Hi Sascha, I updated all the firmwares of both engines, even when I opened the fanatec application it told me that it had an update for the steering wheel and it was updated successfully. but the problem still continues, everything works except the force feedback. The base firmware is in versions v648, v40 and the steering wheel is also in v40 which is the most recent.
hello guys, with this new update, my wheel is disconnecting the whole time while racing. when im racing i lose torque and the wheel turns off and then turn on on its own
The pedal firmware is the pedal firmware - it controls the pedals no matter how they are connected. I presume there are limitations on sending software updates via RJ12 which is why they need to be connected via USB to update. This doesn't apply to wheels as they are connected via a multipin designed for this purpose.
No need to update the pedals if you are happy with how they have been working - they will continue to work the same way. In fact it may be wise not to - people are reporting dissatisfaction in operation now. Forum moderators claim this dissatisfaction is misplaced as the pedals now more accurately measure and report load. This seems a cop out to me - I would have thought it sensible to have a degree of interpolation built into the firmware signal algorithm to account for signal noise. I suspect there in fact is, but as we often see from Fanatec, firmware is poorly developed and inadequately tested resulting in the negative user reports.
Thank you! What a strange design decision, especially given how physically difficult it is to switch cables.
Good point about leaving them as they are if they're working OK. I will do just that, at least until a firmware update that I think I need comes out.
It's odd that the RJ12 connection can't even tell us which firmware version is currently on the pedals. I've never plugged mine in via USB so I have no idea what they shipped with. The protocol run over the RJ12 must be very simplified. I wonder why they didn't put a USB port on the Podium wheels for the pedals to plug into. Still, having everything combined into one (or two, technically, I guess) controllers on the Windows side is a benefit.
EVERY CSP v3 Pedal set was shipped with Firmware 1.30 because that was the ONLY Firmware EVER available for the pedals up until driver 400 which introduced Firmware 1.31
hello guys, with this new update, my wheel is disconnecting the whole time while racing. when im racing i lose torque and the wheel turns off and then turn on on its own. is it a known issue or no? it turns off and on like 4 to 5 times per race
Leo - I know what you mean about the hassle of connecting the USB cable to the underside of the pedals and having to disassemble the rig installation to do so.
So! A year or so ago when I rebuilt my rig I connected the USB cable to the pedals and just cable tied the other end to the rig frame without plugging it into the PC -all the while connected by the RJ 12 for racing. So when this situation came up it was there all ready just dangling loose, because Fanatec has previously said that USB will be required for updates..
I might do the same at the weekend when I make my second attempt to undo the pedal faces and install the add-ons which came with the pedals. (Already broke several tools trying to undo those bolts, which are installed by Superman with superglue. Quite ridiculous for something which you're expected to undo for multiple mods that are either in the box with the pedals or sold by Fanatec for the pedals.)
My only worry is that it's a USB cable that, if I or someone else gets confused and plugs in, will apparently fry the circuit board if the correct RJ12 behind the wheel isn't unplugged first? Something that could easily happen, given it's in an array of identical RJ12s at the rear of the unit, under a monitor. I guess the display on the unit says if pedals are plugged in, which helps check if the right thing was unplugged, and then the only danger is plugging them back in to the wrong port (which I'm going to assume will also fry the board at this point).
Nice pedals, on the whole, but some very strange choices which kinda sour the experience of dealing with them, outside of actually using them (which is great).
I don't think it's possible to wreck the circuit board that way.
To help id which cable is what and goes where, tag one end of the fanatec usb with coloured electrician tape, and put another bit on the wheel base beside the right port. Or use a paint pen.
Yes I had a clean install of 4.02 after uninstalling and restarting my PC. This happens only with Fanatec. It is looking for ffb some kinda of process and it loads my cpu that crashes the game. I’m sure it is some windows conflict. Can’t understand why 346 works with my PC but newer ones don’t. Already checked in case my download it’s corrupted. Never had any driver issues with other products; VR headsets; different brand pedals and the list goes on. Maybe if I reinstall windows at some point they will work but another friend of mine did that and he still can’t upgrade his base FW
PS I really like my Clubsport V2.5 and the Formul V2 rim. Fanatec support has been absolutely brilliant and very helpful with my first issue.
I can’t even use my wheel after updating... everything works together, LEDS are fine and when moving the shifter into gear it reads the gear on the wheel... but neither my base, shifter or pedals are detected in fanalab or wheel property page...
I have the Clubsport steering wheel F1 PS4 combined with DD1. I also have the Porsche GT3 podium wheel setup.
Both wheels have the v40 firmware.
Using the F1 wheel in iRacing yesterday about 15 minutes into a race (and in the lead!) the wheel lost button function and I could not shift. Force feedback remained functioning properly. Luckily I was in 4th gear when it happened so I kept driving for about a lap and then function returned. Unfortunately I lost the lead in the process.
Another 15 minutes into the race the same thing happened, this time in 2nd gear. The wheel recovered faster.
have not been able to use my wheel since updating.. its no longer detected by windows, worked perfectly before... im not about to spend more money on a product that broke from an update.
Just updated to 402, I tried to play ACC but my pedals weren’t working. My load cell pedal is not showing under the wheel property page and it’s not showing in the firmware manager either. However... In the Wheelbase property page I was able to verify my throttle input and funny thing is when I tested my brake pedal, it worked as well, and I also finally felt the vibration in the wheel itself when I pushed hard enough.
After months with this product, I was under the impression that [BLI] didn't do anything. But one issue is it feels like the brake force is at 10 instead of 50, making it extremely sensitive.
So, I unplugged the pedals and plugged them in to a different USB port in an attempt to bring back the load cell menu to change the sensitivity… which worked and it’s being recognized again but now that vibration in the wheel is gone. Another weird thing is that pedal bind values changed. Throttle went from axis 2 to axis 1, brake went from axis 3 to axis 2, clutch went from axis 7 to axis 3.
Does anyone else using a CSL Elite with Load Cell pedals know what I’m talking about / know how to get the wheel to vibrate under braking while also being able to detect my load cell pedal properly?
the pedals are never shown in the property page, when connected directly to the base. You'll only see the pedal inputs on the overview page.
BLI (Brake Level Indicator) is the new ABS setting, so the lower you set the BLI the sooner your wheel should vibrate when braking, when vibration motors are available on the wheel.
the setting you need to adjust to make the loadcell more or less sensitive is the brF (brake force) setting.
Actually I understand BRF and BLI that's not what I'm confused about. What I'm saying is that the vibration effect does not happen anymore. I got it to work for a few minutes and now the wheel isn't vibrating when I'm braking. Any ideas?
Yes I have the pedals attached with the USB. each rj12 is fine. I unplugged the USB so it's only connected to the wheelbase and still nothing in the wheelbase property page. The weird thing is I had it working for a few minutes without changing anything in my setup apart from the driver update. Looks like I'll just have to live without this feature I guess.
Comments
Hi Sascha, I updated all the firmwares of both engines, even when I opened the fanatec application it told me that it had an update for the steering wheel and it was updated successfully. but the problem still continues, everything works except the force feedback. The base firmware is in versions v648, v40 and the steering wheel is also in v40 which is the most recent.
hello guys, with this new update, my wheel is disconnecting the whole time while racing. when im racing i lose torque and the wheel turns off and then turn on on its own
The pedal firmware is the pedal firmware - it controls the pedals no matter how they are connected. I presume there are limitations on sending software updates via RJ12 which is why they need to be connected via USB to update. This doesn't apply to wheels as they are connected via a multipin designed for this purpose.
No need to update the pedals if you are happy with how they have been working - they will continue to work the same way. In fact it may be wise not to - people are reporting dissatisfaction in operation now. Forum moderators claim this dissatisfaction is misplaced as the pedals now more accurately measure and report load. This seems a cop out to me - I would have thought it sensible to have a degree of interpolation built into the firmware signal algorithm to account for signal noise. I suspect there in fact is, but as we often see from Fanatec, firmware is poorly developed and inadequately tested resulting in the negative user reports.
Thank you! What a strange design decision, especially given how physically difficult it is to switch cables.
Good point about leaving them as they are if they're working OK. I will do just that, at least until a firmware update that I think I need comes out.
It's odd that the RJ12 connection can't even tell us which firmware version is currently on the pedals. I've never plugged mine in via USB so I have no idea what they shipped with. The protocol run over the RJ12 must be very simplified. I wonder why they didn't put a USB port on the Podium wheels for the pedals to plug into. Still, having everything combined into one (or two, technically, I guess) controllers on the Windows side is a benefit.
EVERY CSP v3 Pedal set was shipped with Firmware 1.30 because that was the ONLY Firmware EVER available for the pedals up until driver 400 which introduced Firmware 1.31
hello guys, with this new update, my wheel is disconnecting the whole time while racing. when im racing i lose torque and the wheel turns off and then turn on on its own. is it a known issue or no? it turns off and on like 4 to 5 times per race
Leo - I know what you mean about the hassle of connecting the USB cable to the underside of the pedals and having to disassemble the rig installation to do so.
So! A year or so ago when I rebuilt my rig I connected the USB cable to the pedals and just cable tied the other end to the rig frame without plugging it into the PC -all the while connected by the RJ 12 for racing. So when this situation came up it was there all ready just dangling loose, because Fanatec has previously said that USB will be required for updates..
Nice quality of life move.
could you please check if the USB power saving options are unchecked for your base in windows?
can you please tell me where to check?
you go into the device manager, click on USB controller and right click the USB root hub, under properties you uncheck the power saving option.
I might do the same at the weekend when I make my second attempt to undo the pedal faces and install the add-ons which came with the pedals. (Already broke several tools trying to undo those bolts, which are installed by Superman with superglue. Quite ridiculous for something which you're expected to undo for multiple mods that are either in the box with the pedals or sold by Fanatec for the pedals.)
My only worry is that it's a USB cable that, if I or someone else gets confused and plugs in, will apparently fry the circuit board if the correct RJ12 behind the wheel isn't unplugged first? Something that could easily happen, given it's in an array of identical RJ12s at the rear of the unit, under a monitor. I guess the display on the unit says if pedals are plugged in, which helps check if the right thing was unplugged, and then the only danger is plugging them back in to the wrong port (which I'm going to assume will also fry the board at this point).
Nice pedals, on the whole, but some very strange choices which kinda sour the experience of dealing with them, outside of actually using them (which is great).
i unchecked it, it worked on my pc normally but on ps4 problem is still the same
I don't think it's possible to wreck the circuit board that way.
To help id which cable is what and goes where, tag one end of the fanatec usb with coloured electrician tape, and put another bit on the wheel base beside the right port. Or use a paint pen.
csl elite ps4 connected to pc, 402 firmware v648 this version does not contain the endurance button module firmware? I couldn't get the module to work
No. The Firmware for the CSL Elite PS4 Base is still in development and supposed to be released sometime later this year.
Yes I had a clean install of 4.02 after uninstalling and restarting my PC. This happens only with Fanatec. It is looking for ffb some kinda of process and it loads my cpu that crashes the game. I’m sure it is some windows conflict. Can’t understand why 346 works with my PC but newer ones don’t. Already checked in case my download it’s corrupted. Never had any driver issues with other products; VR headsets; different brand pedals and the list goes on. Maybe if I reinstall windows at some point they will work but another friend of mine did that and he still can’t upgrade his base FW
PS I really like my Clubsport V2.5 and the Formul V2 rim. Fanatec support has been absolutely brilliant and very helpful with my first issue.
I can’t even use my wheel after updating... everything works together, LEDS are fine and when moving the shifter into gear it reads the gear on the wheel... but neither my base, shifter or pedals are detected in fanalab or wheel property page...
are using the latest version of Fanalab after you updated the driver?
I have the Clubsport steering wheel F1 PS4 combined with DD1. I also have the Porsche GT3 podium wheel setup.
Both wheels have the v40 firmware.
Using the F1 wheel in iRacing yesterday about 15 minutes into a race (and in the lead!) the wheel lost button function and I could not shift. Force feedback remained functioning properly. Luckily I was in 4th gear when it happened so I kept driving for about a lap and then function returned. Unfortunately I lost the lead in the process.
Another 15 minutes into the race the same thing happened, this time in 2nd gear. The wheel recovered faster.
I have not had this issue with the Porsche wheel.
have not been able to use my wheel since updating.. its no longer detected by windows, worked perfectly before... im not about to spend more money on a product that broke from an update.
yes
CSL Elite w/ Load Cell pedals user here.
Just updated to 402, I tried to play ACC but my pedals weren’t working. My load cell pedal is not showing under the wheel property page and it’s not showing in the firmware manager either. However... In the Wheelbase property page I was able to verify my throttle input and funny thing is when I tested my brake pedal, it worked as well, and I also finally felt the vibration in the wheel itself when I pushed hard enough.
After months with this product, I was under the impression that [BLI] didn't do anything. But one issue is it feels like the brake force is at 10 instead of 50, making it extremely sensitive.
So, I unplugged the pedals and plugged them in to a different USB port in an attempt to bring back the load cell menu to change the sensitivity… which worked and it’s being recognized again but now that vibration in the wheel is gone. Another weird thing is that pedal bind values changed. Throttle went from axis 2 to axis 1, brake went from axis 3 to axis 2, clutch went from axis 7 to axis 3.
Does anyone else using a CSL Elite with Load Cell pedals know what I’m talking about / know how to get the wheel to vibrate under braking while also being able to detect my load cell pedal properly?
Driver 402
CSL Pedal FW: 1.9
CSL Wheelbase FW: 684
CSL Motor FW: 22
Hi Jacob,
the pedals are never shown in the property page, when connected directly to the base. You'll only see the pedal inputs on the overview page.
BLI (Brake Level Indicator) is the new ABS setting, so the lower you set the BLI the sooner your wheel should vibrate when braking, when vibration motors are available on the wheel.
the setting you need to adjust to make the loadcell more or less sensitive is the brF (brake force) setting.
Hopefully this helps you abit.
Hello Sascha,
Actually I understand BRF and BLI that's not what I'm confused about. What I'm saying is that the vibration effect does not happen anymore. I got it to work for a few minutes and now the wheel isn't vibrating when I'm braking. Any ideas?
driver 402 isn't recommended for the CSL base anyway, please downgrade to driver 381 and see if the issue persists.
Nope no change unfortunately.
It's still not showing any input from my pedals as well.
This is what I meant to post.
But it shows up under these properties.
then the pedals are connected via USB? If connected via USB they won't be shown in the wheel's property page.
Did you check the Rj12 connections of each pedal?
Also try to use "set min" to erase any input of the brake.
Yes I have the pedals attached with the USB. each rj12 is fine. I unplugged the USB so it's only connected to the wheelbase and still nothing in the wheelbase property page. The weird thing is I had it working for a few minutes without changing anything in my setup apart from the driver update. Looks like I'll just have to live without this feature I guess.