You Know with FW 116 you Have to use Auto Calibration on the Pedals Right??? Make Sure you Have Manual Calibration off on your V3 Pedals on PC....if you check the Manual Calibration button on PC the Pedals Remember that by themselves!!! Make sure its off and set to auto Cal...then Try again...Maybe even try hooking the Hub up without the Pedals Connected since it worked before the V3's
Sounds like Pcars on X1 is improving nicely. Correct?
You Know with FW 116 you Have to use Auto Calibration on the Pedals Right??? Make Sure you Have Manual Calibration off on your V3 Pedals on PC....if you check the Manual Calibration button on PC the Pedals Remember that by themselves!!! Make sure its off and set to auto Cal...then Try again...Maybe even try hooking the Hub up without the Pedals Connected since it worked before the V3's
I agree without v3 pedals. If still own other pedals try them. See what happens.
XB1 PCars is Getting Better but i Still Prefer the PS4 version Cleaner Graphics and Less Fram Rate Drop... i have them both.... im thinking about getting the PC version also... But im gonna wait till its on Sale with all the DL Content included. by then i will Have My next Gaming PC!!! Going Full Ultra on the PC Specs Too!!! 2 weeks Maybe 3... it will be My Birthday Gift to Me... LOL... Any Excuse is better than None :-bd
Sounds like Pcars on X1 is improving nicely. Correct?
You Know with FW 116 you Have to use Auto Calibration on the Pedals Right??? Make Sure you Have Manual Calibration off on your V3 Pedals on PC....if you check the Manual Calibration button on PC the Pedals Remember that by themselves!!! Make sure its off and set to auto Cal...then Try again...Maybe even try hooking the Hub up without the Pedals Connected since it worked before the V3's
I agree without v3 pedals. If still own other pedals try them. See what happens
Yeah, thanks for the tips guys. I did all that over the weekend. Disconnected the V3 pedals As soon as the Hub is attached, nothing. Hooked up the CSR-E pedals. Nothing. The Auto Cal button is left unchecked in the pedals driver window. Still nothing. There is some really weird stuff going on every time I disconnect and reconnect the hub. Randomly and in no particular sequence:
There was force in the wheel twice after calibration, but every other the time the wheel just free-wheels., CAL led flashes sometimes. Sometimes not. Tuning display illuminates and I can set the tuning parameters with the Funky Button. Then sometimes not. And today, the Xbox start button glowed green, but only twice. Even still, no communication when connected to the console. And none of the Xbox pod buttons work. Never. I took the cover off the hub and disconnected/re-seated all the pod connectors, all of them. Got some communication, but still the hub disconnects when attached to the base. And here's another one. Without the hub attached, and with the Base Driver window open, when I turn the steering wheel shaft, no hub attached, the slider in the steering readout moves. Anyway. The video, for what it is worth, is on the way to support. Here it is if anyone want to see it.
Trevor I wish I had a solution for you but unfortunately I don't. But tech support is much smarter than me in these matters and I'm sure they'll figure it out. We are sorry this is happening. Our goal is to get you racing and keep you racing.
Trevor, did you try disconnecting the base from the PC, attaching the hub and then opening the controller window, connecting the base/hub to the PC and then powering it on ... ???
Yeah, Joe. Did that. Did not recognize. Then tried this. Turned off the PC. Turned on the base/hub. Then turned on the PC. Like connecting peripherals like printers to a PC, then powering on the PC and it recognizes the hardware. Nope. Didn't work.
Thanks Trevor, from your video [nice job by the way] it really looks like something in the hub has gone wrong . Have you heard from support. If not , and your bored . you can try removing a button box to see if on of them is the issue. I think the connection points are mapped out in the manual . I can't see a missing button box causing and issue ... but I may be wrong. Process of elimination
Ps. to make life easy you don't need to re-install the rim. If it were me I would start with the RB LB boxes and then the funky switch.. next A,B box... can't hurt at this point.
LOL, I considered that. Swap an RB LB pod for an AB XY pod. But at this point, even if that proves one of the pods is defective, well, it means the Hub is a brick. So, I'll wait for Support to get back with shipping instructions. Oh, and yes, they did get back after the video. Told me to load 226 and start the base without the hub. I advised them I already did that, as explained in my request for support and also shown in the video.
Will update as this progresses.
Did someone say "Patience is a virtue"? Well call me virtuous.
By the way , I am thinking <dangerous] that if you removed the RB & LB pods and one of them is the culprit ... you can still play Xbox Forza and that way Fanatec could just ship a replacement pod... think that the idea behind all the modualar design.
Will the Xbox hub function properly connected to Xbox with just the AB, XY and FunkySwitch pods attached? Or does it require all pod to be in place and functioning properly?
The hub will work without every front button boxes. There are people who use only the top button box for pc, cause they use the keyboard or external button boxes. Yes, button boxes are inter changeable...the connector on the pcb determines the button layout. So it's just a matter of replacing the button caps.
The pods are generic. In the manual and in the video about assembly they can be put anywhere. So. I am going to swap out the connections inside the hub. The pig tails look long enough to reach the other connectors without having to unscrew and re-mount the pods.
I just caught up on my morning reads- news, sports, emails, Facebook, now here. I'm off now to experiment a bit. Will keep you posted.
Well, it was worth a try, but still nothing. Exact same results. Flash 226 to the base, connect the hub and CAL flashes, Funky Stick works for S-1 settings, no buttons on the pods work. And red start button and fans stay on with no affect. Have to power down at the source.
I hope support gets back to me today with an RMA number and return instructions. So far, since Monday, all we are doing is experimenting to no avail, and wasting time. In past, when I sent stuff back for repair, it took at least 2 weeks to get it back.
I haven't read all your attempt but if CAL is flashing you have to press the tuning button in front of the hub display then press both joysticks. It is only once the calibration is done that other buttons work (on my Porsche Rim).
Is possible to connect CSPV3 directly by USB to PS4 system in combination with other wheel like T300 from thursmaster? Is there a limitation in the last SDK Update that has been recently released to do that?
Is possible to connect CSPV3 directly by USB to PS4 system in combination with other wheel like T300 from thursmaster? Is there a limitation in the last SDK Update that has been recently released to do that?
Hate to be the bearer of bad news But NOPE... I don't think that's going to Happen [-X
Is possible to connect CSPV3 directly by USB to PS4 system in combination with other wheel like T300 from thursmaster? Is there a limitation in the last SDK Update that has been recently released to do that?
Hate to be the bearer of bad news But NOPE... I don't think that's going to Happen [-X
Hi, on PC this method is supported, why it's not supported for PS4? T300 connected to USB1 and CSPV3 to USB2... Which is the reason or the impediment?
is it in PC mode ? most of the people here in the last week are dealing with V2 bases. But if you go back to page 16 of this thread you will find the procedure that works for me and my V2... Not sure which driver the GT2 uses .. hope you get it fixed soon ... might try messaging Grimey directly , I believe he has a GT2 .. on the shelf
Been Soo long since i used the GT2 im Rusty with Exact info about it.
Check all Cables/Connections and Make sure the wires are Good...Thats over Looked Very often wires do get Shorts/Broken Wires inside and look Good but they are bad...also Make sure PC is Freshly Restarted with a Fresh Driver Install... Double Check that you are Putting wheel into PC mode Correctly...I provided the Link to the GT2 PDF if you dont have it or are Not sure.
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by then i will Have My next Gaming PC!!! Going Full Ultra on the PC Specs Too!!! 2 weeks Maybe 3... it will be My Birthday Gift to Me... LOL... Any Excuse is better than None :-bd
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Trevor I wish I had a solution for you but unfortunately I don't. But tech support is much smarter than me in these matters and I'm sure they'll figure it out. We are sorry this is happening. Our goal is to get you racing and keep you racing.
So, my question is this:
Will the Xbox hub function properly connected to Xbox with just the AB, XY and FunkySwitch pods attached? Or does it require all pod to be in place and functioning properly?
And as a follow up:
Are the pods interchangeable ?
Yes, button boxes are inter changeable...the connector on the pcb determines the button layout. So it's just a matter of replacing the button caps.
Is possible to connect CSPV3 directly by USB to PS4 system in combination with other wheel like T300 from thursmaster?
Is there a limitation in the last SDK Update that has been recently released to do that?
Hi, on PC this method is supported, why it's not supported for PS4? T300 connected to USB1 and CSPV3 to USB2... Which is the reason or the impediment?
Even Better Joe... Heres the Link for the PDF.
Been Soo long since i used the GT2 im Rusty with Exact info about it.
Check all Cables/Connections and Make sure the wires are Good...Thats over Looked Very often wires do get Shorts/Broken Wires inside and look Good but they are bad...also Make sure PC is Freshly Restarted with a Fresh Driver Install... Double Check that you are Putting wheel into PC mode Correctly...I provided the Link to the GT2 PDF if you dont have it or are Not sure.