Fanatec Driver 222 Beta released (Windows10)

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  • Nope... I Have Re-Done My Global Settings because i Turned the Advanced Settings off... That Setting is for Controllers... The Soft Clipp Setting being on in there Makes a Difference with the FFB with the wheel... Thats why i was able to Run FFB at 25 because Soft Clipping Boost Low Signals and Cuts High FFB signal to keep all FFB Signals within a Certain Range.... My New Settings I Feel the Same but better because i use the same in Car FFB but wheel center is Calmer and FFB is More Balaced while still very powerful... Once i finish the Scoup Knee Settings its done.

    Edit: The auto FFB Means Nothing without Good Global and in Car FFB settings.
    "Help me Grimey Dog, you're my only hope" :)


    i wll Post the settings in a bit

  • @ G-dog <hope you don't mind that ]

    Have you heard from Natalie lately? She has been AWOL for a bit

  • Too bad to hear Trevor..but I know things will work out okay.
  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator
    Quick question. The firmware now includes update for all accessories in one package correct? Eg; Clubsport shifter fw will be in 223,226,etc?
  • I haven't heard from her either... We Gonna Have to Form a Search Party if she dont show up Soon!
  • G-Dog    I sent her a pm but no reply..  hope it's because she's having too much fun. .
  • @Joseph, yes it's a full package driver...but V3 pedals have to be updated separately.
  • @Grimey Dog : Nice find that disabling the advanced in pCars Options fix the strange slow speed FFB behavior and decrease dramatically the oscillations.
  • Joseph GossenJoseph Gossen Member, Moderator
    edited September 2015
    @Joseph, yes it's a full package driver...but V3 pedals have to be updated separately.
    Pedals are good to go just waiting for my Shifter. @Antoine btw do the screws that come with the RS1 fit the Shifter or do I need to pick them up separately?It says comes with tools and screws needed for pedals,shifter and wheel attachment. 

    feel like a kid in a candy store waiting for that thing!
  • edited September 2015
    @Grimey Dog : Nice find that disabling the advanced in pCars Options fix the strange slow speed FFB behavior and decrease dramatically the oscillations.
    The Advanced tab soft clipping setting has a huge Effect.... The Nature of Soft clipping is to Reduce High Signals and Boost Low Signals to keep them all within a specified Range... that advanced settings are for Fame pads Not wheels so there might be too much + or - going on in that setting to be used with wheels... When i had that setting on i ran in game FFB at 25 and the wheel.was very powerful, Now that its off i run 100 and the wheel Still very powerful and has more Stable.wheel center....there are a lot of Redundent settings in PCars.
    Sowly but surely im figuring all the settings out... Next im going to play with the Body settingz
  • Why I have to "auto-recalibrate" every time the fanatec v3 pedals? If I connect them directly to the base works fine, but via usb i have to recalibrate every time.

    It's a driver / firmware fault?
  • @Joseph, yes it's a full package driver...but V3 pedals have to be updated separately.
    Pedals are good to go just waiting for my Shifter. @Antoine btw do the screws that come with the RS1 fit the Shifter or do I need to pick them up separately?It says comes with tools and screws needed for pedals,shifter and wheel attachment. 

    feel like a kid in a candy store waiting for that thing!
    No need to buy extra screws mate.. it's all there. At least in the AC version!! And I know the feeling!! ;)

  • Why I have to "auto-recalibrate" every time the fanatec v3 pedals? If I connect them directly to the base works fine, but via usb i have to recalibrate every time.

    It's a driver / firmware fault?
    Do you mean that you have to push the pedals first before they give proper 100% signal?
  • Well I heard back from support. Their solution, download the manual and learn how to set the hub/base in PC-Mode. How can I set the hub in PC-mode if the hub doesn't work??? I'm being very patient here. But my nerves are wearing thin. Anyway, I asked Johannes to please read in detail my description of the problem and trouble shooting measures as posted here, and copied into my support request. I also re-iterated everything in my reply email. I hope they read it, as there is a lot of detail. So, I guess this is no longer the place to discuss this problem, since I don't think it is firmware/driver related. I tried 205, 219, 223, 226. None work. So off I go.
    Thanks again everyone for trying to assist. I will update you, though, as things progress.
    Cheers! 

    PS, I hope you find Nat in good shape.

  • edited September 2015
    Well I heard back from support. Their solution, download the manual and learn how to set the hub/base in PC-Mode. How can I set the hub in PC-mode if the hub doesn't work??? I'm being very patient here. But my nerves are wearing thin. Anyway, I asked Johannes to please read in detail my description of the problem and trouble shooting measures as posted here, and copied into my support request. I also re-iterated everything in my reply email. I hope they read it, as there is a lot of detail. So, I guess this is no longer the place to discuss this problem, since I don't think it is firmware/driver related. I tried 205, 219, 223, 226. None work. So off I go.
    Thanks again everyone for trying to assist. I will update you, though, as things progress.
    Cheers! 

    PS, I hope you find Nat in good shape.

    Trevor Try 1 More thing To put the Hub into PC Mode Try Pushing the Buttons (Double Squares and Y) on the Top of the Hub its self... Not the Button Pods on the Rim... you could have a Bad Button Pod or 1 of the Button Pods may Not be Firmly pressed into place... Have you done it this way yet??? Also if you have done this already... Have you Opened the Hub to make sure all connections are Securly pressed into place... I would Open Hub pull out each Connection 1 by 1 and make sure they are Seated and Pressed in Properly... Maybe 1 was put in the wrong way when when it was put together... with soo many of the Hubs Buttons joined together as Duplicates a missaligned pin would cause problems.

    The Hub Comes apart very easy...it Looks complicated but its Not. Just take your time and be tender with it... Cant Hurt to take it apart and check it.

  • Why I have to "auto-recalibrate" every time the fanatec v3 pedals? If I connect them directly to the base works fine, but via usb i have to recalibrate every time.

    It's a driver / firmware fault?
    Do you mean that you have to push the pedals first before they give proper 100% signal?

    Exactly. Every time I connect them via USB to the PC I need to re-calibrate. I mean that I have to check "Enable manual mode" and then uncheck. 

    If I connect the pedals and depress the pedals it won't give 100% signal --> check "Enable manual mode" --> uncheck "Enable manual mode" --> all pedals register 100%. I've to do this every time I want to play.
  • Okay, @Grimey. I'll give that a go. I haven't heard back from support yet today so I'll see if any connections are loose. BTW, I did try both the hub buttons and the Hot Keys to boot to PC mode. But nothing works. I did launch bootloader with the start button held for 8 seconds. But with the hub attached, everything is dead and nothing recognized in the Driver Window. I'll let you know how I make out. I am quite handy, as you can see from my home made rig, so am not at all intimidated by taking stuff apart. I even have a small parts box full of left over screws and wires after I do one of these disassemble and repair jobs. LOL. :-)

  • Why I have to "auto-recalibrate" every time the fanatec v3 pedals? If I connect them directly to the base works fine, but via usb i have to recalibrate every time.

    It's a driver / firmware fault?
    Do you mean that you have to push the pedals first before they give proper 100% signal?

    Exactly. Every time I connect them via USB to the PC I need to re-calibrate. I mean that I have to check "Enable manual mode" and then uncheck. 

    If I connect the pedals and depress the pedals it won't give 100% signal --> check "Enable manual mode" --> uncheck "Enable manual mode" --> all pedals register 100%. I've to do this every time I want to play.
    Uncheck/disable manual mode, press all pedals once and close window with okay. Normally the pedals should be recognized....if not, try updating the pedals they need seperate updating via the pedal function window --> update
  • Why I have to "auto-recalibrate" every time the fanatec v3 pedals? If I connect them directly to the base works fine, but via usb i have to recalibrate every time.

    It's a driver / firmware fault?
    Do you mean that you have to push the pedals first before they give proper 100% signal?

    Exactly. Every time I connect them via USB to the PC I need to re-calibrate. I mean that I have to check "Enable manual mode" and then uncheck. 

    If I connect the pedals and depress the pedals it won't give 100% signal --> check "Enable manual mode" --> uncheck "Enable manual mode" --> all pedals register 100%. I've to do this every time I want to play.
    Uncheck/disable manual mode, press all pedals once and close window with okay. Normally the pedals should be recognized....if not, try updating the pedals they need seperate updating via the pedal function window --> update

    Im Not alone with this issue... LOL... The New Driver Armin posted seems ok so far....but i have Not Really put it through the Paces yet... only 30min or so of use... But All Pedals Read Correctly for the 30min so seems like there is Hope.... Did a Few Min on PC and a Few Min on PS4.

  • Report in. As per Grimey's suggestions. I opened the hub. Disconnected all the pod connectors, reseated them. Ran all the drivers again. This time, after updating the base, I connected the hub while the base was still powered on. The tuning LED showed 116, then flashed Cal. At that point I'm very encouraged. I was even able to tune the S-1 with all the hub buttons. But I am not in Xbox mode. I tried to engage that mode, but to no avail. I powered off the base, restarted, then all the same issues. No Xbox mode, no buttons work, no Tuning LED. Again, tried 219, and from a different PC. Epic fail. So, waiting on Support.
  • Trevor,  when you powered it back on was it connected to either the PC or the Xbox?  when I disconnect my base/Xhub  and power it off then on again it goes to default green light Xbox mode.
  • joe rugojoe rugo Member
    edited September 2015
    @ Trevor, I know this is repetitive but bear with me ... if you remove the Hub   attach the base to the PC and power it on .. does it go to PC mode?
  • It was worth a try...
  • Trevor GeddisTrevor Geddis Member
    edited September 2015
    Joe, what with all the flashing of firmware and such, I have been connected to the PC. When I start up, the start button glows all red and stays that way. Now, I thought last night like you suggested. I turned every thing off at the source, because the start button on the base does not do anything but start if the hub is connected. I plugged the base USB into the Xbone console. I start the base without the hub and it stays all red. I connect the hub and it stays all red. I turned off at the source again. Attach the hub, start up, still all red. 
    And since the buttons both on the pods and the top of the hub do not function, I can't get any combination to work to switch over to Xbox mode. 
    Oddly though, like I related a few posts back, only once was I able to get the buttons on the hub to work. But not in Xbox mode. 
    Still waiting to hear back from support. 
     
  • Trevor GeddisTrevor Geddis Member
    edited September 2015
    I'm going out on a limb here. Since I connected my V3 pedals to the rig, all these issues came to light. My wheel/hub worked with the CSR-E pedals. But not since connecting the V3's. When I updated the pedals to 226 directly, they show up in the driver window and I can conduct all the tests and make min and max adjustments, etc. But when I connect them to the base with the RJ12, then the base to the PC without the hub, the pedals scales show in the driver window, but when I press the pedals there is no reaction (blue bars) in the scales. I will try the new pedals firmware in combination with the 226 wheel firmware. Can't hurt to try.

    No, still not working. But again, when I start the base without the hub, then attach the hub, the CAL led flashes (but nothing cals). I press the tuning button, goes to S-1, I get function from the top pad buttons and the Funky button. I can even turn the base off with the start button. But I can't get to Xbox mode. None of the buttons work. This getting weirder by the minute. 

    I just started up again, no hub. I attached the hub and now there is force in the wheel. CAL worked this time, but with the top pad Menu and A buttons, but only after I held them for about ten seconds. Pod buttons still no effect. Still can't get to Xbox mode. Top View and X button, nor pod View and X buttons. Stuck in PC mode. Very strange.

    Okay, stuck in PC mode. So I load iRacing, run configure, no controller detected. No wheel, no pedals. 
    That's it. I give up.
  • Trevor,

    When the V2 base without the hub is powered on it will always go to PC mode no matter what... so ,

    1] on your PC ... open the fanatic controller window

    2] connect the V2 base only [ no pedals, hub , or shifter ] to the PC via USB

    3] press the "START" button to power up the base ...

    4] after the base cycles the light should be red and the "club sport base" should now show in the window. If you get to this point then your base is most likely not causing the issue .

    5] re-flash the firmware following the instructions in the manual starting on page 21

    if this goes well and the firmware loads your base should be fine ....  the lights will still remain RED...  

  • @ Trevor, if all went according to my last post ... now connect the Hub.. and hub only to the V2 base

    1] open the Fanatec controller window on you PC.

    2] connect the V2 base to you PC via the USB

    3] power on the V2 base using the "start button"   simply press the start button briefly ... do not hold it.

    4] the V2 should cycle and the lights should be green ..

    5] enter PC mode by pressing the "double square" and "Y"  at the same time

    6] the "club sport wheel"  should be showing I blue in the controller window

    7] double click on club sport wheel and update the firmware by  following the instructions in the manual

    briefly click on the update tab .  click update club sport base  a new box should appear on the desk top saying "the club wheel"  has been started in update mode and the lights of the start button should now be blue.

    click the start firmware update, in the new widow click connect, click "flash firmware"

    after the process end  CAL should be flashing on the tuning LED and the lights are now red..

    exit the update window...and re-open the Fanatec controller window ....enter PC mode ..double square +Y  and open the club sport base . you should see a picture of the Xbox hub ...

    you can now perform a button test by pressing a button ... it will flash blue on the picture of the button box if it is detected.....   if you get this far and all is well   it is time to update the pedals ... SEPARATLY via the USB cable connected to the PC ... let me know if you need moral support with the pedals because I haven't done that since day one and will need to go through the procedure myself before I commit to this blog..   

    calibrate the wheel instructions on page 23 of the hub manual 

    exit

  • Yup, Joe. I did all of the above. About 15 times, different versions different PC'c. The base flashes fine. The pedals flash fine. Always have throughout this ordeal. The hub is the problem, I am convinced. The issues arise only after the hub is attached to the base. 
    I just heard back from support. Now they want a video. hehehehahaha AHHHH.
  • Trevor FYI: I just found out .. if the base is not connected to either a PC or an Xbox it will stay in PC mode if you press the double square plus Y ... when it is connected to either it will switch between modes..

  • joe rugojoe rugo Member
    edited September 2015

    TIP of the day !!!  be careful which buttons you press together when you connected to the Xbox and not watching the screen !!!  while typing and testing the last post I got to a screen on the Xbox I've never seen ...oops

    update :  one more click and apparently I would have uninstalled Forza 6

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