Assetto Corsa Competizione (PC) - Fanatec Recommended Settings

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  • I don't get it what specifically does bother you with new FFB? I feel on power understeer better, everything is more detailed. I had to change NDP (5-10, max 15), NFR (2-5), NIN (Off) and INT to a minimum levels just at the point to prevent oscillations. If you want more grainy feel lower INT, but I get better feel with INT at 2-3. What I found: If NDP high - 15, INT 1, If NDP low - 5-10 INT 2-4.

    But the new Damper setting in game does not make any sense currently, and it just confused everyone.

  • Jim GroveJim Grove Member
    edited November 2021

    Thd ffb is absolutely fine. The track detail is gone. The difference between 1.80 and 1.75 is almost the same as ACC and AMS2 FFB. All the track surface detail feels muted or removed in ACC where as AMS2 is lively (maybe too much), energetic and informative. Maybe some just don't notice it but for me it was a huge difference.

    For instance, the pit straight at Monza is almost completely devoid of any feel through the wheel. Where as in 1.75 the surface was quite uneven so I could feel the wheel pull left or right. It made things easier and more predictable in wet weather and it made the track very immersive. One of the reasons I mainly drove Monza was because of it's detail and familiarity. I can still see where the old bumps are as the car bangs and over revs and the nose pitches back and forth. But barely a bump through the wheel. Some might say power steering or no chassis movement but then what's the point of FFB?

    Sadly, I'm almost to a point where I'm getting used to how the new feel feel's so it's getting harder to remember the old surface feel.

  • Have you tried deleting the AC2 folder in appdata and temporarily removing the acc folder in documents?

  • Jim GroveJim Grove Member
    edited November 2021

    Yeah I did, Felipe. It changed the FFB feel for sure making it sharper and more detailed BUT I think Kunos have changed the track mesh or simplified it so that tyre feel on tarmac has changed. So, it doesn't matter how much I fine tune the FFB, it cant replicate what is no longer there after update 1.8. I finished work early to day and I've been trying to find a happy medium since around 2.00pm. It's now 8.26pm and I can't do it. I cant dial in a setting that feels immersive.


    I tried Bathurst earlier which used to be a real seat of the pants circuit. I could feel the tyres scrubbing on the track, the car would wobble under braking because of weight shift, Griffins bend into the cutting used to really upset the car under braking. Going from quarry corner all the way through to the dipper was a test of nerves. It felt awesome! But now, that feel isn't there anymore. It just feels......Artificial now.

  • I have the opposite feeling when I'm racing on Silverstone and Imola. On the main straight at Imola there are so many more details now. Also at Silverstone before and after Maggotts-Becketts there are bumps in the road and now I can feel them more "sharply" especially on cold tires. I also feel the slide at Aqua Minerale, when the car rotates and is pointing straight out. I wasn't feeling it before.


    Fanatec: [DPR] Damper Effect Strength: adjust the strength of the Damper Effects coming from the game and FanaLab, default is 100%.

    Theoretically DPR should be in control of Damper setting in game but this is not the case.


    I had to delete ACC folder in Documents. This also solved framerate issue I had and some strange "very long" loading for 4th gen nvme drive. KUNOS also have to explain how Damper and Dynamic Damping works. (Which "channels" to FFB they use.) I have a pet theory: After the update for some people, these effects gets picked up by wrong effect in our FanaLab and Fanatec Controls, so for some, everything gets mixed up. It was for me, FFB was crap before I deleted ACC folder in Documents.

  • It's weird that some are feeling more detail and I'm feeling less. I think I gotta delete those folders and just suck it up. I guess I got so used to the old feels, it's hard to re-adjust again.

  • edited December 2021

    Same here. New FFB in 1.8 update not feel so good as before. For me it"s like a downgrade in the details. I try it everything many hours.

    And still have mini freezing in the ACC, even in single player, especialy when leaving the pit.

    BTW, i"m using DD1

  • for me it was not necessary to delete the documents folder, for the new damper for my Dd1 I left the values ​​recommended by Fanatec, apart from the fei to make the details softer, with Lamborghini and Audi I have the damper in play between 10 / 15% maximum no oscillation.

    someone is having wobbles on the csw 2.5, my brother with Fanatec settings, damper in the game if he leaves the steering wheel wobbles alone

  • that it is not as before it is clear they have changed everything, so I think that I play sends different parameters from the previous ones through the new tires and suspension, so I don't think something similar to the previous one can be expected.

  • Jim GroveJim Grove Member
    edited December 2021

    I've just deleted ACC, removed everything from my documents and app data (and kept them aside) cleared out the registry and any residuals and reinstalled (31GB). It seems to have fixed most of the issues for me.

    It still feels different to 1.75 but (most of) the track textures and feels are back and the broken surface tile before turn 1 of Monza is fixed. I can't remember now exactly how different 1.75 was to 1.85 but I do know that it is better than it felt straight after 1.8 update (which felt horribly vague and lifeless). It's so different that I've had to re-dial the FFB back in on the wheelbase again.

    Complete uninstall may be a bit overkill but I needed to be sure.


    Edit: YES!!! Definitely cured! Once tyres are up to temps, car feels connected to the track, tight, energetic and nimble again with all the correct forces.



    praise Jebus!!!

  • But there is no solution for not having to delete all the documents folder, but possibly only the one concerning the ffb data

  • It was just a last resort for me. I did try deleting files and folders. It did change the ffb but NOT the detail. I decided to just completely obliterate the entire install and start again. It worked when I did that.

  • Felipe ViciniFelipe Vicini Member
    edited December 2021

    Maurice, I can confirm that even with the in game damper set to 0% if you have DPR at any value in fanalab you will get some damper effect through the wheel.


    Edit: NVM, seems like this is only when stopped.

  • For me the problem with not detailed feedback was because i had vJoy for iracing. I removed it and feedback is perfect again!

  • Hi, some setting tips for the Dd1 with the new physics and the damper. thanks in advance, has anyone noticed that sometimes even with the standard screen on the base there are the usual shots behind the wheel like when setting the different screens on the base? this with 432😑 drivers

  • ACC got a FFB update (2021and the recommended settings here are from 2019? can we relay on the "Recommended FFB Settings" in Fanalab? are the old settings still valid? thanks

  • edited December 2021

    ACC did not got a FFB update. They only got a new Damper Slider which imo should not be used as Damping destroys any kind of fine Details in the FFB.

    So yes, you can fully rely on the settings, they are still valid.

    Maybe they get updated in the future to add a recommendation of 0% for the new Damping Slider..

  • cool thanks :)

  • I saw Aris's video about using in-game damper to eliminate oscillations. And I'm seeing recommendations to leave it off here in the forum. What settings are you guys using to deal with oscillations on the straights?

  • this is Dominic's private answer


    Hi Giovanni,

    Thank you for the timestamp. Unfortunately with our Black Friday preparations I haven't been able to try the new ACC update yet! I wasn't aware that they had added an extra Damper slider. 

    Aris explains that it is influencing the 'pure' damper of the signal. For Fanatec products, this refers to the 'DPR' force feedback modifier. He recommends to have this at 100%, which is already in the Recommended Settings. Usually if a developer makes use of a specific feedback modifier like DPR, they are assuming that you have it at 100 on your base, and they set their scale to that. So then it is simply a case of personal preference as to what the in-game Damper value should be set at.

    Our 'NDP' filter does a similar job to this but without influence from the game. It is possible that their 'Damper' also adds some friction (Aris mentions 'constant friction' in his explanation), in which case it is also doing a similar job to our 'NFR' filter. As a result, if you run higher values of ACC's new 'Damper', you may want to run lower values of 'NDP' and 'NFR', because there's no point in having too many filters trying to do the same thing. 

    In end it's always a balance of stability (more damping) and responsiveness (less damping). The exact combination of values really depends on personal preference - there is no single right answer! :)

    Our current Recommended Settings are fairly low on damping filters anyway, so we might not want to change much based on this new update. But we will do some tests and update the settings soon.

    Best regards,

    Dom

  • edited December 2021

    HI. I wonder if after the 1.8 update the recomended settings shouldn't be changed? Is all the actual? I an on csl dd

  • in the end I eliminated the ndp from the driver and added the damper in play, leaving the other parameters unchanged, the gain in play at 60 and 40 in the driver instead of 45. I'm fine and I don't seem to have decreased the details

  • I did basically the same thing. Eliminated NDP, friction and inertia sliders and now just use damper in game. Feels better IMO. There also seems to be a weird bug with NDP and the latest DD1/2 firmware where you'll get unreasonably high damping when leaving pits and you have to stop and start again to eliminate it.

  • Some thoughts and experiences on the ffb:

    (Using a DD2 / MCL / CSP 3 by myself)

    • Clipping starts at ingame "FFB gain" of 40%. Best tested at "Eau Rouge".
    • Set ACC FFB gain to 30-40 % if you use a DD wheel which has enough power.
    • According to Aris FFB gain in the driver should be set between 40 and 60%. (He uses a DD1) :)
    • Dynamic Damping 100 is best for DD wheels. Lower values only for older hardware.
    • All effect sliders to zero. No need for DD wheels. And after the update no need over all.
    • The new ACC damping imo shows very little difference to the "natural damping" in the driver
    • ACC damping is depending to the gain in the driver --> e.g. 45% driver gain - 24-25% damping ingame just to avoid oscillation
    • NDP is depending to the gain in ACC --> e.g. 35% ingame gain - 13-14% NDP just to avoid oscillation
    • For testing create 2 config sets in the wheel, e.g. "SET1" with "NDP" 10-15 and "damper" 0, "SET2" with "NPD" 0 and "Damper 100"
    • Set ingame damper to your liking e.g. 25% and test by just change the SET while driving

    I personally feel very little difference between ACC damping and NDP. But using NDP is a bit more comfortable as it depends to the ingame gain and has not to be changed if you change the wheel gain.

    My settings:

    • SEN 900 (ingame the same - ACC sets the seering lock automatically in the PC-version)
    • FF 45 (for the very light MCL, other wheels may need higher values)
    • FFS linear
    • NDP 14
    • NFR 0
    • NIN 0
    • INT 2
    • FEI 70
    • FOR 100
    • SPR 0
    • DPR 0 (100 if Ingame damping is used)
    • BLI 80 (User Preference)
    • SHO 100
    • BRF (CSP 3 manual settings)

    In-Game Settings:

    • Steer lock: 900
    • Damper 0 (24 if NDP is not used)
    • Gain: 35
    • Min Force: 0
    • Dynamic Damping: 100
    • Road Effects: 0


    Cheers

    Andi


    I beg your forbearance. It has been many years since someone tried to teach me English.

  • Clipping explanation starts at 50 Min.

    I did the same test like Aris in eau rouge and had little red spikes down to 40 % gain.

    Depends on car setup and driving style.

  • edited December 2021

    Depends mostly on how high you set the FFB on the wheel. With FFB on the wheel set to 60-75 and in game gain 60 there is no Clipping. Clipping starts at around in game gain of 70 where even with FFB on the wheel set to 100 you would get Clipping.

    Aris FFB video is... Not the yellow of the egg... ;)

  • edited December 2021

    Clipping is caused by the superposition of the lateral and radial forces in the gaming software. It has nothing to do with the driver settings at all. The game doesn't even know what settings are made in the driver. It is a one way connection.

  • edited December 2021

    Not really but it's okay if you believe this :)

    Just try it for yourself. With a DD2 with Tuning Menu FFB set to 70 and FFS set to Peak and in game gain set to 60 if you get Clipping. I can tell you the result in Advance: no.

    Of course you do get Clipping when the Tuning Menu FFB is set to your value of 45, especially in conjunction with FFS set to Linear. Such a low value of course also needs a lower in game gain to not run into Clipping as your motor would Clip at around 9Nm already and in game gain of 60 would be more than the 9Nm your DD2 could output with such settings.

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