Assetto Corsa Competizione (PC) - Fanatec Recommended Settings



  • edited August 2022

    I have a question i have the GT DD PRO wheel and i am using the settings of Derek in PC Mode but i cant get right the multi function switch in ACC. How can i set it right so that the number of my wheel will be the same as in the game. I have read some workaround but that didn't work for me.

  • And must i assign the buttons in ACC ?

  • edited August 2022

  • As Maurice said, set the mode to CONSTANT. When mapping the buttons, make sure you tick the box for "Extended Input", with Extended Time of 0.5 seconds. Like this:

  • Hello Greg i have set it like you say but i doesn't work i have my steering wheel in pc mode. Rotary are set as constant i have mapped the buttons and set extended input on but no success

  • I'm not sure what the problem is. Admittedly, I don't use CONST personally, that method is just what I've seen recommended here on the forums. I prefer to use PULSE for two reasons: one, simply because that's what finally worked for me when I was trying to figure it out on my own. The second reason is a bit more complicated. Here's an example:

    Say one of your encoder knobs controls the TCS level, and is currently set to position 1. Now say your car's TCS level, as saved in the car's setup file, is 2. With the encoders set to PULSE, you will be out on track, driving around with your car's TCS set to 2, but your Fanatec wheel showing 1. To get them to match up, you would need to turn the knob to send a signal to the game, and then the game's TCS level will sync with your wheel. However, the advantage to this is that you can load a setup file and know that what you're feeling on track is how the car is supposed to feel, and is not being overridden by an errant dial position on your wheel that you forgot to change. What I usually do when I load a setup is just to pop over to the Electronics tab and check the TCS/ABS levels stored in the file, and then manually change my dials to match that when I head out on track, and from there on out, no problems.

    Now, I haven't tested the following to verify, but with your encoders set to CONST, I suspect what will happen is this: same situation as before with the car set to 2 and the wheel set to 1 - despite your setup file calling for the TCS level to be 2, your wheel setting will override it and it will be set to 1 when you actually take to the track. This then introduces the possibility of TCS/ABS or whatever you have mapped to your dials, to be in completely different positions than what your setup file calls for, leading to unexpected situations while driving, which is obviously not desireable.

    Both methods have their pluses and minuses I suppose, but personally I prefer PULSE.

  • I am on console (PS4-Ps5-Series X) and there is no such rotary encoder on the DD Pro bundled wheel I don't understand which wheel you are using, specifically.

    I also have the Formula v2.5x wheel and this is another story, mps and rotary (pulse).

    Or maybe on PC you can do something else with the bundled GT wheel.....I honestly don't know.

    Or maybe there is such thing and I don't know because I probably used it 30 minutes in total with Gran Turismo 7, being such a waste of time at the moment and an ffb disgrace. 😀


  • edited August 2022

    I just updated my DD1 w/Formula v2 wheel with the new firmware v439 and the wheel feels completely different (extremely weak FFB, no feeling at all).

    Anyone else experience this? Hopefully there's some updated settings...?

  • Ian MacgregorIan Macgregor Member
    edited August 2022

    I am sort of having a similar issue but with the DD PRO GT and v2.5 wheel but for me it is extremely weak when cornering there is nothing much going on and the wheel is really light to turn almost like it is disconnected but on the straights the full force is there. I use the recommended settings but I also use Dynamic FFB and have always used that. This issue seems to have started sometime this weekend gone.

  • edited August 2022

    Now I am 100% sure that PC-mode and Compatibility mode has different FFB at least on ACC with in game profile for wheel selected in Comp mode. I know Maurice said its same but I feel its not. In Comp I can catch slides better, the whole FFB range is "saturated" better there is no empty feeling in middle. It might be that you have testing systems that shows its the same but then its in the game engine.

    And for the love of god dont use PC-mode in ACC, try Comp mode and be surprised.

    One big problem was overdampening and through that lost information of what car is doing. I just was not happy until I revisited FFB after being inspired by Race beyond Matter. I turned down EVERYTHING related to dampers and started to raise things up. I ended up smiling and could feel the car much better now. The settings are very close to Dereks and the KEY is to use Compatibility mode and almost all damping in Fanatec software OFF. Just a little bit in game Damper and 100% Dynamic.

    There are two good tracks to test this with high speed long corners. Silverstone T 1 with Maggots and beckets and Suzuka T 15. Also try different cars Porsche, Honda and then with McLaren. Totally different FFB feelings in-between them but through this you can get good overview.

  • You mention using "compatibility mode" on PC but when i press the "on-off" button to switch to compatibility mode (purple color) the game doesnt detect any inputs at all...or am i doing it wrong?

    I have also tried to go into compatibility mode BEFORE starting the game but again, no inputs register.

  • Not sure about the colors on the GT DD (which is what I assume you're using), but on the CSL DD, compatibility mode is yellow. Doing this will cause the wheelbase to be detected as a CSW 2.5.

    Then again, these recommended settings haven't been updated for quite some time. CMP mode is no longer needed, as I've been running ACC with my wheelbase in PC mode for a number of months now with no issues.

  • Yes, you are correct.. yellow is the compatibilty mode. (Just got my DD Pro so still coming to terms with the functions etc)..

  • I red this by chance.

    I tried it.

    I was surprised! It's a complete different feeling. Controllable, feelable. Pure fun!

    Rediculous that the settings are not official.

    CSL DD

    (Compatibility Mode recommended)

    Tuning Menu Settings:

    • SEN 1080
    • FF 100
    • FFS Peak
    • NDP 0
    • NFR Off
    • NIN Off
    • INT 1
    • FEI 100
    • FOR 100
    • SPR Off
    • DPR Off
    • BLI User Preference
    • SHO On
    • BRF User Preference

    In-Game Settings:

    • Steer lock: 1080
    • Gain: 75
    • Min Force: 0
    • Dynamic Damping: 100
    • Road Effects: 0


  • what does dynamic dampening at 100% do in ACC?

  • Great settings mate, tested them yesterday and immediately felt better response on the FFB, can easier predict the car and catch slides.

    However, what I find weird and was stated earlier aswell I am also encountering oscillation. Checked my document files for .LUT files as I remember I had some with the Thrustmaster TX file but only found .json files. Are there any other locations you know of where this could be stored?

    After trying to find those files I changed some settings, tried DPR 20-50, but wasn't very pleased. Also, this made the oscillation worse, turned DPR to 0, still oscillation. Now I changed ingame damper from 50% --> 0% and boom, maybe some minor twitches on the straights on full power. So maybe there was an update that changed the behaviour of ingame dampening?

    I am wondering, have you made any changes to your FFB settings since your last post?


  • can any one tell me what are the best settings for the podium dd1 and ingame settings for acc?

    regards jeroen

  • Other than the ones listed on Page 1 of this thread?

  • I for the life of me cannot get ACC to run properly with the DD2. My GSI wheel is completely recognized, but I’m getting ZERO ffb. Iracing and AC work flawlessly. I managed to get some ffb once after deleting two files in the ACC folder, once I left the game and came back in, got nothing again. I’ve also uninstalled and reinstalled dd2 drivers and firmware, plus acc fresh install. Anyone else have any issues with ever getting the dd2 to work correctly?

  • Hi, I'm talking about Gt DD pro with McLaren steering wheel in ACC. Is it normal that I don't feel any vibrations when I start the car? I don't feel any vibration from the car engine.

  • Yes thats normal.

    The wheel does not have rumble motors so not possible to simulate Engine vibrations.

  • Only with some ClubSport Wheels which have rumble motors built inside the handgrips then you can enable engine vibration in FanaLab.

  • I'm sorry I can't feel the engine, it's very immersive. I thought it was a signal from the FF

  • Today I received the Fanatec Formula V2.5X wheel that I will use on my GT DD Pro.

    I also own the BMW GT2 v2 wheel that I also use. For this wheel I always used Compatibility mode in ACC. Is this also necessary for the Formula V2.5X wheel with the GT DD Pro?

    Or is compatibility mode applicable for the GT DD Pro itself, and not the wheel that you use.

  • I tried the latest update of ACC 1.9 and the ffb has a strange behavior, driving on the straight now the steering wheel has a dead zone, it is very light and the car does not react when you turn the steering wheel a few degrees, even in the corners just the tires they lose grip the steering wheel becomes very light and has an unnatural sensation, I have a CSL DD with boost kit and I currently use the settings suggested by fanatec in the first post, is it possible that they are not ideal for the new update?

  • I believe the FFB has been slightly changed in 1.9.

  • edited April 2023

    THe FFB code itself did not changed, only the Physics have changed which result in a different FFB feel.

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