Some sort of strange bug. Turn BLI off and test buttons will work. But you then need to remember to turn BLI back on...I think that’s right, I’m not in front of it at the moment
That was it. Doesn’t make any sense why I had switch usb port but it work. I spent hours and hours uninstalling reinstalling and just to switch USB port. Thank you so much I so appreciate this.
Next time you can try deleting the USB port in Device Manager and restart Windows to let it rebuild it. I've had similar issues if not the same as yours, and that has worked for me.
Have the same thing with mine and got it replaced but the new was even worse so ended up using my old one. If you get it replaced, i hope its not worse than the one you got.
After i update all my equipment with the new beta drivers and use the profiles that you send here i feel a great upgrate but with a problem. Always when a use the REAR shift (reverse) in any car the FF change a lot. Its like the wheel get more heavy and slow. with more resistence. Whats should i do?
I would like to report a bug with my DD1. In the middle of a race which I was also leading in iRacing, my buttons stopped working completely, preventing any upshift or downshift... Now everything was fixed after a restart but that is a serious issue. I am using the current 373 version
after months of waiting for CSL Elite update to get my PBME working, I decided to sell and swap to DD1 PS4. So I am a brand new user of DD and new to forum too.
It's been only days, but it seems to work fine. Especially with the f1 rim. Haven't seen any unusual behaviour yet, when compared to CSL anyway.
Very hard to find some specific answers so I hope you don't mind asking.
With PBME I can't assign the toggle switches, rotary switches to any games on PS4. Is this the current limitation of the firmware? F1 wheel can have all rotary encoders, rotary switches, toggle switches assigned, no probs. I thought they shared the same topology?
They are simply not recognised at all.
And also, the button layout is now different than the quick book I received, not a big deal, other than R3 button is now missing? Makes no sense to have to X buttons but remove R3?
Update regarding steering wheel freezing issue with my DD1 PS4 Formula setup: After trying many different options, the only thing that appears to have fixed it is to move my clubsport v1 pedals, which were previously connected directly to the wheelbase over to use a USB connection to the PC.
I have done multiple 40+ minute races and the bug has not returned, previously it would happen 100% of the time during a race of that duration (iRacing), so hopefully that has resolved it for good.
Hello i had the same problem, i use CSL elite Wheelbase. Use the driver v374 u can find it on the main page the new WRC Wheel page under download. it helpe for me.
I think I have the same issue as you do with the Podium DD1: usually mid race (while on the PC, using ACC or rF2) the wheel freezes (goes unresponsive) and the PC doesn't get any input from it.
This is using Formula V2 steering wheel, I too have CSP v3 and SQ 1.5 connected to the wheel base. Usually I also run Fanalab 1.47.
When this happens, if I go to the USB game controllers in Windows, if I try to access the device, that window hangs, and I've found that all of the USB ports of that particular hub are KO. I have to restart Windows for them to work properly again. Does this happen to you too?
i have tried different things:
making sure the Formula V2 wheel is properly attached;
USB ports settings in the Windows energy management always active;
different Fanatec wheel (Porsche): after 20-25 hours with no freezes, it happened again;
not running Fanalab 1.47 - I still haven't conclude anything from it;
Besides the freezes, something else happens sometimes, yesterday twice on rFactor2:
After some races with no freezes, I started a new race and the FFB was different: when I turned the wheel I could feel/hear a metallic friction sound in the base. I went on to try and figure it out, and I realized that if I set the DPR on the base to 0, it would go away. In rF2, DPR and SPR don't have any effect.
I'm now using the base with DPR set to 0 and check if this might have interference with the freezing issue.
If it doesn't, the next step I'll take will be to connect the pedals independently.
regarding your issue, the steering FFB is still alive and you can steer and use the pedals after the issue occurs? That is, only the buttons and lights go dead or everything stops working (everything from the steering wheel and pedals)?
Comments
Why does it show for me?
Euro Truck Simulator 2
BUG:
Im losing FFB after ALT + TAB for a few seconds out of the game.
FIX:
Restart the wheelbase while ingame.
Aditional Info:
Windows 10 Pro ( Version 2004, Build 19041.508). Fanalab installed but not active while playing. Costum wheel settings at slot 2 "S_2".
Any ETA for a new beta version of the driver?
That’s a game issue, not a driver issue.
Some sort of strange bug. Turn BLI off and test buttons will work. But you then need to remember to turn BLI back on...I think that’s right, I’m not in front of it at the moment
That was it. Doesn’t make any sense why I had switch usb port but it work. I spent hours and hours uninstalling reinstalling and just to switch USB port. Thank you so much I so appreciate this.
Thanks for your response. What makes you think its a game issue? My G29 neven lost the FFB while Atl + TAB.
Nevertheless ill contact SCS.
Next time you can try deleting the USB port in Device Manager and restart Windows to let it rebuild it. I've had similar issues if not the same as yours, and that has worked for me.
Hi, I'm Using A Fanatec CSL elite PS4 version with CSL elite wheel on PC
i recently Updated to this 373 driver
Everything works fine except my Power Supply makes a litte high frequency sound when plugged in & the sound intensifies while racing.
Is this normal ? This did not happen with the 328 default driver
Hi Maurice,
Support request submitted.
Do you know what is the defect with the wheel and whether it has been fixed for the latest batches of Formula V2 ?
Open a support ticket through your account on the fanatec website under "My products" section.
Have the same thing with mine and got it replaced but the new was even worse so ended up using my old one. If you get it replaced, i hope its not worse than the one you got.
The wheel and driver don't know if you are tabbed outside of the game, it just listens to the commands it gets send.
Hi There.
After i update all my equipment with the new beta drivers and use the profiles that you send here i feel a great upgrate but with a problem. Always when a use the REAR shift (reverse) in any car the FF change a lot. Its like the wheel get more heavy and slow. with more resistence. Whats should i do?
Game: IRACING
Wheel Base: DD1
disable the dynamic reverse damper in FanaLab ;)
THANK YOU!!
I would like to report a bug with my DD1. In the middle of a race which I was also leading in iRacing, my buttons stopped working completely, preventing any upshift or downshift... Now everything was fixed after a restart but that is a serious issue. I am using the current 373 version
Do i need to return my current power supply , in order to get the replacement ?
I don't think you have to return something like a power supply or cable.
They will ask you to return the old power supply once you received the new.
just To be clear is returning Mandatory
When they ask you to do so, yes.
Hello guys,
after months of waiting for CSL Elite update to get my PBME working, I decided to sell and swap to DD1 PS4. So I am a brand new user of DD and new to forum too.
It's been only days, but it seems to work fine. Especially with the f1 rim. Haven't seen any unusual behaviour yet, when compared to CSL anyway.
Very hard to find some specific answers so I hope you don't mind asking.
With PBME I can't assign the toggle switches, rotary switches to any games on PS4. Is this the current limitation of the firmware? F1 wheel can have all rotary encoders, rotary switches, toggle switches assigned, no probs. I thought they shared the same topology?
They are simply not recognised at all.
And also, the button layout is now different than the quick book I received, not a big deal, other than R3 button is now missing? Makes no sense to have to X buttons but remove R3?
Thanks
My drivers are all current:
Thanks for the hard work Marcel
Tom
Update regarding steering wheel freezing issue with my DD1 PS4 Formula setup: After trying many different options, the only thing that appears to have fixed it is to move my clubsport v1 pedals, which were previously connected directly to the wheelbase over to use a USB connection to the PC.
I have done multiple 40+ minute races and the bug has not returned, previously it would happen 100% of the time during a race of that duration (iRacing), so hopefully that has resolved it for good.
CSW 2,5
PC Driver: 365
Wheel base firm: 672
Wheel base motor firm: 22
Steering wheel firm (formula v2): 34
Hello everyone, is it possible i am not seeing ABS on the tuning menu?
Thanks all
Hello i had the same problem, i use CSL elite Wheelbase. Use the driver v374 u can find it on the main page the new WRC Wheel page under download. it helpe for me.
Hey Joshua,
I think I have the same issue as you do with the Podium DD1: usually mid race (while on the PC, using ACC or rF2) the wheel freezes (goes unresponsive) and the PC doesn't get any input from it.
This is using Formula V2 steering wheel, I too have CSP v3 and SQ 1.5 connected to the wheel base. Usually I also run Fanalab 1.47.
When this happens, if I go to the USB game controllers in Windows, if I try to access the device, that window hangs, and I've found that all of the USB ports of that particular hub are KO. I have to restart Windows for them to work properly again. Does this happen to you too?
i have tried different things:
Besides the freezes, something else happens sometimes, yesterday twice on rFactor2:
After some races with no freezes, I started a new race and the FFB was different: when I turned the wheel I could feel/hear a metallic friction sound in the base. I went on to try and figure it out, and I realized that if I set the DPR on the base to 0, it would go away. In rF2, DPR and SPR don't have any effect.
I'm now using the base with DPR set to 0 and check if this might have interference with the freezing issue.
If it doesn't, the next step I'll take will be to connect the pedals independently.
I'll be in touch. Regards,
Edgar.
Joshua,
regarding your issue, the steering FFB is still alive and you can steer and use the pedals after the issue occurs? That is, only the buttons and lights go dead or everything stops working (everything from the steering wheel and pedals)?
Thanks.
A weird issue popped up today,
With the Clubsport V3 pedals plugged into to DD1 wheelbase:
On the fanatec properties page TEST RUMBLE for brake and throttle no longer vibrate the pedals.
But the brake pedal vibrates when pressed close to or at full travel.
Ive restarted the wheel base.
Ive turned off the wheel base, disconnected the pedal cable from the base, reconnected and turned on the wheelbase.
Ive restarted the PC.
Reflashed the 373 wheelbase firmware and the issue went away.
someone? please help