I am still getting lockups trying to access the control panel/ game controller settings on this driver/firmware and the previous one.
On a V2 with xbo hub CSP V3 and SQ 1.5 shifter...I dunno im going mad trying to get this fixed.
Getting Windows Shell Common.dll crash.
Hi Andrew,
did you already try to install the driver on another PC and get your Fanatec hardware properly detected there? That might show us that the issue is a unique error on your PC caused by any other drivers. Alternatively you could talk to the Fanatec Support team. They might ask you for some logs to check out what is wrong. But since nobody else is having a similar problem there might be an issue which does not happen on any other PC.
Armin, do you happen to know the reason why I need to restart the PC as of late when I freshly install the drivers? I think it's a change on the Windows 10 side of things, rather than the driver side of things though. I am on the 'Insider - Slow Ring'. It does this both with the the CSWv1 and CSWv2 btw.
The problem is that the driver neatly installs, the hardware is detected and the driver is installed for that particular USB port. Yet the moment I wish to open the Fanatec Control Panel it's stuck on the initialization screen. If you do a reboot the problem is gone.
I wonder if Microsoft changed something in the way either driver installation works (direct access to certain registry parts maybe?) or if it's maybe a change to the WDM (Windows Driver Model).
I thought I'd let you know anyhow, cause as maybe a temporary workaround you might want to enforce a reboot (or have a tick box at least) in the driver's MSI installer's finalization screen.
Armin, do you happen to know the reason why I need to restart the PC as of late when I freshly install the drivers? I think it's a change on the Windows 10 side of things, rather than the driver side of things though. I am on the 'Insider - Slow Ring'. It does this both with the the CSWv1 and CSWv2 btw.
The problem is that the driver neatly installs, the hardware is detected and the driver is installed for that particular USB port. Yet the moment I wish to open the Fanatec Control Panel it's stuck on the initialization screen. If you do a reboot the problem is gone.
I wonder if Microsoft changed something in the way either driver installation works (direct access to certain registry parts maybe?) or if it's maybe a change to the WDM (Windows Driver Model).
I thought I'd let you know anyhow, cause as maybe a temporary workaround you might want to enforce a reboot (or have a tick box at least) in the driver's MSI installer's finalization screen.
When i install the Drivers i have to do a Reboot also---> I think this is a MS thing and Not Fanatec Related---> also the initialization can take a bit of time depending on your PC---> I have Had it take from 30 secs to 3 min or so--> I just try to make sure that Nothing else is running or using Memory before i install the DR/FW.
Armin, do you happen to know the reason why I need to restart the PC as of late when I freshly install the drivers? I think it's a change on the Windows 10 side of things, rather than the driver side of things though. I am on the 'Insider - Slow Ring'. It does this both with the the CSWv1 and CSWv2 btw.
The problem is that the driver neatly installs, the hardware is detected and the driver is installed for that particular USB port. Yet the moment I wish to open the Fanatec Control Panel it's stuck on the initialization screen. If you do a reboot the problem is gone.
I wonder if Microsoft changed something in the way either driver installation works (direct access to certain registry parts maybe?) or if it's maybe a change to the WDM (Windows Driver Model).
I thought I'd let you know anyhow, cause as maybe a temporary workaround you might want to enforce a reboot (or have a tick box at least) in the driver's MSI installer's finalization screen.
When i install the Drivers i have to do a Reboot also---> I think this is a MS thing and Not Fanatec Related---> also the initialization can take a bit of time depending on your PC---> I have Had it take from 30 secs to 3 min or so--> I just try to make sure that Nothing else is running or using Memory before i install the DR/FW.
That's what I said. I said I was thinking that it's a change in how Microsoft Windows 10 handels registry access or how it's WDM (Windows Driver Model) is handling the registration of new drivers
My PC doesn't take long to reboot though. That's always a matter of seconds here, so that might be more a thing on your side I think.
My specs: i7 2600k / 16GB ram / GTX 970 / OCZ Vertex 4 256GB SSD + some old harddrives and other miscellaneous hardware
My Pc Boots in Seconds---> But wheel initialization can take a bit some time.
PC Specs: I5 6600k, 32GB Ram, 2x---> EVGA 1070FTW ->SLI, Samsung 250GB SSD +4TB +1TB HD , MSI Z170A M5 mobo
CSWv2 + FW: 299 on this driver: Issue with fan speed control... fan speed increases but doesn't decrease anymore as temperature drops. Which I reckon it should've after an hour of standby time.
Does anyone else have this as well?
Edit: Nvm... issue resolved the moment I hit the post button the fan speed went back to idle in one go.
Begs the question though. Armin, should the CSWv2 go from full fan speed to off and the other way around? Or should this be more voltage controlled and ramp up and down with temperature? Which I thought we had in the past by the way.
I just installed these new beta drivers(V289) and the rev lights and the display still do not work with Projects CARS or Dirt 4.
I have a CSW v2.5 with the Formula Carbon wheel.
Are the lights suppose to work? or no support yet?
What software are you using? Have you downloaded Fanaleds? You didn't give us much info to help you.
I tried Fanleds. On Project CARS, the gear shows but no rev lights. I even tried mapping them individually.
Dirt 4 looks like is not supported yet. But Dirt Rally is supported. There is no instruction for Dirt Rally in their README but the setup seems similar to the F1 2016 but it didn't work.
Had a race last night with everything lagging like hell. Had to reboot Win10 in order to carry on with next race. During the race my CSW V2 rebooted/ lost FFB even buttons stopped working during that interval like when we had to re-install drivers after the win10 update. Could not see if there was an update from MS but most drivers went to default.
Had to uninstall Fanatec driver package as it reported it as damaged. Re-installed V289 and firmware 299 updated.
may have nothing to do with this driver but need some help. just got my rseat rig and all my fanatec stuff in and it has been a nightmare. long story short ive had to get rid of windows 10 and install windows 7. ive got everything working except my wheel, club sport base v 2.5. if i turn off force feed back in iracing the wheel works just fine. with force feed back on it just throws my wheel left and right non stop. ive tried the older driver v273 i think. and i currently have this new beta driver on. firmware is supposdly updated. i say supposedly because it takes about 10 tries before the firmware flashes. and then i calibrate and what not. i just dont know what to do anymore. ive been sitting here all weekend just trying to get this thing to work. my computer is brand new and well above minimum requirements, i bought it just for this, wheel base is a v 2.5, and csl elite pedals lc. thanks
may have nothing to do with this driver but need some help. just got my rseat rig and all my fanatec stuff in and it has been a nightmare. long story short ive had to get rid of windows 10 and install windows 7. ive got everything working except my wheel, club sport base v 2.5. if i turn off force feed back in iracing the wheel works just fine. with force feed back on it just throws my wheel left and right non stop. ive tried the older driver v273 i think. and i currently have this new beta driver on. firmware is supposdly updated. i say supposedly because it takes about 10 tries before the firmware flashes. and then i calibrate and what not. i just dont know what to do anymore. ive been sitting here all weekend just trying to get this thing to work. my computer is brand new and well above minimum requirements, i bought it just for this, wheel base is a v 2.5, and csl elite pedals lc. thanks
Fanatec chat support is a great. I'd try them when available
not much help as of now unfortunately. stupid stuff like "is your windows up to date?". beyond that not much help until monday when their supervisor comes in. the same time im at work.....
may have nothing to do with this driver but need some help. just got my rseat rig and all my fanatec stuff in and it has been a nightmare. long story short ive had to get rid of windows 10 and install windows 7. ive got everything working except my wheel, club sport base v 2.5. if i turn off force feed back in iracing the wheel works just fine. with force feed back on it just throws my wheel left and right non stop. ive tried the older driver v273 i think. and i currently have this new beta driver on. firmware is supposdly updated. i say supposedly because it takes about 10 tries before the firmware flashes. and then i calibrate and what not. i just dont know what to do anymore. ive been sitting here all weekend just trying to get this thing to work. my computer is brand new and well above minimum requirements, i bought it just for this, wheel base is a v 2.5, and csl elite pedals lc. thanks
Until you manage to contact Support, it may help describing your issues here in more detail ("with force feed back on it just throws my wheel left and right non stop" does give much to go on). What may help even more is posting your issue on the iRacing forums, as I suspect it has to do with the game and its settings, possibly combined with the settings in the Fanatec driver and on the wheel.
In rfactor2 going into a corner while on the brakes the steering looses all ffb even paddle input. not every corner but mostly one specific every lap
Running latest beta driver 289 and firmware 299
Make sure all the Screws inside the Rim Hub are tight---> I had same problem tightening the Allen screws fixed it---> The Middle Screw being loose is more than likely the source of the problem---> for Me problem occurred on same track and corner for Me also because its the corner that exerts just the right amount of FFB input to make it happen.
how do you set DRI in the tuning menu? This sounds like oscillations which can be caused if you set DRI wrong.
it does the same thing with the setting the wheel base came with, also when i set it up to match a buddies 2.0 wheel base, and just playing with it myself it doesnt change anything. definetly not a tuning issue i believe.
may have nothing to do with this driver but need some help. just got my rseat rig and all my fanatec stuff in and it has been a nightmare. long story short ive had to get rid of windows 10 and install windows 7. ive got everything working except my wheel, club sport base v 2.5. if i turn off force feed back in iracing the wheel works just fine. with force feed back on it just throws my wheel left and right non stop. ive tried the older driver v273 i think. and i currently have this new beta driver on. firmware is supposdly updated. i say supposedly because it takes about 10 tries before the firmware flashes. and then i calibrate and what not. i just dont know what to do anymore. ive been sitting here all weekend just trying to get this thing to work. my computer is brand new and well above minimum requirements, i bought it just for this, wheel base is a v 2.5, and csl elite pedals lc. thanks
Until you manage to contact Support, it may help describing your issues here in more detail ("with force feed back on it just throws my wheel left and right non stop" does give much to go on). What may help even more is posting your issue on the iRacing forums, as I suspect it has to do with the game and its settings, possibly combined with the settings in the Fanatec driver and on the wheel.
really honestly the best way to describe it. i can sit in pit lane and turn the wheel left and it will take over and start throwing it left to right all the way
that sounds like reversed/inverted FFB effects or wrong DRI setting but if you do not even mention which value is set for DRI, we'll have little chances to help you.
Question: I have pedals V3 connected to the V2 EU base. I have installed 289. Do I need to flash pedals separately via USB stright to PC or are they automatically installed/flashed at the same time as the base?
Question: I have pedals V3 connected to the V2 EU base. I have installed 289. Do I need to flash pedals separately via USB stright to PC or are they automatically installed/flashed at the same time as the base?
You always have to connect pedals to PC and Flash the Pedals alone--> Pedals will Not update through the wheel.
I Have Pedals Connected to the wheel but Due to My Pedals being hard mounted for Pedal FW update purposes Only I always leave the USB cord Plugged into pedals--> But NOT plugged into PC with a cover on pedal USB Cord---> When i Need to Flash Pedals I make sure Wheel base is OFF and Only then do i connect Pedals to PC to update them---> When Pedal update is complete make sure you remove USB from PC and put USB cover back on pedal USB cord and start wheel...Make Sure you Never Leave Pedals plugged into PC and Connected to wheel at the same time.
Comments
The problem is that the driver neatly installs, the hardware is detected and the driver is installed for that particular USB port. Yet the moment I wish to open the Fanatec Control Panel it's stuck on the initialization screen. If you do a reboot the problem is gone.
I wonder if Microsoft changed something in the way either driver installation works (direct access to certain registry parts maybe?) or if it's maybe a change to the WDM (Windows Driver Model).
I thought I'd let you know anyhow, cause as maybe a temporary workaround you might want to enforce a reboot (or have a tick box at least) in the driver's MSI installer's finalization screen.
My PC doesn't take long to reboot though. That's always a matter of seconds here, so that might be more a thing on your side I think.
My specs: i7 2600k / 16GB ram / GTX 970 / OCZ Vertex 4 256GB SSD + some old harddrives and other miscellaneous hardware
Hello together,with me is the function brf no longer there ??
Have the pedals alone with the USB connected to the Pc
Does anyone else have this as well?
Edit: Nvm... issue resolved the moment I hit the post button the fan speed went back to idle in one go.
Begs the question though. Armin, should the CSWv2 go from full fan speed to off and the other way around? Or should this be more voltage controlled and ramp up and down with temperature? Which I thought we had in the past by the way.
I Have Pedals Connected to the wheel but Due to My Pedals being hard mounted for Pedal FW update purposes Only I always leave the USB cord Plugged into pedals--> But NOT plugged into PC with a cover on pedal USB Cord---> When i Need to Flash Pedals I make sure Wheel base is OFF and Only then do i connect Pedals to PC to update them---> When Pedal update is complete make sure you remove USB from PC and put USB cover back on pedal USB cord and start wheel...Make Sure you Never Leave Pedals plugged into PC and Connected to wheel at the same time.