares. That said - I don't notice a difference of FFB being stronger on Xbox on the old firmware if I switch. FFB 80 works fine on both platforms, only when I upgrade firmware does it become apparent that FFB is noticeably weaker on Xbox than PC. Based on the boost explanation above, I'd have expected to be having to switch settings for the old firmware, and that's not what I'm experiencing at all.
I've also tried upping the in-game strength in both Forza games, but it just gets nowhere close to the FFB 80 on PC level of force or detail, and loses all ability of being able to feel the car through the wheel. There's also the secondary downside that the Forza games synchronise their options between platforms, so if I tweaked for Xbox, then the next time I decide to play PC, I'd have to keep changing those settings.
I've some other games on both platforms I can check with, and will discount ACC going forward due to known developer issues. Figured I'd start with Microsoft titles, as I'd expect those to be more consistent across platforms.
Also just noted with the ITM stuff in Fanalab, that I can set a particular screen active then switch to the Xbox - maybe the FFB / motor screen may shed some light on the differences when in Xbox mode on the new firmware.
Cheers for your time (and explanation on the boost stuff) Marcel. I'll do some more digging from the above info (other games, ITM screen) and get back to you with findings, I'll just need some time to work through different games/platforms/firmwares etc.
I'm on driver 439. Fanatec Control Panel notified me of motor update so I downloaded and installed. This was obviously bad. DD1 fan was now at 100% and windows does not recognize it. Followed instructions from https://admin.forum.fanatec.com/uploads/187/VZWXOL7O4SEJ.pdf by holding power button for 10 seconds and flashing firmware.
Fan is no longer at 100%, however Windows 10 nor Fanatec Control Panel recognizes the base/wheel/pedals. Everything worked fine before the update. Suggestions?
UPDATE: Changed USB ports and now it's recognized! So what is the proper way to update? Download driver 443 and then update with the green button?
The upgrade from 439 to 443 was trouble free for me. DD1 & Formula V2 wheel. The FFB does feel a lot different. It might be in my head, but I feel I need to turn up the settings with 443. I don't drive a common car (Lotus 49 on iRacing) so I can't just load up the new Fanalab profiles.
Its one of the settings, I think Linearity. It turns itself ON with the new driver, I personall like it off - which should allow you to use similar strengths etc. as before.
Linearity is a setting which was renamed to Force Feedback Scaling a long time ago. You can choose between Peak and Linear FFS setting. The default value is Peak, therefore FFS defaults to Peak, not Linear. For the toggle status Peak = On, Linear = Off. So if you want the most strength FFS needs to be set to Peak (On).
When I updated to 442 with old firmware a month or so ago, my DD1 felt amazing. Like I had a new wheel. I was in love.
when I updated to 443 and new firmware a few days ago, it felt like I had a Logitech wheel. So notchy, zero smoothness. I am still using the same recommended settings for iracing, but it just feels worse now.
you know when you turn the wheel, and you start to feel where the limit of the tyre grip is? Whenever I get near there, it feels like I’m driving over a small rumble strip or something. Every time, Feels like the wheel is ‘low frequency’ clicking during turning.
someone else agreed with me about this on Facebook. Am so disappointed. ‘Ffb is subjective’ as people say, but My experience went from way better to way worse so fast
442 with old Firmware was the same as 439 with the same old firmware as a Driver alone Doesnt change FFB. It's only the Firmwares which change FFB Feeling.
Sounds like your base might be broken somehow and you should contact the support as everyone else agrees that the FFB feels SIGNIFICANTLY better with the new firmwares.
It would be a bit of a coincidence for my 16-month-old base to ‘break’ within the same 10 minutes that I updated to the new firmware though..
is there a log in fanatec control panel that shows what previous firmware I was using? I’d like to try going back to make sure I’m not going crazy. A FFB telemetry would probably probably show what I’m describing pretty clearly.
and yes, 442 was significantly better, I was so happy. 443 and new firmware feels completely different to me
As said, 442 is the same as 439 and also the same as 443 when using the old Firmware. Only the new Firmwares can change the FFB, the Driver alone cant do such magic. So the FFB feels the same when using Driver 439, 442 or 443 with the old Base FIrmware 691 and Motor Firmware v42.
But yes, in the Driver there is a "Collect Logs" Button which then collects some log data. When you open it and have a look in the files "Fw Base Updater.log" and/or "FwControlPanelV2" then you can see, with a bit of search, the exact Firmwares you ever used.
That's supposed to be because there is a new Standard Tuning Menu with limited settings since a year according to the (not skippable) Changelog description.
You can enter the "old" Advanced Tuning Menu by pressing the Tuning Menu Button for 3 seconds while being in the Tuning Menu.
If the new firmware and driver settings have changed how the force feedback feels on the base, doesn’t that mean fanatec need to update the ‘recommended settings’ for each game that they have recommended settings for?
I made this noob video a while ago, helping people get rid of the metal clunk noise that people have (force effect intensity). But still the recommended settings are FEI at 100. It feels so Logitech at 100
After a long time i connected ClubSport RS wheel. Got notification to update it from v2 to v3. When i try to update it, control panel freezes. Other wheels update fine. Proper reinstall of the drivers also didn't help. Is there any known issues with 443 drivers with RS wheel?
Sorry for off-topic but how do you like the Lotus 49 since it was updated some time ago? When I tried it the first time (before the updates) I didn't like it at all but after the last update it seemed to be much better. Need to give it another try because I generally love these kind of analogue cars, the are sadly just way too underpopulated online. Was one of my favorite cars in AC.
Are you maybe using a P DD without torque key or with a wheel which has a plastic QR? Because in low-torque-mode the setting is now always linear. But this doesn't change the behavior in low-torque-mode at all because the difference between linear mode and peak mode is only relevant with higher forces closer to the limit of what the motor can deliver (FFB ~75 and above)
There were now FFB changes between driver 442 and 443 and no such thing was reported from others.
Make sure the settings are really the same, if you feel vibrations on the limit it's probably an effect from the game (which game do you play?) and you can use the two filtering effects of the Tuning Menu to dial it in. First I would make sure INT (Interpolation) is not set to 0 but more something between 3-6. If there is still unwanted vibration you can try to reduce FEI to 90 or 80. However it can be a wanted an realistic effect from the game (if not over exaggerated) which can give you good info on where the limit is. ACC has a good dynamic and good vibration when approaching the limit, in GT Sport and GT7 it's scripted and can be a bit too harsh. Some other sims don't have it at all though.
I wouldn't immediately jump on the "hardware defect" conclusion, I rather think it's something with the settings.
Another thing could be that the Motor Sensor Calibration needs to get re-run.
FEI is suggested at 100 because it's the most responsive setting, following the intended FFB signal most precisely. FEI 90 or 80 can be used for personal preference to counter unwanted vibration effects but I personally would not suggest to go lower as it can create input lag and cause oscillation. A setting which works better to solve unwanted noise and vibration is the interpolation setting (INT). It's a less harsh filter which doesn't introduce as much downsides as FEI.
From another user here on the forum I've heard that he had unwanted vibration in the FFB when using his USB 3.1 port for the P DD and he could resolve it by using USB 2.0 instead. Maybe it's worth to give that a try, let me know if the behavior changes for you.
So far I don't know an issue with that wheel and updates.
Which Base do you have? Then I'll give it a try.
Something you could try:
Remove the RS wheel from the base
Open the Firmware Manager like usual
Activate the manual update mode in the top right
Click on the blue "Steering Wheel Firmware Update Recovery" button
Accept the message with "OK"
Attach the RS wheel to the base
The wheel should get updated now
If it was not working, put the motor axis into another position. For example if the wheel was straight the last time, turn it by 90 degree before starting the update.
Still doesn't work. I'm on DD2 (third one, base is almost new). Mclaren updated fine to v35. I tried to re-flash BMW v2 also went fine. The only problem is RS. Past updates were fine. V3 is the first one that freezes (stuck on "Please wait")
Ah yes sorry I just double checked its FFS and i have it at ON and I think it switched all my profiles to OFF when I updated from old driver, making them feel weaker. Not sure if that was a bug or an oddity but I did have to change that settings for all my profiles.
Comments
Ok...well that's not what I wanted to hear. At least it's in a usable state right now. Don't want to RMA again
If you are sure it started with this firmware, use the downgrade function to go back to an earlier version to see if it solves the issue again.
Check if the power cable is properly inserted and not loose, wiggle it slightly to see if the base turns off.
Check the power button if it appears to actuate too easily or might have another defect which could lead to turning off the base.
Check the cable connection and kill-switch if you have one.
Check if the power supply LED is turning off for a second when the base shuts off, this would indicate a PSU defect or that the DD is drawing too much power.
Thanks, glad you could figure it out with my hint.
It might be unrelated but we are currently after another case where someone says his FFB is worse and more noisy with USB 3.0 but when he connects the base to USB 2.0 it's smooth and fine. In case you have it connected to 3.0 give the 2.0 port a try to see if it makes a difference.
Thanks for the reply and suggestion. I think Im already using the 2.0 port on my PS5 (front).
Nevermind...like I said since tech support replaced main pcba it got much bettrr and the new clubsport rs wheel I got helps a bit with dampening because of the weight.
> I know there was an issue with the Xbox version of ACC which caused FFB to be to weak. They've applied a fix for it but sadly only for the Series X/S version of the game as they are not updating the last gen version anymore.
I've seen other threads around ACC and it's weak FFB - and I was hesitant to include it in testing to be fair because of the issues surrounding it.
> With the Podium DD there should be enough strength headroom to compensate, which FFB settings are you using and might raising them for box be an option? But I see you are using the P DD with plastic QR and therefore it has not much torque headroom available.
> I think the Forza games give options to raise the in-game strength to something up to 200% on the overall strength and individual effects, does it help to raise them for compensation?
On the old firmware I use FFB 80 in Horizon 5, both Xbox and PC. On the new firmware I tried FFB 100 on the base on Xbox and it feels limp, however, on the PC version, I was still using FFB 80. If the boost previously applied a multiplier of 2 to FFB, it feels like it's now applying a multiplier of 0.2 instead - it really does feel that lifeless on Xbox in the latest firmwares. That said - I don't notice a difference of FFB being stronger on Xbox on the old firmware if I switch. FFB 80 works fine on both platforms, only when I upgrade firmware does it become apparent that FFB is noticeably weaker on Xbox than PC. Based on the boost explanation above, I'd have expected to be having to switch settings for the old firmware, and that's not what I'm experiencing at all.
I've also tried upping the in-game strength in both Forza games, but it just gets nowhere close to the FFB 80 on PC level of force or detail, and loses all ability of being able to feel the car through the wheel. There's also the secondary downside that the Forza games synchronise their options between platforms, so if I tweaked for Xbox, then the next time I decide to play PC, I'd have to keep changing those settings.
I've some other games on both platforms I can check with, and will discount ACC going forward due to known developer issues. Figured I'd start with Microsoft titles, as I'd expect those to be more consistent across platforms.
Also just noted with the ITM stuff in Fanalab, that I can set a particular screen active then switch to the Xbox - maybe the FFB / motor screen may shed some light on the differences when in Xbox mode on the new firmware.
Cheers for your time (and explanation on the boost stuff) Marcel. I'll do some more digging from the above info (other games, ITM screen) and get back to you with findings, I'll just need some time to work through different games/platforms/firmwares etc.
Kind Regards,
Steve.
Need help!
I'm on driver 439. Fanatec Control Panel notified me of motor update so I downloaded and installed. This was obviously bad. DD1 fan was now at 100% and windows does not recognize it. Followed instructions from https://admin.forum.fanatec.com/uploads/187/VZWXOL7O4SEJ.pdf by holding power button for 10 seconds and flashing firmware.
Fan is no longer at 100%, however Windows 10 nor Fanatec Control Panel recognizes the base/wheel/pedals. Everything worked fine before the update. Suggestions?
UPDATE: Changed USB ports and now it's recognized! So what is the proper way to update? Download driver 443 and then update with the green button?
"So what is the proper way to update? Download driver 443 and then update with the green button?"
Yes exactly.
Yep just got it done. BTW your ACC profiles are fantastic. Thank you for sharing them, I appreciate it!
The upgrade from 439 to 443 was trouble free for me. DD1 & Formula V2 wheel. The FFB does feel a lot different. It might be in my head, but I feel I need to turn up the settings with 443. I don't drive a common car (Lotus 49 on iRacing) so I can't just load up the new Fanalab profiles.
Its one of the settings, I think Linearity. It turns itself ON with the new driver, I personall like it off - which should allow you to use similar strengths etc. as before.
Linearity is a setting which was renamed to Force Feedback Scaling a long time ago. You can choose between Peak and Linear FFS setting. The default value is Peak, therefore FFS defaults to Peak, not Linear. For the toggle status Peak = On, Linear = Off. So if you want the most strength FFS needs to be set to Peak (On).
When I updated to 442 with old firmware a month or so ago, my DD1 felt amazing. Like I had a new wheel. I was in love.
when I updated to 443 and new firmware a few days ago, it felt like I had a Logitech wheel. So notchy, zero smoothness. I am still using the same recommended settings for iracing, but it just feels worse now.
you know when you turn the wheel, and you start to feel where the limit of the tyre grip is? Whenever I get near there, it feels like I’m driving over a small rumble strip or something. Every time, Feels like the wheel is ‘low frequency’ clicking during turning.
someone else agreed with me about this on Facebook. Am so disappointed. ‘Ffb is subjective’ as people say, but My experience went from way better to way worse so fast
442 with old Firmware was the same as 439 with the same old firmware as a Driver alone Doesnt change FFB. It's only the Firmwares which change FFB Feeling.
Sounds like your base might be broken somehow and you should contact the support as everyone else agrees that the FFB feels SIGNIFICANTLY better with the new firmwares.
It would be a bit of a coincidence for my 16-month-old base to ‘break’ within the same 10 minutes that I updated to the new firmware though..
is there a log in fanatec control panel that shows what previous firmware I was using? I’d like to try going back to make sure I’m not going crazy. A FFB telemetry would probably probably show what I’m describing pretty clearly.
and yes, 442 was significantly better, I was so happy. 443 and new firmware feels completely different to me
As said, 442 is the same as 439 and also the same as 443 when using the old Firmware. Only the new Firmwares can change the FFB, the Driver alone cant do such magic. So the FFB feels the same when using Driver 439, 442 or 443 with the old Base FIrmware 691 and Motor Firmware v42.
But yes, in the Driver there is a "Collect Logs" Button which then collects some log data. When you open it and have a look in the files "Fw Base Updater.log" and/or "FwControlPanelV2" then you can see, with a bit of search, the exact Firmwares you ever used.
On my CSWv2 now i only have SEN and FFB! No DRI, SPR, DMP, FOR or anything only SEN and FFB!! IS this how it is supposed to be?
That's supposed to be because there is a new Standard Tuning Menu with limited settings since a year according to the (not skippable) Changelog description.
You can enter the "old" Advanced Tuning Menu by pressing the Tuning Menu Button for 3 seconds while being in the Tuning Menu.
Oh wow, thanks. Ive been on 381 for quite some time, never new about this "feature". Thanks mate.
Driver feels great bty.
If the new firmware and driver settings have changed how the force feedback feels on the base, doesn’t that mean fanatec need to update the ‘recommended settings’ for each game that they have recommended settings for?
I made this noob video a while ago, helping people get rid of the metal clunk noise that people have (force effect intensity). But still the recommended settings are FEI at 100. It feels so Logitech at 100
https://youtu.be/wvNwELdHARI
After a long time i connected ClubSport RS wheel. Got notification to update it from v2 to v3. When i try to update it, control panel freezes. Other wheels update fine. Proper reinstall of the drivers also didn't help. Is there any known issues with 443 drivers with RS wheel?
Sorry for off-topic but how do you like the Lotus 49 since it was updated some time ago? When I tried it the first time (before the updates) I didn't like it at all but after the last update it seemed to be much better. Need to give it another try because I generally love these kind of analogue cars, the are sadly just way too underpopulated online. Was one of my favorite cars in AC.
Are you maybe using a P DD without torque key or with a wheel which has a plastic QR? Because in low-torque-mode the setting is now always linear. But this doesn't change the behavior in low-torque-mode at all because the difference between linear mode and peak mode is only relevant with higher forces closer to the limit of what the motor can deliver (FFB ~75 and above)
There were now FFB changes between driver 442 and 443 and no such thing was reported from others.
Make sure the settings are really the same, if you feel vibrations on the limit it's probably an effect from the game (which game do you play?) and you can use the two filtering effects of the Tuning Menu to dial it in. First I would make sure INT (Interpolation) is not set to 0 but more something between 3-6. If there is still unwanted vibration you can try to reduce FEI to 90 or 80. However it can be a wanted an realistic effect from the game (if not over exaggerated) which can give you good info on where the limit is. ACC has a good dynamic and good vibration when approaching the limit, in GT Sport and GT7 it's scripted and can be a bit too harsh. Some other sims don't have it at all though.
I wouldn't immediately jump on the "hardware defect" conclusion, I rather think it's something with the settings.
Another thing could be that the Motor Sensor Calibration needs to get re-run.
FEI is suggested at 100 because it's the most responsive setting, following the intended FFB signal most precisely. FEI 90 or 80 can be used for personal preference to counter unwanted vibration effects but I personally would not suggest to go lower as it can create input lag and cause oscillation. A setting which works better to solve unwanted noise and vibration is the interpolation setting (INT). It's a less harsh filter which doesn't introduce as much downsides as FEI.
From another user here on the forum I've heard that he had unwanted vibration in the FFB when using his USB 3.1 port for the P DD and he could resolve it by using USB 2.0 instead. Maybe it's worth to give that a try, let me know if the behavior changes for you.
So far I don't know an issue with that wheel and updates.
Which Base do you have? Then I'll give it a try.
Something you could try:
Still doesn't work. I'm on DD2 (third one, base is almost new). Mclaren updated fine to v35. I tried to re-flash BMW v2 also went fine. The only problem is RS. Past updates were fine. V3 is the first one that freezes (stuck on "Please wait")
Can you try with a different USB port? USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 for example?
Or a different PC/Laptop if available?
Have you tried my tip of turning the wheel to a different position before starting the update?
Yes i tried with different angles. Even on secondary PC. And with 440 if i could reflash v2. Nothing works
Ah yes sorry I just double checked its FFS and i have it at ON and I think it switched all my profiles to OFF when I updated from old driver, making them feel weaker. Not sure if that was a bug or an oddity but I did have to change that settings for all my profiles.