Wheel Base Model (product ID): FANATEC CSL Elite Wheel Base PlayStation 4 Steering Wheel Model (product ID): P1 Driver Version: v346 Base FW Version: v664 Wheel FW Version: n/a
Motor FW Version: v22
First time trying out the new Base FW v664 with driver v346 and Motor FW v22. After 20 minutes racing on Assetto Corsa the wheel just turned off. All lights went out. Trying to turn it back on only the first 3 yellow lights came on and the power light/mode light was slowly flashing red.
After a full power cycle of the Wheel (kept the PC on) I flashed the Motor to FW v18. Has another 30 minute race and all worked well.
Only thing I changed was the Motor FW - all seems okay now.
additional note. the Motor FW v18 is so much better than v20 and v22 for wheel feedback and responsiveness (I have been using v20 since it came out in this beta forum, I have done several hundred hours with it and I feel v18 gives much better feedback).
I ask because I had a Sitecom USB hub and somehow this thing just caused all sorts of weird stuff to happen. From wheel shutdowns and restarts to the clubsport pedals whilst on USB starting to flicker (as if you have a broken load cell or sensor).
Thanks for the reply but sadly this would not have solved it, it is plugged straight in to the back panel of the motherboard USB3.0, the port could be failing but as I mentioned the only thing different from hundreds of hours of racing is the Motor Firmware. I have gone back to motor v18 and so far after 90 minutes of racing over two session all is well. With v22 I only managed 20 minutes before it shutdown.
Interesting point if others are experiencing issues and have not considered this :-)
I remember having this same problem on my old PC (3-4 years ago) I didn't find the cause, but the fix for me was I bought a powered USB 3, 12 port hub, no more problem after that, still using the hub on my new PC...Not saying go and buy a powered hub and all will be OK...But it made me think "Maybe I was overloading my USB ports"....I don't know in this case, with a newer PC, that shouldn't be happening? I hope you get it sorted, I know just how frustrating this is.
Wheel Base Model (product ID): FANATEC CSL Elite Wheel Base PlayStation 4 Steering Wheel Model (product ID): P1 Driver Version: v346 Base FW Version: v664 Wheel FW Version: n/a
Motor FW Version: v22
First time trying out the new Base FW v664 with driver v346 and Motor FW v22. After 20 minutes racing on Assetto Corsa the wheel just turned off. All lights went out. Trying to turn it back on only the first 3 yellow lights came on and the power light/mode light was slowly flashing red.
After a full power cycle of the Wheel (kept the PC on) I flashed the Motor to FW v18. Has another 30 minute race and all worked well.
Only thing I changed was the Motor FW - all seems okay now.
additional note. the Motor FW v18 is so much better than v20 and v22 for wheel feedback and responsiveness (I have been using v20 since it came out in this beta forum, I have done several hundred hours with it and I feel v18 gives much better feedback).
I ask because I had a Sitecom USB hub and somehow this thing just caused all sorts of weird stuff to happen. From wheel shutdowns and restarts to the clubsport pedals whilst on USB starting to flicker (as if you have a broken load cell or sensor).
Thanks for the reply but sadly this would not have solved it, it is plugged straight in to the back panel of the motherboard USB3.0, the port could be failing but as I mentioned the only thing different from hundreds of hours of racing is the Motor Firmware. I have gone back to motor v18 and so far after 90 minutes of racing over two session all is well. With v22 I only managed 20 minutes before it shutdown.
Interesting point if others are experiencing issues and have not considered this :-)
I remember having this same problem on my old PC (3-4 years ago) I didn't find the cause, but the fix for me was I bought a powered USB 3, 12 port hub, no more problem after that, still using the hub on my new PC...Not saying go and buy a powered hub and all will be OK...But it made me think "Maybe I was overloading my USB ports"....I don't know in this case, with a newer PC, that shouldn't be happening? I hope you get it sorted, I know just how frustrating this is.
Actually, I have this powered 'Sitecom CN-062 7-port Powered USB 2.0 hub'. It doesn't work for some reason or it's under-powered. In any case... definitely steer away from the one I've got!
Wheel Base Model (product ID): FANATEC CSL Elite Wheel Base PlayStation 4 Steering Wheel Model (product ID): P1 Driver Version: v346 Base FW Version: v664 Wheel FW Version: n/a
Motor FW Version: v22
First time trying out the new Base FW v664 with driver v346 and Motor FW v22. After 20 minutes racing on Assetto Corsa the wheel just turned off. All lights went out. Trying to turn it back on only the first 3 yellow lights came on and the power light/mode light was slowly flashing red.
After a full power cycle of the Wheel (kept the PC on) I flashed the Motor to FW v18. Has another 30 minute race and all worked well.
Only thing I changed was the Motor FW - all seems okay now.
additional note. the Motor FW v18 is so much better than v20 and v22 for wheel feedback and responsiveness (I have been using v20 since it came out in this beta forum, I have done several hundred hours with it and I feel v18 gives much better feedback).
I ask because I had a Sitecom USB hub and somehow this thing just caused all sorts of weird stuff to happen. From wheel shutdowns and restarts to the clubsport pedals whilst on USB starting to flicker (as if you have a broken load cell or sensor).
Thanks for the reply but sadly this would not have solved it, it is plugged straight in to the back panel of the motherboard USB3.0, the port could be failing but as I mentioned the only thing different from hundreds of hours of racing is the Motor Firmware. I have gone back to motor v18 and so far after 90 minutes of racing over two session all is well. With v22 I only managed 20 minutes before it shutdown.
Interesting point if others are experiencing issues and have not considered this :-)
I remember having this same problem on my old PC (3-4 years ago) I didn't find the cause, but the fix for me was I bought a powered USB 3, 12 port hub, no more problem after that, still using the hub on my new PC...Not saying go and buy a powered hub and all will be OK...But it made me think "Maybe I was overloading my USB ports"....I don't know in this case, with a newer PC, that shouldn't be happening? I hope you get it sorted, I know just how frustrating this is.
Actually, I have this powered 'Sitecom CN-062 7-port Powered USB 2.0 hub'. It doesn't work for some reason or it's under-powered. In any case... definitely steer away from the one I've got!
Yeah! I would stay clear of that one too..Lol!...I spent quite a bit on my one, if I can, I go for the best, Here is the 10 port version
Honestly don't know how to help you... For me it worked...
I assume that when you try to update the windows closed but nothing happens and you have to restart the base...
Try reflashing the base first with no wheel attached, and than try to flash the wheel. Also try with driver 346 since this one is not even good for DD's...
Wheel Base Model (product ID): FANATEC CSL Elite Wheel Base PlayStation 4 Steering Wheel Model (product ID): P1 Driver Version: v346 Base FW Version: v664 Wheel FW Version: n/a
Motor FW Version: v22
First time trying out the new Base FW v664 with driver v346 and Motor FW v22. After 20 minutes racing on Assetto Corsa the wheel just turned off. All lights went out. Trying to turn it back on only the first 3 yellow lights came on and the power light/mode light was slowly flashing red.
After a full power cycle of the Wheel (kept the PC on) I flashed the Motor to FW v18. Has another 30 minute race and all worked well.
Only thing I changed was the Motor FW - all seems okay now.
additional note. the Motor FW v18 is so much better than v20 and v22 for wheel feedback and responsiveness (I have been using v20 since it came out in this beta forum, I have done several hundred hours with it and I feel v18 gives much better feedback).
I ask because I had a Sitecom USB hub and somehow this thing just caused all sorts of weird stuff to happen. From wheel shutdowns and restarts to the clubsport pedals whilst on USB starting to flicker (as if you have a broken load cell or sensor).
Thanks for the reply but sadly this would not have solved it, it is plugged straight in to the back panel of the motherboard USB3.0, the port could be failing but as I mentioned the only thing different from hundreds of hours of racing is the Motor Firmware. I have gone back to motor v18 and so far after 90 minutes of racing over two session all is well. With v22 I only managed 20 minutes before it shutdown.
Interesting point if others are experiencing issues and have not considered this :-)
I remember having this same problem on my old PC (3-4 years ago) I didn't find the cause, but the fix for me was I bought a powered USB 3, 12 port hub, no more problem after that, still using the hub on my new PC...Not saying go and buy a powered hub and all will be OK...But it made me think "Maybe I was overloading my USB ports"....I don't know in this case, with a newer PC, that shouldn't be happening? I hope you get it sorted, I know just how frustrating this is.
Actually, I have this powered 'Sitecom CN-062 7-port Powered USB 2.0 hub'. It doesn't work for some reason or it's under-powered. In any case... definitely steer away from the one I've got!
Yeah! I would stay clear of that one too..Lol!...I spent quite a bit on my one, if I can, I go for the best, Here is the 10 port version
Thanks mate. I'll have a look if I can get one over here. Most stuff we get in the stores here is the same crap from store to store, same supplier I guess.
I went with the new firmware and software for many hours over the weekend. For me it is currently the best implementation of the current effects. I only play ACC and therefore can not judge otherwise. I have no connection breaks through the USB port or other problems.
Wheel Base Model (product ID): CSW Base 2.5
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Porsche 918 Driver Version: v347 Base FW Version: v664 Wheel FW Version: default Motor FW Version: v22
Yes... I had a fellow sim Racer over and He has a v2 and he has No issue with the new Dr 347 and wheel FW ... also that's what I been Reading that for the v2 and v2 5 the New FW is the Best.... Its only bad on the DD2/DD1.
Came here to say I just updated to the newest driver and firmware agian. Just giving it another try. I have to say the chirping is totally gone. It's so silent now.
I'm on a DD1 with firmware 347, base firmware 664, motor firmware 34, win10 latest, it works for the most part, but have to use the Fanatec Wheel Property Page/Tuning menu and set (SEN) to 1080 degrees, on startup and every time i change a setting, or it defaults to 2360 degrees, so that's a pain;-) but it's manageable..
Is your motor calibrated? Press the tuning menu button and D-Pad down to see which ACV version you have on your base. Also, driver 347 and the new motor firmware v34 has some issues as you might have read already here and it is suggested to skip this version if you have a DD and stay on 346 with firmware 662 and motor v30 according to the first sentence of this thread and known issues list.
I went with the new firmware and software for many hours over the weekend. For me it is currently the best implementation of the current effects. I only play ACC and therefore can not judge otherwise. I have no connection breaks through the USB port or other problems.
Wheel Base Model (product ID): CSW Base 2.5
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Porsche 918 Driver Version: v347 Base FW Version: v664 Wheel FW Version: default Motor FW Version: v22
Yes I agree on assetto coraa its incresible but it isnt the best on other gamea. I was shocked at how smooth it is on assetto corsa. There sre others like f1 2019 it actually felt worse with. The tension from driver 336 was nice on f2019 now the wheel is a little looser overall as im sure you noticed. So in the middle of the wheel its not as tight at first turn. It does still feel good but it feels much better on assetto corsa but again in other games including projects cars 2 and others it isnt as good. Also there is alot of feel yes but almost ro much in places unwanted noise and shaking to the point where it can make my wheel rattle. I love the detail on this last update def some of the best yet but you have to use gei to drown out some unwanted effects. Not even nosie just unwanted ffb that probably shouldnt be there. But the grsat thing is fanatec gives you settings to fix this and make it feel the way you want it to. You know if they could make the tension the same as the v336 when on and the smootheness of this last update that would be the perfect combo. The issue is ive noticed when they make it tighter it seems they cant keep is smooth. I just loved the feel of the grip on the driver v336 you felt like the car was pkanted so nicely. But then again the detial on this version is incredible something inbetween would be great. I liek the free flowing feeling. The drift lode def seems to be softer no not as strong at -5 its def a looser wheel on this lsst uodate I went abck and foward to check and it really is. You know that sayong loose but tight. Where the wheel is looser and mrow freeflowing but when the fdb is on its tight as it should be. Well if they could keep it free flowing like this and make it as tight as 336 was with ffb on it would be absolutely perfect I just loevd the way turning felt on v336 you could feel it hugging the corners and the wheels felt so so planted. This one does feel grest tons of feel detail on the road more then 336 just add that feel of the tires being planted and grip would be great. Dont get me wrong this one you cna still feel the tires very well it just seemed with the other you really felt like you could push it around the corners without spinning or losing grip. I will say overall its still a good compromise ivr just noticed in other titles it doesnt feel as good but assetto corsa yes its probsbaly the best ive felt also and thats with sny wheel.it has as much detail as even the dd wheels have. 1 other thing the steering doesnt seem as sensitive. Meaning not becaus eit was twitchy or anything it seemed like before it turned tighter. You didnt have to turn the wheel as much as now. I dont know that part may be in my head but who knows. I do know you guys fixed the sensiticiry screena dn the auto adjsutments so mabye that got bumped eho knows but it still does feel great overall.
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): ....: P WB DD2 AU Driver Version: ....V664 Base FW Version: ....34
Wheel FW Version: ....28
Wasn't going to install this beta edition but after installing Xbox pass for PC to get DIRT RALLY2 Windows 10 required a big download.
When I turned the wheel on Win10 gave me a message about installing drivers for the wheel and the wheel become very strong and I needed popeye arms to turn it. No idea what driver Windows put on so I went to this beta driver.
Now getting a very heavy grinding noise and vibrations from the base, have done Erase Motor Sensor Calibration and then didMotor Sensor Calibration and couldn't notice any difference and then I erased it again. Have turned down FEI to 70 and no difference.
Now annoying as it is my main concern is that I will do damage to the DD2 so may avoid driving until I learn what is best
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): ....: P WB DD2 AU Driver Version: ....V664 Base FW Version: ....34
Wheel FW Version: ....28
Wasn't going to install this beta edition but after installing Xbox pass for PC to get DIRT RALLY2 Windows 10 required a big download.
When I turned the wheel on Win10 gave me a message about installing drivers for the wheel and the wheel become very strong and I needed popeye arms to turn it. No idea what driver Windows put on so I went to this beta driver.
Now getting a very heavy grinding noise and vibrations from the base, have done Erase Motor Sensor Calibration and then didMotor Sensor Calibration and couldn't notice any difference and then I erased it again. Have turned down FEI to 70 and no difference.
Now annoying as it is my main concern is that I will do damage to the DD2 so may avoid driving until I learn what is best
Go back to driver 346 and included firmwares. Driver 347 is not officially DD supported as you can't find the DD name in the title and also in the first post and known issues you can find hints that DD users might want to skip this version because of bad FFB noise and vibrations. Btw. Windows never installs a Fanatec driver, only a generic USB driver so you have to install a driver in windows manually.
I was happy with 346 but on this newish system and will go back, may even go back to the non-beta version. I assume when you install these they will give you a chance to update the firmware ( or in this case downdate)
I saw this 4. Podium DD now supports up to 2520 degrees of rotation in the [SEN] Sensitivity setting of the Tuning Menu. So I assunmed it did support the DD
ok, message is given when you rollback your firmware about the firmware you want to install is older and you have to uninstall fanatec drivers before installing older ones.....maybe some consistency and you can do that just like the firmware...you get a message that the drivers are older ones and do you still want to install
I went with the new firmware and software for many hours over the weekend. For me it is currently the best implementation of the current effects. I only play ACC and therefore can not judge otherwise. I have no connection breaks through the USB port or other problems.
Wheel Base Model (product ID): CSW Base 2.5
Steering Wheel Model (product ID): Porsche 918 Driver Version: v347 Base FW Version: v664 Wheel FW Version: default Motor FW Version: v22
Yes I agree on assetto coraa its incresible but it isnt the best on other gamea. I was shocked at how smooth it is on assetto corsa. There sre others like f1 2019 it actually felt worse with. The tension from driver 336 was nice on f2019 now the wheel is a little looser overall as im sure you noticed. So in the middle of the wheel its not as tight at first turn. It does still feel good but it feels much better on assetto corsa but again in other games including projects cars 2 and others it isnt as good. Also there is alot of feel yes but almost ro much in places unwanted noise and shaking to the point where it can make my wheel rattle. I love the detail on this last update def some of the best yet but you have to use gei to drown out some unwanted effects. Not even nosie just unwanted ffb that probably shouldnt be there. But the grsat thing is fanatec gives you settings to fix this and make it feel the way you want it to. You know if they could make the tension the same as the v336 when on and the smootheness of this last update that would be the perfect combo. The issue is ive noticed when they make it tighter it seems they cant keep is smooth. I just loved the feel of the grip on the driver v336 you felt like the car was pkanted so nicely. But then again the detial on this version is incredible something inbetween would be great. I liek the free flowing feeling. The drift lode def seems to be softer no not as strong at -5 its def a looser wheel on this lsst uodate I went abck and foward to check and it really is. You know that sayong loose but tight. Where the wheel is looser and mrow freeflowing but when the fdb is on its tight as it should be. Well if they could keep it free flowing like this and make it as tight as 336 was with ffb on it would be absolutely perfect I just loevd the way turning felt on v336 you could feel it hugging the corners and the wheels felt so so planted. This one does feel grest tons of feel detail on the road more then 336 just add that feel of the tires being planted and grip would be great. Dont get me wrong this one you cna still feel the tires very well it just seemed with the other you really felt like you could push it around the corners without spinning or losing grip. I will say overall its still a good compromise ivr just noticed in other titles it doesnt feel as good but assetto corsa yes its probsbaly the best ive felt also and thats with sny wheel.it has as much detail as even the dd wheels have. 1 other thing the steering doesnt seem as sensitive. Meaning not becaus eit was twitchy or anything it seemed like before it turned tighter. You didnt have to turn the wheel as much as now. I dont know that part may be in my head but who knows. I do know you guys fixed the sensiticiry screena dn the auto adjsutments so mabye that got bumped eho knows but it still does feel great overall.
Hi, I'm from the logitech G27 and have no problems with the noise of a steering wheel. What only bothers me are high frequency sounds. They are no longer available thanks to the Motor Firmware v22. The fact that a steering wheel rattles and makes noise lies in the nature of things. A car also does the same, if you drive over curbs, it rappels too. If the FFB does not feel good on the steering wheel, it is often due to the games. PC2, Race07, RF2, it feels totally boring. AC has a good FFB but ACC is the absolute FFB champion. The games of Codesmasters all have no special great FFB. If I think dirt, or play to the GRID. Everything is not really exciting. The Fanatec Wheels work best with ACC.
Hi, I did not want to talk bad about RF2 right now. I'm sorry, that should not come over. I personally prefer the comparison between ACC and RF2, etc. The FFB in all games is ok. For me the feedback at ACC is simply the best. You just tell that there was a lot of time and reingesteckt work, which was also the technology brings. In games that was developed for the masses, as all Codemaster games, you realize that there is the FFB rather rudimentary and the focus is on controller control.
Comments
I remember having this same problem on my old PC (3-4 years ago) I didn't find the cause, but the fix for me was I bought a powered USB 3, 12 port hub, no more problem after that, still using the hub on my new PC...Not saying go and buy a powered hub and all will be OK...But it made me think "Maybe I was overloading my USB ports"....I don't know in this case, with a newer PC, that shouldn't be happening? I hope you get it sorted, I know just how frustrating this is.
So hurrah for webshops.
Driver Version: v347
Base FW Version: v664
Wheel FW Version: default
Motor FW Version: v22
Driver Version: ....V664
Base FW Version: ....34
I'm from the logitech G27 and have no problems with the noise of a steering wheel. What only bothers me are high frequency sounds. They are no longer available thanks to the Motor Firmware v22. The fact that a steering wheel rattles and makes noise lies in the nature of things. A car also does the same, if you drive over curbs, it rappels too. If the FFB does not feel good on the steering wheel, it is often due to the games. PC2, Race07, RF2, it feels totally boring. AC has a good FFB but ACC is the absolute FFB champion. The games of Codesmasters all have no special great FFB. If I think dirt, or play to the GRID. Everything is not really exciting. The Fanatec Wheels work best with ACC.
I did not want to talk bad about RF2 right now. I'm sorry, that should not come over. I personally prefer the comparison between ACC and RF2, etc. The FFB in all games is ok. For me the feedback at ACC is simply the best. You just tell that there was a lot of time and reingesteckt work, which was also the technology brings. In games that was developed for the masses, as all Codemaster games, you realize that there is the FFB rather rudimentary and the focus is on controller control.