Think the problem is that I’m running a USB extender from the PlayStation to the original ISB cable from fanatec as my PS5 is 3m away
The USB extender is working fine for other PS5 accessories but not for the wheel so I think the cable supplied in some way is specific to fanatec which means my whole setup now is unusable
Hello everyone!!! Help!!! The DD1 driver base was 439, the lights were turned off when updating, the steering wheel is now turned on to the right and the fan is constantly running!
DD1 Help Needed. I updated to the 445 driver this morning from 433. I also installed Fanalab 1.66. Everything updated well. When I went into iRacing and went to configure the controls, the wheel started violently shaking back and forth. I turned the DD1 wheel base off and I started to smell burning coming from the wheel base. I unplugged the power supply and all other cables from the back of the wheel base. at this point, smoke started coming out of the front and back of the wheel base.
Is the wheel base fried? I'm scared to plug it back in.
i have a real strange issue here, everything is working as excepted but all the wheels I have appear to not be straight when I’m sat in the seat
I’ve measured everything on my rig and Eden rebuilt it but the same result, the pedals are fine it’s just the wheel / wheel base.
now the wheel base brackets are 100% level and straight so it appears to be something Inside the wheel base.
when I look at the hub the wheel connects too it comes out if the wheel base on a slight angle ( leans to the right ) which then makes the wheel not straight
i some to fanatec about this sent them pucscetc but they tell me it’s standard which I don’t understand as it just doesn’t feel right
Anyone else have this issue? It’s really bugging me as I sit straight in my seat but the wheel isn’t straight it’s almost like I have to tibker with the seat to sit on a slight angle
Hi I had the DD2 for 1 month and I I discovered the cogging/notchiness issue, feeling a resistance every X degrees of rotation:
Without power rotates smoothly, but when you power it after aprox. 40min I start to fill clearly the notches/steps while rotating, I guess where the magnets of the motor stator are.
Technically I understand is comming from the magnets of the motor and is unavoidable in this kind of motors, that's clear, but the issue is in some cases is not a vague "feeling", in some ocassions this effect is pretty strong and evident while there is no FFB forces feeding the base. While driving when the wheel is fed with all the strong FFB forces I can not tell if it is still there, if I decrease the FFB strength is there but I guess with normal FFB this overlap the effect.
I allways understood these efect was a "feeling in the background", "not rotating perfectly smooth" ok I can understand this.... but in my case in some moments is pretty strong and evident. I have the latest driver and firmware, I tried deleting the motor calibration and also after deleting it calibraring it again. When I deleted the calibration and calibrated again I was exited as inmediatly this solved, the issue, the cogging was very little and just a sligth feeling... but next day the issue came again :(.
It is not related with games or parameters, is happening without any game loaded, only with Windows OS.... and I tried many parameters, they change sligthly the feeling but it is clearly there.
As unfortunatelly I do not have the chance to try other DD2 or DD1, not idea id this is normal. Do you guys have the same issue?, I know in this kind of bases this cogging is unavoidable, but I mean it is not a slight feeling but in occasions is not a vague sensation of cogging but a pretty clear notches while rotating, is this normal?
I have a DD2 and a Formula v2 wheel that I'm happy with. I'm looking to add a GT3-style wheel and as much as I like the BMW wheel I can't justify in my head paying for something that works in a car I'll never drive. So I've settled on a Turn Racing wheel and one of their button plates or maybe an Ascher.
Do I have to use a Podium Hub, or can I use a less expensive Clubsport Quick Release? Both button plates are compatible with a Podium R300 wheel which I have so that's cool, and I can move the APM on the R300 to the Formula v2. Thanks.
has anybody ever had a loud clanking noise with their DD2 when doing the motor calibration in fanatec control panel? along with clanking noise while racing not as loud but also when racing and turning the wheel left then back to the right you can feel it like catch or bind up real bad and then it clanks and frees back up. no matter what wheel settings i use and no matter what the ffb is on!!!!! TY IN ADVANCE...
Is it possible for you to disclose the slew rates of the DD1 and DD2? If not, please acknowledge that you are not willing to disclose this info. I’m looking for information to make a better purchasing decision.
I am thinking of getting more serious about my ACC racing and have a series of questions for anyone able to help. I currently play ACC on Xbox Series X with a Logitech 923 and pedals:
1) What platform is best, Xbox Series X or PC - I have a great PC that exceeds the requirements for ACC. Should I switch to PC?
2) What wheelbase should I use - Fanatec Podium DD1 or DD2?
3) What wheel should I use - Fanatec CSL Elite Steering Wheel McLaren GT3 V2 or ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula V2.5 X
In advance, I really appreciate anyone and everyone's opinion as it will help me make the right choices.
Was a letargic moment for me when I noticed it yesterday :( I don't realy understand that why we had to wait months for the "announcement". And why we don't get any news if there will be a successor or not or what's the plan :(
today I fter very long time I have use Pimax 8K X .... I have DD2 + Formula 2,5 wheel ... (Pimax is latest version...
The poin is that during the race I see that the wheel lost control for 1-2 second and then works again... very anoing.... before works everihing like it should....
Comments
I’ve done this already does nothing
Think the problem is that I’m running a USB extender from the PlayStation to the original ISB cable from fanatec as my PS5 is 3m away
The USB extender is working fine for other PS5 accessories but not for the wheel so I think the cable supplied in some way is specific to fanatec which means my whole setup now is unusable
I’ve ordered a new USB A to USB B 3m cable from Audioquest to replace the extension lead and the original cable from Fanatec
Hopefully this fixes the problem
Stu
All sorted I bought an audioquest USB A to USB B 5m cable and now it’s all good I get to finally use my new rig
Now I need to find replacement RJ12 cables 😂
Stu
Hello everyone!!! Help!!! The DD1 driver base was 439, the lights were turned off when updating, the steering wheel is now turned on to the right and the fan is constantly running!
DD1 Help Needed. I updated to the 445 driver this morning from 433. I also installed Fanalab 1.66. Everything updated well. When I went into iRacing and went to configure the controls, the wheel started violently shaking back and forth. I turned the DD1 wheel base off and I started to smell burning coming from the wheel base. I unplugged the power supply and all other cables from the back of the wheel base. at this point, smoke started coming out of the front and back of the wheel base.
Is the wheel base fried? I'm scared to plug it back in.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Evening AlL
i have a real strange issue here, everything is working as excepted but all the wheels I have appear to not be straight when I’m sat in the seat
I’ve measured everything on my rig and Eden rebuilt it but the same result, the pedals are fine it’s just the wheel / wheel base.
now the wheel base brackets are 100% level and straight so it appears to be something Inside the wheel base.
when I look at the hub the wheel connects too it comes out if the wheel base on a slight angle ( leans to the right ) which then makes the wheel not straight
i some to fanatec about this sent them pucscetc but they tell me it’s standard which I don’t understand as it just doesn’t feel right
has anyone else noticed this or is it just me ?
Anyone else have this issue? It’s really bugging me as I sit straight in my seat but the wheel isn’t straight it’s almost like I have to tibker with the seat to sit on a slight angle
Fanalab does not recognize my Wheel Clubsport V 2.5.
What can I do?
I installed the latest driver and all possible updates.
Hi I had the DD2 for 1 month and I I discovered the cogging/notchiness issue, feeling a resistance every X degrees of rotation:
Without power rotates smoothly, but when you power it after aprox. 40min I start to fill clearly the notches/steps while rotating, I guess where the magnets of the motor stator are.
Technically I understand is comming from the magnets of the motor and is unavoidable in this kind of motors, that's clear, but the issue is in some cases is not a vague "feeling", in some ocassions this effect is pretty strong and evident while there is no FFB forces feeding the base. While driving when the wheel is fed with all the strong FFB forces I can not tell if it is still there, if I decrease the FFB strength is there but I guess with normal FFB this overlap the effect.
I allways understood these efect was a "feeling in the background", "not rotating perfectly smooth" ok I can understand this.... but in my case in some moments is pretty strong and evident. I have the latest driver and firmware, I tried deleting the motor calibration and also after deleting it calibraring it again. When I deleted the calibration and calibrated again I was exited as inmediatly this solved, the issue, the cogging was very little and just a sligth feeling... but next day the issue came again :(.
It is not related with games or parameters, is happening without any game loaded, only with Windows OS.... and I tried many parameters, they change sligthly the feeling but it is clearly there.
As unfortunatelly I do not have the chance to try other DD2 or DD1, not idea id this is normal. Do you guys have the same issue?, I know in this kind of bases this cogging is unavoidable, but I mean it is not a slight feeling but in occasions is not a vague sensation of cogging but a pretty clear notches while rotating, is this normal?
does anyone know when the dd1 will be available for purchase again?
I have a DD2 and a Formula v2 wheel that I'm happy with. I'm looking to add a GT3-style wheel and as much as I like the BMW wheel I can't justify in my head paying for something that works in a car I'll never drive. So I've settled on a Turn Racing wheel and one of their button plates or maybe an Ascher.
Do I have to use a Podium Hub, or can I use a less expensive Clubsport Quick Release? Both button plates are compatible with a Podium R300 wheel which I have so that's cool, and I can move the APM on the R300 to the Formula v2. Thanks.
Hello..I have a question.
Can anyone tell me if the Gran turismo wheel from the GT dd pro base works on the podium F1 base on the console PS5? thanks
As described in the webshop description, yes it works but the colored Dpad wont work and Torque will be limited to Low Torque.
Where could i find this information?
In the webshop description of the GT DD PRO.
has anybody ever had a loud clanking noise with their DD2 when doing the motor calibration in fanatec control panel? along with clanking noise while racing not as loud but also when racing and turning the wheel left then back to the right you can feel it like catch or bind up real bad and then it clanks and frees back up. no matter what wheel settings i use and no matter what the ffb is on!!!!! TY IN ADVANCE...
That is definitely not normal at all and you should immediately contact the support.
How can I wipe all the firmware off of the wheelbase and start fresh?
You can't
@Fanatec
Is it possible for you to disclose the slew rates of the DD1 and DD2? If not, please acknowledge that you are not willing to disclose this info. I’m looking for information to make a better purchasing decision.
I am thinking of getting more serious about my ACC racing and have a series of questions for anyone able to help. I currently play ACC on Xbox Series X with a Logitech 923 and pedals:
1) What platform is best, Xbox Series X or PC - I have a great PC that exceeds the requirements for ACC. Should I switch to PC?
2) What wheelbase should I use - Fanatec Podium DD1 or DD2?
3) What wheel should I use - Fanatec CSL Elite Steering Wheel McLaren GT3 V2 or ClubSport Steering Wheel Formula V2.5 X
In advance, I really appreciate anyone and everyone's opinion as it will help me make the right choices.
Hello, do we have any news on the availability of the dd1?
no news, no.
Ok, thank you.
I hope it will be available again as soon as possible
Yeah, I'm also waiting for poduim F1 since months, but no products, no news, no dates, nothing :(
Now the podium is discontinued :(
Was a letargic moment for me when I noticed it yesterday :( I don't realy understand that why we had to wait months for the "announcement". And why we don't get any news if there will be a successor or not or what's the plan :(
I hope that a new 15nm dd will be announced for Ps, also because at the moment fanatec is not selling top of the range fanatec for Playstation
Hi,
today I fter very long time I have use Pimax 8K X .... I have DD2 + Formula 2,5 wheel ... (Pimax is latest version...
The poin is that during the race I see that the wheel lost control for 1-2 second and then works again... very anoing.... before works everihing like it should....
without VR pimax everithing works ok...
what this it could be??? please for help
best regards
alesk76