The PU foam in the V3 pedals is a Real Head Ache to get to... its Not impossible but a Real Head Ache... i used Teflon Dry Lube to Lube the PU foam and all parts... Ive been using that same Dry lube for years on my V1 pedals and it works Great... I Took the V1 Pedals apart Last Night to inspect the PU Foam and the PU Foam is Good as New!!! Ive Been Lubing them since 2010 with Teflon Dry Lube.
Edit: Brake Pedal Feels Much Smoother. Also Noticed that the Pedal Base was Not Completly sitting Flat... Once i Straighted that out it Seems that May Have Fixed My Random Brake Pedal Spike issue (***FW1.12*** NOT NEW PEDAL FW IN 226 THAT PEDAL FW IS BORKED)because i didnt have any random Brake issues for the rest of the Night ( 6+Hrs ) Check the V1 Video about how to Flatten Square the Pedal Base... ts at 8:30 in the vid
Then I will do so myself...I don't like the feel of the brake pedal at all. Can you please give us the link to that V1 vid Grimey
Take out the usb plug out of your pc, close the Fanatec application, start up Fanatec application again, plug in the usb plug and then the V3s should appear.
The PU foam in the V3 pedals is a Real Head Ache to get to... its Not impossible but a Real Head Ache... i used Teflon Dry Lube to Lube the PU foam and all parts... Ive been using that same Dry lube for years on my V1 pedals and it works Great... I Took the V1 Pedals apart Last Night to inspect the PU Foam and the PU Foam is Good as New!!! Ive Been Lubing them since 2010 with Teflon Dry Lube
Edit: Brake Pedal Feels Much Smoother. Also Noticed that the Pedal Base was Not Completly sitting Flat... Once i Straighted that out it Seems that May Have Fixed My Random Brake Pedal Spike issue (***FW1.12*** NOT NEW PEDAL FW IN 226 THAT PEDAL FW IS BORKED)because i didnt have any random Brake issues for the rest of the Night ( 6+Hrs ) Check the V1 Video about how to Flatten Square the Pedal Base... ts at 8:30 in the vid
Then I will do so myself...I don't like the feel of the brake pedal at all. Can you please give us the link to that V1 vid Grimey
Its the Same Fanatec V1 Video that was posted earlier in the thread. I Also went back to pedal FW 1.08... Vey Very Stable.
Edit.. Like the Feel of FW 226 on the wheel but it has issues with reading the pedals...EX: after a while of playing the Gas, Brake pedal will Not work in the Tuning Menu, Neither will the Controler Gas trigger work... But it will work when on the Track... Very Strange... I did Not have this problem with any other FW only 226. It seems like my Randon Brake pedal Spikes were mostly caused by the pedal base not being Flat/Straight.
PU foam is inside the brake pedal cylinder, there are two foam pieces between metal rod and load cell. I took them apart following procedure for V1 pedals, not sure if there is a better way.
One poster here replaced one PU foam out of two with metal rod from CSP v2 tuning kit, to decrease travel.
after a while of playing the Gas, Brake pedal will Not work in the Tuning Menu, Neither will the Controler Gas trigger work... But it will work when on the Track... Very Strange...
That must be a game problem, wheel or pedal firmware can't stop the controller from working.
after a while of playing the Gas, Brake pedal will Not work in the Tuning Menu, Neither will the Controler Gas trigger work... But it will work when on the Track... Very Strange...
That must be a game problem, wheel or pedal firmware can't stop the controller from working.
i Does Not Happen with any other FW so it has to be a Issue with fw 226 causing PCars to Some how Not Read the Controlir properly
Antoine, the word from Fanatec regarding the PU foam is to put a light coating of "technical Vaseline " on the foam ... the important part is that the lube is not water based.... here are the e-mail response from Fanatec tech support:; for those in the US ... old fashioned Vaseline should do the trick.
The petroleum vaseline should have the same specifications and therefore work.
The label says technical petroleum jelly on the products we use. The most important part is that the vaseline is not based on water.
put a thin layer directly on the foam and you can also put some of the lubricant on to the rod.
ok, will someone from Fanatec clear this up ?? I sent that picture to Fanatec tech support and they replied as posted above... what's the real deal Fanatec??
after a while of playing the Gas, Brake pedal will Not work in the Tuning Menu, Neither will the Controler Gas trigger work... But it will work when on the Track... Very Strange...
That must be a game problem, wheel or pedal firmware can't stop the controller from working.
i Does Not Happen with any other FW so it has to be a Issue with fw 226 causing PCars to Some how Not Read the Controlir properly
Maybe a CSP v3 or PS4 issue then. Using 226 on xbox with CSP v1 is spot on (since patch 3.0) and I've been in the menus alot. Only need the controller to change the scoreboards to friends (right stick click) Any other button for that option would save me using the controller all together, exept chat of course, poor choice by game developers.
I will Not Suggest that any one use any Specific Product.. I am Not a Fanatec Employee... I will say that i Have been using this Teflon Dry Lube on My V1 Pedals Since 2010... a Picture is worth 1000 words so take a Look at the Pics and Make your own Decision.
Im Not particular to Technical Pettolium Jelly.. 1) it attracks too Much Dust 2) Its Too Messy and Thick 3) My PU foam Cyliner was almost Bone Dry as Most of the Tecnical Vasseline had squeezed out because its Too thick and Does Not Compress with out Squeezing out.
Teflon Dry Lube is Not a Liquid thats the important part... Its like a Million telflon Micro Marbles... Teflon has No Stick and Very Low Friction properties. Reserch it.
Day 2 Using the V3 pedals and FW 1.08 and No Random Brake pedal Spikes!!! I even set my Dead Zone back to 0% in PS4 PCars on Wheel FW from Dvr 222... Im Loving it... The Joy of Racing is Back!!! Ran a 1:25.054 on watkins Glen( longest 1) with the Ruff RS-8 GT3 with a Stock Suspension... Not even Aero was added!!!
after a while of playing the Gas, Brake pedal will Not work in the Tuning Menu, Neither will the Controler Gas trigger work... But it will work when on the Track... Very Strange...
That must be a game problem, wheel or pedal firmware can't stop the controller from working.
i Does Not Happen with any other FW so it has to be a Issue with fw 226 causing PCars to Some how Not Read the Controlir properly
Maybe a CSP v3 or PS4 issue then. Using 226 on xbox with CSP v1 is spot on (since patch 3.0) and I've been in the menus alot. Only need the controller to change the scoreboards to friends (right stick click) Any other button for that option would save me using the controller all together, exept chat of course, poor choice by game developers.
Well...on the XOne hub we DO have a RSB (right stick button) but because of that idiotic M$ button protocol, we CAN'T use it as a RightStickButton!!!
Day 2 Using the V3 pedals and FW 1.08 and No Random Brake pedal Spikes!!! I even set my Dead Zone back to 0% in PS4 PCars on Wheel FW from Dvr 222... Im Loving it... The Joy of Racing is Back!!! Ran a 1:25.054 on watkins Glen( longest 1) with the Ruff RS-8 GT3 with a Stock Suspension... Not even Aero was added!!!
Well..if you are using it since 2010 on your V1s...I thrust you completely and will do the same...and also downgrade to 222 with the 1.8. Cause things that happening now on XOne and PCars...UNMOttahF-in believable. My BMW M1 PC at Zolder acts like in a real car the cpu goes crazy!!! Randomly no brakes...half brake in while not touching them...going flat out while steering like a madman. No throttle when touching and full throttle while not touching...really REALLY weird shot happening. LoL
PS4 Pcars Stock tune Note even Aero was added... using my FFB Tweek v#009 The Brake Pedal Feels Sooo much smoother with thge Dry Teflon Lube!!! All Pedal problems are Fixed and Now Back to Running 0% Dead Zone on Brake and sooo far No more Random Brake Pedal Spikes!!! My Pedal Base was Not Straight and Level... I Fixed it to Straight and level same as in the CSP v1 Video. The PU Foam is a bit of a Head Ache to get to so make sure what ever your choice of lube that its good you dont want to take the pedals apart every 3 months to lube them!!! as for me im sticking with my Dry Teflon Lube its worked for me since 2010 on my V1 pedals.
i recieved my first fanatec product , the CSP v3 , last week and it looks great and feels great but i just have own doubt, i cannot get the vibration motors workin in any sim that i play ( rFactor 2 , asseeto Corsa and iRacing)(works perfectly calibration screen) ...i am using the 219 drivers and the firmware version is 1.7 ...how should i get the vibration motors to work in game ?? thank you
Well, my pedal base is mounted on the RS1 pedal plate...rock solid, so I don't think that's the problem with mine! I'll go and have a look in a car parts store for the lube and fix it this coming weekend!!
Well, my pedal base is mounted on the RS1 pedal plate...rock solid, so I don't think that's the problem with mine! I'll go and have a look in a car parts store for the lube and fix it this coming weekend!!
Go to a Bycycle Shop or Hardware Store auto Shop May Not Have It... Its Bycycle Chain Lube/General Teflon Lube... If you Look at the Video Closely when Thomas was Putting the Pedals Back Together thats what he was using except he had a Squeeze Bottle of it... I like tbe Spray because i get the long Red Nozzle so i can Spray into Small Spaces Neatly
I have the loadcell set to full braking (Brake Force in the wheel at max) and I can get full braking without my chair moving back while on the CSP V2 I couldn't even go to halfway on the loadcell without my chair moving back. Apparently the CSP V3 has a 90 Kg (about 200 lbs) loadcell; I believe that is much more than the V2 yet I am getting full braking on the V3 with what would equal to maybe only 30% of force on the V2 (when set to maximum loadcell force). It's quite pathetic actually.
Also, I don't see any setting to adjust the loadcell in the control panel, only on the wheel (I thought either way was an option when connected directly to the wheel). I tried with auto calibration on and off.
FYI I am using the ClubSport Wheel Base V2 w/ the Porsche 918 RSR rim. Because the quick start guide as well as the user guide is a joke when it comes to explaining firmware updates for the base, rim, and pedals, what I did was first update the firmware with no rim or pedals connected - just the base, then do another firmware update but with the rim connected, and finally do yet another firmware update but with the pedals (along with the rim) connected. So I'm pretty sure everything is all up to date. Driver is V226 (BETA) and firmware is V116.
Anyone know what is wrong? Did I seriously receive a broken unit???
The Biggest Selling Point for me with he V3 pedals was the 12bit Resolution IE:1024 points of Movement when connected to wheel - VS- V1 & V2 8bit Resolution 256 points of movement when conncted to the wheel
CSP v2 = 8bit 256 connected to the wheel. 1024 Connected to PC by usb
CSP v3 = 12bit 1024 Connected to wheel 1024 Connected to pc by usb
Hi!!
Does anyone know how many bits are CSP pedals V2 (Brake and Throttle)?
How many points of difference between the V2 and V3 (In iRacing)?
Grimey, allow me to correct you on the bits (and possibly on each pedal set's bits depending on connection type) and correctly answer Franciso's question. This thread is quite active and I'm therefore very surprised no one has corrected this...
8, 10, 12 or what ever bit, has nothing to do with the brake pedal, resolution is for clutch and throttle only. Pedals need to be updated by direct connection to PC with pedal firmware.
set the "BFR" in the wheel tuning menu it is set at I think 30 from the factory .... set it to 50 or higher. the higher the number the more force required to get lock up
Pedals need to be updated by direct connection to PC with pedal firmware.
Thank you, I can't believe it doesn't say this in the user or quick start guide.
set the "BFR" in the wheel tuning menu it is set at I think 30 from the factory .... set it to 50 or higher. the higher the number the more force required to get lock up
As per my previous post, I have BFR set to max, which I believe is 100, and the pedal force to get full braking is a joke compared to my V2s let alone 90 Kg / 200 lbs..
Take out the usb plug out of your pc, close the Fanatec application, start up Fanatec application again, plug in the usb plug and then the V3s should appear.
Tried that multiple times. Next time I'll be home to give it another try will be in 3-4 weeks.
Comments
Can you please give us the link to that V1 vid Grimey
I Also went back to pedal FW 1.08... Vey Very Stable.
Edit.. Like the Feel of FW 226 on the wheel but it has issues with reading the pedals...EX: after a while of playing the Gas, Brake pedal will Not work in the Tuning Menu, Neither will the Controler Gas trigger work... But it will work when on the Track... Very Strange... I did Not have this problem with any other FW only 226.
It seems like my Randon Brake pedal Spikes were mostly caused by the pedal base not being Flat/Straight.
you are welcome .... the video was the answer to one of my stupid questions.
i Does Not Happen with any other FW so it has to be a Issue with fw 226 causing PCars to Some how Not Read the Controlir properly
Antoine, the word from Fanatec regarding the PU foam is to put a light coating of "technical Vaseline " on the foam ... the important part is that the lube is not water based.... here are the e-mail response from Fanatec tech support:; for those in the US ... old fashioned Vaseline should do the trick.
Do not use petroleum based grease or lube on the PU Foam (polyurethane foam ) as this will eventually attack the chemical composition of the foam.
Vaseline is petroleum based - Technical Vaseline is silicone based.
Always use a silicone based grease or oil.
I have been using an engine breakin lube for many years with no ill effects on the foam or try this. (Energy Suspension Formula 5 pre lube)
Any other button for that option would save me using the controller all together, exept chat of course, poor choice by game developers.
Im Not particular to Technical Pettolium Jelly.. 1) it attracks too Much Dust 2) Its Too Messy and Thick 3) My PU foam Cyliner was almost Bone Dry as Most of the Tecnical Vasseline had squeezed out because its Too thick and Does Not Compress with out Squeezing out.
Teflon Dry Lube is Not a Liquid thats the important part... Its like a Million telflon Micro Marbles... Teflon has No Stick and Very Low Friction properties. Reserch it.
Cause things that happening now on XOne and PCars...UNMOttahF-in believable. My BMW M1 PC at Zolder acts like in a real car the cpu goes crazy!!! Randomly no brakes...half brake in while not touching them...going flat out while steering like a madman. No throttle when touching and full throttle while not touching...really REALLY weird shot happening. LoL
PS4 Pcars Stock tune Note even Aero was added... using my FFB Tweek v#009
The Brake Pedal Feels Sooo much smoother with thge Dry Teflon Lube!!! All Pedal problems are Fixed and Now Back to Running 0% Dead Zone on Brake and sooo far No more Random Brake Pedal Spikes!!! My Pedal Base was Not Straight and Level... I Fixed it to Straight and level same as in the CSP v1 Video.
The PU Foam is a bit of a Head Ache to get to so make sure what ever your choice of lube that its good you dont want to take the pedals apart every 3 months to lube them!!! as for me im sticking with my Dry Teflon Lube its worked for me since 2010 on my V1 pedals.
i recieved my first fanatec product , the CSP v3 , last week and it looks great and feels great but i just have own doubt,
i cannot get the vibration motors workin in any sim that i play ( rFactor 2 , asseeto Corsa and iRacing)(works perfectly calibration screen) ...i am using the 219 drivers and the firmware version is 1.7 ...how should i get the vibration motors to work in game ?? thank you
I have the loadcell set to full braking (Brake Force in the wheel at max) and I can get full braking without my chair moving back while on the CSP V2 I couldn't even go to halfway on the loadcell without my chair moving back. Apparently the CSP V3 has a 90 Kg (about 200 lbs) loadcell; I believe that is much more than the V2 yet I am getting full braking on the V3 with what would equal to maybe only 30% of force on the V2 (when set to maximum loadcell force). It's quite pathetic actually.
Also, I don't see any setting to adjust the loadcell in the control panel, only on the wheel (I thought either way was an option when connected directly to the wheel). I tried with auto calibration on and off.
FYI I am using the ClubSport Wheel Base V2 w/ the Porsche 918 RSR rim. Because the quick start guide as well as the user guide is a joke when it comes to explaining firmware updates for the base, rim, and pedals, what I did was first update the firmware with no rim or pedals connected - just the base, then do another firmware update but with the rim connected, and finally do yet another firmware update but with the pedals (along with the rim) connected. So I'm pretty sure everything is all up to date. Driver is V226 (BETA) and firmware is V116.
Anyone know what is wrong? Did I seriously receive a broken unit???
Grimey, allow me to correct you on the bits (and possibly on each pedal set's bits depending on connection type) and correctly answer Franciso's question. This thread is quite active and I'm therefore very surprised no one has corrected this...
8 bits = 256 steps
10 bits = 1024 steps
12 bits = 4096 steps
CSP v2:
8 bits = plugged into the wheel
10 bits = plugged direct to PC
CSP v3 (apparently, although I have yet to see confirmation)
10 bits = plugged into wheel
12 bits = plugged directly to PC