Also , I noticed that the button mapping was off with the V219/FW116Beta, they worked fine in game , but were off in the Fanatec controller test window.
So, after my wheel has spent two weeks on vacation in sunny California, getting it's firmware download problem straight, it comes home with Firmware 116 installed on the base... {driver 219Beta?} set it up and all functions well [ so far] , that is until I start a Forza 6 race in "N" once again [ same as in V226/FW116 Beta] ... So , I decide to download the V219/FW94 from the product page , which worked fine with Forza 6 , only problem was [and the reason it went on vacation] the firmware update would show a "device not recognized, operation failed" in the last line of the message box. Well , the same thing still happens, so I tried V226/FW116 from the product page... that installs ok.... but still back to "N" at the stat of the race... please fix this , please ! You only have a split second before another IndyCar slams into while you search for 1st gear thank you.
?? So this is not normal that I have to jam into first gear after the countdown?
@ Steve, default gear at countdown with the xbox controller is "1st" ... with Firmware 94 it is "1st" .... with the others it is "N"... so no it is not the way the game is set up.
@ Grimey, I had it right the whole time, apparently my base didn't like being updated by my laptop! I got up at 4am. and spent two hours updating the desktop I haven't turned on since March, and then downloaded the V219/FW94 package and ran the update procedure. Bingo!!
We have lift off.... too bad Fanatec support didn't suggest that option, they could have saved $80 of the bottom line.
You mean that Fanatec Support never suggest to try and update the firmware on a different PC? That's rather hard to believe, it's a standard response if updating firmware does not work on a PC.
Okay fellow fun seekers. I have some good news. FINALLY!
Thursday I picked up my V2 base and Xbone Hub from the post office. I was also glad to see that Service (Support) had refunded my $59.00 CAN shipping cost.
I followed the complete connection protocol for connecting and flashing the devices. V2 base is NOT powered on. NOT connected to the lap top (here on in called PC).
I connected the V3 pedals to the PC with usb, opened the 226 FW configuration window. Pedals recognized.
Double clicked on the pedals in the window. Properties window opens. Pedals blue bar graph react as they should.
I click on the update tab, I click on Update button.
The update runs and completes successfully.
I close the update window. I open the Configuration window once again. Double click on the V3 pedals in the connected devices window. The Properties window opens and I check the version. It is 1.12.
I again click on the update tab. I search for the downloaded 1.15 .hex file (link provided in this discussion by Armin) and click on the update button. Update shows completed successfully. Close the update window.
Open the configuration window again. Double click on the pedals, Properties window opens. Click on Update tab and confirm the version is 1.15. Close the Properties window. Close the Configuration window.
I disconnect the pedals usb cable from the PC
I connect the V2 base to the PC with usb.
I open the Configuration window.
I turn on the base (do not hold for 8 seconds). The start button remains red (PC mode).
The Configuration window recognizes the CSW base. I double click on the CSW base in the window.
The Configuration window opens to show the Propertries window, V3 pedals blue bar graph shows proper function. No hub attached.
I leave the base powered on, I connect the Xbone Hub.
The CSW base recognizes the hub and the Start button light turns Green. (no longer in PC mode)
There is no device recognized in the configuration window.
Press the "view" button and "Y" buttons simultaneously. The Start button turns red (now in PC mode)
The configuration window now shows the CSW wheel is recognized.
Double click on the CSW wheel and the Properties page opens and shows the pedals graph and the Xbone Hub graphic.
Press all buttons on the hub to confirm they work, and press the pedals to confirm they work in the hub graphic.
Turn off the base, leave the usb cable connected to the PC for PC gaming. Connect the usb cable to the Xbone for Xbox gaming.
Here is a link to the video showing these steps. No audio is needed.
Things to remember. Connect the pedals to the pedals port, not to the data port.
When you turn on the now-configured CSW V2 plus Xbone hub, it defaults to Xbox mode (green Start button). To put the wheel in PC mode, press the "View" plus "Y" buttons simultaneously.
This has been a sometimes painful, sometimes frustrating, sometimes funny (thanks due to the support from the crew here) adventure.
So the good news is, last night I was able to run a few races in FM6 for the first time. I got through the 3 introductory races and a couple of other races. Did some laps on Indy in an Indy car.
I still haven't fine tuned my S-1 settings on the hub and have to make some brake dampener settings on the pedals. I hope to do that today.
This is the final chapter of my novel.
FINIS - THE END
*** Heaves a big sigh of relief ***
) )
Congrats buddy! This has been a long road for ya. Glad you're racing again.
@ Remco, believe it.... I started a support request and the first response from them was ... pack it up and send it back. If they had suggested that I try a different PC , it would have saved me some thumb abuse, and Fanatec some cash.
@ Steve, yeah, what a pain in the butt that is with starting in neutral. A second lost at the start can make or break a race. It has been reported here and we are hopeful the devs will fix this glitch on the next firmware update. Stay tuned.
?? So this is not normal that I have to jam into first gear after the countdown?
This is ZXEVA from Taiwan. Want have a discussion with you on wheel issue. I'm not sure if you will check your mail box in FANATEC so I post another one message here. My English is not good so please be bear with me, thank you.
Few days ago I found I had the same problem like you had on my FANATEC 911 GT2 Wheel and ClubSport Pedal V3:
In "Test Drive Unlimited" and "Project Gotham Racing 4", D-pad(joy-stick) doesn't work well.
In "Project Gotham Racing 4" it will be always "UP", in "Test Drive " it is totally useless. After quit the game, the shifter paddles all become "A" button function.
In "Forza Series", handbrake is always on. (I do have a ClubSport handbrake), and D-Pad cannot go down.
My platform is Xbox360, all FM and Driver had been updated to the latest version:
I'm not sure which part could cause this problem. The Wheel or the pedal, or both? I read your post and it said there is a new FW for V3 pedal which just only a BETA version (but looks like it works). I want to ask did the problem on your CSR-E wheel had been fixed after you installed the 1.15 version V3 pedal FM? Or there is a way that I can re-install the FM for the wheel and pedal.
I also received my V2 Base two days ago, hope there will be no problem on it, I didn't test it yet.
If someone else can give me a good advice, I would be appreciate too.
Thank you for you reading this letter, look forward to your response.
@Chiang. Fanatec Support (Fabian) advised that the pedals FW 1.15 was the issue with the brake always on and the lack of function with the joy stick when on the Xbox 360. I tried a shooter game, Halo, and the joy stick would not work on it, either. Note that the joy stick functioned okay on the Xbox Live home page, when navigating all the menus and the different shopping or choice options.
Only when in an actual game did the joy stick stop working.
Fabian said he would alert the developers and to keep an eye on the forum blogs for news of an update/fix.
So far, nothing has been posted.
In this thread, the 222 FW was a beta. The latest FW, as you are aware, is 226. It has 1.12 included. But there was another .hex file posted a few pages back, 1.15, that you have to load manually in the update screen. But, it does not work on the Xbox 360, as we are discussing.
Sorry buddy, but we are in the same boat. My CSR-E (with 757 FW) and V3 pedals with 226 FW do not like the Xbox 360 any more. They will remain useless until the devs come up with a fix.
For what it is worth, when I use the combination on the PC, for iRacing for example, everything works fine. But I'm out of luck for my Forza games.
I've gone up and down on my wheel firmware and still finding that FW 122 is giving me the least issues / most stability on Windows 8.1 My pedals are still in 1.07 factory and have been working flawlessly with my CSHB/v2 etc since arrival.
This seems very stable so far, and all functions are working as expected with only the odd issue now and again (which may or may not be related)
Great to see you back FW 122 is from which package? I have been running 110 on the wheel and 115 on the pedals. 115 seemed to eliminate the loss of throttle/brake pressure.
Wheel base is on the way back from repair so I'm not yet sure if it will still have 110 or if they updated it.
So I just got my Wheel Base V2, with my CS Universal XBox One wheel, with the fanatec flat bottom wheel. I plugged in the wheel base, updated firmware 94, and back to the XBox One to race. I got halfway through my first race, everything worked perfectly, shifter, brake pedals, wheel etc. Then it just stopped. I turn it off and on, it spins, flashes 094, and the illuminates full green. I plug it back into my PC and it gets "Device Not Recognized/Malfunctioned." I do this with the wheel in and out, with the pedals and shifter plugged in and not plugged in. Nothing. Boot mode flashes a blue light in the lower left quadrant, and is still not recognized by the PC. Any advice? I literally opened this thing last night, incredibly disappointed.
Did you also download the full X1 hub ?!!! After the base started up, you'll have to set it in pc mode, by pressing the 'double squares button' and 'Y button' simultaneous. ONLY then it's recognized by pc. Then you'd best also update with driver V226 fw 116...that one's really good. First delete the V219 driver from your pc and install the new...update the base and go. Plaug everything in when updating, also the hub!
So I just got my Wheel Base V2, with my CS Universal XBox One wheel, with the fanatec flat bottom wheel. I plugged in the wheel base, updated firmware 94, and back to the XBox One to race. I got halfway through my first race, everything worked perfectly, shifter, brake pedals, wheel etc. Then it just stopped. I turn it off and on, it spins, flashes 094, and the illuminates full green. I plug it back into my PC and it gets "Device Not Recognized/Malfunctioned." I do this with the wheel in and out, with the pedals and shifter plugged in and not plugged in. Nothing. Boot mode flashes a blue light in the lower left quadrant, and is still not recognized by the PC. Any advice? I literally opened this thing last night, incredibly disappointed.
Jameson. Follow the step by step I posted in the link below. It is a few posts back in this discussion.There is also a video from Fanatec Support in that link to show you how to get set up and going. Make sure your pedals are plugged into the pedal port. Not the Data port. I had the same problem you describe and now I'm good to go. Give that a try and good luck.
Great to see you back FW 122 is from which package? I have been running 110 on the wheel and 115 on the pedals. 115 seemed to eliminate the loss of throttle/brake pressure.
Wheel base is on the way back from repair so I'm not yet sure if it will still have 110 or if they updated it.
I think mine is going to have to go in for repair soon too as its "popping" during calibration (sound very strange) but works fine in use? So going to monitor it for a little while longer before I ship it back (ignore my 122 comment/typo)
Great to see you back FW 122 is from which package? I have been running 110 on the wheel and 115 on the pedals. 115 seemed to eliminate the loss of throttle/brake pressure.
Wheel base is on the way back from repair so I'm not yet sure if it will still have 110 or if they updated it.
I think mine is going to have to go in for repair soon too as its "popping" during calibration (sound very strange) but works fine in use? So going to monitor it for a little while longer before I ship it back (ignore my 122 comment/typo)
Turned out to be a loose bearing needing replacement. Hopefully all is good when it gets back home. Just get it in before warranty is up
@ Trevor, have you played Forza 6 since yesterday's update?? I was wondering if they had fixed that issue in that update. It looks like they have fixed a few of the issues on my list , like the telemetry returning to the last page viewed , and apparently the engine sound , at least for headsets.
@ Trevor, I know you had a lot of problems getting up and running, but if Forza is your game of choice, you may want to use V219/FW94. I have no in game issues with it.
I'll give that a go, Joe. Thanks. I will try that tomorrow. Are you talking both pedals and base?
Then I will be tearing everything down. I have sold my house and bought a new one. So am in the midst of packing. Move date is coming up soon, so need to get a move on.... so to speak.
I'll be out of commission for a while, but given my experience the last year with having to wait, I can handle it.
I'll still be in touch, though, with the phone or lap top.
@Trevor, my pedals have the same firmware I installed on day one of use ... I just downloaded V219 from the product page and re-flashed the base only. [ disconnected the pedals and removed the Hub] So far I have few in game issue... there is a menu chatter at times, but thanks to Grimey I know why .. it's a bit of feed back from the brake . If I pull the brake pedal forward a bit, or engage the Xbox controller {saves button wear, see my post from yesterday] it goes away.
Myself as well after receiving my base back yesterday !
p.s Quick question re: the sensitivities in Project Cars. There seems to be some conflicting ideas. for e.g.; you set Throttle Sensitivity to 100%, Does that in turn cause throttle to react quicker(more sensitive) or Does it give you full range of the pedal (allowing for more precise acceleration)
My perception is that it makes throttle more sensitive, not giving you precision. Setting it to 0 gives you full range no?
Comments
?? So this is not normal that I have to jam into first gear after the countdown?
@ Steve, default gear at countdown with the xbox controller is "1st" ... with Firmware 94 it is "1st" .... with the others it is "N"... so no it is not the way the game is set up.
Congrats buddy! This has been a long road for ya. Glad you're racing again.
This is ZXEVA from Taiwan. Want have a discussion with you
on wheel issue. I'm not sure if you will check your mail box in
FANATEC so I post another one message here. My English is
not good so please be bear with me, thank you.
Few days ago I found I had the same problem like you had on
my FANATEC 911 GT2 Wheel and ClubSport Pedal V3:
In "Test Drive Unlimited" and "Project Gotham Racing 4",
D-pad(joy-stick) doesn't work well.
In "Project Gotham Racing 4" it will be always "UP", in
"Test Drive " it is totally useless. After quit the game,
the shifter paddles all become "A" button function.
In "Forza Series", handbrake is always on. (I do have a
ClubSport handbrake), and D-Pad cannot go down.
My platform is Xbox360, all FM and Driver had been updated
to the latest version:
FANATEC 911 GT2: Driver version: 226(BETA)
Firmware version: 756
ClubSport Pedal V3: Driver version: 226(BETA)
Firmware version: 1.12
I'm not sure which part could cause this problem. The Wheel
or the pedal, or both? I read your post and it said there
is a new FW for V3 pedal which just only a BETA version (but
looks like it works). I want to ask did the problem on your
CSR-E wheel had been fixed after you installed the 1.15
version V3 pedal FM? Or there is a way that I can re-install
the FM for the wheel and pedal.
I also received my V2 Base two days ago, hope there will be
no problem on it, I didn't test it yet.
If someone else can give me a good advice, I would be
appreciate too.
Thank you for you reading this letter, look forward to your
response.
Sincerely.
ZXEVA
I've gone up and down on my wheel firmware and still finding that FW 122 is giving me the least issues / most stability on Windows 8.1
My pedals are still in 1.07 factory and have been working flawlessly with my CSHB/v2 etc since arrival.
This seems very stable so far, and all functions are working as expected with only the odd issue now and again (which may or may not be related)
ONLY then it's recognized by pc.
Then you'd best also update with driver V226 fw 116...that one's really good. First delete the V219 driver from your pc and install the new...update the base and go. Plaug everything in when updating, also the hub!
I think mine is going to have to go in for repair soon too as its "popping" during calibration (sound very strange) but works fine in use? So going to monitor it for a little while longer before I ship it back
@ Trevor, have you played Forza 6 since yesterday's update?? I was wondering if they had fixed that issue in that update. It looks like they have fixed a few of the issues on my list , like the telemetry returning to the last page viewed , and apparently the engine sound , at least for headsets.
http://www.forzamotorsport.net/en-us/news/fm6_november_content_update
hope that doesn't break the rules, but these games are why we buy these products.
@Trevor, my pedals have the same firmware I installed on day one of use ... I just downloaded V219 from the product page and re-flashed the base only. [ disconnected the pedals and removed the Hub] So far I have few in game issue... there is a menu chatter at times, but thanks to Grimey I know why .. it's a bit of feed back from the brake . If I pull the brake pedal forward a bit, or engage the Xbox controller {saves button wear, see my post from yesterday] it goes away.
good luck with the move and new home